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I will see what mine is next month.

I'm not to worried about that really, car wheel paint has always lasted well for me on several projects over the years. Also I keyed the surface well and made sure it was spotless so I have given it every chance to have a lasting finish. But you never know. Like I said you can always do a better job. Best IMHO would be media blasted lowers sprayed with top quality two pack paint from the gun, done in a booth. Probably overkill for an 18 year old CBF600 and I wince at the thought of the cost. . Horses for courses.

I now have everything I need to do the swing arm, I am going to have a ring round on Monday and see how quickly I can get it turned around if I want it powder coated.

They look good, it will be interesting to see how they last.

Nice pool--

So you can write text!

Got home yesterday from a 3400+ mile road trip....gonna be in the 80'sF today & into the 90'sF by Monday....glad we beat the heat...& you can have states like MN & ND!

Just painted my fork lowers ready to reassemble the bike. After rebuilding the forks I washed them in soapy water. Then sanded them all over with 240 grit sandpaper, would have gone finer but I used what I had. Then degreased them with brake cleaner on a rag. Panel wipe or thinners would have been better but again used what I had. Masked the Showa label, fork seals and stantions. I gave them 2 coats of high build primer leaving the paint 15 mins to flash off between coats. They came up quite well at this stage with no faults to my eyes so I didn’t bother giving them another light sand. I went for lunch then came back and gave the lowers two coats of car wheel silver. Giving 30 mins between coats. I am quite pleased with how well they came up considering how rough they were. I am going to give them 24hrs to cure before attempting to refit them to the bike. I chose the wheel steel paint as I have used it loads in the past and is pretty tough once cured perfect for fork sliders. Of course you can always do better but for my 18 year old CBF they are plenty good enough. The important thing is to clean and prepare the surface you are going to paint well as that will ultimately determine the finish you get. Also lighter coats are better to prevent runs in the paint. Good clean prep and care will give tidy results. Now you do what you want but I was asked to show what I did.

I emailed them and offered to send it back if they send me a post paid label.

The new dust covers want to ride up the stanchions rather than clip into the fork legs. Any tips.

I was at my bank yesterday waiting in line. There was just one lady in front of me, an Asian lady, who was trying to exchange yen for pounds. It was obvious she was a little irritated. She asked the teller, "Why it change? Yesterday, I get two hunat poun of yen. Today I only get hunat eighty? Why it change?" The teller shrugged his shoulders and said, "Fluctuations." The Asian lady says, "Fluc you white people too!"

All done, first time I have ever done fork seals. Fiddly mucky job but straightforward enough. Had to go and get my mate to undo the dampener bolts on the bottom of the forks. I will buy the long Allen sockets I need for the next time.

We are on our second week of rain.

The quality on KOYO seems to be slipping.

Been sat here since 8 and done bugga all. Getting bored now although it's still raining. Shopping's looking a good idea ATM. MotoGP this weekend not not all is lost. And where's Clive n Fred?

Bonus, spare for next time. SKF have always had a good name but Koyo have always been good bearings too.

I just realised they sent five wheel bearings instead of four.

Yeah I do know that and it's why I am fretting, but a valve check in a garage is nearly as expensive as a second hand motor, not moaning I understand why. Although that would be a shame to wreak the motor given the one in the bike seems pretty healthy. I think what I will have to do is learn how to do it myself, at least it would put my mind at rest. I have watched a few videos of how to's and it's pretty complicated, to me, but I'm sure I could learn if I have to. I have done loads of valve clearances with tappets over the years. Just have take it slow and methodically doing it one step at a time. Stills fills me with apprehension but needs must I suppose.

Try Londonistan

If you don't rag it around then the gaps should be ok. The danger is they tighten and can then burn of the edges of the valves and seats.

Just got the renewal notice from Bennetts for my CBF600, fecking £198 TPFT with a £500 compulsory excess for a bike worth about £1000. Shopped around and got the same cover and excess from One Click, Allianz Underwritten, for £97.17. Bit more palatable. No add ons as I have got cover for that elsewhere.

Not so tired this morning and a bit more confident to have a crack of stripping the forks down and doing the seals myself after a couple of helpful videos on Youtube. Still know a man that can if things go tits up.