Peon Maface

Last week, Honda announced its returning 2021 off-road lineup, but it was missing one significant model: the CRF450R motocrosser. There’s a logical reason for that, of course: it’s getting a big update. And that’s not conjecture; we know a new CRF450R is coming because Honda is already racing it in the MXGP championship. Or least, it was, before the series shut down due to the novel coronavirus. But for the two rounds before pretty much everything in the world shut down, reigning MXGP champ Tim Gasjer and teammate Mitch Evans raced a new CRF450RW that Honda said was “created from the ground up to cope with the multitude of conditions that an MXGP rider has to negotiate.” Honda released images of the bike confirming a new design. Here’s the new CRF450RW: And here’s the 2020 CRF450R for comparison: Of course, while the CRF450RW is usually based on the production model, the factory team will make some modifications to squeeze out every bit of performance possible within the regulations. That means that some of the changes on the factory machine won’t be available on the commercial model. Thanks to design filings published by Laos’ intellectual property office, we get a look at the new 2021 Honda CRF450R. The design was filed in Laos on April 22, but it cites an earlier priority filing in Japan dated Oct. 24, 2019. The Japanese IP office hasn’t made that filing pubic yet, so we’re stuck with the Laos office’s grainy and low resolution images. Squint if you must, but the images are enough to confirm some of the changes for Honda’s new 450-class motocross racer. We believe the designs are for the production model and not the factory racer because of some notably stock components. The exhaust has the appearance of a stock muffler instead of the rounder carbon-tipped Yoshimura can on the CRF450RW. The crankshaft hole cap is clearly visible on the clutch cover, as it is on the 2020 model, whereas the hole is covered by the Hinson-branded cover on the factory racer. Other giveaways include the front brake rotor guard (identical to the 2020 model) and the breather hose going into the fuel cap instead of slightly in front of the cap as on the factory bike. Along with the new bodywork, the design filing confirms the 2021 model will use a single exhaust instead of the dual exhaust system Honda currently uses. The engine looks fairly similar to the 2020 model, but head pipe exits directly from the front instead of off at an angle like on the current CRF450R. The new header pipe routing required a shorter downtube on the frame, and a higher split into the lower cradle. The radiators are likewise shorter as a result. The factory racer has used a hydraulic clutch for a while now, while the production model has had to made do with a cable-operated clutch. The design filings shows a hydraulic clutch, suggesting the production model will lose the cable. Apart from the new header pipe routing, the engine looks similar to the previous unit. Honda confirms the CRF450RW will still be a four-valve Unicam design displacing 449cc with a 96.0 mm bore and 62.1 mm stroke, but we expect some internal engine changes. Now that the returning off-road models have been announced, it’s just a matter of time before Honda formally reveals the 2021 CRF450R. The post 2021 Honda CRF450R Revealed in Design Filings appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Yeah, well, maybe it is kind of a ridiculous comparison, but who went on a nice day-long adventure ride while you were locked down? Ryan Adams and I did, that’s who. Really it’s not even that ridiculous. The KTM 790 Adventure R sells for around $13,500; the 390 Adventure’s less than half that at $6,200. Ryan came back from the 790’s launch in Morocco last year calling it the best adventure bike in the world. Then it won a three-bike comparo starring Eric Bostrom… The Middleweight Adventure Triad Then I came back from riding the new 2020 390 Adventure around our local mountains, alone again naturally, saying for me, for the money, compared to its real competitors – Kawasaki Versys-X 300, BMW G310GS – it’s pretty, pretty good. Maybe good enough to make it preferable to the expensive 790 for lots of us who aren’t necessarily “Ready to Race” every time we turn on the ignition. Usually I’m more “Ready to Ride at My Own Pace,” or “Ready to Not Get Hurt.”  