Peon Maface

We all know Yamaha as one of the world’s leading motorcycle manufacturers, but what’s often forgotten is the Tuning Fork company’s work in the automotive sector. Yamaha has a long history of producing engines and other components for automakers such as Toyota and Ford. In 1984, Yamaha developed and supplied the 60° DOHC V6 SHO (Super High Outout) engine for the Ford Taurus, and in 2010, Yamaha co-developed the V10 engine of the Lexus LFA. Years earlier, Yamaha helped Toyota develop the 2000GT sports car in 1967, which was the closest we came to seeing a Yamaha car. The Yamaha Sports Ride Concept at the 2015 Tokyo Motor Show. We came close in the last decade, however, as Yamaha began showcasing a number of car concepts developed with Gordon Murray Design, a firm founded and named after the former McLaren and Formula 1 race car designer. First came the Motiv, a two-seater compact car that resembled a Smart car that was showcased at the biennial Tokyo Motor Show in 2013. Two years, later, Yamaha showed a sportier-looking car called the Sports Ride Concept, pictured above. Both concepts were built around Gordon Murray Design’s iStream chassis, a lightweight modular aluminum frame with composite panels. The Sports Ride Concept was said to weigh in the neighborhood of 1,650 pounds, svelte for a car. At the time, Yamaha said it was making “steady development progress toward models for production and commercialization,” with the Motiv undergoing on-road testing. And that was pretty much the last we heard about progress. At the 2017 Tokyo Show, Yamaha revealed a pick-up truck called the Cross Hub Concept, but it did not use the Gordon Murray iStream chassis and appeared to be a completely unrelated project. This past fall, at the 2019 Tokyo Motor Show, Yamaha finally admitted that the automotive project was dead, telling AutoCar it had suspended all car projects indefinitely. “Cars do not feature in our long-term plans any more,” Yamaha spokesperson Naoto Horie told Autocar. “That is a decision taken by President (Yoshihiro) Hidaka for the foreseeable future, as we could not see a way to develop either car to make it stand out from the competition, which is very strong. “The sports car in particular had great appeal for us as enthusiasts, but the marketplace is particularly difficult. We now see other opportunities.” The project may be dead, but thanks to a newly published design registered with the European Union Intellectual Property Office, we have an idea of what Yamaha’s sports car could have looked like. The designs were filed in April 2018 and registered a month later, but the information was sealed until last week. The designs show a compact two-door design with curvy front fenders, air scoops ahead of the rear wheels and a rear spoiler. Gordon Murray and several members of his firm were listed as the designers, suggesting the car used the iStream chassis. Also credited as a designer is Masato Suzuki, from Yamaha’s R&D division. The design looks closer to production than the Sports Ride Concept, having door handles and a windshield wiper, features the earlier concept lacked. Unlike the Sports Ride Concept, which had a pair of exhausts below the rear spoiler, the new design does not show any sign of an exhaust system, suggesting, perhaps, an electric powertrain. There’s also no visible location for either a fueling or charging port for that matter, suggesting the design is still at a conceptual stage. The timing of the design filing was close to when Yamaha filed similar design registrations for the Cross Hub Concept with the EUIPO, suggesting Yamaha may have intended to show it at the 2017 Tokyo Motor Show. Alas, we may never know what Yamaha had originally planned for this new design if Yamaha has indeed shuttered its plans to produce cars. The post Yamaha’s Abandoned Car Design appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Remember Robert Perkins and his hopped-up 1990 Honda NS144F? Well, due to popular demand, he’s back with the creation story of his Frankenbike. Picture a rosebush ablaze with pink and teal blooms. If you dared to do so, you just captured half the absurdity of how this double-engine fifty sprung to life. Back when I first beheld this diminutive motorcycle in 2013, it appeared to have been dragged through a rose sticker garden headlight first. I should have seen the thorns then… Of course, it all started out innocently enough with a 2,000-mile round trip from Alabama to West Virginia. Having recently sold one of eight motorcycles, I swore to the immortal gods that never again would I own more bikes than our week has days. Just maybe, peer pressure from the non-motorcycling public had taken its toll. When co-workers would question the sanity of polygamous motorcycle ownership, I learned to simply drop my eyes, unwilling to explain. Yes, I have been one acquainted with the bike. Peer pressure or not, I was doing well maintaining my pledge until the stars aligned against me. Riding out that unusually cool August morning from my home in Alabama, I could not see the invisible game pieces of fate being ushered into motion. Regardless of the omens, my trip up to Blowing Rock, North Carolina was the paradigm of a beautiful late summer tour. By some temporary reversal in global warming, the weather had shifted from a heat wave to an unusual cool spell. Not all was perfect, though. The gods were watching, and as a mortal capable of mistakes, I perceived early in the trip that my routing was a bit off. Too romantic to employ a GPS, I had been relying on my trusty maps of the papyrus variety and my inability to add and subtract. And yet somehow those extra fifty miles kept creeping in at the end of each day’s ride . . . It was not until the return trip home, though, that I fell inextricably into the hands of fate. Due to my precision navigation techniques outlined above, I ended up riding from the New River Gorge Bridge in West Virginia to Asheville, North Carolina, after a full day of tedious backroads. I pulled into a hotel around midnight only to discover that the one bed remaining was in a smoking room. How bad could it be, I mused? In truth, I would have been better off sleeping under the table of a high stakes poker game sponsored by a cigar company. By the time I made Dahlonega, Georgia, the following day, I was already feeling the effects of multiple 500-mile days and a bad night’s sleep. In this weakened state, I was fortune’s fool. And so I began to hear mythical Sirens luring me to a motorcycle dealership that appeared like a mirage on Georgia’s snaking Highway 60. I should have strapped my hands to the handlebars of my Honda 919 and kept on motoring. Instead, I hung an immediate right, dismounted, and moseyed on in to check out the rarer brands for sale: MV Agusta, Moto Guzzi, Aprilia, and Motus. After avoiding the unobtainable hardware and sitting on a Moto Guzzi V7, frugality directed me even further to some older Hondas taken as trade-ins. As I wheeled around to face what would ultimately be my fate, I beheld a bone stock Honda NS50F, complete with its OEM decals of teal and hot pink applied to a rather pedestrian white. Just in case you are not old enough to know, those colors were pretty dope back when I walked the halls of Jurassic High. And if those decals were not sick enough in 2013, let us not forget this particular motorbike had been blinged out with rose stickers. Of course, most sane individuals would have taken a quaint interest in this little fifty and politely walked on. Two minutes later, I found myself riding the flowered fifty around the parking lot. I do concede the gods had their way with yet another puny mortal. Shortly after returning home from my tour, I found myself taking another nine-hour round trip to pick up the bike. I still remember the salesman handing me the key and inauspiciously asking if I had ever heard of the True Grits 50cc Fun Run . . . Having broken my sacred oath by once again possessing more than seven motorcycles, I knew I better fly straight. I reasoned it was now very pertinent to stay true to my first commandment of motorcycle ownership: “Thou shalt not own any bike thou canst not commute on.” Sounds easy, right? Well, a 50cc really pushes one’s faith when commuting in a mountainous town of the Appalachian variety. Luckily, the mighty NS is equipped with a six-speed gearbox and a razor thin power band, so you are basically given a 5-mph window in each gear to maintain forward momentum. On the bright side, it does turn my 10-mile commute into a heart-pounding track day just keeping up with the flow of traffic. I do confess though to slightly altering my route home to tame a monster incline up a local mountain. In Florida the NS50F would probably be perfect. Following my first trip to the fabled True Grits Fun Run and considering my commandment to commute on all my bikes, I rationalized a modified 50cc was primarily a safety consideration. My first alteration was to remove those flower stickers. Yes, I probably lost some street cred with this move, but I figured, flowers or not, with a top speed of 58 mph, high stakes street racing was not in the NS’s future. Thus, I was on my way to becoming a disciple of the small bore. Having modified several motorcycles in the past, I always wanted to lean full in by modifying a bike past any reasonable usefulness. I figured the NS was as good a bike as any with its cheap buy-in, limited utility, and relatively inexpensive performance parts. Famous last words . . . As described in my earlier article, I ordered performance parts from Japan and a cafe seat from a local supplier. The front fender was replaced with a Honda MB5 fender and subsequently bobbed. A local painter provided some much needed updating to the 1990s color scheme. To gain more top-end speed, I changed the final-drive gearing and swapped the ignition module for a performance item that eliminated the rev limiter. With a 72cc kit and its matching head, flatslide carburetor, and performance exhaust, I could pull nearly 14,000 rpm downhill and see a true 72 mph. Of course, I had to add a tachometer and change out the stock speedometer, which signed off at 70 mph, to see these humbling numbers. In this form I took the NS72F to the first Smoky Mountain Crawl and rode out to Deals Gap. I believe the 125 miles I rode that day remain the longest I have ever spent in any motorcycle saddle. Trust me; you will not mistake an NS for a tourer. After running with some “big-displacement” motorcycles like the Honda Groms I encountered at the Crawl and my third True Grits that year, I knew the writing was on the wall. Despite managing my commute better, the NS72F needed more power. It was time to near triple the stock displacement by adding a second 72cc engine! Before this sordid tale continues, please understand I have always enjoyed tinkering in the garage as much as riding, so the pursuit of such mechanical absurdity was more a mental puzzle than a quest for any real or practical gains. (I felt that disclaimer necessary before you read further and considered calling the appropriate psychiatric services on me.) To attach the second NS motor, I first had to solve the problem of a vertically split crankcase. Allen Millyard, a man I greatly admire, was able to create his four-and five-cylinder Kawasaki two-strokes because they employ a horizontally split crankcase that allowed him to build up the crankshafts and combine the necessary crankcase pieces. If the NS was a four-stroke engine, I could have created a V- twin engine by mating the two connecting rods. Unfortunately, a liquid-cooled, vertically split two-stroke made the task of combining engines a bit more complicated because it was necessary to retain each engine’s crankcase as a sealed unit for the requisite induction process. Therefore, I chose to link the two engines via an external crankshaft coupler. Of course, the real work involved in this process would be learning to use a lathe and mill, something I had zero experience in. Fortunately, Joe, a good friend from our local classic motorcycle scene, stepped up as a mentor and taught me basic machining on his century old Hendey lathe and slightly newer Bridgeport mill. I am forever indebted for his kindness and patience in this arduous process. Most of the genius behind the design is Joe’s, with me acting as Dr. Watson to his Sherlock Holmes. To combine these two separate engines, I machined a ring to attach to the flywheel side of the first engine’s crankcase using the bolt pattern that held its crankcase together. Then, I bolted a second ring to the first ring as a spacer, machined down the second engine’s crankcase so the spacer could sit flat against the primary drive side of the second engine, and used the bolt pattern for this second engine’s crankcase to secure it to the spacer ring. This ring spacer, along with some external engine mounting points, accomplished the task of linking the two engine crankcases. To make the crankshaft coupler, I first shortened the mating side of each engine’s crankshaft to keep the motors as close as possible to one another. I also machined a keyway in each crankshaft to accurately time them, and I threaded the center of each crankshaft to allow a bolt to keep each half of the coupler secured. Both halves of the coupler were also machined with a keyway. Each coupler half was then pressed onto its respective crankshaft while carefully aligning the keyways, and secured with a bolt. This process is similar to the primary gear’s installation on the drive side of the engine. One coupler half also employs a dowel pin for correct timing, and the coupler halves are bolted together using nuts that can be accessed through a small hole machined in the underside of one engine case. Following the assembly of the coupled engines, the flywheel simply needs to be attached to the outer engine. A 360 degree big-bang firing order was used to simplify the ignition and also because it provides torque characteristics similar to a single cylinder engine. Thus, both pistons fire at exactly the same time. A larger radiator was used to upgrade the cooling system. One problem I quickly found when running the second engine was that vibration had increased considerably without a second counter balancer. This problem was solved by machining a hole in the first engine to accommodate an oil seal and a small shaft that connects its counter balancer to the second engine’s counter balancer. I will confess it is very difficult to time the crankshaft coupler and counter balancers when assembling both motors. All done, I would say the NS144F probably has a curb weight of around 200 pounds, and I contribute another 200 pounds when wearing ATGATT. For those who wonder just how low a dyno can measure rear wheel power, please note the NS144F pumped out 17.89 horsepower and 10.20 lb-ft of torque. Unfortunately, this relatively paltry power outmatches the stock bike’s drum brakes. Moreover, the corner speeds it can now obtain fully overwhelm the motorcycle’s bicycle-like chassis. I would say the saga continues, but sanity recognizes quite a bit of time has been lavished upon such a limited motorcycle. Plus, other creations lurk in the corner of the garage… and my mind’s eye.  We’re suckers for nice photos and descriptive words and reasonably decent pics of your favorite motorcycle, or maybe just your most memorable one for all the wrong reasons? Send yours to contact@motorcycle.com, title it “Readers’ Rides,” and see yourself in this spot one of these weeks. The post Readers’ Rides: 1990 Honda NS144F Part II: Fate, Flowers, and Fifties appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 KTM 890 Duke REditor Score: 91.0%Engine 19.5/20Suspension/Handling 14.0/15 Transmission/Clutch 8.0/10Brakes 9.5/10 Instruments/Controls5.0/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 8.0/10 Appearance/Quality 9.0/10Desirability 9.0/10Value 9.0/10Overall Score91/100 Are you sick of us talking about KTM Dukes yet? And by “us” I primarily mean Evans. Anyone who’s followed this space knows he bought a 790 Duke and has modified it to his version of what an R model should be. The list is relatively short and sweet, and covers the primary weaknesses of the 790. So let’s go down the list: – Apex Pro 6500 Cartridges And 6746 Shock – KTM PowerParts Wave Brake Discs – Factory Pro Shift Kit – Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta Master Cylinder – Dynojet Power Commander V And Rottweiler Performance Power Plate Finally, when taken as a collective whole, here’s Evans’ take on how all of the upgrades work together. Evans says he likes his bike, swearing up and down the modifications have completely transformed the 790 and the wrenching process has been fun, too. He’s even gone on to say things like “it’s the journey, man, not the destination.” Heartbreaker I hope he truly means that, because after spending a day on the new, 2020 KTM 890 Duke R, my only advice to Evans was “whatever you do, DO NOT ride that bike.” I couldn’t stand the thought of seeing Evans in anguish after riding the 890 and realizing, if he’d only waited a year, he would have had a superior machine. It’d break my little heart. Let alone Evans’. If you own a 790 Duke, I mourn for you. Of course, I kid (a little). The 790 Duke is fine, but the 890 is, well, better. The 2020 KTM 890 Duke R. It’s basically Evans’ bike, but with updated electronics, a bigger engine, and better brakes. Evans might dispute the brake thing, though… As you’re no doubt aware, the Coronavirus pandemic has wreaked havoc on several industries, and the motorcycle business was not immune to those effects. The press launch for the 890 Duke R was supposed to be at some exotic location, with KTM staff on hand to answer questions. Instead, it was canceled. Our consolation prize was an afternoon spent riding a pre-production 890 Duke R up one of our favorite SoCal mountain roads. What we lost in being able to ride at some exotic location we made up for by avoiding jet lag, skipping frustrating airport delays, and by riding KTM’s Super Scalpel through roads we know like the back of our hand. Keeping a socially responsible distance from others would be a piece of cake too, since the 890 carves its way through a canyon road so well it’s hard for others to be anywhere near you. A Super Scalpel indeed. What’s better than one 890 Duke R? Three of them! Rest assured we’re trying our best to keep a socially responsible distance between us. Riding Impressions Normally we go in-depth about the technical details of a new model, but we’ve already done that. In case you missed it, here are 6 Things You Need To Know about the 890 Duke R, focusing on the myriad of changes over the 790 KTM employed for 2020. Combined with the links above detailing what Evans did to his 790, you should have a pretty good idea what the technical – and practical – differences are between the two Dukes. For this article, we’re going to skip straight to the riding impressions. Where else to begin, of course, than the engine. A modest 91cc bump in displacement may not sound like much, but in practical terms the extra cc’s amount to a boost of power in the midrange – below 5,000 – where street riders and canyon carvers will spend a lot of their time. The extra rush is felt in the top end too, obviously. I expected that, and it isn’t extreme. In fact, in the short time I had with the bike, it seemed like short-shifting was a better idea. Feeling that little bit more down low was a noticeable and welcome surprise. Beyond the larger displacement, the 890 engine gets a higher compression ratio, higher rev limit, bigger valves, new cases, heavier crankshaft, a new camshaft with higher lift, and individual fuel mapping per cylinder. Also impressive is the fuel mapping, with seemingly little to no hiccups or dips as far as I could feel. Giving it full gas all the time like you would in a track setting doesn’t tell you much about fuel mapping, but street riding and canyon carving gives a more accurate picture, especially in the middle of a corner and driving out. Here, when the 890 is mid-corner, minute throttle adjustments didn’t result in annoying lurches or surges. Just smooth, linear power correlating with the amount of twist you give with your wrist. KTM says the crankshaft has 20% more rotating mass which definitely could account for the smooth power I felt. I don’t know whether to credit the crank, ECU tuning, or both. The 890 gets a nod not only for the extra power, but also for how usable and accessible it is. The reality, though, is that the Duke R’s not just about the engine. In fact, with a name like the Super Scalpel, there’s a very real case for the 890’s handling prowess to be even more noteworthy than the engine. Besides, if you want an engine, go get the 1290 Super Duke… With the 890, the slightly lowered, tapered bars put you in the attack position without being too aggressive. Our particularly sinuous testing road has a good mix of long sweepers and tight, technical twists and turns. The bars are wide enough to give tons of leverage to will the bike to your cornering demands; not that a 24.3º rake angle, 58.3-inch wheelbase, and 366-pound dry weight really require much muscling – but hey, if nothing else, they’ll make it a little easier to stretch your elbows out to the ground at your next trackday for that all-important glory shot you can post on your ‘Gram. Because, let’s be real, #DoItForTheGram is really all that counts anymore. I’m definitely not complaining about the KTM’s bars (and, in fact, Evans let it slip he’ll probably be swapping bars on his 790 for this one…), nor am I complaining about the uprated WP APEX fully adjustable shock and compression/rebound adjustable fork. An upgrade from the non-adjustable WP pieces on the 790 (which really weren’t too bad until you pushed them at the track), they are technically a step down from the APEX Pro pieces Evans swapped on his 790. Still, having adjustability is always a good thing. I remember initially thinking when I first rode the 790 that a non-adjustable suspension could be the bike’s downfall. Turns out it really wasn’t. Of course, I had the opposite mindset this time around; having the ability to change damping was really going to come in handy. Truth is I didn’t touch a clicker all day. Granted, the only bit of riding we did was immediately in the twisty stuff, but the Duke R was well damped throughout and gave great feedback and communication from both ends. I might change my tune once I have a chance to slog some miles on the highway, but really, the only time you should be putting lots of highway miles on the Super Scalpel is so you can make your way to the curvy roads and do some Super Scalpel-ing. Sometimes an overlooked component of going fast is slowing fast. This hasn’t been much of an issue with any sporty bike in quite a while, but in upgrading the 790 Duke to the 890 Duke R, KTM quit messing around and upgraded everything to Brembo bits. A Brembo MCS master cylinder replaces the 790’s J.Juan piece and lets the rider adjust the lever ratio, while the KTM-branded J.Juan calipers are ditched for top-shelf Brembo Stylema calipers, squeezing on 320mm discs (up from 300mm). The bigger engine gets all the attention, but the upgraded brakes deserve some limelight, too. Apart from the engine, the braking system is probably the most significant upgrade over the 790. The Duke R scrubs off speed at an incredible rate, with great levels of bite, feel, and modulation at the lever. The MCS master cylinder is the underrated star of the show here, and being able to adjust the leverage ratio will suit a lot of different riding styles. Although, I figure, once you find the setting (of three) you like, wouldn’t you just leave it there? Personally, I opted for the 21mm leverage ratio (20mm and 19mm are the other options), as I like having the immediacy of the brakes right when I pull the lever. Cornering-ABS comes standard as part of the upgraded electronics suite (more on that in a minute), and with the optional Track package our test unit was equipped with, allows the rider to switch the ABS to Supermoto mode. And when you switch to S-Moto, you know what that means – rear wheel slides! As should probably be a surprise to nobody considering KTM’s success in supermoto, the 890 is excellent at sliding into a corner. Just pop a couple downshifts, feather the clutch and brake, and let the rear wag while the slipper clutch takes care of wheel hop. To be fair, the riding conditions on our day of riding were just about perfect, save for a little bit of dirt in the road in certain spots. So testing ABS wasn’t in the cards, and I still haven’t built up the confidence to test Cornering ABS. Back on the subject of electronics, KTM upgraded the 890’s brains to include a 6-Axis IMU and what it calls a “wheelslip controller” (two improvements over the 790) for more refined traction control intervention. Sport, Street, and Rain modes are the standard riding modes offered. Our test bike was upgraded with the Track package which, along with the Supermoto ABS mode, also includes a fourth ride mode: Track. While not an official cost from KTM, owners groups online are reporting buyers paying around $750-ish for the Tech Pack, which includes the Quickshifter+ and Track Mode. By now you’re probably familiar with ride modes and what they do in regards to power delivery (they get progressively more immediate as you step up from Rain mode). With that in mind, I spent the majority of my time in Track mode since the conditions were perfect. And it’s in Track mode that I based my earlier assessment of the power delivery and smoothness a few paragraphs earlier. Track mode also gives the rider more freedom to tailor the Duke’s settings to their liking. With some simple button presses on the left switchgear, you can change the throttle response to behave like any of the other three ride modes, as well as change the ABS, and turn off launch control and wheelie control. Keep the 890 in Rain, Street, or Sport and you’re stuck in its predetermined settings – not that that’s a bad thing. Even in direct sunlight, the TFT display is easy to read. Sorting through the options and changing settings is easy via the left switchgrip. In Track mode you can change the nine-level traction control settings on-the-fly with a simple tap on the up or down arrows on the left bar. To be honest, I’m really not sure if I ever dipped into activating the TC on our short day ride. I doubt it though; the Michelin Power Cup tires fitted stock on the bike have tons of grip (they better, they look almost like slicks!). Combined with the excellent power delivery and clean roads, the conditions were just about perfect for getting traction. However, having experienced the TC on Evans’ 790 at the track and being impressed with how non-intrusively it operates, if KTM says it has improved the system on the 890, I’m confident in its ability to save my bacon often without me noticing. In case it wasn’t obvious already, the 890 Duke