Buckster Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 What do say @Clive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 I should be fine, I haven't separated the carb bodies so it's just the floats, jets and a few sundary bits, reasonably easy, one done already just stopped for a cuppa. Although I know i am tempting fate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YamaHead Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 Myself, I enjoy doing that kind of work...especially if you've got an array of new parts for replacement. Inline 4's or parallel twins/triples are much more pleasant to deal with vs. wrestling w/ V4 carbs, which can sometimes be a real bitch. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 All done, carbs clean. All new jets and O rings. Emulsion tubes cleaned and checked, diaphragms all good. Carbs still retain original sync as I didn’t separate the bodies. Although I will balance them when they are on the bike. I will check the float valves are sealing before refitting the carbs but apart from the that ready to go. I want to drain the tank and get fresh fuel before doing more. Other more pressing jobs next on the list. Repairing my bike shed being top of it. Left over bits 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 1 hour ago, YamaHead said: Myself, I enjoy doing that kind of work...especially if you've got an array of new parts for replacement. Inline 4's or parallel twins/triples are much more pleasant to deal with vs. wrestling w/ V4 carbs, which can sometimes be a real bitch. Oh forget that, the thought of working on V4's disturbs me I would love an old Honda 750 VFR but I just don't fancy spannering on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boboneleg Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 You can replace those screws holding the float bowls with Allen heads, much easier to undo if you have to get in there again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 8 minutes ago, boboneleg said: You can replace those screws holding the float bowls with Allen heads, much easier to undo if you have to get in there again. Good plan I have some nice stainless ones I could use as well. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted Friday at 19:44 Author Share Posted Friday at 19:44 Started refitting the carbs today, they passed the leak test before going on the bike. Got halfway through fitting them and got called away. Hopefully get chance to do more tomorrow. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted Saturday at 11:00 Author Share Posted Saturday at 11:00 Well that was an hour of high tension but the carbs are back in. Won’t lie it’s not a pleasant job but doable with a bit of patience and a hair dryer to warm up the rubbers. The bike started first time on choke, came off choke reasonable quickly and once warm was able to set the tick-over to where it should be around 1050 ish. Supposed to be 950 to 1050 so no complaints. Still have to check the carb balance but to be honest it’s doesn’t seem far off IMHO. The point for me is that the bike ticks over well off choke now which it didn’t before. So for now I will take that . Still be a bit of fine tuning to come but I am a happy bunny. Still have to clean the tank out before the bike is rideable but my garden is currently like the Somme so getting the Sprint in and out isn’t easy on my own so no rush for that. Much else to do. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boboneleg Posted Saturday at 12:20 Share Posted Saturday at 12:20 I think you're better off with a slightly higher tickover on a carbed bike in winter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted Saturday at 12:24 Author Share Posted Saturday at 12:24 Just now, boboneleg said: I think you're better off with a slightly higher tickover on a carbed bike in winter Yeah I agree, especially with T300's and their delicate spragg clutch. From what I have read well set up clean carbs and strong battery are a great way of protecting it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago Spent a few more hours on the Sprint this morning. When I got the bike the oil light worked but after a few starts it went out but sort of glowed when the motor was running. I didn’t worry to much it didn’t run badly at all, I thought electrical gremlin more than low oil pressure. A gamble I know but that was the choice. Anyway when I changed the clocks I put new bulbs in the idiot lights as there were some cheap LEDs in the old clocks. The oil light never worked again. I checked the oil light bulb again and it was fine. Oil pressure switch is a known weak point I was advised by the Triumph cognoscenti. So replaced that and no joy it made no difference. I got the manual out and studied the wiring diagram. Traced the wiring runs from joint to joint. All good until I checked the last one between the pressure switch to the first connector behind the battery box. So simple enough to fix, ran a new wire and replaced the connector. Covered everything in dielectric grease reassembled everything and the job was done. All technically simple enough but it took bloody ages tracking the different connections on the loom and making sense of the wiring diagram next to the bike. I got there in the end but what made it more of a ball ache was that some of the wiring colours were different to the illustration in the Triumph workshop manual. Yes I checked I was using the right diagram with the bikes Vin. Must have just been a random week that mine was built in Hinckley Works perfectly now though. Next job is to sort the low fuel light. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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