Pedro

Lots of abandoned houses, some of them half in use for storage of farming stuff though. All the villages still have a few people living there, mostly quite old, and it would be quite disrespectful to just start poking into houses, not to mention there's quite the risk of getting a shotgun in your face or a guard dog that turns from a sleepy friend catching sun on the street into a beast at sign of menace. It does look very green, but that's about to change with the arrival of warmth over the coming weeks. By june it'll look dry, but then again this area up north always has green stuff on mountains. It's more in the south you get the proper yellow fields. The next part of the report will look a little like Scotland or Ireland, I expect.

We almost took no pictures at all on this day. We had a not so early start as intent on not breaking my puppy's heart, we took him for a proper walk in the woods before setting off. We rode about one hour on the motorway through Porto's traffic and north to Braga, and from there got on a smaller road that would take us to our destination for the day except with a couple of detours for scenic reasons. The weather forecast had changed over the last couple of days, the warmth and sunshine of previous days to be delayed for a few days, there was a rain front coming from the Atlantic and heading East, and it was supposed to pass by this afternoon and evening. Turns out we saw the sky turn grey as we left and as we passed Braga it got darker and darker. As we left Braga a breakfast stop was made. As we bought a couple of sandwiches for take away for a lunch picnic and enjoyed breakfast, rain started to come down. Sofia has got a serious sweet tooth: As we left breakfast after 11:00, rain was slowly starting to fall, it increased in density and got colder as well. It then continued through the rest of the day, we rode through twisty roads, hills, proper nice scenery all day long without being able to see any of it. Mid afternoon it got proper cold and rain got heavy, made for a not pleasant motorcycling day, but we made it through it. We settled into the old farm house I stayed in a few days ago, and went on a walk to have dinner: On the menu was the typical beef cut of the region, which we call "Posta". It´s a leg cut so leaner and less soft than a rib or something like that, but very flavourful and full of texture, cooked over coal of course. Some wine was had, coupled with a fireplace heated restaurant and good food made for a cozy end to a pretty uncomfortable day. We decided to use the next day to ride around that area and stay at the same place again, weather being less shit would give us a chance to see some of the views we lost with the rain and fog, plus the chance to explore the Parque de Montesinho, which was new to Sofia. Morning didn't completely take rain clouds away, but made for a different mood. We set off to enjoy the area: Small typical villages are gorgeous places to see, and some of the unrestored crumbling houses convey the harshness of the environment: Rain did make an appearance though: We stopped for a coffee at Bragança's small airfield. Here starts an air bus service that crosses Portugal with three stops from this northern spot all the way down to Portimão in the Algarve. The small propeller driven aircraft probably makes for an interesting experience, I might go for a trip one of these days just for fun. We made it back to the hotel early in the afternoon, with plenty of time for a shower and then a nice walk around the fields before another rest before the walk up to the restaurant for dinner. I love the old wooden floors on some parts of the house: Bikes parked safe from the weather, too: I was feeling tired, a very light and disappointing lunch plus maybe some hay allergies. We made it to the restaurant early with plenty of daylight to spare, had a little red wine outside and snacked on a little bit of cheese. All energies returned as the sun started to go down. Food was superb. I have no proper pictures of it though, as I was too delighted that my special request made on the previous night was tended to. The nice lady running the restaurant made me very happy with a special vegetable rice to go along with the local grilled meat, the whole dinner was a show of great northern hospitality, and left me with a great desire to return and happy to end the day like that. Sofia, the sweet tooth: The next day will see us crossing amazing northern landscapes as we start to head back south, the best views of the trip. Will try and post that tomorrow.