R is a damn good motorcycle. However, it’s certainly not perfect, and there was one glaring sour spot I had: the transmission. I distinctly remember being impressed with the standard quickshifter setup on the 790, but with the 890 shifting from first to second using only the optional quickshifter required a decent amount of pull from your foot and was notchy and abrupt every time, no matter the rpm. The feeling was less pronounced, but still noticeable, from second to third, then fine after that. If you use the clutch then none of this applies, but then, what’s the point of a quickshifter? To give KTM the benefit of doubt, the particular test bike I rode was a pre-production unit with only a handful of miles on the clock. With only a day to ride the bike, it’s hard to say if more miles would improve things or if I just got a dud. On a much less serious note, my only other gripe was the seat. The rearward portion is fairly flat, and it’s where I sat for those times I was cruising and not going full ham (the front is nicely scalloped and helps keep you in place). Padding here felt cushy at first, but it almost feels like the base layer of seat foam under the top layer is a little on the hard side. 2020 KTM 890 Duke R + Highs Goldilocks engine Fantastic brake upgrade over 790 The Super Scalpel indeed – Sighs Notchy transmission (when using the quickshifter) Seat’s a little firm Uh…that’s all I got The Middleweight King If you’ve come this far, then it’s pretty clear where I stand on the 890 Duke R. It’s an absolute ripper of a motorcycle. I’ve always been a fan of middleweights for giving the Goldilocks amount of power, and the recipe KTM whipped up for the 890 is spot on. Having it accessible so early on, and in such smooth, linear fashion just sweetens the deal. In short, it goes, stops, and turns in a way that invites you to push a little more. It brings out every hooligan instinct in you, with the electronics safety net to save your bacon – should you decide to leave it on. (I feel this is a good spot to mention the disclaimer that no amount of rider aids can completely keep you from crashing…) It’s too bad we only had a day with the bike, as this is one motorcycle I’m sure the entire MO staff will be fighting over. We’ll get one to test on a longer basis eventually, and when we do we’ll throw it on the dyno, on the scales, and in the back of one of our trucks as we head off to a trackday with it (assuming Coronavirus restrictions ease up by then). Until then, we leave you with a very favorable early impression of KTM’s 890 Duke R. It’s one hell of a motorcycle, and for a starting price of $11,699, could very well be 2020’s biggest bang for the buck. Sorry 790 owners. In Gear Helmet: Shoei X-14 Motegi 2 $890 (Link is for Motegi 3) Jacket: Alpinestars GP Tech v2 For Tech Air Race $1000 Pants: Alpinestars Crank Riding Jeans $213 Gloves: Alpinestars SP-2 v2 Gloves $140 Boots: Alpinestars SP-1 Shoes Discontinued 2020 KTM 890 Duke R Specifications Engine Type Liquid-cooled, four-valve, DOHC Parallel-Twin, 4-stroke Displacement 890 cc Bore x Stroke 90.7 mm / 68.8 mm Compression Ratio 13.5:1 Starter / Battery Electric starter / 12V, 10 Ah Transmission 6 gears Fuel System DKK Dell’Orto (Throttle body 46 mm) Chain X-Ring 520 Lubrication Pressure lubrication with 2 oil pumps Engine Oil Motorex, Power Synth SAE 10W-50 Clutch Cable operated PASCTM Slipper clutch Ignition / Engine Management Bosch EMS with RBW Traction Control MTC (lean angle sensitive, 3-Mode disengageable + Track mode optional) Frame Chromium-Molybdenum-Steel frame using the engine as stressed element, powder coated Subframe Aluminum, powder coated Handlebar Aluminum, tapered, Ø 28 / 22 mm Front Suspension WP APEX 43 (compression, rebound adjustable) 5.5-inch travel Rear Suspension WP APEX Monoshock (Compression (high and low speed), rebound, hydraulic preload adjustable), 5.9 inches of travel Front Brake 2 × Brembo Stylema four piston, radially mounted caliper, brake disc Ø 320 mm Rear Brake Brembo single piston floating caliper, brake disc Ø 240 mm ABS Bosch 9.1 MP (incl. Cornering-ABS and super moto mode) Front Wheel Cast aluminum, 3.50 x 17” Rear Wheel Cast aluminum, 5.50 x 17” Front Tire 120/70 x 17 Rear Tire 180/55 x 17 Silencer Stainless steel primary and secondary silencer Rake / Trail 24.3° / 3.9 inches (99.7mm) Wheelbase 58.3 ± 0.6 inches Ground Clearance 8.1 in Seat Height 32.8 in Fuel Capacity 3.7 gallons Dry Weight 365.9 pounds (claimed) The post 2020 KTM 890 Duke R – First Ride Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Dear MOby, Does changing tires or wheel size on a bike that has IMU-based lean-sensitive ABS/TC performance alter the calculations or algorithms that are coded? I can understand ABS working okay because it’s monitoring wheel speed via the ABS rings, but unsure how the leaning TC would work. As examples: 1) Say a bike comes with 50-50 tires and the owner installs full on knobbies, or the reverse, 100% pavement tires. Those tires will provide significantly different grip characteristics on both pavement and dirt. How does the logic compensate for that? Or does the rider need to change the ABS/TC intervention level (if it can be changed), such that (for example) a Level 3 with 50-50 tires would equal a level 6 with dedicated street rubber, and level 1 with knobbies (the actual numbers are unimportant, just used for illustration)? 2) A bike that comes with a 21/18-inch wheelset that the owner changes for a 19/17-in wheelset. Like others, I did this with a KTM 990 Dakar. I liked the bike better on most surfaces more with the 19/17, and saved the 21/18 for dual sport/adventure events where the terrain was really off road. I know the 990 did not have an IMU; my observation is that that bike’s regular ABS worked the same. But folks do this with 1190s, and some even have installed 17/17-in wheelsets on 1190s. Trying to get a grip, Walter Barlow Dear Walter, As a guy whose only computer training involved punch cards circa 1980, I hate questions like this one. Let’s ask some experts, first of all KTM North America’s Tom Moen, who tells us: “All the electronics technologies vary in the different systems; Walter’s 990 was a simple but effective ABS system that measured the wheel sensor speed differences between front and rear wheels. On that bike, the wheel sizes did affect the sensor speed, but the system was basic enough that it still worked, even though it was never recommended to do so. Different tire types did not affect the ABS function; if you tried to lock up the rear wheel in a straight line, it would act the same whether it was a knobby or street tire. “For TC, changing tire types or sizes is kind of like varying street conditions; whether it’s wet or dry, the sensors do their same job, sensing that the wheel speeds are changing. For TC on KTMs, each model range has different systems, mostly because the systems have been evolving so rapidly since the original 990. “The 1290 Super Duke R was the first model that you could control or adjust the TC, it had 1 to 9 levels where you could control the rear tire spin: 1 was the minimum intervention, almost like no TC, and 9 was maximum intervention. In 9, you could ride with rain tires in the wet with no wheel slip. The different ride modes now kind of set TC pretty much without the rider having to think about it. We could spend days and pages describing and explaining it. Our current cornering TC has so many sensors along with IMU measuring g-force forward and aft, rate of lean plus the angle… the wheel sensors are comparing acceleration between each other, and it’s all doing it all so fast it’s almost not possible to believe it can work, and it works amazing.” There are a bunch of interesting vids over at KTM’s site that really only scratch the surface of how it all actually works, but more about the results/benefits. There’s also this totally unrelated one of Taddy Blasuziak explaining how to do a pivot-turn wheelie. Looks easy when he does it. Meanwhile at Ducati, when we borrowed a SuperSport and put on different tires for our Laguna Seca track day last summer, our Ducati media contact told us to be sure and reset the bike’s brain to compensate for the different Pirellis, even though they were the same sizes from the same manufacturer. There’s another page or two after this one in the SuperSport’s owner’s manual describing how to do this. While I was reading it and scratching my confused head, Ryan Burns rode the bike down the street, came back, and said, “OK done.” Those damn millennials. The SuperSport uses the older Bosch 9MP ABS, which is not lean-sensitive, so I was thinking maybe that need to recalibrate would be a thing of the past on newer Ducatis with IMUs. Checking the manual of the latest Panigale V4, complete with ABS Cornering EVO, Ducati Traction Control 2 EVO and all the rest of it for comparison sake, however, there’s still the same “Tire Set-Up” section, all the way from page 192 to 195: If owners install different tyres than original equipment ones and yet belonging to the classes specified by Ducati, this function allows them to recalibrate the system. It also allows system correct recalibration of all controls (such as DTC DWC [wheelie control] EBC [engine brake control]) in case the owner changed front and rear sprocket ratio, so that all motorcycle control systems can consider these changes / variants and adapt their processing parameters accordingly. How two different brands of bike, both using basically the same IMU, work completely differently, is more than Ask MO can deal with at this time, and a subject of ongoing investigation. A few months ago at a Triumph launch (Rocket 3), I asked Chief Engineer Stuart Wood if the IMU made it easier to program ABS and TC into each individual bike. To my punchcard brain, it seems that since the IMU can be telling the computer when the bike’s out of shape instead of waiting for all the other sensors to compare notes, like Congress, it would be way easier? Wood told me that it actually makes it even more time-consuming. First an ABS map for straight up and down has to be programmed, then more maps for various angles of lean. The same goes for TC. As for other brands, feel free to weigh in/ enlighten us all in the comments section. One last thing: There’s an excellent in-depth interview about IMUs with Bosch’s Matthias Mörbe – who holds the title of Vice President of Engineering Two-Wheeler and Power Sport, Europe, and Product Manager for Sensors, World – over at Bennetts. Don’t forget to come back to MO. Direct your motorcycle-related questions to AskMoAnything@motorcycle.com, though some say we’re better at non-motorcycle-related ones… The post Ask MO Anything: How Do Different Tires Affect My ABS and Traction Control? appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

When I initiated this project with MO’s long-term 790 Duke, my goal was simple. I just wanted an excuse to keep the bike as long as possible before I would be required to give it back to KTM. However, even before I considered buying the 790 for myself, I hatched another plan. I was going to build my vision of what a 790 Duke R would look like. Now, KTM has let the cat out of the bag and proved that a 790 Duke R really was never planned, meaning that it decided on an 890 Duke R instead. While it is beyond my capabilities to bump up the engine’s displacement (and retune the counterbalancers or shorten the shifter throw, among other things), as I run down the list of changes I applied to my 790, I don’t think that, although I was just trying to craft my conception of the ideal naked middleweight Twin, I strayed very far from where KTM has taken the 890. Building an R The two places where KTM cut corners on the 790 Duke are pretty much agreed upon: the brakes and suspension. Fortunately, there were several good options available to address these issues. Rather than saying these were shortcomings in the Duke, I felt these were obvious clues as to where the next iteration of the 790 was heading. After all, Triumph has been quite successful with multiple variations of its Street Triples. Why wouldn’t KTM do something similar? At least, I was half right. In the comments of the other articles I’ve written about this project, some of the more cynical readers have approached these changes as things that I needed to fix – as if there was something inherently wrong with the Duke. I see it more as I was excited by the platform’s potential. That’s why I ended up buying the 790. The desire to sharpen the bike’s performance simply makes sense for a rider of my background, and the fun of taking on this sort of project can’t be ignored. I’ve spent many happy weekends in my garage wrenching on the 790, but the real payoff is riding the bike that I’ve created. Adjustable Suspension The non-adjustable OEM suspension was the 790’s Achilles’ heel. Although it offered the compliance that makes street riding more comfortable, it could find itself out of sorts at track speeds. When I made my list of upgrades for the 790, finding new suspenders for it resided at the top of the list. Unfortunately, I had to wait quite a while before I could make the change because of articles we had planned for our long-term Duke. The preload-adjustable only stock shock was swapped for a reservoir shock that has hydraulic preload adjustment, high/low-speed compression damping, and rebound damping. Although I shopped around, I pretty much knew that I’d end up with the WP Apex Pro components. First, KTM owns WP. So, they belong together. Then there was Chris Fillmore’s record-setting run up Pikes Peak. Also, WP’s reputation for quality components and the fact that I’d never ridden on non-OEM versions of WP suspension before and wanted to see how it performed. Also, WP markets the Apex Pro as street-focused, and that fits for most of what I do with the bike. The full-adjustability of the suspension allows me to tune the ride for the task at hand. I have three settings that I typically use: sporty, for every day rides and canyon runs; soft, for extended freeway time; and track, which varies for each venue. I couldn’t be happier with the WP suspension. Yes, the WP Apex Pro fork is fully adjustable for preload, compression, and damping. With the stock fork, you get nothing. The cost of the WP Apex Pro components ($879 for the Apex Pro 6500 cartridges and $1099 for the Apex Pro 6746 shock with the optional hydraulic preload adjuster) is nothing to sneeze at, and this upgrade alone put the cost of my project over the base price of the 890 Duke R – $11,699. However, according to our contacts at KTM, the 890’s suspension slots in between the 790’s and the Apex Pro. For example, the 890’s fork has no preload adjustment, and the shock, while offering full adjustability, is of a different construction. MO Tested: WP Apex Pro 6500 Cartridges And 6746 Shock For KTM 790 Duke Better Brakes Brake upgrades were among the first changes I made to the bike, and I’m happy with the progression throughout the course of this project. The baby step of fitting EBC Double-H pads delivered the desired initial bite of the brakes, while the KTM PowerParts/Galfer Wave Discs improved the overall stopping power with the added benefit of significantly reducing the weight. For a while, I was satisfied with this arrangement. That is, until I rode the 2020 Triumph Street Triple RS, with its Brembo MCS master cylinder and M50 calipers. This started me thinking. The combination of EBC Double-H pads and the KTM PowerParts Discs delivered the additional braking power I was looking for. At this point in the project, the combination of the OEM master cylinder, the EBC pads ($80), and the PowerParts discs ($458) provided more than adequate stopping power for hauling the bike down from speed. Still, I wanted more immediate application of the front brake with less free play in the lever. While I didn’t have the budget for a full Brembo system, including M50s, I decided to try a Brembo 17 RCS Costa Corta master cylinder to see if it would get me to where I wanted to be. Long story short, the 17mm piston was too small for the piston sizes of the J.Juan calipers, and I ended up using the Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta ($372). Now, I have the braking power, feel, free play, and adjustability I wanted all along. However, those M50s – or maybe some Stylemas – still call to me late at night, when I’m cruising the net… The Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder provides a wide range of adjustability to suit riders’ needs. The power and feel at the lever are worth the cost. MO Tested: KTM PowerParts Wave Brake Discs MO Tested: Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta Master Cylinder More Midrange Don’t get me wrong, one of the 790 Duke’s strengths is its ample midrange for its displacement. That said, the more familiar I became with the LC8c engine, the more I noticed a slight softening of power in the 4,800-6,000 rpm range. I even used this dip as my around-town shift point for extra-smooth clutchless upshifts. Then, also, there was the matter of pride associated with the loss of 0.8 peak hp after installing the Akropovič “Slip-On Line” ($860) from the PowerParts catalog. (A fact that several of you MOrons roasted me for in the comments.) So naturally, I explored power upgrade options. A quest for redemption? I’ll let you decide. The key to more midrange: Dynojet Power Commander V and Rottweiler Performance Power Plate. In the end, I settled on a Dynojet Power Commander V ($420), a Rottweiler Performance Power Plate ($100), and Rottweiler’s Street Map (Rottweiler maps are included with purchase of a Power Commander V from them) for my exact setup (Akra slip-on with Power Plate). The initial results were promising – with an extremely large caveat. The increase in midrange performance is visible on the dyno graph. What’s hard to see is that the torque peak has moved 1,100 rpm lower. The good news was that, at every engine speed above 4,200 rpm, the Duke made more power. However, there was a puzzling flip side to my power modification that no one was initially able to explain. The problem was that from 3,000-4,200 rpm, at anything above 1/2 throttle, the engine fell flat on its face. Neither Dynojet nor Rottweiler have experienced this with any other 790 Duke. Long story short, the problem was caused by bad Power Commanders – yes, plural. Once a good one was swapped in, the 790 Duke put out the dyno graph shown here. The midrange received a 7% (3.5 hp) bump in power while the torque curve grew by a similar amount and had its peak come in 1,100 rpm earlier. Oh, and the Power Plate gives the engine a nice growl I can hear from the saddle without frightening the horses. The Akropovič slip-on looks and sounds nice, but it doesn’t provide any increase in power in it’s EPA-legal form. MO Tested: Dynojet Power Commander V And Rottweiler Performance Power Plate For KTM 790 Duke Weight Reduction While I could clearly stand to lose a few pounds (like 20!), I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that many of the modifications I made to the 790 Duke also shaved off excess poundage. (Some changes, like the Evotech-Performance Crash Bobbins and Front/Rear Spindle Bobbins, added weight in exchange for their crash protection.) Some upgrades, like the PowerParts Discs and the Akropovič Slip-On, shaved pounds, 2.9 lb. and 2.1 lb., respectively, while most losses were in the ounces. Still, the changes add up and make a performance difference in every riding situation. Notably, the biggest weight savings on the 790 came from installing a Full Spectrum Power Pulse IPT P10L lithium battery ($219) that subtracted 4.9 lb. I left a couple of other weight reduction items on the table, though. Removing the catalyzer saves 6.0 lb., but makes the bike too loud for my tastes (that’s without considering the legality). Swapping out the stock wheels for forged ones saves weight and rotational mass, but this mod is beyond my means, right now. In the end, the bike weighed in at 398 lb. – down from the original 411 lb. – on the official MO scale. The Hard Numbers 790 Duke R Costs Suspension WP Apex Pro 6500 Cartridges $879.00 WP Apex Pro 6746 Shock $1,099.00 Sub-Total: $1,978.00 Braking AF1 Brake Line Adapter $35.00 Brembo 17mm RCS Costa Corta with Reservoir and Mirror Mount $450.00 EBC Double-H $117.00 KTM PowerParts Wave Discs $458.00 Sub-Total: $1,060.00 Power Akropovič “Slip-On Line” $860.00 Dynojet Power Commander V $420.00 Rottweiler Performance Power Plate $100.00 Sub-Total: $1,380.00 Weight Full Spectrum Power Pulse IPT P10L $219.00 $219.00 Performance Total: $4,637.00 The first thing you will notice is that the cost of these changes is significantly more than the price difference between the 790 Duke and the 890 Duke R (even when you add the additional cost of the Quickshifter+ and Track Mode for parity). This doesn’t surprise me since the economies of scale work in KTM’s favor. Go ahead and tease me about how I could have waited a year and just gotten an 890 Duke R. My coworkers certainly have with great enthusiasm. Still, making the bike I thought KTM should have built was never really the point. Instead, my goal was to build the naked parallel-Twin I’d always wanted, and the KTM 790 Duke turned out to be an ideal platform. I just wanted to spice it up a little. Plus, I had the pleasure of installing most of these parts myself. Am I done with my 790 Duke Project? I think so. Then again, the 890 Duke R’s flatter handlebar looks intriguing… The post KTM 790 Duke Project: Building A 790 R appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

1981 was just slightly before my time, when I was still in the “lusting in my heart” but “unable to obtain” stage of motorcycling. I do remember the XS Eleven being the fastest thing at the dragstrip there for a while, in spite of its shaft drive, but I don’t know if I ever knew of the Venturer version of the bike, lovingly semi-restored by Ric McKinsey, of Crescent City, California. The saddlebags are genius. Take it away, Ric. This is what the original Venturer looked like. In 1981 Yamaha had nothing to compete with the Honda GoldWing. Their V-four touring bike (the Venture) was still two years away, so as a stopgap they took their biggest bike, the XS Eleven, and tricked it out for touring. It was called the Venturer. It came with a special version of the famous Windjammer fairing (by Vetter), a braced frame, oil cooler, 6.3 gallon tank, rear rack and hard saddlebags. When I found mine in 2015 it didn’t look like this one, but with a lot of work on my part I got it to where it is today. This bike might be 40 years old, but for a lot less than anything new I was able to paint it, replace the windshield, rebuild the forks with Progressive springs, rebuild the brakes front and rear, put on a fork brace, and Progressive shocks, LED lights all around with driving lights, new master cylinder, new handlebars, old-school fork boots and knee pads and on and on… It was great fun to do and I never see anyone on any thing like it these days. The bike is fast, very smooth, and very comfortable – and having taken it on quite a few trips now, I’ve got to say I’m really happy with it. The original saddlebags were missing from my bike, so in looking for a solution I came up with what I call my Adventure luggage. I modified tool boxes from Home Depot (Husky brand). The two saddlebags and top box cost $65 originally. I used the original yamaha bag mounts and added LED lights to the rear. This turns out to be the easiest-to-use bag set I have ever had. Very nice. Thanks for sharing, Ric. We’re suckers for nice photos and descriptive words and reasonably decent pics of your favorite motorcycle, or maybe just your most memorable one for all the wrong reasons? Send yours to contact@motorcycle.com, title it “Readers’ Rides,” and see yourself in this spot one of these weeks. The post Readers’ Rides: Ric McKinsey’s 1981 Yamaha XS Eleven Venturer appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 KTM 390 AdventureEditor Score: 91.0%Engine 19.0/20Suspension/Handling 14.0/15 Transmission/Clutch 9.0/10Brakes 9.5/10 Instruments/Controls4.5/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 9.0/10 Appearance/Quality 8.0/10Desirability 8.5/10Value 9.5/10Overall Score91/100 I don’t know why I assumed the new baby KTM 390 Adventure would be more of a milquetoast little beginner bike, like most of the other wannabe ADV bikes in its class, but I kind of did. It’s nothing of the sort. We’ve seen the photos (and maybe I failed to read the words), but in the flesh at KTM’s Murrieta, California, HQ, I was a little surprised. Say, this mini-Adventure looks like a full-size ADV bike, not a kiddie toy. Personally, I’d prefer something a bit lower, but as it turns out, looks can be deceiving. Though the 390 looks a lot like the acclaimed new 790 Adventure, it is way lighter. 