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MooN

well that's fucked then

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On 05/06/2021 at 07:59, Catteeclan said:

It was just a matter of opening the loom to get to the coloured wires in the alarms I've removed. As this was factory fitted I'm not sure if that method is possible.
Sounds like it's becoming a ball ache.

the wires are all black...all of them.  According to datatool the alarm is designed to be very difficult to remove, that's the whole point of it. 

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21 hours ago, MooN said:

the wires are all black...all of them.  According to datatool the alarm is designed to be very difficult to remove, that's the whole point of it. 

Well thanks for clearing that up.

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 after searching most of the day, but only in French this time, as it seems this fuckup is specifically on the french models I have discovered this; 

169326930_Screenshot(31).png.89710804b0769bf428245e33c85a3241.png

 the rest of this document clearly shows that the french remove the multiplug, replacing it with soldered connactions. ( with coloured rings on the ends)  What i need to figure out is this:

the triumph bypass plug shorts across wires 1 and 2 , and 3 and 5, so i need to connect the white with a white/green, and then the 2 yellows.  this should have the same effect as this

Alarm_Connector.jpg.7ed7764659493d6a1ac353432121c42e.jpg.cbe06b41c29678502e7a804d3b40cead.jpg

anybody think that sounds or looks right? '

@boboneleg, @Sir Fallsalot, @Catteeclan,  @anybodywithmoreofacluethanme....       #goingnutsnotbeingabletoride

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shit I just realised the instructions also say to remove the coloured rings once the installation is complete so I may have just wasted my time here.... bastards!

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13 minutes ago, MooN said:

 after searching most of the day, but only in French this time, as it seems this fuckup is specifically on the french models I have discovered this; 

169326930_Screenshot(31).png.89710804b0769bf428245e33c85a3241.png

 the rest of this document clearly shows that the french remove the multiplug, replacing it with soldered connactions. ( with coloured rings on the ends)  What i need to figure out is this:

the triumph bypass plug shorts across wires 1 and 2 , and 3 and 5, so i need to connect the white with a white/green, and then the 2 yellows.  this should have the same effect as this

Alarm_Connector.jpg.7ed7764659493d6a1ac353432121c42e.jpg.cbe06b41c29678502e7a804d3b40cead.jpg

anybody think that sounds or looks right? '

@boboneleg, @Sir Fallsalot, @Catteeclan,  @anybodywithmoreofacluethanme....       #goingnutsnotbeingabletoride

Looking at that you need to connect 4, 3 and 5 together that's what the links are doing on the left, but because you have no plug i presume the links on the right from 4 to 2 and 1 to 3 are not there

Alarm_Connector.jpg.7ed7764659493d6a1ac353432121c42e.jpg.cbe06b41c29678502e7a804d3b40cead.jpg.270942b0c18db9c79084b18076479c59.jpg

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bloody hell @Sir Fallsalot, that actually made sense to me! 

I have just removed the rest of the tape from the wires between the alarm and the main loom, and found this bunch od soldered connections.  The overly consciantious person who fitted the alarm did remove all the coloured rings from the wires...

 

however, I did spot that there are 2 wires with a wee white flag on ( twist of white tape) and 2 with a wee yellow flag on them.  What are the chances of these being wires 1&2 and 5 &3 ( or 5&3 and 1&4 maybe?  On the french diagram 1 &2 are white and 3&5 are yellow...

IMG_1826.JPG.76a686c20d79f2ceef05d779ea18b9a5.JPG

IMG_1825.JPG.20647b5308684cfaa489b575fc2a7f74.JPG

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4 minutes ago, boboneleg said:

Hmmmmmmmmmm,  I see what Fred is saying, It looks logical to me.  Can you connect those in a tempoary fashion to see what happens ?

i would If I had any way of knowing which wires they are.... 

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Just now, XTreme said:

That looks a right potch job to me!

only cos I just took all the tape off. It was quite neat and tidy 'till I got my paws on it

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If you cut the wires one at a time and reconnect them as you go into one of these type of strip connector blocks it will allow you to get the tester on them and you should be able to start eliminating a few quite easily 

image.png.38ca37ba9f95bf0ed4ca7ce46e20a062.png

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This is what i would do not saying you should but in case you decide to go for it

After fitting the connector block check for 12v volts on each of the wires in turn then mark the ones you find as you go  (you will need the ignition switch on and kill switch off when doing this)

Next still using the voltage indicator or test lamp turn on the kill switch and  check which of the remaining wires has 12volts on it which didn't have it before when you find it turn the kill switch on and off a few times and check if the voltage goes on and off at the same time if it does that is your number 4 

Next turn on one of the indicators and with the voltage indicator or test lamp check each wire left in turn to see which one has the voltage going on and off with the indicators mark it and do the same with the other indicator

Now we are getting to the tricky bits, With a multi meter turn it to the ohms setting and touch the probes together and remember the reading, its usually  0 or 0.00, then put one probe on the battery negative and with the other probe test each of the wires left to see which give you the same reading as when you touched the probes together these will be the battery negative as in the drawing again mark them

At this stage you should have identified 6 of the wires, leaving you 4 to sort out 2 you want and 2 you don't 

Do you have some kind of light on the dash to tell you the alarm is armed as i think these will be the 2 wires you don't want

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I sure hope you give this a try, Chris, if you’re brave enough. Just be mindful to not let the magic smoke escape from the wires.