I would like 24º, nice and cool for motorcycle riding

After my previous solo ride to Tras os Montes, Sofia had a few days to get away from being a vet and felt like going and checking the place out too, so that's what we did. Tras os Montes is sadly ignored by most tourists and even most portuguese tourists don't know the place. On one side this is bad, on the other it's very cool because it's a land of harsh climates, harsh landscape (that I've been told sometimes looks like Scotland), and authentic people and places, a lot of this is usually lost with bigger volume tourism. The aim was to go north, spend a couple of days at my parent's to keep my dog company, and then head north and inland in search of amazing old landscapes and good rustic meals. Tras os Montes reminds me of a time of kings, with it's abundant sweet chestnut trees, old castles, and stone walls that endure time. First, starting from the south / center of Portugal: I set of from my home near Lisbon on a monday morning, the sun was out and the day was to be sunny and plenty warm. I was early getting out, had already cleaned my place the day before so after taking out the trash the blinds were shut and the place left until my next stay. When I see that house closed I better leave quick or my emotional side takes over and I end up staying a few days more. I take only small roads, after a while I stop by a dam for breakfast at a cafe and a few work calls to get a few issues done for the day: Quickly made a friend, that abandoned her owner and came to check out my last bit of toast: Arrived at Constancia, quaint small town by the Tejo river with the claim of fame that very important historic poet Luis de Camões once lived here for a while. I stopped, had an espresso, and proceeded to wait for @Sofia, at the time setting off from Ericeira via motorways to catch up, she made it in illegally quick fashion but still gave me an hour to sit around watching country town life unfold. Posto de Turismo is where you get information about museums, tour guides, etc, and it's set up in the old jail house. Cool stuff, I did go up there to see the inside but it was closed. The sky was amazingly blue, and the warmth was arriving, it was supposed to be 30º that day. A contrast to the following days. At almost midday, Sofia arrived after her motorway blast, ready to take off a layer or two of warm clothing, and head into smaller slower roads heading up through the center of Portugal. We managed to eat a cheese and ham toast for lunch, which was a pleasant surprise, and continued north through dense forrests, here starting to look back from the first noticeable hills Not many pictures were taken, here's another friend that popped up while stopped for refreshments: Pampilhosa da Serra, roads around here are just underrated, this is hill and forrest country and the roads just seem to be well maintained, and fun enough to enjoy in all sorts of bikes. We stopped at a lookout over the town for a breath, and for me to think of the following roads. We had already settled on a historic hotel for the night so the general destination was set, just not the specific road to get there. I struck a pose: Brief stop at Gois, where I frequently get lost and exit on the wrong direction. Gois hosts Portugal's second biggest bike rally, after Faro. This is more of a portuguese thing, deep in the center of the country and away from touristy Algarve beaches. As we approach our hotel, which is deep in a forrest nature park, I stop for a bucolic pee and to enjoy the coolness the dense forest provides after a warm day on the bike. We park the bikes for the night, and quickly have a shower in time for a stroll around the property. Hour hotel is Palacio do Bussaco, a proper palace built for a real king. Rooms are run down and severely overvalued, but the building itself is amazingly characterful and the gardens and special forest around it are breathtaking. I never heard so many bees around, flowers are in bloom but we were later on having a glass of wine outside and you could hear the millions of bees in the background, like if a distant natural white noise. Sofia knows all about the story of the place, I am a little bit more of a simpleton and just enjoy the trees and birds and some (overpriced) wine. After a lovely dinner, we enjoy a walk around the gardens (like you do), before turning in. Tomorrow I have mountains and twisty roads planned! Before checking out, we walk a little around the forrest / garden surrounding the hotel, I learn that we have a special kind of cedar that only exists in this place. Cool stuff! ced Adequate parking location for the GS, although to be fair if I had my choice I would have left it under cover. I think the artisans that sculpted those pillars wouldn't have minded. From Bussaco and Luso, we set of to Serra do Caramulo for a coffee, some amazingly twisty roads up the hill have Sofia in a good mood after a little more than an hour to get there. Again, we set off, down the other side of Serra do Caramulo, and up Serra da Arada, we ride up a road I used to be very familiar with back when I used to race up here on the Transalp almost every weekend. The road twists up the hill with gravel and dirt thrown in on some bends, luckily for the Speed Triple it was better kept now but still a little out of spec for the sports bike like chassis of that bike. I forgot how harsh that road was, but it does make up for it with amazing views once you make it up there. BOTM: We ride through a few Serras, heading north, and I really put the Speed Triple and Sofia through some harsh roads, temperatures also reach 29º which doesn't bother me much but we were going slowly and it taxes you. A brief stop with a view After a longish day we reach the Douro river, which is just 40 minutes away from my parents' place. We take a breath of fresh riverside air. My dad was called in for a surprise visit to the doctor in Lisbon, so we made a two day stop in Espinho to hang out with Costa while they went away. It was a cool time, Costa went on nice walks, plus visited the local Honda and Ducati dealerships. I fired up the coals and made dinner. Roasted chorizo for starters, and beef chop. Time to get Sofia used to northern cooking. Next, we head north to Tras os Montes, in search of epic landscapes. Will continue later today.