2020 KTM 390 Adventure First Look KTM claimed a ready-to-ride wet weight of 460 pounds for the 790 and the official MO scales later read 467. For the 390, the Austrians say 379 all gassed up. If the margin of error remains 7 lbs, that puts the 390 at 386 lbs – that’s 81 lbs lighter than the already-flyweight 790. (Well, the 790 holds about 1.5 more gallons of fuel, which accounts for about 10 of those pounds.) That seems impossible, really, given that the 390 uses a chromoly frame much like the one in the 790, with 450 Rally overtones, the same overkill WP Apex 43mm fork and shock linked directly to the diecast aluminum swingarm (a thing KTM says saves weight and enhances feel). The wheelbase is about 3 in. shorter than the 790’s, at 56.2 in., but the seat’s just as high, at 33.6 inches. This is not a kiddie ride; we’re sat atop 6.7 in. of front suspension travel, and 7 in. out back. That’s still kind of tall, but the seat is narrow toward the front; my big toes can touch on both sides at the ends of my 30-inch legs. Critically, the bike’s so lightweight that being that high off the ground somehow feels less precarious. She’s easy to balance. And so we blasted homeward from KTM HQ the back way, on a beautiful spring day through scattered showers. I was gonna go over the mountain and through the woods, but the EXPECT DELAYS sign at the bottom and the rain clouds I could see up top convinced me to just go the rest of the way home on the freeway. Riding in the rain on a chilly day is cool, being delayed in the rain is not. Taking the freeway wasn’t that much of a sacrifice, in spite of the lack of cruise control: The throttle’s nice and light, as is the slip/assist clutch, and the gearbox is so slick I kept meaning to check if my bike has the optional quickshifter? (It does! But it’s a slightly sticky one.) We loved the Royal Enfield Himalayan’s comfortable seat if not too much of the rest of it. The 390 Adventure’s seat is almost as swell: broad, flattish and nubile, yet firm in a serious performance kind of way that keeps your coccyx from bottoming out. For 5’8″ me, the 33.6-inch seat height is just about ideal. Enough for real suspension down below, not too tall to reach mother earth. The seat is grippy yet comfy… You’d expect a cheap steel handlebar, but the 390’s is tapered aluminum, and its wide off-roady footpegs come with rubber inserts for when you’re not riding to Dakar. It all works together to give you that nice upright in-control rider triangle that’s made ADV bikes the choice of old guys everywhere. Everybody everywhere, really. When you look down, there’s even a 5-inch TFT screen with Bluetooth capability. Your 5-inch TFT works fine and can be Bluetoothed up for a few dollars more, for turn-by-turn nav, incoming messages, etc… Powerwise, you won’t mistake the 390 for the 790, but every other 390 we’ve dynoed (Duke and RC) have made around 42 horsepower and 27 lb-ft of torque, which is outstanding for a 373 cc single. It’s not a lot of power, but for most of us most of the time it’s enough. Southern California freeways are weirdly nearly empty, and at one point, it was my duty to lean down behind the windscreen and give it the berries in top cog: 90 mph arrives pretty quickly, 100 got there eventually on the bike’s 5-inch TFT display. Not bad for a lone 89mm piston. Some reviewers complain about vibration with this engine; personally I’m not feeling it – not enough to complain anyway. At 80 mph and 6500 rpm, things feel reasonably smooth to me. Suspension-wise, KTM and its subsidiary WP seem to have things dialed lately. The Apex fork and shock are decidedly firm, but also sophisticated enough over lumpy pavement in the first part of travel to absorb bumps and maintain an even keel. You can reach out with your left hand and adjust compression and rebound damping on the fork on the fly if you feel the need to experiment. The Bybre four-piston caliper and 320mm disc up front will get the front tire howling before the ABS (lean-sensitive) kicks in, which feels like stopping hard enough to me that I never got to the ABS threshold. Basically, I was falling head over heels with a cute little bike much younger than me, and then tragedy struck. When we strapped the little 390 onto the dyno the next day, after the first run or two, she would no longer pull past 6500 rpm. Is traction control off? Yes, it is. ABS off? You can’t turn it completely off. No dice. Strange, yet this new 390 is now ride-by-wire, with an all-new computer, etc. – and weird things sometimes happen lately in the wake of the Volkswagen diesel scandal. Back on the road, she still wouldn’t pull past 6500 rpm most of the time but would rev all the way to 9000 and peak power some of the time, seemingly at random. That randomness convinced us to go ahead and ride the bike for the photo/video shoot we’d already scheduled for a couple of days later, hoping it might fix itself. Some online experts speak of previous 390 computers having a 600-mile break-in programmed in, and ours wasn’t there yet. Maybe that was it? Now we realize that our dyno attempt had somehow just caused the little motor to go into limp-home mode. Maybe it thought we were the EPA? It was probably a bad idea to try to climb that little dirt hill in limp mode, but I think if I’d been in second gear and carrying more speed instead of in first, I would’ve made it no sweat; as it was, I ran out of revs halfway up since it was game over at 6500 and couldn’t keep from rolling backward down the hill; my attempt to cut her sideways in the soft dirt resulted in an unceremonious downhill high-side backflip. Luckily the dirt was soft and the camera was not yet rolling. What I’m trying to say is, I was having so much fun riding the little KTM around on dirt roads amongst the poppies, that even in limp mode, I was attempting things I wouldn’t even consider on a heavier ADV bike. If you get stuck, you can almost always just put a foot down and save yourself since you’re only 368 pounds. And if you had full power and 10,000 rpm, it doesn’t feel like you’d get stuck much. Even comes with crash bars, a reasonably sturdy skidplate and handguards – of which I only broke the left one; better ones can be found in the accessories catalog. The rest of the bike survived unscathed. Maybe those new Continental TKC70 tires have something to do with it. Conti says they have a lot in common with its ADV-beloved TKC80 but are designed to last longer, with a 60/40-street/dirt bias. Them and the bike’s excellent suspension. Later, I assaulted a pretty steep rocky hillside in second but ran out of revs again halfway up dammit, 6500 rpm. That time, it was easy enough to turn around and head back down and be impressed by the bike’s brakes. Its ABS has a Road mode and an Offroad one; in Offroad you’re allowed to lock the rear as needed. And the front disc, which we learned earlier is plenty powerful on pavement, is also really effective and easy to modulate with one finger crawling down steepish rocky trails. Technology. Headed homeward post-shoot, up the back side of the San Gabriels on pavement, was not optimal in limp. But rolling down the coastal side into LA was excellent. Being taller and with more suspension travel than 390 Duke or RC390, the Adventure doesn’t transition side-to-side quite as quickly, and the Contis don’t encourage you to lean quite so far. Still, the Adventure’s not going to be far off the pace. And anything that weighs only 368 pounds is a hoot to ride around those curves. The limiting factor is only your sightlines and sense of self-preservation. With the lockdown in place, there are a lot of Fast & Furious types on the Angeles Crest these days. One white Challenger would get close on the straights but always grew tiny in the KTM’s mirrors in the curves. Sad. Once on the freeway and headed back to the County of Orange, it was limp-homeward at about 68 to 70 mph for 50 miles. How ironic: empty freeways and a bike that’ll only do 70. Keep an eye on those mirrors… I’d left the house at 8:30 am, and got home at 7:30. I think that’s 11 hours in the saddle, a few of them on dirt roads, one backward somersault crash – and I felt fine, in spite of the seat being on the firm side. Stoked even. Crazily, I actually felt like I’d had a really fun day of riding, and that was in limp mode. Imagine how much fun this little bike will be when it runs right. [THIS JUST IN!!!!: Turns out we’ve been barking up all the wrong trees. KTM repo’d our bike to diagnose the problem, then gave it right back the very next morning. The word is it’s our own damn fault: We somehow loosened the sparkplug cap, maybe when we were attempting to dyno the bike, and that loose plug cap was what was causing the intermittent spark. Blasting around the ’hood for a few miles this morning, all is swell again and 9500-rpm service has been restored. Our bad. Unless, maybe, the Deep State intervened… we can’t rule it out. – JB] For God’s sake, can someone please explain the math to me. KTM wants $6,199 for a 390 Adventure, but over twice as much – $12,699 – for the 790. Is adding one more piston that much more expensive? OK, I get it, as you get better at riding you can always use more power, but at the same time if you’re like me, and were done getting better quite a while ago… or, if you aren’t super interested in being able to go faster than 100 mph across the burning sands anyway, I mean WTF, what a great little motorcycle this is. Really it’s not all that little; six-feet tall people are also okay on it. It’s a great light motorcycle. The more experienced I get (older), the more I’m willing to trade more horsepower for fewer pounds, and that goes double for adventure bikes. The more fun they are to ride, the farther they suck you into places where angels fear to tread. On this one, I feel like I stand a good chance of being able to get back out. KTM lists both the 390 and 790 Adventures under the “Travel” heading on its website. If you’re really going places, bigger can be better. But for throwing open the garage door and going for a few hours or a day-long expedition, this thing blows the competition out of the water. There really isn’t any. Kawasaki will counter with a Versys-X 400; it better be really good to beat this KTM. The BMW G310 GS is your father’s Oldsmobile, the RE Himalayan is a Maytag appliance, the Honda CB500X is your conservative overweight older sister… KTM seems to have struck again. 2020 KTM 390 Adventure + Highs The price is right, Bob Does not get soggy in milk Crash guards are standard; our bike was unscathed except for (see below) – Sighs Hope you like orange Need better handguards; our left one broke in soft dirt along with our clutch lever Will the old 690 motor fit in here? In Gear Helmet: Shoei Neotec 2 Splicer $799 Jacket: Spidi Hard Track D124/A Discontinued Pants: Trilobite Parado Elastic Men’s Jeans $219 Gloves: Dainese Quanto 4-Stroke Evo $220 Boots: Sidi Arcadia Tex $179 2020 KTM 390 Adventure Specifications Engine Type Liquid-cooled, four-valve, DOHC Single-cylinder, 4-stroke Displacement 373.2 cc Bore x Stroke 89 mm x 60 mm Compression Ratio 12.6:1 Starter / Battery Electric starter / 12V, 8 Ah Transmission 6 gears Fuel System Bosch EFI (throttle body 46 mm) Chain X-Ring 520 Lubrication Wet sump Engine Oil Motorex Formula 4T 15W/50 Clutch PASC slipper clutch, mechanically operated Ignition / Engine Management Bosch EMS with Ride-By-Wire Traction Control MTC Frame Steel trellis frame, powder coated Subframe Steel trellis frame, powder coated Handlebar Aluminum, tapered, Ø 26 / 22 mm Front Suspension WP APEX, Ø 43 mm, adjustable compression / rebound, 6.7 inches of travel Rear Suspension WP APEX shock absorber, adjustable rebound and spring preload, 7.0 inches of travel Front Brake Four piston, radially mounted caliper, brake disc Ø 320 mm Rear Brake Single piston, floating caliper, brake disc Ø 230 mm ABS Bosch 9.1MP Two Channel (incl. Cornering ABS and Offroad mode) Front Wheel Cast aluminum, 2.50 x 19” Rear Wheel Cast aluminum, 3.50 x 17” Front Tire 100/90 x 19 Rear Tire 130/80 x 17 Silencer Stainless steel primary and secondary silencer Rake / Trail 26.5° / 3.9 inches Wheelbase 56.3 ± 0.6 inches Ground Clearance 7.9 in Seat Height 33.6 in Fuel Capacity 3.8 gallons Dry Weight 348.3 pounds (claimed) We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post 2020 KTM 390 Adventure Review – First Ride appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Back in the era of my misspent youth, things used to be so much simpler. You’d take your new motorcycle home, bolt-on a “Closed Course Only” aftermarket exhaust, and (if you were smart) install a jet kit in the carburetors. The result was significant power gains and weight loss. Today, things are a little more complicated. Carburetor jet kits are illegal in some states, and the OEMs are making it tougher for EFI piggyback systems to alter what the EPA dictates your air/fuel tuning should be. Additionally, it is much more difficult to get aftermarket exhausts in some places. While exhaust manufacturers have responded by building EPA-legal slip-ons that meet noise restrictions, the result is the limiting of easy power gains. My experience with the Akropovič “Slip-On Line” ($860) from the KTM PowerParts catalog highlights this challenge. After the slip-on was bolted in place, a trip to the dyno revealed the sad news: a 0.8 peak horsepower loss. While the muffler, IMO, looked and sounded better (not to mention the 2.1 lb. weight savings), some MOrons mocked me for my folly. At that moment, I vowed to increase the power output of my KTM 790 Duke. Because I was out of my league with this challenge, I reached out to KTM guru and head honcho at Rottweiler Performance, Chris Parker, to see if he could help me with my challenge. While on the scale of products/services that Rottweiler provides, my request is relatively small. After all, Rottweiler builds adventure bikes capable of finishing fourth in the six-day Sonora Rally Against purebred race bikes. My requirements were simple: no excess noise (i.e. I was keeping my slip-on legal), no reduction in streetable rideability, and no Check Engine light (a common side effect of circumventing an EFI system’s anti-tampering features by disconnecting O2 sensors). Rottweiler Power Plate During my initial conversation, Parker said that he would free up the intake and adjust the tuning within the EFI’s restrictions to achieve my goal. I just needed for him to finish developing his new intake kit, the Power Plate, before we could proceed. Simplicity is sometimes the best approach. The Rottweiler Performance Power Plate offers decent gains with even more potential for racier exhaust systems. Rottweiler’s Power Plate replaces the solid cover of the airbox with one that has a large opening. Because this opening is behind the air filter (which remains in use), some means of cleaning the incoming air had to be incorporated. For that, Parker turned to oiled foam filter material, like that used on many dirt bike intakes. The final kit includes the plate and three different filters, one for street use and two for race applications. Installation is as easy as oiling and installing the filter, then bolting the Power Plate to the airbox. Total time was just 10 minutes. To get the most out of this intake change, the fueling needs to be adjusted to match the exhaust being run. That poses its own set of challenges. Dynojet Power Commander V Before we dive into the review of the Power Commander V, we need to establish what closed loop and open loop portions of the EFI are. In its most basic sense, the closed loop is a table with one axis being the rpm range and the other the throttle positions at which the end-user has no control over the air/fuel ratio. These are dictated by the combination of the ECU and the O2 sensors in order to achieve the mandated emissions standards. Unfortunately, the ideal air/fuel ratio for emissions is not the same as for maximum power output. The good news is that in the open loop portion of the rpm range the ECU surrenders its control, giving tuners free range over the mixture to find more hidden horses. For those interested in making the maximum power available (read racers), the ECU’s iron fist can be circumvented by disconnecting the O2 sensors and using a Power Commander to control the entire EFI table, but that leads to the aforementioned Check Engine light – or worse, limp home mode on some bikes. And the bad news is that with each new model year, the clamp on tuning gets tighter. Never fear though, the tuners have an active cat-and-mouse game with the OEMs to wrest the best performance possible out of a motorcycle’s engine. The box looks the same for all motorcycles, but the wiring harness developed for each individual motorcycle model makes Power Commander installation a simple plug-and-play. If you’ve been riding for any length of time, you’re probably already familiar with Dynojet and its ubiquitous piggyback EFI tuner, the Power Commander V. While many riders think that, on bikes, like the 790 Duke, which have a large closed loop section of the rpm/throttle range, the Power Commander won’t do anything until the open loop is reached, they’re forgetting that the PCV also controls ignition timing. Parker used this trick with his maps for the PCV on the LC8c engine. Then he optimized the air/fuel ratio to ease the transition from closed loop to open loop on up to redline. The result is the power that riders like me are looking for: more power with no error message (since the O2 sensors are still doing their job in the range that the EPA has total control of). Installing a Power Commander V is pretty straightforward. While you’ve got to be an accomplished enough mechanic to gain access to the fuel injectors and the ignition coils, the actual installation is a simple model-specific plug-and-play. You may have to use a Posi-Tap or two, but typically, no wires need to be cut. The most common challenge people face is mixing up wire color combinations. A red/yellow wire is different from a yellow/red one. After 90 minutes of wrenching, I thumbed the starter, and the 790 burst to life. The next morning, I was off to the dyno for verification. The dyno numbers were clear, and at every engine speed above 4,200 rpm, the LC8c made more power. Most importantly, the dip in the midrange was almost completely gone. However… In a symptom that neither Dynojet nor Rottweiler could initially explain, the engine fell on its face from 3,000-4,200 rpm. It was awful. Much troubleshooting ensued, and Dynojet’s tech support was extremely helpful. The decision was ultimately made to make a warranty replacement of the PCV. I copied the Rottweiler maps to my PC and waited for the new unit. And the same thing happened again. Because he is a generous soul (and he likes a challenge), Parker offered to troubleshoot my bike, and honestly, at this point, I was hoping that I’d done something stupid in my installation. Well, the bike did the same thing on Rottweiler’s dyno as it had done on the MotoGP Werks’ one we do the bulk of our MO testing on. So, out of curiosity, Parker pulled a Power Commander from his inventory and installed it. And it worked like a charm. I can’t say how freaky it is to get two faulty units in one product review (I even checked serial numbers to make sure that I hadn’t had the first one returned to me by accident), and Parker says that, out of the hundreds of Power Commanders he’s sold, his returns have been in the single digits. While the peak horsepower is negligibly higher, the flattening of the midrange soft spot is a real-world benefit. Having the torque peak 1,100 rpm earlier is nice, too. With the Power Commander finally working, the next step was to get a baseline run with the stock airbox and no map on the PC. We then ran the Rottweiler street map along with the Power Plate. While I expected the combination of the freer breathing airbox and the ability to control the fueling to deliver an improvement in the top end, I was surprised to see the bulk of the effect in the midrange, which showed improvement from 4,000-7,000 rpm, with the biggest gain at 5,400 rpm, where the increase was 3.5 hp or 7%. The torque saw a similar gain of 3.3 lb-ft. but 1,100 rpm sooner. The modified system delivers increased power throughout the entire rev range, with the exception of a couple of hundred rpm between 7,000 rpm and 8,000 rpm. Peak power is only up by a negligible 0.9 hp to 96.0 hp. Although the power curve isn’t completely straight, the primary effect of this modification was to negate the soft spot in the midrange while slightly improving power everywhere else. When riding the 790 with the Rottweiler map and Power Plate in place (even while troubleshooting the Power Commander issue), I was impressed by how the midrange felt tighter and more responsive – although I have to admit that the placebo effect (and perhaps the additional growl coming from the airbox) had me believing that the peak power was improved, too. Dynos don’t lie, and the Rottweiler dyno showed that I got the change that I was seeking in the midrange. A 7% gain is pretty good for a modern EFI/ECU system and its myriad of constraints on a tuner – particularly while maintaining street-legal sound output. There’s even more power available for riders who are willing to mount a louder, freer breathing race system and run with the check engine light on constantly, but I’m unwilling to do either. My 790 is a street bike first, and I like my neighbors. So now, as I roll on the throttle exiting the corners of my favorite winding road, my smile is even bigger. Fueling is hiccup-free, and the engine feels more spritely as it rips from 5,000 rpm up to my next shift point. Even with the challenges I had along the way, this pair of modifications is, I believe, worth the cost. The Dynojet Power Commander V retails for $420, and if you buy it from Rottweiler Performance, you get the maps and any future upgrades to them for free. The Power Plate costs $100 and probably holds even more potential when paired with a less restrictive exhaust than I am willing to run. Shop for the Power Commander V here Shop for the Rottweiler Power Plate here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post MO Tested: Dynojet Power Commander V And Rottweiler Performance Power Plate For KTM 790 Duke appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Updated April 2020 The latest rage in safety advancements for motorcyclists is airbag technology, and for good reason: it can dramatically reduce the severity of injuries during a crash. Obviously, nothing is 100% guaranteed to keep you from getting hurt (or worse) when you go down, but airbags have shown how effective they are in cars. Now, the tech is slowly trickling down to motorcycles. Here we’ve compiled a list of airbag jackets from various manufacturers to give you a better landscape of what’s available and what they protect – primarily the collarbones, vital organs, ribs, and back. Some even go so far as to cradle the neck. The triggering is provided either by a tether or electronic sensors. Are Motorcycle Airbags Worth It? Cost is a somewhat relative thing, isn’t it? For the über wealthy, price is merely a number. For a struggling college student, every penny counts. Save for one jacket on this list, each option below range from $500 and can go beyond $1100. If your financial situation makes you balk at these prices, consider for a moment the cost of an ambulance ride – or worse, a helicopter trip should you crash and hurt yourself in an area an airbag would protect. Either one is an order of magnitude higher than any of the options seen below – and we haven’t even begun to talk about the hospital bill after they fix you. When viewed under that light, these prices are much more amenable. With that out of the way, here they are the airbag jackets in alphabetical order. Alpinestars Tech-Air 5 System Tech-Air 5 is a slim, self-contained wearable airbag vest designed to be worn under virtually any jacket. The system provides unrivaled upper body protection uniquely covering the rider’s shoulders, critical in motorcycling accidents, in addition to the chest, ribs and full back. The Tech-Air 5 Airbag System offers the most comprehensive coverage of any motorcycling airbag available today. The state-of-the-art Tech-Air 5 System features six integrated sensors (3 gyroscopes and 3 accelerometers) to continuously monitor the rider’s position. An algorithm developed closely with MotoGP race data and data from over 2,000 lab-simulated crash scenarios determine when and how the system deploys. The airbag has a maximum inflation time of up to 40ms (or less, depending on vest size). The impact absorption while wearing the airbag results in a decrease of impact force by up to 95% compared to a passive chest or back protector. Inflation time is quick enough to deploy the airbag before the rider’s first impact with an obstacle. In addition, the vest will protect stationary riders in the event of a rear-end collision. The airbag has a battery life good for 30 hours of riding time on a single charge, and an LED display conveniently shows system status directly on the garment. The system features Bluetooth connectivity to pair with the Tech-Air App, which uses the rider’s phone to display the system’s operational status, battery status and provide detailed analysis of a ride. Over-the-air firmware updates are also handled through the app. Alpinestars includes a micro USB charger for quick recharging. Shop for the Alpinestars Tech-Air 5 System here Alpinestars Tech Air Race Vest – $1150 Alpinestars Tech Air Race Airbag System is a state-of-the-art, tether-free airbag protection system designed to be used with Alpinestars Tech Air Race prepared riding gear. The onboard computer system uses Alpinestars’ proprietary algorithms to process the information gathered by the vest’s accelerometers and gyroscope. Should the system sense a crash, it can trigger and fully inflate the airbag in 45 milliseconds, providing comprehensive protection to the rider’s full back, shoulders, kidney area and chest. The Tech Air is ready to go right out of the box – no need to install sensors on the bike or go through a complicated pairing process. Simply install the vest in a compatible jacket or race suit and go ride. The Tech Air Race comes preloaded with Alpinestars racing algorithms—the same algorithms used in MotoGP and WSBK– which are designed to detect the crashes typical of closed course competition. In this configuration, the system only uses one of its two charges at a time, saving the remaining charge for a second deployment. The vest is immediately ready to deploy its second charge. So, if you and your bike are able to continue the race, you won’t have to do it unprotected. If remounting a crashed bike to chase a precious few championship points isn’t exactly your style, the vest can be set to deploy both charges simultaneously for a quicker inflation. Due to its larger size, the 2XL size vest will always deploy both charges at once to ensure it is fully inflated in the same time as the smaller vests. The Race Vest is also compatible with Alpinestars’ street software settings, for use during typical sport, touring, and adventure riding. In addition to being better suited to detecting street crashes, which typically involve a second vehicle, the street configuration fires both charges at the same time, lowering the deployment time to just 25 milliseconds. Users can quickly switch between race and street modes using a PC (no Mac compatibility, yet) loaded with Alpinestars Tech Air Connect software. The Street Vest is NOT compatible with the Race algorithms. Shop for the Alpinestars Tech Air Race Vest here Alpinestars Missile Air Leather Jacket For Tech Air Race – $600 There are several Alpinestars jackets that are tailored for the Tech Air Race system, and the Missile is one such example. Wearing the traditional sport-like fit and aesthetic, the jacket itself is constructed of premium race-grade 1.3 mm genuine cow leather, punctuated with strategically-placed accordion stretch gussets and stretch fabric panels to allow for maximum mobility on the motorcycle. CE certified Alpinestars GP-R protectors and external sliders at the joints make the Missile ready for a high speed slide, while localized perforation and an airflow-optimized back hump ensure you stay cool during the ride. Shop for the Alpinestars Missile Air Leather Jacket For Tech Air Race here Alpinestars Tech Air Street Vest – $800 A common misconception is that the Tech Air Airbag system is comprised of one vest worn under any jacket or suit. This is not the case. As you can see in the two listings above, there are actually two vests – the Race and the Street. Both have very similar hardware, though they operate on slightly different software. With the Street vest, the ever-vigilant ACU is able to detect that things are going awry within 30-60 milliseconds, even when hit from behind at a stop light. It then triggers the dual argon inflator charges, fully inflating the system’s airbag in 25 milliseconds. After deployment, the Tech-Air compatible jacket can still be