One makes 84 horsepower, 57 foot-pounds of torque and weighs 467 pounds; the other one makes about 40 horses and 27 ft-lbs of rear-wheel torque – but weighs about 80 pounds less, at 386. What we can’t escape is the theory of relativity: it’s all relative. If you’d never ridden the 790 like me, you’d think the 390 is swell, which it is. We’ve quoted Kaz Yoshima before: The most expensive thing is lightness, and the 390’s definitely got that going on for itself. Also a low(ish) seat, just low enough at the 33.6-inch claimed height for me to easily hop on and off of, and stop in whatever awkward off-camber, edge-of-abyss position I find myself in. The 790R’s 34.6-in claim is a lie: More than once I had to have Ryan A give me a tug on the right handguard to lift me off the sidestand. (I need to relearn to take off from the left side and then swing into the saddle like I used to with my old Husky TE250, but I’m sort of afraid to attempt it in sand and with a tailpack on the back seat. What if my leg doesn’t swing that high anymore?) Is this merely the complaint of a weak, old, 5’8” man? Yes. But it’s the truth for many of us. The greatest ADV bike in the world isn’t much good if you can’t climb on it and go. (A good compromise might’ve been the non-”R” 790 Adventure, whose seat KTM says is the same 33.5-in as the one on the 390. Now we’re talking.) Speaking of relative, the 790 is waaay better than the 590-pound BMW R1250 GS Adventure that tried to end me in the Mojave last year. The 790R weighs like 120 pounds less than the biggest BMW GS, and its cool side-pod gas tanks keep its mass towards the middle. Once in the pilot’s seat, gear up, and climbing to cruising altitude, the 790 begins to explain where all the extra money goes. While sometimes the rocks and ruts in the trail have a greater say in which line the little 390 takes than you’d prefer, the 790 pretty much goes where you aim it while those same obstacles seem to scamper out of its way, and the holes fill themselves in. The 790R’s way beefier and better-damped XPLOR suspension tucks 9.5 inches of travel under that tall seat, to the 390’s 6.7 and 7.0 inches (front/rear). And, the 790 gets a steering damper which the 390 does not, which I bet makes a big difference. It’s a speed thing, really: If you were riding the 390 by yourself or with a bunch of other geezers, you’d go a little slower, sitting on the seat more than standing up, and happily taking in the sights and smells of nature that are amazingly accessible not much more than an hour from the heart of LA on a bike like this. I’ve screamed past California 2N01 a hundred times on streetbikes on Highway 38 without even noticing it. It’s not that many miles to Pioneertown from the turn-off, but it’s a nice little wilderness adventure you can do in not much more than half a day from the belly of the metropolis. If you’re riding with somebody on the 790, naturally you want to keep them in sight. The 790R doesn’t just have superior suspension, it’s also got effortless power and advanced electronics that encourage you to twist the throttle at every opportunity. Matching its pace on the 390 might happen if you’re a much better rider than the 790 pilot, but it’s not going to be easy, even then. And it’s not going to be nearly as drama-free. Ryan Adams says: I may have had slightly less fun on the 390 Adventure simply due to the fact that I enjoy lighting up the rear tire to drift round corners. That, and the suspension… and the lack of sophisticated electronics. Okay, there are more than a few reasons that I prefer the 790 Adventure R, but the 390 was still capable of showing us a good time, albeit, at a slower pace. New riders, experienced riders, and old riders alike can have a good time on the 390 Adventure. It’s only if you’re planning to ride the 390 at a decent clip, or through gnarly terrain that the wee Adventure comes up short, literally. I bottomed the thing more than a few times simply riding too fast over the terrain we found ourselves on, which was nothing more than a rocky fire road. As for me, JB, I think the 390’s got remarkable grunt for a 373cc Single, and its gearbox is so good I enjoy revving it up to where the power resides – though on the dirt portion of this adventure you really mostly only ever blip back and forth between second and third, good for everything from 5 to 45 mph or so. Ryan’s been spoiled by the 790 and his coastal elite milliennialism: The 390’s mill seems