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1998 Triumph Sprint Project.


Saul

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14 minutes ago, Buckster said:

Did you put a 7.5 amp fuse in the junction box?

The box has 4 x 5am fused circuits.    

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14 minutes ago, Saul said:

The box has 4 x 5am fused circuits.    

I know but users usually upgrade the fuse for heated grips to 7.5 amps as the 5 amp is prone to blowing.

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3 minutes ago, Buckster said:

I know but users usually upgrade the fuse for heated grips to 7.5 amps as the 5 amp is prone to blowing.

Haven’t encountered that yet, the commuter grips draw 3.2 amp max so less than the 4amp ones I had on the CBF before which is set up exactly the same way.  Mind you I practically never ran the grips on max,  normally setting one or two out of five.      Wouldn’t hurt to pop a 7.5 amp fuse in I suppose especially as the box won’t be that easy to access where it is.  Can be accessed from below but a fiddly bastard of a job on the roadside.  

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19 minutes ago, Saul said:

Haven’t encountered that yet, the commuter grips draw 3.2 amp max so less than the 4amp ones I had on the CBF before which is set up exactly the same way.  Mind you I practically never ran the grips on max,  normally setting one or two out of five.      Wouldn’t hurt to pop a 7.5 amp fuse in I suppose especially as the box won’t be that easy to access where it is.  Can be accessed from below but a fiddly bastard of a job on the roadside.  

The grips will have an inline 5 amp won’t they?

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27 minutes ago, Saul said:

Yes 

I would fit a 7.5 amp to that outlet to make up for the additional load from the cable.

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All back together on the front, tank cleaned out.   Also petrol tap cleaned and resealed. 
Just want to fit my vacuum vSystem Scott Oiler and I can put the bodywork back on and I am on the road.    Prolly first dry day next week.   Just need to go and get a few litres of E5 to get it to the garage.   Also think I am going to order a new battery I don’t trust the one on there and I am not willing to gamble.   
The one thing I think won’t work is the fuel light.    I can’t get any reading at all from the sender.  The wiring on the bike is fine as I can light the fuel bulb with a jumper wire.  I don’t care that much TBH as the fuel tap has a reserve so I shouldn’t get stranded.  (Famous last words).   🤨

Also a question for you clever types, the replacement rear brake light switch has shat the bed and stuck on.    It worked fine when I fitted it a few weeks ago but isn’t now.    I’m tempted to leave as is for a minute and ride it to see if it frees up and starts working.    It wasn’t a cheap switch.   
 

Oh and I did fit a 7.5 amp fuse on the heated grips. 

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24 minutes ago, Saul said:

The replacement rear brake light switch has shat the bed and stuck on.    It worked fine when I fitted it a few weeks ago but isn’t now.    I’m tempted to leave as is for a minute and ride it to see if it frees up and starts working.    It wasn’t a cheap switch.

Definitely better to have it stuck ON than off...I'd do the same. Winter temps can sometimes play havoc on switches. I've got a dodgy brake light switch on my Chevy pickup...got into the habit of pulling the brake pedal up w/ my toe before I leave a signal or park it...

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21 minutes ago, YamaHead said:

Definitely better to have it stuck ON than off...I'd do the same. Winter temps can sometimes play havoc on switches. I've got a dodgy brake light switch on my Chevy pickup...got into the habit of pulling the brake pedal up w/ my toe before I leave a signal or park it...

It's a hydraulic switch so I have just unplugged for now, the brake light still works on the front lever so should be safe enough to ride it like that 

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Just ordered a Yuasa for the Sprint from Tanya Batteries, the battery on the bike is a Numax that Tanya are selling for £37 , the Yuasa was double that but Worth it IMHO.  

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