worn for the rest of the ride, taking advantage of the built in CE level 2 back protector. Then the Tech Air Street Airbag Vest system can be easily removed from the jacket and sent to Alpinestars for repair. In the Tech Air Street Vest, you are always protected. Whether you are carving canyons, putting in long miles on the interstates on a Goldwing, railing down a fire road on a GS or commuting to work on your trusty scooter, the Tech Air has your back. Shop for the Alpinestars Tech Air Street Vest here Alpinestars Yaguara Jacket For Tech Air Street – $650 Like the Missile jacket above, the Alpinestars Yaguara Jacket for Tech Air Street expands the number of jackets that will take the Tech Air Street Vest. With a Drystar waterproof membrane laminated into the shell with 8 ventilation zippers, the Yaguara Jacket is versatile to adjust to changing conditions. CE level 2 armor at the elbows and shoulders comes standard. Add in CE rated chest and back armor to complete your typical street-oriented protection. Max out the Alpinestars Yaguara Jacket protection by adding in the Tech Air Street Vest. Shop for the Alpinestars Yaguara Jacket For Tech Air Street here Dainese Carve Master 2 D-Air Gore-Tex Jacket – $1550 The Dainese Carve Master 2 D-Air Gore-Tex Jacket combines touring features and track technology for a feature packed jacket that can tackle inclement weather as well as provide air bag protection. Mugello and 3D Stone fabric combine to create a shell that moves freely while still holding up to abrasion and regular wear and tear. A Gore-Tex waterproof membrane is laminated directly to the shell to cut down on bulk. A removable thermal liner holds in heat while strategically placed vents flow some air as the weather improves. Shop for the Dainese Carve Master 2 D-Air Gore-Tex Jacket here Dainese Smart Jacket – $700 The Dainese Smart Jacket brings Dainese’s MotoGP experience to a standalone airbag vest that you can wear in a variety of situations. D-air airbag technology distilled down into a vest (sleeveless jacket) that can be folded and easily stored in a bag, top box or backpack. Wear the Smart Jacket over or under any jacket or outfit. Its sensors and activation does not rely on a specific shell to house the technology so you can wear the device with your leather track suit or your birthday suit (not recommended). A complex algorithm recognizes when you’re in danger so it can inflate the airbag post-haste to protect your back, chest and vital parts; no tether to your motorcycle is required. Put on the Smart Jacket, secure its fasteners, and you will be protected for 26 hours on a fully charged battery. The Dainese Smart Jacket uses seven sensors to analyze data at 1,000 times per second so the vest will be ready to deploy at a moment’s notice. MotoGP airbag protection can now protect the common rider outside of the professional paddock. Shop for the Dainese Smart Jacket here Helite Turtle Airbag Vest – $560-$580 If you don’t want to invest in electronic airbags, or simply want an airbag vest to wear over your existing gear, the Helite Turtle Airbag Vest offers the highest level of rider safety. The lightweight vest protects riders’ spine and vital organs due to its revolutionary design, incorporating a back protector on top of the airbag that disperses impact forces across the vest instead of concentrated in one spot. With its mechanical trigger and lead system, there are no delicate sensors to fail or batteries to replace. Simply connect the lead to your vest and bike and go. When the rider is ejected from the motorcycle in the event of an accident, the trigger is pulled and the vest inflates, creating a rigid neck brace as well as firm support to the spine, back, chest, ribs, and kidneys. Shop for the Helite Turtle Airbag Vest here Helite Free-Air Mesh Airbag Jacket – $940 Not just a company that makes airbag vests to wear over other jackets, Helite also makes its own gear with the airbag incorporated into it, like the Helite Free-Air Airbag Jacket. The Helite Free-Air Vented Airbag Jacket is equipped with Helite’s patented Turtle Airbag technology. It has a 600D Cordura exterior with mesh panels for maximum airflow. The Free-Air Airbag Jacket includes a removable waterproof rain liner for those cold, wet riding days. The rain liner is fleece-lined with no connecting points to the jacket. The jacket comes equipped with Level 2 CE approved Komine shoulder and elbow protectors. Shop for the Helite Free-Air Mesh Airbag Jacket here Hit Air Motorrad-2 Mesh airbag jacket – $590 The Hit Air jacket uses CE certified armor to protect the shoulders, elbows and the spine but most importantly, the Hit Air jacket also incorporates an airbag system. In the event of an accident and a rider is thrown from the motorcycle, the airbag instantly inflates (within 0.25 second) to protect the rider’s body. Activation is simple and automatic; A coiled wire is attached to both the motorcycle and the jacket. Once the rider and the motorcycle are separated, the coiled wire pulls a key out of a gas release system and inert gas inflates the air cushion. The inflated jacket provides the necessary impact protection. After a few seconds the gas is automatically released through the gas release valve. Shop for the Hit Air Motorrad-2 Mesh Airbag Jacket here Merlin Integrated Airbag – $500 The Merlin Integrated Airbag snaps onto selected Merlin Jackets to provide Level 2 protection to your neck, spine and tailbone. The Airbag inflates in 80 millseconds when the CO2 canister is activated. For those interested, Merlin also makes a universal version of its airbag that fits over most jackets. Shop for the Merlin Integrated Airbag here Merlin Horizon 3-In-1 Jacket – $350 If you’re looking to pair the Merlin Integrated Airbag with a specific garment, the Merlin Horizon Jacket is one of a few options. It is ready for whatever roads you decide to ride and whatever weather rises up to greet you. 3-in-1 interchangeable layers allow you to personalize the interior for changing weather conditions. Airbag sold separately. Shop for the Merlin Horizon 3-In-1 Jacket here Spidi Air DPS Airbag Vest – $700 The Spidi Air Airbag Vest protects your neck, ribs and spine in case of a get-off. The airbag inflation is triggered via a tethered cord in 200 milliseconds once activated. Wear the Spidi Air DPS Airbag Vest over your motorcycle gear for everyday riding protection. Shop for the Spidi Air DPS Airbag Vest here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post Best Motorcycle Airbag Jackets appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

AGV X3000Editor Score: 84.50%Aesthetics 9.0/10Protection 9.0/10 Value 5.0/10Comfort/Fit 9.0/10 Quality/Design 9.0/10 Weight 9.0/10 Options/Selection 9.0/10Innovation 7.5/10Weather Suitability 9.0/10Desirable/Cool Factor 9.0/10Overall Score84.5/100 The AGV X3000, if you hadn’t noticed, is AGV’s heritage-inspired line of full-face helmets. What sets the X3000 apart from others cashing in on the retro resurgence is the fact that this helmet is designed to replicate AGV’s first full-face helmet that donned the head of none other than the legendary motorcycle racer, Giacomo Agostini in 1969. The fact that Ago himself helped design the original helmet that the X3000 is based off gives this nostalgic lid a bit more street cred than your run of the mill vintage brain bucket. The shape of the AGV X3000 is decidedly retro. AGV even opted to stick with the shortened chinbar from the original which was requested by Ago to get his head lower on the gas tank while in a tuck. Although the shape is old school, the materials are anything but. The X3000’s shell is made from AFC (Advanced Composite Fiber) fiberglass and comes in three sizes (XS-MS, ML-L, and XL-XXL) to fit the corresponding helmet sizes. The interior liner is made mostly of microsuede which is comfortable against the face while the bottom is lined with leather to prevent moisture from wicking up into the helmet. The X3000 used a standard double D-ring closure. To open up the single vent on the front of the helmet, users will need to pop out the rubber insert. Thankfully, AGV provided a small sleeve on the underneath side of the right cheekpad to store the insert when it’s not in. use. A single inlet vent is found at the forehead and opened by removing the rubber insert in the shield. This inlet vents air over the top of the head. Typically, I’m not a fan of removable plugs for helmet vents. They make sense in the case of the Pista GP-R for weight savings and the fact that you aren’t likely to want to open and close your vents during a race, but otherwise, the risk of losing the plug can be annoying. Thankfully, AGV added a small pocket on the underneath side of the right cheekpad in which the X3000’s vent plug can be stored. Clever. The shield is removable and three tints are available (dark smoke, yellow, and silver iridium). Unfortunately, removing the shield requires an allen wrench. Not a huge deal, but it isn’t a toolless system like we see on most helmets these days. The shield does have detents and a securing mechanism on the left side to keep it shut. Those circlip-style fasteners on the side of the helmet aren’t actually functional, but rather a styling cue that doesn’t have anything to do with the shield removal. Under the black rubber plug in the middle sits an allen bolt that needs to be removed to switch out the shield. Of the three retro-styled helmets I have on the shelf (the others being the Bell Moto 3 and the Biltwell Gringo), the X3000 is the best fitting. Its intermediate oval head shape fits snug and secure without causing any hotspots to develop. The padding isn’t nearly as plush as something like an Arai, but rather feels firm and supportive. The X3000 is the first AGV helmet I’ve actually had to size up with. I wear a MS (Medium/Small) in every other AGV, from the Pista and Corsa race and sport helmets, to the Sport Modular and K6. I sized up to a ML (Medium/Large) for the X3000 and it fits spot on. The large open viewport provides an excellent field of view. Around town I have no complaints about the X3000. It has a large view port, the helmet is physically small, so it’s one of the few that fit under the seat on my Vespa, and at 3 lbs 2.4 oz, it’s pretty lightweight. The only issue I’ve found becomes more pronounced once speeds pick up or temperatures drop. That fun little detail about the contoured chin bar, the one that Agostini wanted shortened so he could tuck down closer to the tank while racing, causes a lot of wind to make its way up into the helmet. This of course worsens with speed and if it’s cold, you’ll need a really good Buff or balaclava to keep warm. I haven’t ridden through dusty conditions while using the helmet, but I also assume it could let a lot of debris in. That little niggle about the chinbar isn’t the only downside to the X3000 though. At $449.95 (for the graphic pictured), the X3000 is expensive. Prices range from $400 for black or white to $600 for replica lids bearing the likenesses of Barry Sheene and Angel Nieto. If you want the limited edition AGO1, we’re talking $700. Ouch. The AGV X3000 is DOT and ECE certified. I do think the X3000 is the nicest feeling, nicest looking retro helmet on the market with an acute attention to detail. I think the real history behind the helmet is also interesting and the fact that it involves (arguably) the GOAT, Giacomo Agostini, takes its cool factor to a whole other level, but dang, it’s spendy. Worth it? You’ll have to decide for yourself. Shop for the AGV X3000 here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post MO Tested: AGV X3000 Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Motorcycling is a niche activity, with sportbikes comprising a small niche within it. Track-only sportbikes make up such a miniscule niche within a niche within a niche that they’re almost not worth talking about. Until one so cool comes along that we’re forced to pay attention. The Kramer HKR-EVO2R is such a machine. This is its story. In the lore of sportbike mythology, there’s one motorcycle not often spoken of, but always revered when brought up in conversation: the Ducati Supermono. An extremely rare machine, Wikipedia says only 67 units were built between 1993 and 1997. Adding to the rarity was the fact it housed a Single-cylinder engine (effectively the front cylinder of an 888 with a dummy connecting rod on the other side to help cancel out vibrations – again, thanks Wikipedia) with a desmodromic head, of course. The mythical Ducati Supermono. It was essentially a mini superbike of the time, equipped with top-shelf Öhlins suspension, Weber fuel injection, and carbon fiber everywhere. Power-to-weight was the name of the game, and those lucky few who got to ride – and win – on one only added to the bike’s mythological status. Before he was derided for designing the original Multistrada and 999 superbike, Pierre Terblanche penned the Supermono’s appearance. He designed plenty of other attractive motorcycles, too (Ducatis included), but nobody seems to remember those. Anyway, I digress. Ever since, the thought of a lightweight, single-cylinder sportbike has appealed to many a garage tuner out there, with several examples of people yanking four-stroke dirtbike engines and stuffing them into sportbike chassis’ (old two-stroke roadracers come to mind) – or working the other way and converting 450cc motocrossers into suitable roadracers. For one reason or another, the idea never caught on en masse, despite heavy promoting from some corners of the moto world. Just ask Roland Sands how that turned out. Some big names tried to ignite the Super Single road racing scene with converted 450cc motocross bikes, but the series never caught traction. The Kramer Story Undeterred by past attempts to revive the supermono, Markus Kramer set about to produce his rendition of the ultimate single-cylinder road racer. This time Kramer eyed the Single inside the KTM 690 Duke. A logical choice for a number of reasons: streetable reliability and respectable power being two big ones. But the biggest reason this was a logical choice is Kramer’s own personal ties to the engine – he used to be on the KTM payroll. Designing or building the 690 engine wasn’t one of his responsibilities, but being inside the building everyday – even weekends – made him acutely aware of what it could do, and naturally, he made some deep connections with those in the engine and chassis departments. These connections ran so high up the chain of command that when Kramer decided to leave the company and pursue his dream of building his own track-focused race bikes, Hubert Trunkenpoltz (the T in KTM) agreed to sell him engines – something KTM hasn’t done for anyone else. Markus Kramer himself, testing the first iteration (or EVO1) of his motorcycle using a heavily modified 690 Duke frame with RC8 components. The long, winding road to get to the HKR-EVO2 involves lots of testing with 690 engines inside RC8 frames (EVO1) and Kramer’s chassis engineer friends helping him fine tune the package. I won’t bore you any further with the details because I’ve told the Kramer Motorcycles story before, but I still find this background information so interesting. The HKR-EVO2R Going back to the Supermono ethos at the top of the page, while the HKR-EVO2R may not have any Ducati DNA, it’s undoubtedly the modern day successor. A completely standard 690 Duke Single sits inside a bespoke Chromoly steel trellis frame – not a repurposed KTM piece. Same goes for the swingarm. The engine is said to make 80 horses at the crank, equating to about 70 or so to the wheel. Better yet, it’s only pushing 275 pounds (with about half a tank of gas). This is technically an HKR-EVO2S, not the R. The S was a slightly less expensive version of the EVO2 because of its cast wheels, single brake disc, and lower-spec suspension. I campaigned this bike two seasons ago to good results, but starting in 2020 only the R will be available. How Kramer achieves such low weight numbers is part of the appeal of the bike, at least to me. The front subframe is rotomolded, wheels are Dymag forged aluminum, brakes are top-shelf (and lightweight) Brembo Stylemas, and unlike a road-legal motorcycle, there’s no unnecessary fluff like lights or emissions equipment. A Kramer is pared down to the essentials needed to go fast. But, the pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the one-piece XPE plastic rear subframe that doubles as the seat and 3.17-gallon fuel tank. Available in either black or clear, the latter lets the rider instantly see just how much fuel they have. Moving fuel to the seat lowers the center of gravity and opens the area usually reserved for a gas tank to serve as the airbox for the 690. There’s also space under there to house a tiny lithium battery, and some other ancillary bits. Lastly, the tank’s lower mount is eccentric, allowing its position to be changed up or down depending on rider preference. It sounds weird to get so excited over a gas tank, but the Kramer’s seat/subframe/fuel tank is genius, and it gets extra bonus points for being able to tell how much fuel you have just by looking at it. Having an in at KTM goes beyond engine support. As KTM also owns WP suspension products, you also see Kramer motorcycles sporting WP forks and shocks, too. They’re fully adjustable and sprung for riders in the 170-pound ballpark. The thinking goes, I assume, that anyone weighing substantially more probably isn’t looking at one of these anyway. If you are, springs and valving are simple to change (for a fee). Same goes for light folks, too. Ready To Race If you’ve read my reviews in the past then you know I’m a performance-minded kind of guy. The science and engineering of speed and quickness compels me, and exploiting that engineering excites me. Road-legal motorcycles, even sportbikes, are inherently full of compromises. They need to be. But that’s also why the aftermarket exists. With that in mind it’s all the more impressive how good your standard motorcycle is right off the showroom floor. I use the term “razor focused” often to describe Kramer Motorcycles and for good reason. But what’s equally impressive is how inviting they are for riders of any skill level. The combination of lightness with moderate power works on street bikes and race bikes alike. Take away the intimidation factor that comes with heft or an abundance of power, and you have performance that’s accessible to anyone. Photo: Etech Photo What happens, then, when you hop on something not hindered by pesky things like government regulations? Something built for a single task? What happens is the discovery of what it means to be razor-focused. Everything is precise. Every input leads to an action. Confidence and communication go hand-in-hand. The chassis tells you exactly what’s going on underneath you no matter your lean angle, and the message is usually “I’ve got you. Go faster next time.” Those rare times it’s not, it tells you that, too. When you combine this combination of precision, communication, and lightness, you can put the EVO2 exactly where you want it, lap after lap. Horsepower is a hypnotizing phenomena, especially in racing. It seems as though the more of it you have, the more you want. I’d be lying if I said I’m not a fan of horsepower also, but when you’ve only got about 70 of them making their way to the rear tire, you’re forced to focus on riding technique and race craft to make a quick lap. Instead of relying on power to mask your deficiencies, you’re constantly pursuing the perfect line, opening the throttle sooner, or using the brakes later to exploit the Kramer’s strengths instead of exposing its weakness. In short, riding a Kramer forces you to perfect your technique. When you get it right, there’s no better feeling on two wheels. It’s this pursuit of perfection that appeals to me more than power. The middleweight twins class found in many club racing organizations, where machines like the Suzuki SV650 and Yamaha FZ/MT-07 compete, is the ideal stomping ground for the HKR-EVO2. In fact, during the race meeting where this photo was taken, an EVO2R won and nearly took the lap record – all with a stock 690 Duke engine, too. Photo: Jim Sendy Of course, chasing perfection requires a cohesion between all of a motorcycle’s components. Since the EVO2 is built around a Single, it’s inherently narrow, but its clip-on bars are placed wide to give you plenty of leverage. Not that its forged wheels require much effort to change direction. When it comes time to slow down, which is rare, a pair of 290mm discs are clamped by Brembo Stylema calipers, fed through a Brembo master. Track nuts might be surprised at the choice of 290mm discs, but the bike doesn’t weigh very much and, in the grand scheme of things, is probably only hitting 130 mph on the longest of straights. Point being, there’s plenty of firm, responsive stopping power to slow down. If there is an area worthy of criticism, it’s the suspension. For glass-smooth surfaces like you often find at European tracks, there’s not much issue. But at many of America’s bumpy tracks you’ll reach the limits of the shock’s adjustment range quickly if you’re pushing hard. Then again, I’ve heard of riders heavier than 170 pounds knocking on the door of lap records with the standard components. Your mileage may vary in this case, especially depending on your riding style. Nonetheless, this inconsistency is not something you typically find with a certain Swedish company… When it comes to perfecting your race craft, the precision Kramers deliver allows you to place the bike exactly where you want it. Because you can’t rely on horsepower, you have to plan your move in advance. Support How well do Kramers crash? This one tumbled end over end with forces strong enough to have the bottom of the seat/tank slap the tire. The rider was able to pick up the bike and ride back to the pits. The unfortunate truth in racing is crashing, and a natural question on many people’s minds is what level of support do you have with a small company like Kramer when the inevitable happens. I’m ashamed to tell you that I know from firsthand experience just how well Kramers crash. Mine was a simple lowside, but I’ve also witnessed first-hand Kramers toppling end-over-end. In both cases the bikes suffered a bent clip-on. The tumbling Kramer suffered a lot more cosmetic damage, but functionally the only other thing replaced was a frame slider. These bikes crash remarkably well, and commonly used spare parts like clip-ons, pegs, and frame sliders are a phone call away to Kramer USA in Fargo, North Dakota; which, really, is just one guy – Joe Karvonen. But even if you don’t need to replace damaged parts and are just looking for tips, tricks, or advice on working on the bike, Joe is a wealth of information. It’s understandable to be cautious when dealing with any small company, Kramer included, but in so much as you can be comfortable buying a niche machine, the after-purchase support from Kramer is top-notch. The front side of the same bike from the picture above. Only the clip-on needed replacing. Not bad considering it did the ground-sky-ground-sky dance a few times before coming to a stop. The Supermono Lives On By now, after sorting through the components, looking at the pictures here, reading about what it’s like to ride, and getting a slice of the ownership experience, you likely get the idea that this is one serious bit of kit, wholly inspired by the Ducati Supermono of long ago, but on a scale more reachable. And when I say reachable, I mean in terms of production and actually being able to get one. Of course, therein lies the rub. “Getting one” will set you back $22,495. No matter how you slice it, that’s steep. If you’re just looking to get into middleweight twins racing on the cheap, you can grab a used SV650 or FZ/MT-07 for a fraction of the cost and be on your way. Comparing new versus used isn’t entirely a fair comparison though, so let’s break things down a little further. When you factor in how much would it cost to buy a new 600, or even a 650 Twin, then all the components needed to make it a front-running, competitive machine, you can easily surpass the price of an EVO2 – and that assumes you’re doing all the work yourself. Also, too, assuming you’ve chosen to race a 600, you’re now racing in what many people call the meat-grinder class, where today’s up-and-comers (and potentially tomorrow’s stars) are working to make a name for themselves. The competition is cutthroat and aggressive, and unless you’re willing to lay it all on the line you’ll likely be mid-pack, at best. Oh yeah – that crashed bike from up above? It went on to win its class in the 5-hour endurance race at Brainerd International Raceway last year with a few moto-journo hacks you may or may not recognize. With the EVO2R, your lump sum of cash gets a fully-prepped machine, ready to win races. No additional leg work needed. All you have to do is gas it up and ride. It’s extremely competitive anywhere middleweight twins like the Suzuki SV650 or Yamaha MT-07 are raced (except MotoAmerica Twins Cup because, well, it’s not a twin), and here’s a pro tip: when it comes to rules for single-cylinder motorcycles, it’s basically the Wild Wild West across nearly all club racing organizations in the US (at least the ones I’ve looked up). You can run as mild or wild a bike you want, as long as it only has one cylinder. Whatever displacement, whatever modifications. So, instead of being mid-pack on a 600, you stand a chance of being at the front and bagging a championship or two on a Kramer. Factor in your tire bill and chances are, yet again, that you’re very likely to come out on top on a EVO2 compared to a multi-cylinder machine. If national, or even international, fame and glory is your life’s dream in motorcycle racing, then by all means pursue that dream. For the rest of us who realize regional glory (whatever that means to you) via club racing is probably as far as we’re going to get in this sport, the Kramer HKR-EVO2R is the ticket to take you there. Coming up next for Kramer is the GP2, powered by the 890 Duke twin cylinder. I was lucky enough to get to try the 790 Duke-powered GP2 prototype in 2018, and it’s one special motorcycle. Click on the picture to read about the experience. The post Kramer HKR-EVO2 Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