to have a lack of grunt around its mid-range. On the street [climbing toward 7000 feet elevation], rpm were a necessity in order to get the small Adventure out of its own way. Flip through the gears too fast and you’ll find yourself needing to drop back down a gear to get the revs up in order to keep accelerating. Off-road, I found myself keeping the motor high in the rpm range to tap into the power when I needed it. He’s right about the ergos, though, which are fine on-road but not so much off it: One of the most apparent issues for the 390 while jumping back and forth between these two bikes was the rider triangle while standing. Riding while seated was quite comfortable and neutral for 5-foot 8-inch me, but standing feels much more cramped and somewhat awkward until you get used to it. The 390’s handlebar could be higher for people on the tall side of short. When you pick up the pace on the 390, you’ll be standing on its nice, wide steel footpegs more, and when you do that, you’ll wish its handlebar was a bit taller. (Easy enough to fix with some risers, at least.) We were totally Joshua Tree National Park-adjacent. Whenever it’s not stationary, I have to admit, the 790R is the saddle to be in, and I was most proud of myself for arranging to be in it when we hit the deep sand straights at the bottom of the mountain. I’d actually managed to keep my cool all day at elevation, but down in the des, the flop sweat started rolling down my back as soon as the KTM began Watusi-ing through the sand. Not to worry on the 790, though: Just roll on the gas, come up on plane, and try to relax. I have to think it was less fun for Ryan on the steering-damperless 390 behind me, who was very wisely giving me a wide berth after he watched me swap ends a couple of times. Finally the sand ended, thank you Jesus, and Burns Canyon became pavement. After a few miles of that, it became Pioneertown, home of Pappy & Harriet’s, icy Arnold Palmers and pulled pork sandwiches. Civilization at last. After that, all that was left to do was film our talk show with a GoPro (we left Sean Matic home to edit this time), then ride home on the freeway for an hour, which became closer to two since we hit gridlock and detours around Riverside, thanks to our glorious leaders closing a bunch of exits to keep protesters out of the city, or was it in? How quickly these right-sized ADV motorcycles can get you from the middle of nowhere to right in the middle of everything is the real beauty of them. Living in SoCal for 30 years, I did not know Pioneertown was there until a BMW GS junket last year. Now I know how to get there by land or by sand. From bighorn sheep to urban unrest in about an hour. We bumped into these guys having a drink a few miles north of I-10 east of Palm Springs. Once clear of the car/truck tangle, If you’re in a hurry, the bigger 790 is again the seat to be in, since it turns fewer, smoother rpm at any speed above 60 mph – not that it’s vibe-free at 85 – and its seat is a skosh wider and thicker. My grizzled hindquarters don’t mind either of them. Ryan is less impressed: Both seats felt like sitting on a slab of wood, with the 390’s hardness more of an Aspen to the 790’s Oak. The 390’s ergos are fine if you’re 5’8 or so. Its lower screen is less turbulent than the 790’s. Taller people might want a bit more legroom. Screw taller people, they should buy the 790. The 390’s suspension may not be as good at big rocks and bomb craters, but it has no problem at all with crap pavement. Just like on rocky dirt roads, it’s happiest at a slightly slower pace than the 790. There’s a little engine vibration in the grips, but not enough to complain about at normal 75-85 mph freeway cruising speed. On level pavement at sea level, busting 100 in top gear is no sweat. All I know is when I got home like eight hours later on the 390, after a day on all kinds of terrain, my bod felt fine. We’ll let Ryan play us out: From the outside, this might look like an oranges to oranges comparo. Really, the bikes do look quite similar, but, as one might assume, the differences between these two machines are vast. This was an interesting exercise showcasing the different machines KTM makes for different riders. Considering other bikes in the lightweight Adventure category, the 390 is simply on another level. Adjustable suspension, switchable TC and ABS, and the TFT display are just a few of the