CBF600 service and fork seals.

[Saul]

Sad CBF600

 

[Catteeclan]

3 hours ago, Saul said:

Just been out and serviced the CBF.  Oil and filter, air filter and plugs.  What was in there wasn’t too bad so it has been serviced in the last couple of years.    I did an oil and filter change last year. Twas nice to be able the get the filter off with resorting to brutality
Plugs were a fiddly pain the arse to do, can’t ever remember doing them on an inline 4.   I had a blade years ago but I paid to have that serviced.    Just the brakes to strip, clean and change fluid now.   Gonna do that after the fork seals. I may do that later or in the morning.   Just out of interest how many miles between plug changes do people do, don’t want to do it again in a hurry if I don’t have to  

Mandis last 1000 was 4500 intervals with the plugs changed every other time if I remember right. I've changed them on the newer one she now has only to find once the job was done I took out Iridium tipped. I'll put them back in next time, always read the service book first.

 

Scrap that, 4000mile intervals and plugs changed at 16000 miles.

[Saul]

18 minutes ago, Catteeclan said:

Mandis last 1000 was 4500 intervals with the plugs changed every other time if I remember right. I've changed them on the newer one she now has only to find once the job was done I took out Iridium tipped. I'll put them back in next time, always read the service book first.

 

Scrap that, 4000mile intervals and plugs changed at 16000 miles.

I like the sound of that.  I was thinking about doing them every other year but I did 5k last year so that would make it roughly every three years for plugs. I'm gonna change all the fluids this year so as to set a datem as a starting point.     When I bought the bike the previous owner said he had a full service done the year before for the MoT and that would match with what I found today after 5000 miles in my ownership and him only doing 100 miles between MoT's.      The only thing that troubles me a little is that I have no record of valve clearances being done and the bike is at 36000 miles.   Doesn't necessarily mean they haven't been done just I have no record of it. They are supposed to be done every 16000 I believe.  I chatted to the mechanic I use about it and he said not to sweat it.  As long as the bike starts fine you shouldn't worry.  It starts perfectly and the motor is pretty quiet compared to other Honda 600's I have heard this year.   But I do worry as that is my way 

[Buckster]

I just keep cleaning and gapping plugs until they show signs of physical breakdown.

[Saul]

40 minutes ago, Buckster said:

I just keep cleaning and gapping plugs until they show signs of physical breakdown.

The plugs that came out did not show any sign of wear.  I will clean them up set the gaps and keep them.   

[Saul]

Not so tired this morning and a bit more confident to have a crack of stripping the forks down and doing the seals myself after a couple of helpful videos on Youtube.    Still know a man that can if things go tits up. 

 

 

[Catteeclan]

15 hours ago, Saul said:

I like the sound of that.  I was thinking about doing them every other year but I did 5k last year so that would make it roughly every three years for plugs. I'm gonna change all the fluids this year so as to set a datem as a starting point.     When I bought the bike the previous owner said he had a full service done the year before for the MoT and that would match with what I found today after 5000 miles in my ownership and him only doing 100 miles between MoT's.      The only thing that troubles me a little is that I have no record of valve clearances being done and the bike is at 36000 miles.   Doesn't necessarily mean they haven't been done just I have no record of it. They are supposed to be done every 16000 I believe.  I chatted to the mechanic I use about it and he said not to sweat it.  As long as the bike starts fine you shouldn't worry.  It starts perfectly and the motor is pretty quiet compared to other Honda 600's I have heard this year.   But I do worry as that is my way 

If you don't rag it around then the gaps should be ok. The danger is they tighten and can then burn of the edges of the valves and seats.

[Saul]

1 hour ago, Catteeclan said:

If you don't rag it around then the gaps should be ok. The danger is they tighten and can then burn of the edges of the valves and seats.

Yeah I do know that and it's why I am fretting,  but a valve check in a garage is nearly as expensive as a second hand motor, not moaning I understand why.    Although that would be a shame to wreak the motor given the one in the bike seems pretty healthy.   I think what I will have to do is learn how to do it myself, at least it would put my mind at rest.  I have watched a few videos of how to's and it's pretty complicated, to me, but I'm sure I could learn if I have to.  I have done loads of valve clearances with tappets over the years. Just have take it slow and methodically doing it one step at a time.    Stills fills me with apprehension but needs must I suppose.  

[Saul]

All done, first time I have ever done fork seals.    Fiddly mucky job but straightforward enough.   Had to go and get my mate to undo the dampener bolts on the bottom of the forks.    I will buy the long Allen sockets I need for the next time.      

[Saul]

The new dust covers want to ride up the stanchions rather than clip into the fork legs.  Any tips.  

[Saul]

Just pained my fork lowers ready to reassemble the bike.   
 

After rebuilding the forks I washed them in soapy water.  Then sanded them all over with 240 grit sandpaper, would have gone finer but I used what I had.    Then degreased them with brake cleaner on a rag.   Panel wipe or thinners would have been better but again used  what I had.    Masked the Showa label, fork seals and stations.  

I gave them 2 coats of high build primer leaving the paint 15 mins to flash off between coats.  They came up quite well at this stage with no faults  to my eyes so I didn’t bother giving them another light sand.   
 

I went for lunch then came back and gave the lowers two coats of car wheel silver.  Giving 30 mins between coats.    I am quite pleased with how well they came up considering how rough they were.   

I am going to give them 24hrs to cure before attempting to refit them to the bike.   I chose the wheel steel paint as I have used it loads in the past and is pretty tough once cured perfect for fork sliders.   Of course you can always do better but for my 18 year old CBF they are plenty good enough.   The important thing is to clean and prepare the surface you are going to paint well as that will ultimately determine the finish you get.   Also lighter coats are better to prevent runs in the paint.  Good clean prep and care will give tidy results.     Now you do what you want but I was asked to show what I did.