If you know only one thing about Don Emde, it is probably that, with his 1972 Daytona 200 victory, he became the first – and only – son of a Daytona 200 winner to duplicate the feat. Since those days, Emde has devoted his life to motorcycling. He is the publisher of Motorcycle Dealer News and the author of several books. His first was the 1990 history of the Daytona 200, which is often referred to as the Bible of Daytona 200 history. In 2016, Emde published Finding Cannon Ball’s Trail, in which he chronicled a reconstruction of Cannon Ball’s historic 1914 cross-country record run. Not content to merely reconstruct the route through available technology, Emde and his colleague, Joe Colombero, traced out the route and then led a centennial retracing of the route – down to the minute of the start with a group of 30 riders, including many motorcycle industry notables. Being a life-long collector of motorcycle magazines and memorabilia, Emde has served on the Board of Trustees of the American Motorcycle Heritage Foundation, including a stint as its Chairman. So, it should come as no surprise to learn that Emde’s latest book also looks to enlighten its readers about another era in motorcycle racing, the rise and fall of motordrome racing. The Speed Kings outlines in extraordinary detail, both in photography and text, the short but vibrant history of motorcycle board track racing. The result is a 372-page large-format book that was the first motorcycle-related book to win the Motor Press Guild’s Book of the Year award. Joe Wolters leads Jake DeRosier and Charles “Fearless” Balke at Los Angeles Stadium in February of 1912. Image: Stephen Wright Collection (Don Emde) Despite the years Emde spent writing The Speed Kings, he still has a lot to say on the topic, and MO was fortunate enough to spend some time with him discussing the 50 years of work that culminated in the book. Buy The Speed Kings here MO: Since you just won the Motor Press Guild’s 2019 Book of the Year award, we thought this would be a good time to find out a little background about The Speed Kings. So, we’ll just start with: What drew you to the topic? Don Emde: It goes back to the whole idea of growing up in the motorcycle sport. My father raced, and he went back so much farther than I did and knew people like Joe Petrali and some of the early Indian and Harley founders. So, he was always a big fan of those early days, and I guess I would call him an influencer. But he never raced board track. It was even well before his years. He raced in the forties with all the hand-shift WRs and Indian Scouts. He also collected a lot of magazines. So, after his racing years were over, he had a motorcycle dealership, and when I was growing up, we were living the life of a family with a motorcycle shop. I was down there even at a pretty young age, and I started getting the bug and started collecting magazines. Sometimes, they would have different ones they were selling the shops, and I would get one I could take home. So, I started to like the AMA magazine and some of those others, and that really started me collecting magazines. Then, my life went through my years of racing and then staying in the motorcycle business afterward, motorcycling has been my life. I was an AMA member and getting my magazines. I started subscribing to Cycle World and Motorcyclist, and those were my primary three magazines. My collection really started to build. Then, as an adult, I became a collector. My collection started with 1960s issues, but I began looking even farther back. I had my father’s AMA magazines and some other ones from the forties, and I started trying to find some of those early 1900s magazines. It took a while, especially once the vintage and antique stuff really kicked in because those early magazines started costing big money. MO: At least, you were a little ahead of the curve. DE: Sometimes, it would just be a swap meet somewhere, and I’d find three or four of them. Eventually, when eBay came out, you could buy them easier, but they were really expensive to buy one at a time. Then, I started getting people who knew who I was and that I collected these things, and I started, just over time, getting people who’d say, “Hey I got a guy, and his grandfather died, and he has 50 of them.” For the last 20 years, I had a couple of guys hunting for me to fill in those old magazines, and it was kind of like, “Well, if I don’t have it, I need it.” I keep everything in file cabinets with acid-free folders, and it’s all organized well. So, I guess what I’m getting around to is just how many years it took to really build the collection before the idea of the book was ever considered. I basically tried just to fill in the span of years, and the thing that can be so fascinating is when you have one of those magazines is that they’re kind of like those early Sears and Roebuck catalogs. You look through the gloves and goggles and things, and you can get a good laugh. But it’s hard to get a good understanding of how it all flows, and the thing that’s so fascinating is that, in the early days, there were over 100 brands of motorcycles. And so there was the magazine in New York called Motorcycle Illustrated, and that came out every week. There were 60, 80, or sometimes for a show issue, it would be 100 pages, coming out every week. Not long after that, one in Chicago called Motorcycling came out, and it was every week. Later, it was the Pacific Motorcyclist, which became Motorcyclist magazine. Ray Creviston stands with 1,000 Excelsior at Houston Motordrome in 1914 (Don Emde Collection) As I started to fill in the collection, you could start to see the flow because it would be week to week to week. In some cases, I have the same race being covered by Motorcycling as well as Motorcycle Illustrated. So, I got a couple of points of view, and I became kind of addicted. One of my great finds would be July 10th of 1911 you know, but then I’d skip a couple of weeks. Later, I might fill in the 17th and the 20th, and I’d be filling in all those weeks and then really find out what happened. I guess we’re coming back around to The Speed Kings. It took me about four years of research and writing and production, but it really was about 40, 50 years of collecting, of really getting a collection together to build it. Because the thing that you know nobody’s really ever been able to do, I think, is to be able to work from that kind of a base. Stephen Wright, Harry Sucher, and Jerry Hatfield and all these other guys who have done this stuff. They’ve always done their best with what information they could scrounge up. The difference was that, when you had limited amounts of information, then anything and everything went in, and it never quite flowed. When I got the idea of trying to put my book together, I went through my collection, and I found over 1,000 magazines that had something to do with board track racing. I started taking those home at night to scan them on my computer, and I ended up with about 6,000 pages. Then it allowed me to really get selective and make a story out of it. By going in and just staying focused on the riders who started as nobodies and became big stars and how it worked out for them. I ended up trying to be a little bit selective on how much other related things those guys were doing: their dirt tracking and their board tracking. I had to figure out how much of that to include. It was all just trying to become a story. It took a long time to pull it all together, but in the end, it allowed me to get really selective and stay focused. MO: Plus, you have lots of photography in the book. Were you simultaneously collecting photos? DE: I was collecting a lot of my own photography through different sources and eBay and the same guys that were finding the magazines for me. So, I was able to get quite a bit of good material, but a couple of other things happened. One was just by being around all the stuff, you know where some of the other photography might be. For example, I knew about the archives of Oscar Headstrom and George Hendee, the Indian founders. Also, Charlie and Esther Manthos had a museum for a time in Springfield, MA. They had scrapbooks and a lot of photography. When they passed away, their families donated that to the Wood Museum of Springfield History. I was able to go through their actual scrapbooks, and the museum would make the scans for me. There were some other sources, like Getty and some other photo archives. Stephen Wright wrote American Racer, 1900-1939 on board tracking. He was a good friend, but he passed away seven years ago. I’m not a really rich guy, but I decided to spend more than I normally would to give his daughter a fair offer on her father’s archives. I think she knew that I was going to keep her Dad’s work alive. So, I was able to buy his whole collection. A lot of the photography that is in American Racer, the first edition on the early days, I could make use of — although I didn’t use it in the same way that Stephen did. Stephen’s was a large panel plates type approach. I used the photos to fill in along with the stories that I ended up writing. The Lagoon Motordrome in Ludlow, Kentucky, just across the Ohio River from Cincinnati. Circa 1913. (Don Emde Collection) So now, I had Stephen’s collection and could make use of images he probably would have himself if he were still around to publish more books. If you go back into some of his early books, there’s just a couple of little uses of an early collection that he found that was collected by a guy named Paul Derkum in Los Angeles. He was known as “Daredevil” Derkum, and you’ll find him in the early chapters of the book. But he had newspapers and a lot of early photography that had very limited use. So, I was able to actually use some things that had never seen the light of day. More importantly is that later, after Derkum quit racing, he became a promoter. He became a track manager for some of the early board tracks. So, he was the track manager of the Vailsburg board track at Newark, NJ, and I won’t spill the beans about what ends up happening there. But it becomes very newsworthy, and as a result of being the track manager, Dirkum kept all of the newspapers from when the track opened through the whole time that he was there. He had all these original newspapers, and then there was some other related photography and other things you’ll see in the book that was, again, very limited use by Stephen where I actually devoted a couple of chapters to it. Maybe lastly, I’ve also been kind of a collector through the years of racer scrapbooks. I’ve got a couple of other real notables of the later years. There was a guy named Jack Prince who was the builder of most of the wooden tracks, first bicycling and then motorcycling and eventually the big car tracks. I was able to buy a scrapbook of his that had some really fantastic early photos of the first track in Los Angeles, called the Coliseum. Later, there was a kind of an amazing, a little bit creepy, way I got another scrapbook. What happened was there was one chapter where there was another big incident in Ludlow, KY. It was very newsworthy, and I ended up writing a lot about it, but I didn’t have a picture of the guy who caused the crash. So, I continued on in the production. One day, one of these pickers called me and said he had this scrapbook for a guy named Odin Johnson. It turned out that was the exact guy that caused that one big crash. This was his own personal scrapbook not only with pictures of him, but also some of the other guys that he was racing against that we didn’t have pictures of. How weird is that? I had the opportunity to acquire Stephen’s collection and other scrapbooks. Basically, all together, it was my own stuff, the things I was able to license from museums, photo sources, and then these scrapbooks. It all kind of came together. I even had the photos that didn’t even make the book. A sample page from The Speed Kings shows a design style that carries through the book with text, photography and examples of related materials, such as this race program. (Don Emde Collection) I think that a lot of books through the years have had to find a picture and then kind of reverse engineer. They have the picture then they try to write a caption and pull it together to where there’s still continuity. Whereas, I ended up writing the story first. We’re self-publishers. So, we do our own production, and after I would write one chapter, I would give it to our art director and say, “Here’s the text, and here are some pictures. I’d like to get as many of these as I can and this one to be really big.” She did a wonderful job putting all that stuff together, but not everything could make it in. Everything was selective as we could make and the best of the best was included. And it just worked out. The style that she had was that there’s something going on on every page, and very few pages have just text. We tried to make it as appealing as we could. It was a lot of work to put together, but it was very high energy. It was something that I was very motivated to do. MO: It sounds like it. DE: I think it probably might not be affordable for a traditional publishing company to do, but by just running my own business and having other things that we do that keep the doors open, I was able to treat it like my hobby. But I really wanted to create something that, when it was all done, someone could hold it, and not only would the stories and pictures be interesting, but overall just give an impression of “I want this book. I need to have this book.” So, I was totally happy with how it all came out. The Speed Kings, Jay Leno approved. With Don Emde at a book signing. Buy The Speed Kings here The post Don Emde On Creating <i>The Speed Kings</i> appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Robert Perkins tells us the tale of his hopped-up 1990 Honda NS144F: The pictures included are of my Honda NS144F. Actually, it started life as a stock 1990 Honda NS50F, which was a liquid-cooled update to Honda’s slightly better-known MB5. I bought it as a novelty to my meager Honda motorcycle collection and never gave it much attention . . . until the day I was initiated into the subculture of modest-displacement motorcycles at a 50cc rally. Readers’ Rides: Martin Adams’ Commonwealth Racing Norton Tucked away in the Georgia mountains (cue banjo music?) I found myself participating in a 100-kilometer Isle of Man aboard this fiery machine. After returning a changed man, I knew one thing for certain: 50cc and seven claimed horsepower were not enough to quench my lust for power. A sane man would have simply turned his attention to more powerful motorcycles in his stable. The ones which easily pumped out 10 times or more the horsepower of my measly 50, but that would simply be too easy. No sir, I wished to hang with the fast crowd, to be one with their big-bore kitted 50s approaching speeds, real or imagined, of 65 mph and beyond. And a year later I did just that with the help of my credit card, worldwide shipping, and one 72cc big-bore kit with matching head (not to mention a flat-slide carburetor and a tuned exhaust thrown in for good measure). Readers’ Rides: 1997 Suzuki Savage Cafe Racer Yes, that was the year I led the pack at the Georgia Isle of Man and all was well in our universe. But such goodness could not remain. For next year the blight of the Groms descended upon the rally and brought forth their overpowered 125cc four-strokes! It was their superior torque wrought from that evil displacement that on the return climb up to Suches and the finish line wrenched victory from me in this so-called “fun run”! Nevertheless, I vowed to beat them at their own game and not by using the devil’s tricks. There would be no blasphemy by the affixing of a larger displacement motor robbed from an unclean host and never intended for my spindly NS. Nay, for I was a man of the small-bore and his lowly displacement. Hypocrisy would not be my path. Instead, I swore to the heavens above (Do I have Burn’s attention yet?) to smote them as David did Goliath [Yes, “smite” is present tense – JB] through my faith in 50cc parts and their performance accessories. Yea, for so was the spirit of the original rally in the olden days. Thus, with the patience of Job and three long summers lost in the machine shop upon Mount Sinai, I emerged with a twin-cylinder NS50F utilizing two 72cc big bore kits, two 24mm flat-slide Mikuni carburetors, and two tuned exhausts. I dubbed this Leviathan the mighty Honda NS144F Magnum! Due to my faith in the almighty milling power of Bridgeport and the dial caliper of Starrett this beast produced near 18 powers of the horse where once she gave perhaps seven. The secrets of mine creation through crankshaft coupler, the combination of two engine cases, and the linkage of two counterbalancers is not to be revealed. This time shall come in the form of a revelation or email if said party cares to know further what transpired those three summers when I was lost in the wilderness of the land of Bridgeport, Hendey, and Starrett… Well, we know we’re curious to hear more, but this is Readers’ Rides, so we thought we’d let the readers decide. Leave a comment below if you’d like to see the rest of the story. We’re suckers for nice photos and descriptive words and reasonably decent pics of your favorite motorcycle, or maybe just your most memorable one for all the wrong reasons? Send yours to contact@motorcycle.com, title it “Readers’ Rides,” and see yourself in this spot one of these weeks. The post Readers’ Rides: 1990 Honda NS144F appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

The spiritual heirs of the Bimota Tesi are still at work over there on the Adriatic coast, in Italy, creating their own Vyruses in spite of the corona one. This latest hub-steered creation, in the works for nine years, uses an all new HWSS (Hydraulic Wired Steering System) in yet another valiant effort to overcome the limitations of the telescopic fork. Ducati has supplied 20 special Superquadro 1299 engines, which we suppose means 20 Alyens will be built. The price, Vyrus says, is “not available.” I didn’t really need to be told. The press release is almost as fun to read as the bike itself, just like being in Italy! Vyrus Alyen 998 Press Release: Vyrus is a positive affection, it has been since its first creation: infusing art into technology to build motorcycles and igniting the passion in those who marry our philosophy. Alyen is the latest creature, a condensate of knowledge acquired in 35 years of activity and a history lived in the land of motors, right in her heart, at the center of the world! In this historical moment we all need a contagion of passion and love. Design The idea it’s a sketch of Adrian Morton that Ascanio Rodorigo develops with Yutaka Igarashi (Japanese designer) in 57 different versions in a span of 9 years, an infinite gestation for the intrinsic complexities of the project. The perfect idea for the layout of a motorcycle with indirect steering and double swingarm! A demanding challenge due to the particular arrangement of the components, a game of structures suspended in nothingness that represent more a creature of the future rather than a motorcycle. A complex coordination work of the Technical Office with the Vyrus Design Department for the prototyping and putting on road of the futuristic prototype. The revolution concerns concept of prototyping itself, intended as a process of the activities to be carried out to obtain the final product. Not a single gram of clay was modeled (a type of material that is used for modeling forms in the automotive sector), as there is no conceptual basis on which to structure a motorcycle. Where to place all the components? The appearance of a creature from other worlds with a central body of important dimensions, developed in three-dimension in contrast to a conventional motorcycle. The animal’s head protrudes cantilevered completely detached from the body and contains the steering system HWSS (Hydraulic Wired Steering System) a mechanism developed by Vyrus that combines two steel cables tied to the ends of the handlebar and connected respectively to the sides of the wheel. The cables are sealed in a special sheath with a special fluid based on nano particles inside which, like a hydraulic piston, push the movement of the wheel while maintaining a comfortable and safe driving feeling, included a steering damper simulation of sensibility. The system itself is redundant and even if an element breaks, its opposite is able to perform the functions in the exact same way. The most fascinating aspect of the steering system is that when sitting in motion there are no elements interposed between the handlebar and the front wheel. It should be emphasized that observing the motorbike in profile there are many completely empty spaces between the handlebar and the wheel, the steering works in “remote control”, a completely new aspect in a motorcycle, a novelty in design and technology at the same time. The saddle, hand-sewn on a carbon base, consists of two separate elements that cover an appendix structure of the central body in magnesium; together with its components it gives the idea of a very thin element where the pilot sits, and looks like unable to support a weight. The main aspect of the seat is that the saddle is very low, this allows the riding of Alyen really to anyone without necessarily being expert motorcyclists, as usual in the previous Vyrus models. The ground clearance is only 800mm!!! Engine Alyen is equipped with the Superquadro 1299 Ducati that our friends at Borgo Panigale have assembled specifically for Vyrus in 20 units. A powerful engine, over 200 horsepower and an undisputed personality, the right heart of an extreme vehicle in form and content. The engine is equipped with two electronically controlled “Ride by Wire” motorized throttle bodies. The water-cooled twin cylinder fits perfectly with the Omega frames made of Magnesium alloy. The electronics push the vital functions into the Euro 5 configuration. An inertial platform provides for regulating the delivery and controls its stability. The gearbox has an electronic device for engaging gears without the aid of the clutch when sports driving requires it. Frame Magnesium is the alloy of the future, its characteristics are notoriously extraordinary, it is very light and rigid at the same time and allows a weight saving of up to 30% compared to the same shapes made of light aluminum alloy. It is a fascinating metal, very delicate but at the same time it becomes very reliable once treated with the correct technologies. In the past, magnesium was vulnerable to external agents such as UV rays or humidity. Today there are technologies that allow to guarantee their integrity “for life” and Vyrus has been able to research and find the appropriate technical solutions. Omega frames, anchoring beams, as well as footrests and footpeg supports, the connections of the anti-dive system of the front head, the radiator supports, the shift lever and also rear brake levers are made of magnesium. All the details are obviously designed in Vyrus where the masks for machining and the CAM paths of the control machines are also made; they are built by mechanical processing internally in Vyrus. An internal chain of the highest level, fundamental for total production control and quality. The front swinging arm, the rear single arm and the central body (the one where the tank is traditionally located) are also built in Magnesium. In this case they are made by sand-casting. An ancient procedure but made with modern technologies. This has allowed to create the desired shapes and give the rough appearance of the objects which gives the surfaces an appearance really similar to the “creature’s skin”. Every aspect has been designed and studied to transform the “machine” into a living being from another universe, typical of Vyrus “organic engineering architecture”. The body of the machine is a carbon fiber casing which encloses the tanks in the two side bellies and the radiator in the upper central part. The body is a load-bearing structure made by layering various layers in resin- impregnated fabric which is cooked in an autoclave at 120 degrees C. The final layer of the composite is in unidirectional fabric (UD), that is an infinite series of centesimal thickness filaments all arranged in one direction. Arranging these layers in various directions allows a control of the resistance of the piece, calculated according to the needs. Furthermore, the final UD surface has an absolutely unique visual aspect, very elegant, it looks like a refined wood grain. The expertise, needed to make UD structures, it’s superfine and not easy to make, this contributes to enhancing the product. Carbon also makes a leap forward in style here. Suspension Vyrus typical push-rod suspension has been developed in a further step thanks to the use of a new device. A Swedish manufacturer has a shock absorber in the catalog, the TTX 40 MK “thru rod”, characterized by the particular configuration of the stem that slides inside the body of the suspension unit. In practice it works as a steering damper. This allows not to influence the behavior of the shock absorber because there is no air tank that is usually inflated to 12 atmospheres and pushes AGAINST the shock absorber piston. In this case the pressure is the same on both sides of the hydraulic piston with significant advantages over the control of the ground response of the tires. The adjustable connecting rods and support rockers are made of Ergal 7075. Exhaust system From the engine comes two primary collectors of 60 mm and they enter a so-called compensation container. The container is formed in the upper part by an aluminum alloy cover totally made by milling. The cover contains the couplings of the two primary inlet manifolds and a separation labyrinth capable of fragmenting the sound as the gases advance inside. In the middle of the labyrinth are located the exhaust valve and the Lambda probes. All worked in a painstaking way for a thickness of 3 mm on the entire surface. The lower lid is screwed to this, a fine craftsmanship, consisting of a trapezoidal-shaped parallelepiped in 1 mm thick stainless steel sheet, folded by hand and TIG welded without adding material to maintain a uniform thickness in order to avoid breakage: sheet metal contains a further and smaller sheet inside which serves to retain a layer of soundproofing material between them. This simulate a real silencer. Finally, the two tubes emerge from the upper semi-finished product, which make up the aesthetic part of the exhaust, extending to the saddle and covered by a carbon protection (also in UD) which also acts as a rear mudguard as well as an aesthetic / functional element of the vehicle. Wheels and brakes For the Alyen project, ROTOBOX has created a special series of composite wheels of exceptional workmanship and technical characteristics, as well as the avant-garde look. In perfect Vyrus style, the 10 spokes, only 5 mm thick, and the extraordinarily low weight; it houses a Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP V3 120/70 ZR17 with a 3.5 ”channel at the front and a 6” channel for a Diablo Supercorsa SP V3 200-60 ZR 17 at the rear. For Brakes there are two different options, one foresees the application of a set of Carbonceramic 320mm discs, the other possibility for the very light and performing “low track” Brembo T-drive 320 mm disc derived from the SBK as well as the Brembo GP4 RR P4 caliper 32/36 Monobloc CNC is a point of reference in Motorsport. At the rear, the 245 mm Brembo brake disc braked by the Brembo caliper SS P2 43 CNC. For the handlebar controls, Brembo supplies the beautiful Radial RCS “Corsa Corta” brake and clutch pump which, in addition to being a product of very high performance, has added value in its modern design. All enslaved by the standard Anti-Locking System. Controls and Lights The handlebar controls of functions are made with the numerical control, machine (CNC) from solid. The handlebar, an engineering masterpiece, hides all the oil pipes and electrical cables inside, has the function of controlling the transmission of motion to the steering cables. Its complex shape is designed to support the multiple applications it is aimed at, also the result of the design of the technologies that Vyrus had to develop for Alyen. Made from a solid block in Ergal (light alloy of extraordinary quality) and worked with the CNC. The handlebar is housed in the “proboscis” of the composite body as well as the dashboard, the COBO Truckontrol whose screen with TFT technology has been graphically designed specifically for Alyen. The lighting system consists of two mini LED spots for the high beam and low beam an integrated part of a luminous insert that acts as a daylight. On the back a small position / stop light integrated in the license plate holder. This element is also made of composite, designed to resist vibrations and assist the elements as side indicator devices, lights, plate and relative anchors. The design of the license plate / arrows support is designed to be “invisible” and integrate into the shapes and objects of the rear axle. Technical specifications Engine type: 1285 cc Ducati 4 L-shaped 90° Desmo drive Bore x stroke: 116 x 70.8 mm Compression ratio: 12,6: 1 Lubrication system: forced gear pump Cooling system: Watercooled Gearbox: 6 speed, wet clutch Power: 205 cv @ 10.500 rpm Front suspension: Push Rod Twin Pivot Vyrus Rear suspension: Push Rod Twin Pivot Vyrus Frame: Magnesium omega design combined self-supporting composite Body Steering System: Vyrus Hydraulic Wired Steering System Caster angle: 17° to 25° Trail: 84 mm to 111 mm Wheelbase: 1575 mm Front tire: 120/70 ZR 17 Rear tire: 200/60 ZR17 Fuel tank capacity: 11 lt Total weight: 165 kg on the road without fuel Price: Not Available The post The Latest Vyrus is the Alyen 998 appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