ways the 390 Adventure sets itself apart from the rest of the class. Without a proper comparison though, I can’t truly say how they perform back to back. Maybe we should go back to Baja once the border’s free flowing again. What do I have to say about the 790 Adventure R that hasn’t already been said? In my opinion, the 790 Adventure R is the best adventure bike currently on the market for riders looking to get serious off-road performance out of their middleweight ADV machines. It’s not perfect and it’s not the best overall, but it has off-road chops that are unrivaled by anything else currently available in the category. (I would just like to point out that my first comparison together and John, where he showed me how to ham it up for the camera and dismissed every other question I asked, was also between two Katooms, the 2017 KTM 1090 Adventure R vs. (my) KTM 1190 Adventure R. I had more fun this time.) Wait, I must have the last word. If the 790R is the “best adventure bike out there,” then it’s pretty swell that the little half-price 390 did as well as it did in comparison. Again, it comes down to do you want to burn down the fire road, or burble down it at a more mature pace? For Phase 3, I’m halfway tempted to drop off the 390 at Brasfield’s house for a month or two and see what kind of KTM Powerparts and other aftermarket goodies attach themselves to it. With some handlebar risers, a steering damper and maybe a little suspension work, I think it could really close the gap – especially given its huge weight advantage over the 790R. Brothers in orange. And you know we hate to shill, but both these bikes jumped the charts to #1 in their categories immediately, and at no time did I wish for an 1190 or 1290 or 1590 – though you would want their cruise control if you were going far. Enough is enough. Way to go, KTM. John Burns In Gear INSERT IMAGE, 315px, align leftHelmet: Shoei Neotec 2 $800 Suit: Aerostich Roadcrafter 3 $1,247 Gloves: Dainese 4 Stroke EVO $160 Boots: Sidi Canyon Gore-Tex $325 Ryan Adams In Gear Helmet: Klim Krios $500 Jacket: Klim Baja S4 $550 Pants: Klim Baja S4 $450 Gloves: REV’IT! Sand 3 $120 Boots: Sidi Crossfire 3 TA $525 Specifications 2020 KTM 390 Adventure KTM 790 Adventure R MSRP $6,199 $13,499 Engine Type 373.2cc liquid-cooled, four-valve, DOHC Single-cylinder, 4-stroke 799cc Parallel-Twin, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder Bore x Stroke 89 mm x 60 mm 88.0 mm x 65.7 mm Compression Ratio 12.6:1 12.7:1 Fuel System Bosch EFI (throttle body 46 mm) DKK Dell’Orto, 46 mm Throttle Body Claimed Crankshaft Horsepower 95.0 hp @ 8,000 rpm Claimed Torque 65.6 lb-ft @ 6,600 rpm Ignition / Engine Management Bosch EMS with Ride-By-Wire Bosch EMS with Ride-By-Wire Traction Control MTC MTC Clutch PASC slipper clutch, mechanically operated PASC slipper clutch, mechanically operated Transmission 6 gears 6 gears Chain X-Ring 520 X-Ring 5/8 x 1/4″ Frame Steel trellis frame, powder coated Chromium-Molybdenum-Steel frame using the engine as stressed element, powder coated Subframe Steel trellis frame, powder coated Steel trellis frame, powder coated Front Suspension WP APEX, Ø 43 mm, adjustable compression / rebound, 6.7 inches of travel WP XPLOR 48mm fork, fully adjustable, 9.4 in. travel Rear Suspension WP APEX shock absorber, adjustable rebound and spring preload, 7.0 inches of travel WP XPLOR PDS shock, fully adjustable, 9.4 in. travel Front Brake Four piston, radially mounted caliper, brake disc Ø 320 mm Dual 320 mm discs, radial-mount 4-piston J Juan calipers Rear Brake Single piston, floating caliper, brake disc Ø 230 mm Single 260 mm disc, two-piston J Juan caliper ABS Bosch 9.1MP Two Channel (incl. Cornering ABS and Offroad mode) Bosch 9.1 MP (incl. Cornering-ABS and offroad mode, disengageable Front Wheel Cast aluminum, 2.50 x 19” Wire spoke, 21” Rear Wheel Cast aluminum, 3.50 x 17” Wire spoke, 18” Front Tire 100/90 x 19 90/90-21 Michelin Karoo 3 Rear Tire 130/80 x 17 150/70-18 Michelin Karoo 3 Rake / Trail 26.5° / 3.9 inches 25.9° / 4.2 inches (26.3º / 4.3 inches) Wheelbase 56.3 ± 0.6 inches 60.2 inches Seat Height 33.6 inches 34.6 inches Dry Weight 348.3 pounds (claimed) 416.7 pounds (claimed) Fuel Capacity 3.8 gallons 5.3 gallons Ground Clearance 7.9 inches 10.4 inches The post KTM Adventure Shootout! 