108 miles is proper distance. Surely a few nice rolling trails to do that?

Maybe, or it might be a marketing thing to make you make up your mind if you think they're not obtainable.

I meant 4 months delay on top of the the original delivery time of 4 or 5 months.

I wouldn't be in a rush, my mate bought a new CB500S a few months ago and delivery time after ordering it was postponed 3 or 4 times to a total of more than 4 months.

I'm on my second C3Pro, which was still lighter and quieter than the C4 and C4Pro when I got it. They are ok and I obviously bought a second one so I like them. I would go straight for the C5 instead of the C4 range, though, they seem so much better built. My next helmet is probably going to be a Shoei, though, and probably this year. Something to do with the sizing as I think I am an L in Shoei but an XL in Schubert, and my Schubert gets a little too big once getting a little older.

In Portugal the Transalp 750 is going to be showing up at dealers only on the end of Abril / first days of May.

To celebrate, me and Sofia are going for a ride. waiting for her to meet me in Constancia right now

You making fun of yourself takes away all the joy

I hope you mean a mars bar

What exactly are you so afraid that the police might do against you? You didn’t exactly have a chance against an impact from the rear, and they won’t accuse a panicking foreigner of retrieving their belongings from the road. Also, women get away with everything

Snow crabs? Is that right? snow?

Went to have a coffee with a mate in the morning, lasted until midday. Saw a family arriving on motorcycles, parents on a R1200RT and a young guy on a Yamaha 125cc, that was very cool to see. Plenty of dad and daughters out of little sunday morning rides. I liked that. Then home for lunch as it was starting to get properly warm. Now gathering the strength to get up the sofa and clean the house, make the bed again with newly washed linens, and leave it all nice for when I leave in the morning.

They said fanny packs were gone, I said no way!

I see Paris Hilton still hasn’t got her shades back. Have fun!

Now I remember too, closest I was to dying was probably on a hotel room in Palma de Maiorca jumping from on balcony to the other. It was a short distance but I sort of slipped. Wasn’t using my best judgement there, and never felt like doing that ever since. was about 14 or 15

Possibly the scariest thing ever in my life just happened. As I was stuffing some cardboard into the recycling bin the neighbours cat screamed and flew from the inside right through the narrow slit and flew right past my face. I almost just died from the fright, gave a proper scream too.

Reminded myself, I once rode a small plastic sled onto the middle of a frozen lake in Serra da Estrela, once it stopped and I got up the i e broke and I fell in. Couldn’t get out as all ice kept breaking as I tried to get out. Before I went under from the weight of soaked clothing someone slid to near me and threw me a rope. Must have been about 8 or 10. Remember changing clothes and feeling ultra warm on jeans and a tshirt for hours after

Not my intention, though, I did get how stressed of panicked you were from your account of it and do understand you were very scared. Sorry if it translated into unkind. I'm happy you didn't get run over. My written english seems to convey coldness and my humor is frequently missed.

Second season is the best one, out of all.

I will try to buy either from keihin or Honda. Most fuel I buy still is E5, though.