It had been a minute since I’d used any Fly Racing gear off-road when the Kinetic Shield gear set arrived in the mail. Pulling the jersey, pants, and gloves out of their packaging, I really liked the black on black graphics, but if you’re not into it, there are also a handful of other color options in this model. Price-wise, the Kinetic Shield gear comes in around mid-level for the Fly Racing lineup and on the budget-friendly end of the spectrum when considering all of the other gear sets on the market. Obviously, everything integrates and looks great together. As B. Jaswinski used to say, “Look good, feel good, ride good”. What really sealed the deal for me with the Fly gear though was the fit. Let’s take a look at each piece of the Fly Racing Kinetic Shield gear set separately. Fly Racing Kinetic Shield Jersey The Kinetic Shield Jersey is made up of two fabrics. The majority of the jersey is a tightly knit fabric, that despite my best efforts, has remained almost entirely unscathed after being worn while navigating tight cactus-flanked single-track in Mexico and narrow sandy washes in the California desert lined with plants that I’m sure gave humans the inspiration for concertina wire. In fact, the most wear the jersey is showing after numerous days of abuse is the rubbing from my hydration pack, and that’s only on the more breathable looser-woven sections up the sides of the torso that extend up under the arms. The Kinetic Shield jersey is one of the warmer jerseys that I have due to the main material, but it has also held up better to the constant barrage of thorned devil-plants I find myself plowing through than any other jersey I’ve used so far. The fit is slightly loose. These days it seems motocross gear has gotten tighter and tighter, both pants and jerseys. The Fly Racing Kinetic jersey fits pretty neutrally. If you wear a medium t-shirt, the medium jersey should fit well, and you’ll be able to wear an armor jacket (most of the time I use the Alpinestars Bionic Pro Jacket) underneath it. That is to say, the jersey even fits slightly large, particularly if you’re not wearing pads underneath. The opening for your cabeza is plenty large enough and will help keep you cool on warm days. Shop for the Fly Racing Dirt Kinetic Shield Jersey here Fly Racing Kinetic Shield Pants When I first pulled on the Fly Racing Kinetic Shield pants and they slipped effortlessly over my admittedly large Asterisk knee braces, I was sold. Almost every other off-road pant that I own takes some effort to get over my knee braces as well as taking some time at the beginning of each ride to get the fabric broken back in around them, some more than others. The Kinetic Shield is the only pair that does not bind whatsoever and is immediately comfortable. I appreciate the fact that Fly Racing hasn’t followed the extra tight trend with its entire product line like many others have. I typically wear a 32×30 in most jeans and the size 32 pant fits perfect. Aside from fitting great, there’s a ton of attention to detail that make the Kinetic Shield pants function great out on the trail. One of the bits that add to great mobility are the stretch panels found on the inner thighs, outer thighs, above the knees, and just above the seat. These panels and the laser cut holes throughout also help the pant ventilate a considerable amount of air. Fastening the Kinetic Shield pants can take a little longer if you choose to use the “zipper lock” – a Velcro hook and loop system that covers the zipper at the top to ensure it stays in place while closing the ratchet strap. A fairly long ratchet closure secures the pants and gives more adjustment than most. You’re also able to tighten the fit, if need be, with a single adjustment on the left side. A rubberized graphic is used on the inside of the waistband in the rear to help keep a tucked jersey in place. Like the jersey, these pants have withstood a lot of abuse, and every time I pull them out of the wash, they look like new. I have some visible scratches and wear marks where the knee braces rub, but nothing close to a hole or tear. The pants’ 900D construction is robust. There is some light padding on the front of the knees while the inner knee/calf area is lined with thick leather triple-stitched with Kevlar to help grip the bike and protect against heat. Shop for the Fly Racing Dirt Kinetic Shield Pants here Fly Racing Kinetic Shield Gloves I really dig the design of the gloves. I like the graphics going all the way down each finger. Aside from the aesthetic, they, too, fit well like the rest of the gear set. These gloves are on the tighter side, and the fingers seem a tad longer than other gloves I’ve tried. Still, the amount of stretch in both the fingers and across the back of the hand keeps them from being too constricting. As with most MX gloves, there is zero padding on the back of the hand. The palm is a Clarino-type fabric with a few reinforced areas which stretch all the way up the fingers and thumb. The pointer and index finger are also lined with silicone stripes to give extra grip at the levers. These are usually the first things to start peeling off, but I’ve only had a small piece come off on the left glove. I consider myself pretty picky about the way my gloves fit, both on the street and off-road, and these are my favorite pair. To sum things up, the Fly Racing Kinetic Shield gear fits great, not too tight, and not too loose. Everything seems to be holding up well through a substantial amount of abuse, and maybe even a tip over or two. With those two things being most important, it also helps that it looks good. Getting to use this gear will definitely have me looking at the Fly Racing catalog next time I need a refresh. Shop for the Fly Racing Dirt Kinetic Shield Gloves here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post MO Tested: Fly Racing Kinetic Shield Gear Set appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

[Our Canadian MO compatriot, Justin Mastine-Frost, gives us his perspective on the Yamaha XSR900. Since he can’t shoot photos and ride simultaneously, we’re providing the photos from our Yamaha XSR900 Corral shootout. – EB] Getting some ride time with the Yamaha XSR900 took a fair bit of planning, between some personal scheduling issues and internal delays in getting the bike from Yamaha Canada, and by the point everything came together my eagerness to get out and ride the ‘neo-retro’ naked was at its peak. We first ran a review of the bike back in 2016, and it seemed that just about everyone I spoke to gave the mean middleweight reasonably high praise. I’d already taken a shine to the current MT-07, and at a conceptual level the XSR ticked all the boxes to be a new personal favorite – modern running gear, retro styling, upright posture, a torquey powerplant, and sharp suspension tuning. The challenge with expectation is always the same. So, the question is, did it live up to the hype (and where did Yamaha make improvements over its 2016 sibling)? You’ll note a color scheme difference between the bike we rode and the 2020 offering – the sole update came in the form of a slightly altered paint scheme. While the ’19 models were available in grey and red, fitted with black wheels and a black front fender, Yamaha has shifted to another retro-themed combo of white and red, adding a red front fender and contrasting gold wheels. The Looks Looking at the XSR, I’m really on the fence as to whether or not the XSR900 has aged well (or will) since its launch in 2016. The whole retro-cafe bike scene is still booming, though the market seems to be pushing in the direction of scramblers. But the more I look at the countless players in the ‘retro bike’ field – from this XSR, to the Ducati Scrambler, to the Suzuki SV650X Cafe – I can’t help but think we may one day look back at these the same way we do the PT Cruiser, the Plymouth Prowler, or the godawful Ford Thunderbird reboot of 2002. Ok, maybe that’s a bit harsh, and when compared to some of its counterparts, the XSR900 is fairly subdued in design. It’s a classic and simple profile, and from most angles, it’s a fine and understated bike. However, it’s in dire need of a tail tidy (deleting the goofy high brake light), and a stripping of those useless (albeit well made) brushed aluminum brackets for its headlight and below the seat. It’s details like these that make someone imagine a bunch of product planners sitting around the room going “But how do we hammer home the point that it’s Neo-Retro? I know, let’s make some brackets!” While we’re on the topic, the retro-for-the-sake-of-retro headlight on the XSR900 certainly looks the part, but leaves room for improvement once you’re out on a dark sideroad without street lamps. The Ride Throwing a leg up and over the XSR900, I’m immediately in familiar territory. The posture is upright and neutral, much in the same vein as Yamaha’s MT models (maybe a hair more upright). With my being 6-feet, 1-inches tall and mostly leg, the peg position works reasonably well for my lanky frame. Between its slipper clutch, traction control, and trio of ride modes, dialing into the right comfort zone for your riding style is relatively straightforward, though I’d be remiss to call this thing “idiot proof.” If anything it’s the kind of bike that’ll teach you a lesson or three real quick. The crossplane crankshaft concept three-banger is fast-revving and makes no qualms of putting its 115hp and 65 lb-ft of torque down in a hurry. Ride along in Standard mode for a while and keep the traction control engaged, and you’ll note it still takes very little effort to get the nose feeling weightless when taking off from zero. Bump up to the more edgy ‘A’ setting, or take the traction control down a notch, and it immediately starts living up to its wheelie machine title. Though the bike entirely deserves to be dubbed a bit of a wolf in sheep’s clothing, it’s by no means a purebred hooligan bike. Rather, much like the MT-07 and MT-09, it’s an extremely liveable ride, that just so happens to have the ability to dial up real speed with very little adjustment. A lack of wind protection keeps it from being a real long-haul ride, but a standard-length commute or a good afternoon cruise are comfortable and effortless whether on the highway or blasting through city traffic. That said, I’ll take any opportunity I can to spend a day out on this thing with access to smooth winding roads. Once you’ve gotten a proper handle on its throttle response it’s (relatively) easy to mitigate taking the weight off its nose when launching out of a corner, and its assisted clutch makes life easy for banging through downshifts should the aforementioned corner sneak up on you. The Competition This is an interesting one, because there are a handful of obvious players to consider. On the one hand the slightly less retro and more forward- leaning CB1000R tries to play the same game as Yamaha, and while it wins out by being bigger, more powerful, and more aggressively tuned, the Honda loses a bit of its momentum and enjoyment when ridden at a normal pace. Flip the coin over, and you’ve got the Kawasaki Z900RS (or my personal favorite, the Cafe version). The Kawi is a more hefty and low-tech feeling bike by comparison, and while it’s still a treat to ride, it doesn’t benefit from the same modern retro feel of the XSR900. In a sense, between this trio the XSR lands as the third bowl of porridge in our little goldilocks conundrum. Some might like things a little hotter or cooler, but there’s nothing wrong with landing square in the middle, all while coming in at a sticker price that’s lower than either extreme ($9,499). 2020 Yamaha XSR900 Specifications MSRP $9,499 Type 847cc liquid-cooled inline 3-cylinder Bore and Stroke 78.0mm x 59.1mm Fuel System Yamaha Fuel Injection with YCC-TY Compression Ratio 11.5:1 Valve Train DOHC; 4 valves/cylinder Transmission 6-speed; slip/assist clutch Final Drive Chain Front Suspension 41mm inverted fork, adjustable preload and rebound damping; 5.4-in travel Rear Suspension Single shock, adjustable preload and rebound damping; 5.1-in travel Front Brake Dual 298mm discs; ABS Rear Brake 245mm disc; ABS Front Tire 120/70-ZR17 Rear Tire 180/55-ZR17 Rake/Trail 25.0°/4.1 inches Wheelbase 56.7 inches Seat Height 32.7 inches Curb Weight 436 pounds Fuel Capacity 3.7 gallons The post 2020 Yamaha XSR900 Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Nope, this is not a First Ride review. Yes, I’m annoyed too. But hey, COVID-19 is affecting everyone in different ways. I won’t whine about not getting to ride new motorcycles for X number of weeks if you folks promise not to whine about, “Where’s the Ninja 1000 SX review!” I understand your anticipation, we feel the same way over here. When our comprehensive Ninja 1000 SX data dump (basically just a giant Kawasaki press release) was published last November during EICMA 2019, Kawasaki spilled all of the beans on the new model. Last week we had a “virtual press launch” which was a lot of fun. Unfortunately, there was no new information to publish since Kawi had already released it all. When that press release was posted on the site last Fall, the 2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 SX was one of the most popular motorcycles our readers were interested in during our 2019 EICMA coverage. Since we don’t anticipate Kawi opening its press fleet doors to the motorcycling media anytime soon, we (Evans) thought I’d distill down those previously posted 2,300+ words into a concise list of what’s actually new for 2020. Smooth Operator For 2020 Kawasaki has eschewed those pesky throttle cables in favor of an all-new ride-by-wire throttle. A new accelerator position sensor on the throttle negates the need for cables by working with the Electronic Throttle Valves (EVT) to ensure just the right mixture of air and fuel is sucked into the engine. The intake funnels have been revised so cylinders one and four now use 45mm shorter funnels to contribute to cleaner emissions while also matching the new exhaust layout. Kawasaki has now included four ride modes: Sport, Road, Rain, and Rider. The first three have preset power and traction control (KTRC) settings while the fourth, Rider, can be customized. All of that is fine and dandy, but what we’ve really been waiting to see on this sport touring machine is… CRUISE CONTROL. Yes, folks, it’s here. Thanks to the inclusion of the ride-by-wire throttle, cruise is easily set via the left switchgear. Nice Can In favor of a “sportier appearance” says Kawasaki, Team Green has chosen to use a single-sided muffler setup on the 2020 Ninja 1000 SX, a decision that dropped 4.4 lbs off the previous dual-can set up, we’re told. We now have a four-into-two-into-3-way catalyzer-into-one exhaust system. Whew. Say it with me y’all: Tee Eff Tee TFT haters can GTFO. This stunning new 4.3-inch display isn’t as big as others on the market, but the functionality and delivery of information still gets the job done. Two selectable display modes allow folks to prioritize the information they want to see. Users can also select from black and white background color or set the system to auto-adjust with ambient lighting. Riders are also now able to link up with their Ninja 1000 SX via Bluetooth through Kawasaki’s Rideology app. This sophisticated app lets you do all the things we’ve already talked about in the latest Versys 1000 SE LT +, Z H2, and Ninja 650 reviews. As far as information available on screen, bullet points seem more efficient: Digital speedometer Digital bar-style tachometer Gear position indicator Shift lamp Fuel gauge Odometer Dual trip meters Current and average fuel consumption -Remaining range Average speed -Total time Coolant temperature – Clock Battery voltage Kawasaki service reminder -Economical riding indicator Ride modes Lean angle Fresh Rubba’ The 2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 SX now comes with (hyper)sporty Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S22. Kawi says the tires, “contribute to lighter handling, while offering enhanced grip in both dry and wet conditions.” But you don’t have to take their word for it! Check out Evans Brasfield’s comprehensive S22 review where our leading man put down more laps than any other journalist around the legendary Circuito de Jerez in Spain to ensure a thorough test of what they have to offer. [Yeah, right. – EB] All the small things They add up. There are a handful of other changes that will likely address some of the complaints riders have had about the Ninja 1000 for the past few years. For example, EvB mentioned to me on the phone that the previous gen was a bit of a “ball buzzer” to some that might sound kind of nice, to others not so much. Kawasaki has addressed this issue by replacing the seat’s padding with a denser urethane. Furthering the mission of quelling those unwanted vibes, “dampers” of some sort have been added under the seat as well. We’re always happy to see quickshifters included because we’re lazy. The 2020 Ninja 1000 SX now comes off the showroom floor with a quickshifter capable of clutchless shifting up and down. We’re also told Kawi has added a “slit” to the fork internals, “A low-speed slit added to the damping pistons helps relieve negative pressure build-up during compression, resulting in smoother damping feeling”. Other small details such as revised fairing pieces here and there add to less wind fatigue for the rider as well as better cooling for the 1,043cc inline Four underneath. Slight changes have even been made to the camshaft profiles to reduce tappet noise. That covers the major changes of the 2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 SX. If you’re looking to take it all in though, the looooong press release from Kawasaki can be found here. Of course, if you want to get an idea of how the motorcycle rides as a whole, take a look at Evans’ review of the 2017 model. Much of the engine and chassis has remained unchanged so perhaps that will quench your thirst until we can get our filthy mitts on one to flog and report back. The post 2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000SX Second Look appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

I credit my early foundations in motorcycling to my beloved Suzuki SV650. Like with any sport, you need to learn the basics before you can progress to the more advanced stuff, and while my motorcycling career progressed on a number of different motorcycles over the years, my foundation was solidly built on my humble little SV. In the early days of my moto-journo career, the glitz and glamour of being able to ride other people’s motorcycles persuaded me that I really didn’t have a need for my SV anymore. And so, I let it sit, for 11 years, at my friend’s shop in the Florida panhandle. As a thank you to my friend, I basically handed him the keys to the bike and let him do with it as he pleased. Over that decade-plus, parts were pillaged off the bike to help other SVs continue down the road. Then, eventually, it was forgotten and left to rot. Thank goodness it was indoors, at least. My SV, just days after I bought it, circa 2004. Not much of that bike is left, sadly. Though I do still have the front wheel around here, somewhere, for some reason. Fast forward a bit and I’m starting to feel nostalgic. These new bikes are great and all, but I can’t deny how complicated modern motorcycles have become. One of the reasons I bought the SV in the first place is because it’s so simple. I even opted for an early, first-gen SV instead of the later, fuel-injected ones, because it has carburetors (and because I liked the way it looks better). Talk about simple. Frankly, I missed the ‘ol SV. So, I decided it was time it came back home. If you’ve been reading MO for a while, then you might remember the tale of getting my Suzuki SV650 shipped back to me from Florida. Those years weren’t kind to the poor SV either, as parts got stripped and whatever remained got subjected to the cruel fate that is being stuck in Florida for over a decade. Barber Motorsports Park, 2007. The last time I rode it. You can see the bike went through quite the transformation in just the three years since I bought it. It’s now been 18 months since I got the bike back in its battered and tattered state. I said at the time I was going to bring the bike back to life in my spare time, and a few of you have even asked about an update. Well, I basically don’t have spare time anymore with a young family at home. So, I sent the bike and a bunch of spare and/or replacement parts I scrounged up to Wrench Motorcycle Service to put back together. Unfortunately, the shop owner recently decided to go a different direction with the business, closing the service side to focus on other projects. So, the SV is far from done. However, it’s a lot farther along than I ever could have accomplished in this time. And best of all – it runs! Being a track-only bike, and with the world basically shut down due to Coronavirus, I have yet to ride it. But (some of) you wanted an update, and here it is. Before: After: So what’s changed? Starting at the front, the old, rotted tires were replaced with Pirelli’s Supercorsa TD tire – one of my personal favorites. Eagle eyes might notice the front end doesn’t look like a normal SV front. Correct! The complete front end conversion (fork, triples, wheels, calipers) comes courtesy of a 2004 GSX-R600 – the first year it had an inverted fork and radial brake calipers. The conversion itself was incredibly simple, as it’s basically a plug-and-play swap other than exchanging some headstock bearings. The forks are also about 20mm shorter than the stockers, reducing trail slightly, but I don’t remember it being a problem. I never worried about a speedometer either, since the bike was going to live at the track. Actually, the conversion was done a long time ago, but it’s worth pointing out in the odd chance anyone actually reading this isn’t familiar with the SV. The only change I made was replacing the original warped rotors with these wave discs and swapping the stock master cylinder with a Brembo unit which, I’m ashamed to admit, I don’t remember anything about. Had I to do it over again I probably would have kept the stock forks and upgraded the (crappy) internals and brakes. Many race classes don’t allow fork conversions, meaning this bike is bumped up to different classes where it would be less competitive. It’s kinda strange this rule still exists today since these forks (even if you upgrade the internals) don’t provide that much of an advantage. But young me was vain and liked the bling factor, so here we are. Before: Remember these gross brake calipers? Mother Nature tried its best to reclaim them. After: After getting rebuilt, the stock Tokico calipers work just fine. And they look good as new also with this fresh coat of black paint. The Business End: There’s a lot packed into the above photo. Beyond the new tire and brake caliper rebuild, a new bikini fairing and belly pan were sourced from Sebimoto in the Czech Republic. These were chosen for a few reasons. First, because I had this exact same bodywork on the bike when it was put into storage all those years ago. Second, I like the minimalist design that closely mimics the stock bodywork instead of other aftermarket fairings that cover the entire side of the motorcycle. Third, and maybe most importantly, it was actually cheaper for me to purchase these fairings and have them shipped from the Czech Republic than order a set of fairings domestically – with a design I didn’t even like. As anyone who’s installed cheap bodywork can tell you, the price you pay for those fairings may not be monetary, but it comes back to bite you during installation. The nose fairing wasn’t terribly difficult, as both the stock fairing tabs and new bodywork only needed minor persuasion to line up, but since the SV didn’t come with a belly pan originally, custom mounts had to be made. Again, not terribly difficult, as a few strips of metal stock bolted to existing locations works just fine, but it wasn’t until after installation that we looked at the pan and thought it looked pretty low. Then I remembered my original belly pan from a decade ago would severely drag on the ground at even moderate lean angles. The “fix” was to clearance the pan around the front cylinder exhaust header to help install the pan a little higher. We’ll see how much this actually helps the dragging problem. Windscreen One of the perks of this job is being able to ride a wide variety of motorcycles. This variety has helped me realize the beauty of a large bubble for the rider to tuck into. And what better to create a huge bubble