390 or 790R? appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Has it really been 20 years since the world didn’t seize up at the stroke of midnight, as we feared it might? Yes. Every time I walk out into the garage, my 2000 R1 sitting dormant on its stand (the last year of the first-gen R1) reminds me of what a long time ago that was. Next to all the new bikes it sees come and go, the old girl is positively archaic. In a good, Ann-Margret way, but still. While we’re still quarantining seems like a good time to look back upon what bikes have moved the game forward the most since the millennium. 2001 Triumph Bonneville This 2020 T100 Bonneville in Aegean Blue is quite a bit more refined than the ’01, but you get the picture. Triumph’s first bike back in America in the modern era was the classically styled Thunderbird of 1994, powered by a not-so classical liquid-cooled Triple. Great bike, really, but not what America was looking for apparently. Mixed messages. Back to the drawing board, and seven years later, the Hinckley boys released an all-new Bonneville powered by an air-cooled 8-valve parallel Twin. Ah. Triumph hasn’t looked back since. Though it produces some great sportbikes – including the current Street Triple 765, whose engine powers Moto2, and though upon start-up Triumph really had in mind to compete with the Japanese crotch rockets – it’s the “Classic” Twins that have done all the heavy lifting for the last two decades. The Bonneville begat the excellent new Speed Twin, the also-excellent Street Twins, your Thruxtons, your Scrambler 1200s… It’s worked out well for Triumph so far. 2002 Suzuki V-Strom 1000 Based on the original beak bike and everybody’s favorite current Suzuki. What it might lack in all out top-end power it makes up for with low-rpm lunge as soon as you give it a little gas, and if the V-Strom didn’t used to be the most feature-laden, it was always one of the lightest big adventure bikes, and always the most affordable and easiest to keep. If you need an example of how racing improves the breed, the V-Strom 1000’s engine would not exist if Superbike rules in the old days hadn’t made 750 fours race against 1000cc twins, resulting in TL1000s “S” and “R” once upon a time. Both of those came and went, long-lost old flames, but the V-Twin, now highly evolved and 1037 cc, cannot be killed. Though many may poo-poo, I didn’t mind the looks of the last generation, like this 2018, even if the 2020 we’re currently testing is svelter and sharper. Now into its 18th year of production in the form of the heavily revamped 2020 V-Strom 1050, you can have it your way, with all the modern condiments including cruise control and SIRS (Suzuki Intelligent Ride System), to include lean-sensitive combined braking and ride modes controlled by a new six-axis IMU. Suzuki happily admits its ADV bike leans a bit more toward street use, which suits most of us old sportbike guys fine, though dirt roading is certainly well within its realm. Also commuting to work, bringing home the groceries, going to Montana… meant to be used and abused since 2002. 2003 Buell XB9S Fuel in frame, oil in swingarm, brass in pocket. It was always easy to get it up with the XB. It’s not just because it’s one of my personal favorites of the last 20 years, it’s that this little Buell of mine also represents what might have been, and not just when it comes to motorcycles. The kind of things you think about when you can’t sleep at 3 am, the things you wish you could undo. The first streetable Buell, the RR1000, was a Rube Goldbergian contraption and who is this Erik Buell person? The later steel tube-framed ones of the mid-’90s were a big improvement. But the Verlicchi-framed XBs were a genius exercise in making a silk purse out of what you’ve got, an 883 Sportster engine (punched out to 984), to create a motorcycle that weighed 425 pounds, had dimensions similar to my Yamaha TT-R125L, and was a blast to root up the urban maze feral-hog style. It did only have 80 super-torquey horsepower, but that’s only because the powers that were at Harley-Davidson shitcanned the long-planned turbocharger at the last minute: Anyway, 80 seemed like plenty. Erik Buell sounds like he might have been a difficult person to get along with in a work environment. So are lots of perfectionists and geniuses. I never rode one, but plenty of people still love their Ulysses XB12s – a radical ADV bike that got here when ADV was just becoming a thing. Let’s hope Harley’s new Pan America will be even better when it arrives. I’m not holding my breath. 