Also, a broche in Portuguese is slang for a blowjob. (Saw it in one of the electrical drawings...)

This is the extent of my advice :classic_ninja:

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2 hours ago, MooN said:

@Sir Fallsalot Brilliant!  yes there's a flashing lamp on the dash when the alarm is armed. 

Ok this is the awkward bit, looking at the drawing if the wire 10 doesn't show up as negative when you test the wires using the multi meter on Ohms i suspect it will be the negative return from the lamp on the dash so to test this i would connect a wire to one of the 12v positives and connect it to one of the 4 remaining wires, then test the other 3 in turn with the voltage indicator to see if you have a voltage on any of them that you didn't have before, you may find it will be less than 12v if its going through the lamp. repeat this test with all four wires by moving the link wire to the next one until you find the return voltage on the wire from the lamp. you may find the lamp will light up when you complete the circuit with the voltage indicator but not always. Once you found those two wires then what your left with should be wires 3 and 5 doesn't matter which is which because your going to connect No 4 and these two all together and hopefully the bike should fire up

and none of this :classic_laugh:

  Explosion Reaction GIF

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8 hours ago, Sir Fallsalot said:

Ok this is the awkward bit, looking at the drawing if the wire 10 doesn't show up as negative when you test the wires using the multi meter on Ohms i suspect it will be the negative return from the lamp on the dash so to test this i would connect a wire to one of the 12v positives and connect it to one of the 4 remaining wires, then test the other 3 in turn with the voltage indicator to see if you have a voltage on any of them that you didn't have before, you may find it will be less than 12v if its going through the lamp. repeat this test with all four wires by moving the link wire to the next one until you find the return voltage on the wire from the lamp. you may find the lamp will light up when you complete the circuit with the voltage indicator but not always. Once you found those two wires then what your left with should be wires 3 and 5 doesn't matter which is which because your going to connect No 4 and these two all together and hopefully the bike should fire up

and none of this :classic_laugh:

  Explosion Reaction GIF

I'd guess that alarm lamp's a LED.

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3 hours ago, Catteeclan said:

I'd guess that alarm lamp's a LED.

I think you're right Cat.  that means it will draw really minimum current right? 

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I have just got off the phone with Triumph Dijon. I breifly described what you guys have suggested and he said that that was basically what they were proposing they would do. 

I now have 2 choices, either I go ahead and try to do this myself, (I have a 12v test lamp and a multimeter.)   or I get them to do it which he reckons will take them a couple of hours so will cost me around 140€.

If I do it myself, i will be chuffed as a very chuffed thing if it all goes ok and works.  I do however have an uncanny knack of fucking things up ( with anything electronic)

If I get them to do it it will be a professional job and I will have some comeback if it craps out over the next year or the connections come apart or something, and " oh dear I've fucked it for good, won't be an option"  but it'll cost me 140 odd €. 

 

I'm waiting to see how soon they could do it, if I decide to get them to do the job.  

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1 minute ago, MooN said:

I have just got off the phone with Triumph Dijon. I breifly described what you guys have suggested and he said that that was basically what they were proposing they would do. 

I now have 2 choices, either I go ahead and try to do this myself, (I have a 12v test lamp and a multimeter.)   or I get them to do it which he reckons will take them a couple of hours so will cost me around 140€.

If I do it myself, i will be chuffed as a very chuffed thing if it all goes ok and works.  I do however have an uncanny knack of fucking things up ( with anything electronic)

If I get them to do it it will be a professional job and I will have some comeback if it craps out over the next year or the connections come apart or something, and " oh dear I've fucked it for good, won't be an option"  but it'll cost me 140 odd €. 

 

I'm waiting to see how soon they could do it, if I decide to get them to do the job.  

Get them to do it.....that way they're accountable!

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4 hours ago, Richzx6r said:

Or....get fred across to do it for you and you can have a right old knees up once its done ✔ 

don't for one minute I hadn't thought of the possibility of getting Fred and / or Bob over for beer and bike fixing.... not currently feasable with 14 days quarantine involved at each end.. 

If I want Triumph to do it, they can do it tuesday. I,m going to be working this sunday so tuesday would be the first opportunity I could have a couple or 4 hours clear to have a go at it if I want to try it myself. 

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1 minute ago, MooN said:

don't for one minute I hadn't thought of the possibility of getting Fred and / or Bob over for beer and bike fixing.... not currently feasable with 14 days quarantine involved at each end.. 

If I want Triumph to do it, they can do it tuesday. I,m going to be working this sunday so tuesday would be the first opportunity I could have a couple or 4 hours clear to have a go at it if I want to try it myself. 

How do you know it goes ok? Is it the bike starting or not once the alarm is out?

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10 hours ago, Catteeclan said:

I'd guess that alarm lamp's a LED.

 

7 hours ago, MooN said:

I think you're right Cat.  that means it will draw really minimum current right? 

You will still see voltage back on the return leg I've already tried it on the bench here before i suggested it

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