than… a touring windscreen. A flip through the Zero Gravity catalog discovered this touring screen specifically for SV650s, and a call to their offices revealed they only had one more left in stock. That made the purchase decision pretty easy. Here the water spots help illustrate just how tall the screen rises – the standard screen terminates just above the Zero Gravity sticker. Gas Tank In the SV community, finding a gas tank without a dent in it is like finding the holy grail. The thing about SVs of this vintage, however, is they never came in white. In case you’re not picking up what I’m putting down, the tank you see here has had some work done. This tank was found on Ebay with a few dents, but none too bad. It was repaired and repainted anyway. Hellooo Bondo… Engine No carbs, no airbox, no fuel tank. This is what I was working with when I got the bike back. Thankfully none of the cables, wires, or linkages were destroyed or mangled when everything was removed. If you look at the before photo at the top of the page you’ll notice there’s a lot of things missing, including the stock airbox and carburetors. Back in the day, I rejetted the stock carbs for a little better performance, and enlarged the stock airbox opening for a little better air flow. I did all that because I couldn’t afford the upgrade I really wanted: flat slide carburetors. Specifically, the Keihin FCR series carbs. Compared to the CV (Constant Velocity) carbs the SV originally came with, the main advantage of the FCR carbs is a direct relation between the throttle and the slide. With CV carbs, turning the throttle opens a valve, which then moves the slide (an oversimplification). FCR’s not only give a direct connection to the engine, they also add a little extra horsepower, but this advantage is primarily on the top end, making them ideal for a track bike. Not so much for a street bike. FCRs also don’t have a choke, so cold starts are a bit more involved. Typically going for around a thousand bucks a set, I couldn’t justify the cost. If you haven’t noticed by now, I’m cheap. I was perfectly content with grabbing another set of stock carbs until our pal Chris Redpath, proprietor of MotoGP Werks, found this set for a smoking price. Best of all, he said it was coming off another SV650 in California, meaning the jetting should be dialed. It was a deal I couldn’t pass up. The throttle linkages and necessary hardware to install the carbs onto the intake plenum weren’t part of the deal, however, and fabricating some of the parts was beyond my pay grade. This is where Wrench really came in handy, as fabrication is one of the shop’s specialties. A Domino double-pull throttle linkage was sourced, with the respective throttle cables fitted to each carb. Uni foam pod filters stick out the top and rest under the gas tank (no way I’m brave enough to run without air filters). Other than that, I’m thankful the engine itself was left unharmed. The obvious things like a change of oil, a new oil filter, new coolant hoses, and fresh coolant were done. A fresh battery later and the engine came roaring back to life again! Exhaust and Subframe I thought getting an exhaust for the SV would be a simple endeavour, and it was, except for the fact that I needed a full system, complete with headers. Finding a full system for a first-gen SV proved a little harder than I expected. Yet again, Ebay proved invaluable when searching for this stuff (although stupid me hadn’t yet discovered SV Facebook groups yet). I didn’t particularly care for the blue on this ART canister, but it was all I could find. And yes, I know it’s missing an exhaust hanger. Once mounted, the engine sounds loud and throaty, like a healthy V-Twin should. I didn’t realize it at the time, but the blue hue sorta matched the blue tail section I got for the SV several years ago. During my first go-round with the bike I came across an aluminum subframe someone was selling for dirt cheap because there was a hairline fracture on it. He was even including the tail section, too. So, I snatched it up. I didn’t know about TIG welding at the time, but thought for sure there was someone out there who could fix it. Turns out I was right. With the tail section removed, you can see how much smaller this aluminum subframe is compared to the steel stocker at the top of the page. Since I’m not carrying a passenger or luggage ever again on this bike, there’s no need for the big, sturdy stock subframe. So this piece saves a lot of unnecessary weight. I never got around to actually weighing the two, but just holding them reveals an obvious difference. Far From Done Earlier I mentioned this SV project is far from done, but the important thing at this stage is the fact the bike can fire under its own power! Now there are lots of little things to clean up or improve. The suspension needs rebuilding, the wiring harness will be reduced to its essential wires, I’d like more braking power, and I need to modify the seating position to raise me up on the bike some more. As it is, I feel like I’m sitting on top of the rear tire. From there, I’d be perfectly happy to ride it again! Does it need more power? Sure, but I’m actually happy where it’s at. It’s never been on the dyno, but I’d estimate it’s somewhere in the 70-75 hp range. Other than the FCR carbs and exhaust, it already has a set of camshafts. Short of opening the engine, there’s nothing else left to do. Besides, if I wanted power I would have bought something else. What an eyesore. However, the more I look at the bike, the more dirt and grime I find. Everywhere. It bugs me. Depending on how long we’ll be cooped up at home avoiding the Coronavirus, I might tackle more projects, like giving the bike a deep cleaning, installing a quickshifter, swapping the huge OEM instrument cluster for something more tidy, or even swapping the Honda CBR600F3 rear wheel I have on now (chosen for its 5-inch width vs. the stock SV’s 4.5-inch width, allowing 160-series tires to sit properly on the wheel without pinching) for a 5.5-inch GSX-R wheel and the tire options it provides. Maybe a slipper clutch is in the future, too. The possibilities are endless, which is the beauty of owning a 20 year-old Suzuki. Any mod worth doing has already been done. It’s just a forum click away. It already has a Honda CBR600F3 rear wheel. Maybe a GSX-R wheel is next? I’ll write an update on this project some day, which will hopefully include actually riding the bike. Just don’t hold your breath. The post Bringing A 20 Year-Old Motorcycle Back To Life appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 Suzuki Burgman 400Editor Score: 87.0%Engine 17.0/20Suspension/Handling 13.5/15 Transmission/Clutch 9.5/10Brakes 8.5/10 Instruments/Controls4.5/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 9.0/10 Appearance/Quality 8.5/10Desirability 8.5/10Value 8.0/10Overall Score87/100 It’s important to keep things in perspective; the coronavirus isn’t the first disaster to befall us and you know it won’t be the last. Well, I mean it could be… Wherever you live, you can probably find all kinds of things that have gone spectacularly tits up over the years in your own backyard. The bigger the town, the bigger the pile of massive cock-ups, as the English like to say. It’s a good word. Especially now that there’s no traffic, and we have motorcycles, why not let’s go visit? Our deepest condolences to those of you living in places where you’re not allowed to ride. (California is under stay-at-home orders as of March 19, but one of the exceptions reads: “So long as you are maintaining a safe social distance of six feet from people who aren’t part of your household, it is OK to go outside for exercise, a walk or fresh air.” We rode to the dam before the 19th, and for some of us, riding is exercise.) If you’ve seen Chinatown, you’ve already met William Mulholland in the character of Hollis Mulwray, the man who brought water to Los Angeles, which allowed it to become the home of some 58 billion people. Where he brought the water from, though, and the way he went about it, had a lot of residents from the Owens Valley area up north of LA, far from happy. Unhappy enough to dynamite the California Aqueduct closed now and then, which gave Mulholland the idea that a second large source of water for the growing metropolis would be a good idea. Thus, the St. Francis Dam in San Francisquito Canyon, 40 miles northwest of downtown LA. Let us blast out of the concrete jungle, muchachos… I’m going to borrow most of my information from Wikipedia (I made a small donation) because I don’t have days to read the books and archives that Wiki draws upon, but they’re out there if you want to dive deep. Heck, the Wiki entry itself is thousands of words… Credit: U.S. Geological Survey Water began to fill the St. Francis reservoir on March 12, 1926, and while the 185-feet tall dam had its share of leaks and cracks as the reservoir behind it filled, apparently it was nothing to worry about. “Of all the dams I have built and of all the dams I have ever seen, it was the driest dam of its size I ever saw,” William Mulholland would later say. Two years later, on March 28, 1928, the dam keeper noticed a new, bigger leak that seemed to be gnawing at the foundation of the dam. He called Mr. Mulholland, who drove up with his assistant Harvey Van Norman, and inspected the dam for two hours before deciding the new leak was nothing serious, the dam was safe. The pair drove back to LA. Lake Hughes Road and Bouquet Canyon are both excellent riding as well. We decided to schedule our own two-hour inspection. We used to tear around Bouquet Canyon and Lake Hughes a lot when there was only a monthly print magazine and no internet mouth to feed, but I don’t recall ever riding San Francisquito Canyon. The plan was to go up Angeles Crest (CA Hwy 2) and take the scenic route westward, but no sooner had we headed up there on a Saturday morning (there were a lot of bikes and sportscars out), than the CHP was turning traffic around at the bottom of the Crest. Bad crash? We should’ve gone Friday like the original plan. Wait. Do weekends still exist? I’m riding solo because somebody had to snap the photo. Note plenteous rider and passenger proportions. Photo by C. Rogers. But it barely mattered, because we had the 210 freeway to ourselves. Which was good, because I turned left instead of right on Sunland Boulevard and got lost and angry at my Google map for a while until I figured out somebody must’ve broken into my house overnight and turned off the cellular data. Once that was fixed, Google and my Cardo had us on our way. I suggest seeking out restaurants with outdoor seating, like the Ranch Side Cafe at the bottom of Little Tujunga Canyon up in Sunland, CA; we seem to be the only ones out lately, so staying six feet away from people is no problem. Note phone-charging cord hanging out of left glove box. Handy. Photo by C. Rogers. Now that’s a burrito… I had a Kawasaki Z900RS and a BMW F900XR in the garage too, but we needed to try out the Burgman 400’s long-distance chops. We’d already decided for around town, it can’t be beat. As it turns out, I’m really glad we hopped on it. I already own a nice little Suzuki soft cooler, which gives us the cachet of owning matching luggage. It’s just large enough for a few cans/water bottles and some snacks, and it fit perfectly under the seat, along with the other stuff people travel with, no luggage or backpack required: Also, 5-feet-zero Chrissy Rogers fits perfectly on the cushy back seat, which is way easier to climb onto than the Z900 or the BMW, and more comfortable. An apple a day keeps the pandemic away… the old road down to the dam site is just over the hump in the Burgie’s windscreen, not too far a walk. Suzuki says two helmets will fit in the 42-liter trunk, but we don’t believe them. Helmet hooks would be nice, since your trunk usually is already full; we wound up carrying ours. (Correction! There is one helmet hook up front near the seat’s hinge.) Even after two hours up the freeway and being lost, neither of us had any comfort complaints. Cruising at 80 or 85 mph on the Burgman, with its tachometer registering 8500 rpm of a possible 9000, nobody felt any vibration. Top speed for two – about a 350-pound payload – is 90 mph, according to the speedo, on level ground. Perfect for SoCal freeways. Any slower is too slow when the freeway is empty like it is now during this hopefully once-in-a-lifetime event; any faster you’re itching for trouble, mister. There’s a 399 cc DOHC liquid-cooled engine sitting somewhere under the hood, and we’re told it’s derived from the long-running and rock-solid DR-Z400. The Burgie actually does sound a bit dirt-bikey coarse at first even if it never feels that way, but then you get used to it and enjoy brawwhping it around just like you would a DR-Z. It seems to enjoy the abuse, and Suzuki says its 5-liter airbox is tuned to sound “exciting.” 2018 Suzuki Burgman First Ride Review When they redesigned the scooter for 2018, it got bigger wheels (120/70-15 and 150/70-13), a stiffer frame and a bunch of other upgrades. Throw in a 41mm fork, link-type shock out back, triple disc brakes (with standard ABS) and you’ve got a pretty sweet-handling package – and not just for a scooter. Closer inspection reveals the cylinder head is right below the rider’s part of the seat, with the preload-adjustable rear shock parallel to the ground amidships. Seems like pretty good “mass centralization” but also retaining the typical excellent scooter low center of gravity. Along with nice new bodywork for 2018, the Burgman got LED lighting all around. That seat really is comfy, and the bolster adjusts back and forth about an inch. With 350 pounds of flesh and gear aboard, bump absorption and the ride seem right in the ballpark – and I didn’t bother to crank the rear preload up from the standard #3 of its 7 positions. In fact the rear feels just right with passenger and loaded trunk. Without the passenger, I think you could ride the Burgie really quick in the curves. With a passenger, you can still ride pretty quick. You can also just cruise along since the CVT auto trans does all the shifting. Do any scooters have cruise control? The only thing we both complained about was buffeting about the helmets at speeds above about 60 mph, but I could still listen to talk radio and hear Cardo directions inside my Shoei, with foam earplugs in. The aftermarket serves up all kinds of windshields and extensions to fix that turbulence. Where were we? O yeah, March 12, 1928, and another guy riding a motorcycle (history does not tell us the brand) up San Francisquito Cyn road after his shift had ended at Powerhouse Number 1 below the dam – just about 92 years ago, just before midnight: “There were no surviving eyewitnesses to the collapse, but at least five people passed the dam within the hour prior without noticing anything unusual. The last, Ace Hopewell, a carpenter at Powerhouse No. 1, rode his motorcycle past the dam about ten minutes before midnight. He testified at the Coroner’s Inquest that he had passed Powerhouse No. 2 without seeing anything there or at the dam that caused him concern. He went on to state that at approximately one and one-half miles upstream he heard above the roar of his motorcycle a rumbling much like the sound of “rocks rolling on the hill.” He stopped and got off, leaving the engine idling, and smoked a cigarette while checking the hillside above him. The rumble that had caught his attention earlier had begun to fade behind him. Assuming that it might have been a landslide, as these were common in the area, and satisfied that he was in no danger, he continued on.” The rumbling Ace had heard was the “sudden and complete” collapse of the main dam at 2.5 minutes before midnight (along with the fluttering of his guardian angel’s wings), which we know precisely because that’s the time the power went off downstream, and the time the water level plunged on the dam’s recording device. “The main dam, from west of the center section to the wing wall abutment atop the hillside, broke into several large pieces, and numerous smaller pieces. All of these were washed downstream as 12.4 billion gallons (47 million m³) of water began surging down San Francisquito Canyon. The largest piece, weighing approximately 10,000 tons (9,000 metric tons) was found about three-quarters of a mile (1.2 km) below the dam site.” This, then, was a plumbing problem on the grandest scale. On its way to the Pacific down the Santa Clara River, that massive wall of dirty water swept away the little California towns of Piru, Fillmore, Santa Paula, Saticoy and much of Ventura. More Wikipedia: “The exact number of victims remains unknown. The official death toll in August 1928 was 385, but the remains of victims continued to be discovered every few years until the mid-1950s. Many victims were swept out to sea when the flood reached the Pacific Ocean and were never recovered, while others were washed ashore, some as far south as the Mexican border. The remains of one victim were found deep underground near Newhall in 1992, and other bodies, believed to be victims of the disaster, were found in the late 1970s and 1994. The death toll is currently estimated to be at least 431.” This was the second-greatest loss of life in California history, surpassed only by the great 1906 earthquake in San Francisco. “The Tombstone” became an attraction for tourists and souvenir hunters. Credit: U.S. Geological Survey Credit: U.S. Geological Survey “In May 1929, the upright section was toppled with dynamite, and the remaining blocks were demolished with bulldozers and jackhammers to discourage the sightseers and souvenir hunters from exploring the ruins. The wing dike was used by Los Angeles firemen to gain experience in using explosives on building structures. The St. Francis Dam was not rebuilt, though Bouquet Reservoir in nearby Bouquet Canyon was built in 1934 as a replacement.” A short hike down the old road got us nearly to the old dam site, but we didn’t want to get Rog’s new boots wet so we turned around. Amazing how much trouble a little water can create. Powerhouse #2 is up and running again 1.5 miles south of the ex-dam, and the site of this plaque, dedicated 50 years later. What was left in the wake of the giant flood was the cleaning up and assigning of blame. William Mulholland had started out as a ditch tender for the Los Angeles City Water Company in 1878, who studied mathematics, hydraulics and geography after work, and taught himself engineering and geology. By 1911, he was Superintendent and Chief Engineer of the Bureau of Water Works and Supply, by which time he’d already designed and nearly completed the Los Angeles Aqueduct, the longest in the world at the time, still in use, and the thing that makes Southern California possible. He took complete blame for the disaster. “During the Inquest Mulholland said, ‘This inquest is a very painful thing for me to have to attend but it is the occasion of it that is painful. The only ones I envy about this thing are the ones who are dead.’ In subsequent testimony, after answering a question he added, ‘Whether it is good or bad, don’t blame anyone else, you just fasten it on me. If there was an error in human judgment, I was the human, I won’t try to fasten it on anyone else.’” Wiki: “The Coroner’s Inquest jury determined that one of the causative factors for the disaster lay in what they had termed as ‘an error in engineering judgment in determining the foundation at the St. Francis Dam site and deciding on the best type of dam to build there’ and that ‘the responsibility for the error in engineering judgment rests upon the Bureau of Water Works and Supply, and the Chief Engineer thereof.’ They cleared Mulholland as well as others of the Bureau of Water Works and Supply of any criminal culpability, since neither he nor anyone else at the time could have known of the instability of the rock formations on which the dam was built. The hearings also recommended that ‘the construction and operation of a great dam should never be left to the sole judgment of one man, no matter how eminent.’” Amen. In the grand scheme of things, 450 people aren’t all that many, unless you happen to be one of them. As I write this on the morning of 7 April, the Golden State’s suffered 387 deaths attributed to coronavirus. Cheer up, though. The St. Francis Dam disaster also passed, things got back to normal, and the 1920s continued to roar. Right up until a year later anyway: On October 29, 1929, the stock market collapsed and ushered in The Great Depression. No telling how many people that killed, but even it wasn’t all bad, since it got us the Hoover Dam and Las Vegas, a million Hitler documentaries, the M1 Garand rifle… The Hoover Dam is still standing, and it’s a great time to visit the outside of it; the inside of it is closed. Anyway it just goes to show you: It’s always something. Heck man, I’d ride the Burgie there if I had a different windscreen. Probably take the back way, though, since there’s no hurry lately. We decided this biggish little scooter (474 pounds wet is the claim) is kind of a poor person’s mini-Goldwing. We put 220 miles on it that day going to visit St. Francis, burning just about four gallons of gas – 55 mpg – and felt perfectly fine at the end of the day. It’s super nice for getting out of the house, while staying far away from the herd. God bless us, one and all. 2020 Suzuki Burgman 400 + Highs More convenient mini-Goldwing Goldilocks-sized There’s a DR-Z400 in there – Sighs Helmet locks would be nice Cruise control would be nice, but… Blustery windscreen is easily dealt with In Gear Helmet: Shoei Neotec 2 Splicer $799 Jacket: Aerostich Falstaff $667 Pants: Trilobite Parado Elastic Men’s Jeans $219 Gloves: Dainese Quanto 4-Stroke Evo $220 Boots: Sidi Arcadia Tex $179 2020 Suzuki Burgman 400 Specifications MSRP $8,299 Engine 399cc, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, single-cylinder, DOHC Bore x Stroke 81.0 mm x 77.6 mm Compression Ratio 10.6:1 Fuel System Fuel injection Starter Electric Lubrication Wet sump Transmission CVT (automatic, centrifugal clutch) Final Drive V-belt drive Front Suspension Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped Rear Suspension Link type, single shock, coil spring, oil damped Front Brakes Disc brake, twin 260 mm, ABS-equipped Rear Brakes Disc brake, single 210 mm, ABS-equipped Front Tires 120/70-15M/C (56S), tubeless Rear Tires 150/70-13M/C (64S), tubeless Fuel Capacity 3.6 gallons Ignition Electronic ignition (transistorized) Spark Plug NGK CR7EIA-9 or DENSO IU22D Headlight Dual LED (high and low beam, plus position lights) Tail Light LED Overall Length 88.0 inches Overall Width 30.1 inches Overall Width 53.1 inches Wheelbase 62.2 inches Ground Clearance 4.9 inches Seat Height 29.7 inches Curb Weight 474 pounds (claimed) Warranty 12 month unlimited mileage limited warranty Longer coverage periods with other benefits available through Suzuki Extended Protection (SEP). Color Metallic Matte Black No. 2 The post SoCal Distancing #1: Suzuki Burgman 400 to St. Francis Dam appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