2006 KTM 990 Adventure Before last year, when an American on a Honda did the deed, KTM had won 18 consecutive Paris-Dakar rallies beginning in 2001. Cashing in on that rock-hard legacy, it was the 990 Adventure that first really imprinted Ready to Race on the American motopsyche, at just about the time ADV bikes were beginning to usurp sport ones. If BMW created the category with its GS line, it was KTM that added high-performance to the equation. Its new 999 cc 75-degree fuel-injected V-twin had 105 horses capable of putting out Miss Budweiser levels of roost (surprising when you’re doddling along on an XT350 and get passed by one), from a lightweight (compared to the competition at least) package with over 8 inches of heavy-duty suspension travel. We’re no longer taking the long way round, we’re going over the top and straight through the middle. For KTM, it’s been nothing but bigger and better Adventures ever since – though the 1090 of 2017 was a step toward right-sizing, and this year’s 790 Adventure an even better one – along with a spate of Dukes and Super Dukes you may have been unable to ignore in the pages of MO. Sportbikes Schmortbikes: The Austrians dropped their excellent RC8 after the 2015 model year, and haven’t looked back yet. 2008 Aprilia RSV4 2008 Aprilia RSV4… didn’t look much different than this 2020 RSV4 1100 Factory What the? The bike we begged Honda for forever was finally produced by a small manufacturer in Italy, and a full decade before that other more famous Italian manufacturer got around to bestowing upon us its V-Four. Our man Yossef Schvetz reported from Intermot 2008: This wasn’t supposed to happen. Since Milan’s EICMA show was turned into a yearly event, the Big Four usually choose either the Intermot or the Paris show to introduce their new wares. Who wants to be overshadowed by those flashy Italians? And yet, the star of the German Intermot show was an Italian bombshell. Next to the cyclic revamps to the Japanese 1000cc superbikes (It’s Yamaha and Suzuki’s turn this year), Aprilia’s leap into the void with it’s brand new V4 “Race Machine” looks like a real revolution. The bike was unveiled right after the last WSBK round in Rome, Italy, but this was the first chance to see it from up close. And, it’s the bollocks, as true Brits would say. The latest 2020 65-degree V-four iteration claims 217 horsepower and 90 foot-pounds of torque, advanced electronics that make it nearly impossible to crash (sarcasm), and wings (not Honda ones). The Tuono V4 naked version is the preferable streetbike, but the no-holds-barred RSV4 was laying down rubber on the track four years before it appeared, in 2012. Though it’s long in the tooth now, like our boy Troy said at the end of last year’s RSV4 Factory first ride, age ain’t nothing but a number. 2008 Victory Vision Bear with me. This was a highly advanced big American-built V-Twin touring bike with superior comfort and performance, outstanding fit and finish and slightly revolutionary styling – all good right up until that last part. When people didn’t see its Vision, Victory tried to dumb things down in the form of the Cross Country and Cross Roads, and when that didn’t work they said f#@k it and bought Indian. In fairness, the Great Recession didn’t help the Vision at all. Let me know if you come across a clean Vision 8-Ball, slammed and stiffer of suspension for better handling. Wait, they’re still above $8k ten years later… Reportedly, the Vision was Polaris’ biggest investment to date in a single product. Without the failure of the Vision, followed by the eventual folding up of Victory, would we have ever gotten to Indian, and would that have been a good or bad thing? Maybe we’d have gotten to some more original American motorcycles, like the FTR1200 and Challenger, that much sooner. Either way, the Vision was a great failure that led to the still mostly conservative current state of American motorcycles. 2009 BMW S1000RR Nobody told BMW sportbikes were passé when they launched this missile, signalling they were now ready to go head-to-head with the GSX-Rs and YZFs of the world instead of being content to putter around on sportbikes powered by Boxer twins. Then again, they’re not stupid over there in Bavaria: “The very fascination of this motorcycle with its racing DNA expands and upgrades the brand image of BMW Motorrad by offering an additional sporting and emotional element winning over new customers for the brand,” said Hendrik von Kuenheim, General Director of BMW’s motorcycle division, noting that the class accounts for more than 100,000 units worldwide. “We are actively looking for new options, for profitable growth and for the planned increase in volume. Precisely that is why we have decided, among other things, to take on the competition in the Supersports segment on both the road and the race track. “As part of the strategic reorientation of the BMW Group, we have announced that customer deliveries by BMW Motorrad are to increase by approximately 50% by the year 2012 to 150,000 units. To meet this objective, we are making BMW Motorrad even more sporting and dynamic. This means that we are specifically entering market segments where BMW Motorrad was not represented so far.” Not only did the new RR enter the segment, it redefined it. Though Aprilia already had traction control on its 2008 RSV4 and so did Ducati on the 2009 1098, BMW moved the ball forward on the S1000RR with Dynamic TC, Race ABS, quickshifter – all of it aided and abetted by “a gyro under the seat” which we now refer to as the IMU, without which any current sportbike dare not enter the arena. With this 193-hp bike, we truly entered the age of electronic rider aids, and all of us are more physically intact for it. 2010 Zero S and DS The electric motorcycle, everybody keeps telling us, is the future. If that’s the case, Zero got there before everybody else, in a legitimate way, ten years ago with its S (Supermoto) and DS (Dual Sport) models, featuring a proprietary lithium-ion manganese (Li-On) battery designed and assembled at the company’s Scotts Valley, California, facility. Ten years later, the big battery breakthrough (BBB) remains elusive, but Zero’s gotten a lot closer to the grail with last year’s really impressive, third-generation Zero SR/F. Cory West rode this modified SR/F to the summit of Pikes Peak in 10:46.233 last year, making it the ninth-fastest motorcycle in the race, and second electric behind a dedicated racer built by the University of Nottingham (10:19.040). Production standards are greatly improved on the new bike, and the standard SR/F’s ZF75-10 motor puts out 140 lb-ft of torque, 110 hp and is good for 124 mph. Now with integrated Level 2 charging on the base model, full-charge time is down from 9 to 4.5 hours – with an available Charge Tank option that allows a 95% electron fill-up in about an hour. The SR/F’s claimed range of 161 miles in the city (adding a Power Tank bumps it to over 200 miles), 82 miles highway, and 109 miles combined, remains every electric bike’s weak spot. But for thousands of people who commute 20 or 30 miles a day and will never stop for gas again, it’s also completely beside the point. Zero’s watched other electric bike companies come and go, it’s listened to lots of big claims from would-be competitors. Meanwhile, It just quietly goes about the business of inventing the future. 2015 Kawasaki H2R/ H2 When the experts told Kawasaki they couldn’t put a supercharger on a motorcycle without a bulky intercooler, its engineers said “hold our sake,” and the outrageous 300-horsepower H2R hyperbike was the result, followed right up by the street-legal H2 rated at only 197 hp (a lie). It helps to have an in-house aerospace division when you need to cut an aluminum impeller to spin at 130,000 rpm and compress incoming air 2.4 times over atmospheric pressure. Kawasaki didn’t need to do it, but they did it anyway. And the rest of the probably most advanced motorcycle the world has ever seen served also as a reminder of Kawasaki’s engineering prowess, lest anyone had forgotten since the original, more crude H2 of 1972. This was Kawi’s first trellis frame (a pretty green one that’s trickled right down to the $8,999 Z900). It let the engineers put strength exactly where they wanted it, while allowing plenty of cooling airflow. Some of the perfect welds are by Kawasaki robots, others are welded by expert Kawasaki craftsmen. More than any Kawasaki motorcycle to date, said Kawasaki at the time, the Ninja H2 is a showcase of craftsmanship, build quality and superb fit and finish – right down to the specially developed high-tech mirror-like paint. In the shade, the paint appears black, but in sunlight its highly reflective silver-layered surface