In the midst of all the uncertainty and panic caused by COVID-19 and the hard times millions around the world have fallen upon, we thought we’d share some beauty created by French custom shop, FCR Originals. The shop has a penchant for turning British Twins, among other machines, into creative custom builds with styling cues that harken back to the ‘50s and ‘60s. As is evident from the pictures shared here, the level of detail and commitment to their projects is stunning. The shop has created custom builds from Triumphs and Nortons to Harley-Davidsons. Rather than starting from the ground up, building custom frames and whatnot, many of FCR’s bikes have stock foundations such as the bike above. That’s not to say the shop doesn’t strip the machines apart entirely when starting a project – note the nickel-plated shortened frame on the “Green Legend” build above. Projects like the Norton Commando 850 Mk 3 above, named Bucephalus after Alexander the Great’s horse, required a fair bit more work, engine and otherwise, to bring to its current glory. FCR Original is up to the task as they entirely rebuilt the engine with modern componentry and added premium Ceriani suspension to make the machine function better than before. Whether a build requires entirely new parts to be fabricated, or old parts to be refurbished, FCR can do it, using the latest in CAD technology to create anything they may need. Paint, welding, and manufacturing are all done in house. Their projects span from classic restorations to original creations and even race-ready builds. Since we’re all mostly supposed to be stuck inside, I’d suggest spending some time over at www.fcr-original.com to check out more of the shop’s creations with detailed images of each machine. Stay healthy, friends. The post FCR Original appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Gary Corde tells us about his eye-catching 1997 Suzuki Savage cafe racer: I’m happy to brag about my cafe racer. This bike started out life as a ’97 Suzuki Savage. The bike was an unloved and rusted basket case that I purchased to repurpose into a useful motorcycle. I began with a RYCA kit but quickly realized that RYCA didn’t go quite as far as I wanted to go. For example, rather than shorten the fork stroke via spacers to drop the front end, I made my own triple clamp so I could raise the forks, allowing me to retain full fork travel. The forks are fitted with RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators & springs, and I topped them off with adjustable preload fork caps. There are custom touches and solutions all over this motorcycle. But more importantly, the low weight (less than 300 pounds) and mechanical simplicity make this bike a joy to ride. It is motorcycling in its purest sense. I own several custom-concoction motorcycles, but this one strikes the right balance of looks, rideability, and fun. Readers’ Rides: Martin Adams’ Commonwealth Racing Norton We’re suckers for nice photos and descriptive words and reasonably decent pics of your favorite motorcycle, or maybe just your most memorable one for all the wrong reasons? Send yours to contact@motorcycle.com, title it “Readers’ Rides,” and see yourself in this spot one of these weeks. The post Readers’ Rides: 1997 Suzuki Savage Cafe Racer appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Therefore I say unto you, Be not anxious for your life, what ye shall eat, or what ye shall drink; nor yet for your body, what ye shall put on. Is not the life more than the food, and the body than the raiment? Behold the birds of the heaven, that they sow not, neither do they reap, nor gather into barns; and your heavenly Father feedeth them. Are not ye of much more value than they? And which of you by being anxious can add one cubit unto the measure of his life? And why are ye anxious concerning raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin: yet I say unto you, that even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these dang Suzuki Bandits. O ye of little faith in thy brand new crispy yellow Aerostich suit, Be not therefore anxious, saying, What shall we eat? or, What shall we drink? or, Where is the cruise control? For after all these things do the Gentiles seek; for your heavenly Father knoweth that ye have need of all these things. But seek ye first his kingdom, and his righteousness; and all these things shall be added unto you. Be not therefore anxious for the morrow: for the morrow will be anxious for itself. Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof. 2000 Suzuki Bandit 600S A New Twist on the Original LOS ANGELES, January 21, 2000 — When Suzuki first introduced the Bandit 600, a few people remarked about its simplicity and its retroactive, if not uninspired styling: “It’s too plain,” “It’s not a sportbike.” Suzuki never meant it to be a sportbike or be regarded as a hi-tech marvel. Bandit owners understand this and, in fact, are somewhat perplexed when they hear similar criticisms from non-Bandit owners. If you read the Bandit owner’s Internet mailing lists, you’ll find many Bandit owners are perfectly happy with their motorcycles, and they don’t understand why some fellow enthusiasts aren’t happy that they are happy. Nevertheless, the ball of progress rolls on and the GSF600S gets more then a face lift for the Y2K, perhaps resulting in raising the eyebrows of a few naysayers.The Fairing If you’re familiar with the previous iteration of the Bandit, then you’ll immediately notice something different: the fairing. Aside from being an aesthetic improvement, it is also said to increase wind protection while housing two projector beam headlights. A 51-watt low beam and a 60-watt high beam work to guide you through the murky embraces of the night. The low beam uses the left bulb only and it puts out a surprising bit of power for only one bulb. Unfortunately, because of the design of the projector beam, unless you’re looking directly at the headlight, there is not enough intensity behind it to catch the attention of motorists who are in traffic lanes directly adjacent to the bike. We noticed more than the usual number of LA freeway drivers cutting us off, and our own unscientific observations lead us to believe the headlight is a little difficult to see at a glance. Remember, however, many of these of cut-offs could easily be due to over-aggressive staff members, so take this observation more as anecdotal evidence than as Gospel. From certain angles the low-beam is difficult to see. Still, we thought it worth mentioning because we did our own experiment and with one staffer in a car and another on the Bandit 600S, and we feel that at night the Bandit’s low beam headlight is a little difficult to see in car mirrors from certain angles. We recommend that you ride with the brights on as much as possible. Even so, from the rider’s perspective the low beam’s illumination is more than adequate and the pattern it casts on the ground is very smooth with few irregularities. On the other side of the fairing is a new dash cluster. Equipped with stepper-motor powered dials, the speedometer and tachometer both set their limits when the ignition is initially activated, similar to the Hayabusa. The instrument lighting system is changed from incandescent bulbs to a light-emitting-diode system that draws less power while producing a similar amount of illumination. Another advantage is that LEDs do not burn out as readily as bulbs do. In fact, the LED should last as long as the motorcycle, if not longer. Also found on the speedometer is a new liquid-crystal display that features an odometer, twin-tripmeters and a clock. At slow speeds, the mirrors proved very effective. At higher speeds they vibrated. The Chassis The frame has been completely redesigned. Most noticeable is the straight top tube and bolt-on passenger footpeg brackets. For quicker steering, rake and trail have been reduced from 25.6° to 25.0° and from 103.6mm to 98mm respectively, while the wheelbase has been increased from 56.3 inches (1430mm) to 56.7 inches (1440mm) for stability. The front fork remains a 41mm non-adjustable piece, but the progressive spring rate was increased from 8.8 – 17.7 N/mm (Newton-meter per millimeter) to 9.81 – 19.62 N/mm with increased damping rates. Due to these new changes, Suzuki was able to reduce the oil level in each leg from 97mm to 112mm (measured from the top of the fork tubes) in order to keep fork performance as consistent as possible. Of course, the rear suspension was tweaked as well and the spring rate was increased from 62.7 N/mm to 107.87 N/mm with a slight increase in damping rates. Another addition to the shock is a free piston that separates the gas from the oil, allowing for consistent damping performance by keeping the oil at bay during aggressive riding. The rear shock features 7-way adjustable preload and 4-way adjustable damping. The Y2K Bandit 600S is an excellent commuting motorcycle. After adding all these go-fast goodies, Suzuki equipped the new Bandit 600S with new brakes. Dual Tokico 30.23mm dual-piston calipers replace the original 25.4mm Nissin units. The rear brakes have been upgraded to the same Tokico single-caliper found on the Hayabusa and the composition of the steel-sintered pad material has been changed. The Bandit features new 3.5 x 17 inch front and 4.5 x 17 inch rear rims as well as perhaps the single best upgrade — radial tires that use a 120/60 x 17 tire up front and 160/60 x 17 in the rear. With the use of the new 160 width tire, many more sport-oriented tires are available to the Y2K Bandit 600S rider. The Engine With the revised suspension and upgraded tires, cornering confidence has been improved. The engine receives the same pistons found on the Katana 600, allowing for an increased wrist lubrication area as well as a better ring design, both of which are said to improve sealing and reduce friction. To help keep these new pistons cool are larger oil jets that squirt more oil onto the bottoms of the pistons. To help push all this oil through the jets and refined oil passage ways is a new oil pump. The oil flow has been increased from 7.1 gallons/minute to 8.5 gallons/minute. Feeding the engine are new Keihin CVR 32mm carburetors with a throttle position sensor (TPS) that helps keep the ignition system in tune to what throttle setting the rider has set, thereby allowing the ignition system to adjust its map settings accordingly. The TPS, along with dual maps — one for cylinders one and four and another for cylinders two and three — allows the ignition system to optimize engine performance. Also new is the addition of a pulse-secondary air injection system (PAIR System) that is said to reduce toxic emissions by adding air to the exhaust to completely combust unburned fuel. The system is purported to reduce hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide emissions as much as 50 percent. In order to accommodate the new frame, the airbox had to be replaced. Thankfully this new unit is lighter and has more filter area. Also added is a fuel filter. The charging system has also been upgraded to a higher output alternator as well as a gradual start regulator to lessen voltage surges after high-draw situations. The Ride New steering geometry makes for a quicker handling Bandit. So, how does the Y2K Bandit 600S ride? Pretty good. In fact, the Bandit 600S is a vastly improved motorcycle. One of the issues that MO staffers had with previous Bandits was the amount of detectable buzz while riding at cruising speeds. While the previous Bandit 600 sent its buzz through the seat and bars, the new Bandit is much smoother, sending most of the vibration through the new fairing mounted mirrors. The original Bandit’s mirrors vibrated as well and, unfortunately, Suzuki hasn’t done much to curb this issue. Still, while it’s a mildly annoying trait, it’s not a fatal flaw. With the new spring and damping rates, the Bandit confidently carries you through a corner. Bandit v. Train The reduced trail and rake figures make for a quicker turning and more responsive motorcycle that is adept at strafing your local twisties. Although the bike is 15 pounds heavier, the updated geometry, suspension and tires help keep the weight gain from being noticeable. The engine is smoother and faster revving and aside from the aforementioned buzzing issue, the only other quirk that we could find with the motor is its somewhat anemic personality just after idle and at the top of its rev range. Even so, it pulled cleanly away when kept squarely within its power band and rewarded the rider with near supersport performance. Remember, that’s near supersport performance. The Bandit was never conceived to compete against the likes of true supersports like the GSX-R600. Bandit 1, Train 0 Where the Bandit truly shines is on the street. The Y2K Bandit 600S is an excellent commuting motorcycle. Its standard seating configuration and slightly rear set footpeg positioning gave our spirited staffers confidence while weaving through thick traffic congestion. However, while the upright handlebar worked well for traffic negotiation, highway cruising and the occasional mountain road, that same footpeg positioning felt awkward for our taller staffers. The new suspension, while harsher on the freeway then the previous version, kept the tires on the ground and performed better over the frequent potholes and surface irregularities common in most urban areas. Needless to say the front forks did experience brake dive, especially during hard braking conditions, but overall the suspension never bottomed out. Finally, a minor nit-pick we have is that although the windscreen is wider and taller, we didn’t notice any particular improvement in wind protection. However, that’s fine with us because the Bandit promotes wind-in-your face riding. Bandit cooling down after beating the train. While some might lump the Bandit into the “standard” category, there really aren’t many bikes sold in the U.S that fall into the niche of the traditional standard. Perhaps the Bandit 600S should be placed into a new category, maybe a super-standard or even an ultra-commuter. If there were indeed such market niches the Suzuki Bandit 600S would be the baseline, an affordable do-it-all motorcycle with an ample dose of style and personality. The Bandit 600S cruises the freeways and boulevards with ease while can satisfy even the most discriminating of sport riders with its easy handling and performance. No, it’s not going to burn up the local track, but so what. If you want to be the next CCS fast-guy, go buy a supersport and don’t forget to save your pennies for the very high insurance premiums. If you looking for an affordable, do-it-all commuter, then take a good look at the new, 2000 Suzuki Bandit 600S. Specification Manufacturer : Suzuki Model : Bandit 600S GSF600S MSRP : $5,799 Engine : 599cc, DOHC, 16 valve, air/oil cooled, Max. horsepower: 70.2 hp @ 10,200 RPM four-stroke, inline-4 Bore/Stroke : 62.6 x 48.7 mm Compression Ratio : 11.3:1 Carburetor : 4x Keihin CVK32 Ignition : Digital/Transistorized Transmission : 6-speed, 530 chain Overall Length : 2069mm (81.5 in.) Overall Width : 760mm (29.9 in.) Overall Height : 1218mm (48.0 in.) Seat Height : 800mm (31.5 in.) Ground Clearance : 135mm (5.3 in.) Wheelbase : 1433mm (56.4 in.) Dry Weight : 208kg (459 lbs.) Suspension, Front : 41mm, telescopic, oil damped Suspension, Rear : Link-type, 4-way adjustable rebound damping, 7-way adjustable preload Brakes, Front : Dual 290mm hydraulic discs Brakes, Rear : Single hydraulic disc Tires, Front : 120/60-ZR17 Tires, Rear : 160/60-ZR17 Fuel Tank Capacity: 20.0 liter (5.3 gal.) Color: Black, Red The post Church of MO: 2000 Suzuki Bandit 600S appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

BMW and KTM AG announced this week they will not be taking part in the industry’s two largest motorcycle shows due to the novel coronavirus pandemic. Intermot, in Cologne, Germany, and EICMA in Milan, Italy, are still months away, but the two European companies say there’s too much uncertainty to properly plan for the trade shows. Having two of Europe’s largest motorcycle manufacturers pulling out is a big blow to the two shows, especially for the biennial Intermot Show, seeing as BMW is the marquee German brand and KTM hails from a close neighbor in Austria. BMW and KTM (along with its sub-brands Husqvarna and GasGas) may not be the only manufacturers to withdraw either, as other brands are no doubt considering their options. As KTM puts it: “The proper planning of such events is currently at risk due to the uncertainty surrounding public gathering restrictions in most countries. The annual success of these indoor shows also sees hundreds of thousands of visitors gathering in enclosed spaces for a period lasting days and even weeks. For these reasons, KTM AG have identified their exclusion as way to contribute towards a safe and strong return to normal activity.” KTM’s withdrawal from the motorcycle shows also includes Husqvarna, which revealed its Norden 901 concept at EICMA last fall and was expected to show the final production version this year. The question, then, becomes whether the two shows should be held at all. Italy, in particular, has been hit hard by COVID-19, and the last thing officials want is to have a large international gathering converging in Milan, even if the show’s not until November. Germany hasn’t had as many coronavirus-related deaths, thanks in part to widespread testing and a crackdown on public gatherings, but it’s hard to see restrictions lifting enough to hold a show as large as Intermot. Just look at the photo above, from the 2018 Intermot show. Not exactly the poster for social distancing, is it? The pandemic has already forced the cancellation of the 2020 North American International Auto Show (a.k.a. the Detroit Auto Show) in June. The New York Auto Show has been moved from April to August, but considering its venue is currently serving as a makeshift hospital, that date seems optimistic. The motorcycle shows are held in the fall, but can we realistically expect manufacturers to be ready by then, with production halted and people working from home? While BMW has only announced its withdrawal from the two big shows, KTM says it will not take part in any trade shows at all for the rest of the year, instead asking organizers to move their events to 2021. “Trade shows are key business milestones for the entire motorcycle industry but given the situation, public health and the welfare of our staff are higher priorities over the coming months,” says Hubert Trunkenpolz, KTM’s chief marketing officer. “We have taken this course of action with a great deal of thought and, as a company, KTM AG would be pleased and interested if show promoters, EICMA in particular, would consider moving dates to 2021, where we hope and expect the situation to be settled and back to normal.” BMW, meanwhile, says it will hold its own product premieres in the fall via its digital channels, much like it did for the R18 launch today but on a larger scale. This isn’t entirely surprising, as in recent years, BMW has been launching some of its new products, like the ShiftCam R1250 models in 2018, ahead of the fall shows. An online launch event makes a lot of sense, especially when you remember that, as large as Intermot and EICMA are, only a small percentage of the motorcycle market actually attends the shows in person. Intermot organizers recently announced a new format for this year, with a new stage set up for live-streaming presentations. Ironically, Intermot has already been preparing for a strong online presence this year, announcing a new live-streamed presentation with manufacturers sharing the same stage instead of having their own launch events scattered around the show. The new Stage X platform was to include a large LED wall, a linked catwalk with a rotating turntable and set up for live streaming. According to Intermot organizers, BMW, Triumph and Honda had already confirmed they would be part of the show, and others were expected to join in. That may all be in jeopardy now, as manufacturers continue to withdraw or hold their own online presentations. BMW and KTM may be the first manufacturers to pull out of the motorcycle shows, but it’s likely a matter of time before the organizers of Intermot and EICMA cancel or reschedule their shows this year. We will provide further updates as the situation progresses. The post BMW and KTM are Skipping Intermot and EICMA Due to COVID-19 appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Dear MOby, I just purchased a great ’78 Suzuki TS250. The guy before me stripped some screws on the crankcase. Having used everything from WD-40 to an impact screwdriver and even prayer, what’s next? Machine shop? Bike shops around here won’t touch it. they’ve got money to make and won’t “waste their time.” Thx. Annie This was clearly a question for Joe Gresh, whose life work consists of rescuing old two-strokes and pouring concrete. He writes: If the screw threads are stripped you’ll have to drill the screws out and use Helicoils. If (what I think you mean) the screw heads are stripped and you can’t get a purchase with a screwdriver, there are a few options: Use a nice sharp cold chisel to pound a slot into the screw head, then try a flat blade tip on the impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer.) Use a pin punch (flat round) on the outer edge of whatever remains to try and rotate the screw head in the direction it needs to go, usually counter clockwise. Hit the punch with a hammer… Carefully drill the center of the screw head, increasing drill size until the head falls off, leaving the main body of the screw behind. Then remove the cover or whatever the screw was holding on and clamp vise grips on the bit of the screw that sticks out to remove it. Note1: These options are in no particular order. A lot of it depends on your mood at the exact moment. It’s a call best made in the field. Note 2: You can really screw (ha!) this up if you’re not talented with tools. Note 3: Always remember no matter how bleak it looks, you can toss the whole thing in the trash and get another motorcycle. More Gresh advice can be found at the Exhaust Notes Blog. Heck, we’ve even seen really smart people weld an allen wrench to the offending fastener and remove it that way, which seems to cut right to the chase, if only you have a welder handy and somebody who knows how to use it… Joe may be half kidding about getting another motorcycle, but now that there’s ebay and the www, there are plenty of entire TS engines and parts for sale for not a lot of money – a lot of money of course being a relative thing. Mrmonkeyclaw, for one, has 99.7% positive reviews on his ebay site. Stuck fasteners really are the bane of working on old vehicles; take solace in that you are not the only victim, not by a long shot. A lot of what separates us garage mechanics from professionals is their ability to quickly deal with these kinds of time-consuming hold-ups – mostly by avoiding them in the first place by refusing to work on 42-year old things. When you’re not being paid by the hour, though, you can generally unstick the worst of them eventually if you stick with it and attempt patience. Find a good radio station or podcast, take beer or coffee breaks as needed – and when dealing with what appear to be Phillips screws on Japanese bikes in the future, remember to keep holy the JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdriver. They may look the same, but you can apply a lot more force with a JIS driver than a Phillips one. Many historians now believe that not making the presence of JIS fasteners in its products more widely known was a main form of Japan’s revenge for WW2 unpleasantness. This Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2 Cross Point Impact JIS Screwdriver was designed to avoid just the problem you’re experiencing, and JIS bits for your impact driver are also widely available. Good luck! Related reading: 10 Steps to Removing Stuck Fasteners Send your moto-related questions to AskMOAnything@motorcycle.com. If we can’t answer them, at least the price is right, and we’ll do no harm in the time it takes to seek out a believable answer. The post Ask MO Anything: Stripped Fasteners on Old Motorcycles appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Since May of last year, we’ve been anxiously awaiting the official reveal of the BMW R18. We’ve had hints from BMW. We’ve had spy photos. But we haven’t had anything for sure. Well, that time is at hand. Today, BMW officially unveiled the 2021BMW R18. What does it have other than the “Big Boxer” engine? Read on and find out. Big Boxer BMW Concept R18 Pays Tribute To Company’s Heritage 2020 BMW R1800C Production Models Spied BMW Releases Details On “Big Boxer” R18 Engine 2021 BMW R18 Touring Version Spied 1. Largest, Most Powerful Boxer Ever Built The R18’s engine looks big because it is big! How does 1802cc sound? According to BMW, the power output befits the engine’s size. The largest displacement BMW has made in its 97 years of creating boxers pumps out a claimed 91 hp at 4,750 rpm and 116 lb-ft of torque at 3,000 rpm. While the torque peak is impressive, the torque wave that the engine produces, with over 110 lb-ft available from 2,000-4,000 rpm, should make any cruiser fan happy. 2. Uniquely Named Ride Modes German engineers aren’t typically known for their sense of humor, but it is on full display in the choice of ride modes available. While we all know what the Rain mode would be from previous ride-by-wire motorcycles, Roll and Rock are new but still somewhat self-explanatory. 3. The “Big Boxer” Has 4-Valve Heads And Pushrods The modern 4-valve heads are still operated by pushrods activated by dual camshafts, which are chain-driven off the crankshaft. With the cams positioned above the crankshaft on either side of the engine, the pushrods are shorter, which reduces moving mass, decreases deflection, and minimizes linear expansion of the pushrods when they are hot. The end result is improved control of the valve timing. 4. A Slip-Assist Clutch Although BMW refers to it as a “self-reinforcing anti-hopping clutch,” the job description is pretty clear. Big Twins – Boxers included – generate tremendous compression-braking forces, and a slipper clutch will eliminate rear wheel skip during bungled downshifts. 5. Elemental Suspension BMW has eschewed fancy electronically-controlled suspension components for more traditional analog pieces. The 49mm standard fork hides its delicate sliders under covers that are painted black just like the fork lowers. The rear hardtail-look suspension has a linkage-controlled single shock hidden inside the frame. Travel front and rear is 4.7 in. and 3.5 in., respectively. 6. Wire-Spoked Wheels The R18’s wheels come with centrally-mounted spokes, meaning (we guess) that the tires will have tubes. The 19-in. front wheel will sport either a 120/70 R 19 or 120/70 B 19, thanks to multiple tire suppliers. The rear 180/65 B 16 will mount to a 5.0 x 16-in. rim. 7. The Drive Shaft is Exposed! BMW knows its way around shaft drive motorcycles. So, we weren’t surprised about the final drive choice. However, there is something really appealing about seeing the spinning chromed drive shaft below the seat of a cruiser. It’s been done before, but that doesn’t make it any less cool. 8. Disc Brakes All Around Being a performance-focused manufacturer, BMW naturally put dual 300mm discs, squeezed by four-piston fixed calipers on the front. A single-disc/caliper combination of the same 300mm disc and four-piston variety live out back. The ABS adapts the braking forces, front and rear, to balance the load distribution when triggered. 9. Round Headlight In a nod to tradition, the headlight is a classic round housing. However, the application is thoroughly modern. The headlight itself is an LED unit, which features “optimized low and high beam light.” A factory turning light is available as an option and is powered by separate LEDs with their own reflector that are triggered by the motorcycle’s lean angle. 10. Combination Gauge Don’t be fooled by the round speedometer housing. It’s all for styling. Inside, it features an analog speedometer and a digital information display. The indicator lamps are “invisible” until activated. 11. Classic Riding Position While not necessarily the typical feet-forward cruiser riding position, the R18 has mid-mounted pegs to offer the ideal compromise between a relaxed riding position and one for a more enthusiastic pace. The seat is a comfortable 27.2 in. from the pavement. 12. That Exhaust We will leave it to you to decide if the exhaust system is a beauty or an abomination. 13. Accessories Galore Customization is a key component of cruiser ownership, and BMW made sure that there were plenty of options available. The R18 will launch with a raft of offers from Original BMW Motorrad Accessories. Two collections of accessories will be available from Roland Sands. BMW has also partnered with Mustang Seats and Vance & Hines exhausts for further customizing possibilities. 14. Available In Two Versions An exclusive R18 First Edition will be available worldwide at the model launch, featuring classic black paint detailed with white pinstripes, chrome upgrades, a seat badge, and a First Edition chrome clasp on the side covers. The U.S. price for the First Edition will be $19,870. A Base model will also be available in select markets. In the U.S., the MSRP will be $17,495. 15. BMW’s First Cruiser? The press documents proclaim “With the new R 18, BMW Motorrad now enters the cruiser segment.” Maybe BMW is right. Perhaps the BMW R1200C is best left down the memory hole. Get the Flash Player to see this player. 2021 BMW R 18 Specifications MSRP Base: $17,495 First Edition: $19,870 Engine Type Air/water-cooled 2-cylinder 4-stroke boxer, OHV, four valves per cylinder Displacement 1802cc (110 ci) Bore x Stroke 107.1 mm x 100 mm Horsepower 91 hp at 4750 rpm (claimed) Torque 116 lb-ft. at 3000 rpm (claimed) Compression 9.6:1 Engine Control BMS-O Emission Control Closed-loop 3-way catalytic converter, EU5 exhaust standard Alternator 600W Battery 12/26 V/Ah maintenance-free Headlight LED low beam with projection module LED high beam with projection module Starter kW 1.5 Clutch Hydraulically activated single-disc dry clutch Gearbox Constant-mesh 6-speed gearbox Final Drive Universal shaft Frame Double-loop steel tube frame Front Suspension Telescopic fork, fork tube Ø 49 mm, 4.7 inches of travel Rear Suspension Cantilever, 3.5 inches of travel Front Brake Twin disc brake Ø 300 mm Rear Brake Single disc brake Ø 300 mm ABS BMW Motorrad Integral ABS (part-integral) Rake/Trail 32.7°/5.9 inches Wheelbase 68.1 inches Fuel Capacity 4.2 gallons The post 2021 BMW R18 First Look appeared first on Motorcycle.com. 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