takes on the appearance of the surrounding scenery. That interplay of light and shade emphasizes the curvature of the bike’s bodywork – into which the aerodynamics people also invested many man hours. Unlike a typical nose-down sportbike, the H2 stance is very neutral, almost flat like a Formula 1 car – to make the body as aerodynamically sleek as possible. Quick turn-in is less important than reduced drag and top speed. Wings and mirror mounts were carefully crafted to aid the mission. Also unlike a ZX-10R, “the impression from the rider’s perspective is not one of austerity, but is more about quality, high-tech control and the impeccable fit and finish.“ Funny, that’s just what we thought when we got to ride the 2018 H2 SX SE sport-tourer, which gets you a comfortable cockpit, Swedish-feeling suspension, cruise control, saddlebags and a quickshifter along with your 171 horses at the contact patch (at only 10,300 rpm). Now there’s a brand-new 2020 Z H2 naked version, too. Doing more with less (the SX SE averaged around 40 mpg) for a reasonable price, is what it’s all about. 2018 Honda Gold Wing For 40-some years the Gold Wing got bigger and fatter and older. That all came to an ABS-rapid halt when Honda decided the time was ripe to go for a younger, sportier audience. Honda says the new Gold Wing Tour (the one with the top box) weighs 90 pounds less than its predecessor. On the road, the bagger version almost feels like it lost even more. That’s down to a new double-wishbone front suspension doing away with those archaic old forks, which allowed shoving the ethereal boxer-Six engine closer to the front contact patch, resulting in the kind of glued-to-the-road handling you only find in bikes with big crankshafts running longitudinally within the frame spars. The 1833 cc Six was also completely reworked, and while its 100-horsepower top end doesn’t seem so impressive, it’s the 100 pound-feet of torque just barely off idle that makes the Gold Wing so much of a hoot to ride, especially the Dual Clutch Transmission version that lets you pin the throttle in Sport mode and watch the tach needle bounce off the redline seven times. (Well, almost: Our ’18 model had a 110-mph governor.) All that and 41 mpg for our test unit, how I miss it… It’s enough to make you almost forget this is still a luxury touring motorcycle with a big TFT display, elaborate nav and sound systems, an electric windscreen, central locking bags and blissful seating for two lower than 30 inches. Missed it by that much: 1999 Suzuki SV650 What can we say? It missed the year-2000 cut-off date. No other bike was so bandied about for this list, though. Suzuki’s affordable answer to the Ducati Monster soldiers on. 1998 Yamaha YZ400F Bringer of the four-stroke revolution to off-road riding. The post Top 10 Groundbreaking Motorcycles of the 21st Century (So Far) appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

The Coronavirus pandemic and the subsequent lockdowns have given us a lot of time to wrench on our motorcycles – good thing riding motorcycles on the open road is about as socially distant as you can get. Still, the fact remains that turning a wrench on your bike, whether to perform basic maintenance or even a complete teardown, is a part of the ownership experience many of us enjoy (or at least tolerate). While a good set of basic hand tools is an essential part of anybody’s garage, when you’re ready to step up your game then it’s time to get some power tools. Here we’ve assembled a few of the basic must-haves for anyone looking to expand their tool chest to include some battery-powered goodies. Table of Contents DeWalt DCD771C2 20V Max Lithium-Ion Compact Drill/Driver Kit - $97 Porter-Cable 1/2" 20V Max Impact Wrench - $175 Milwaukee 3/8-Inch Cordless Ratchet - $187 Makita Cut-Off/Angle Grinder Kit - $445 Dremel Lite Rotary Tool - $44 DeWalt DCD771C2 20V Max Lithium-Ion Compact Drill/Driver Kit - $97 Quite possibly everyone’s first power tool, presenting your battery-powered compact drill/screwdriver. This one is of the DeWalt variety, but as you likely already know, there are several like it from several different manufacturers. One of over 180 DeWalt products utilizing their interchangeable 20V battery system, the drill/driver has an ergonomic design, comfort grip handle, and can spin up to 1,600 rpm (without load). There are 15 clutch settings, with a 1/2-inch chuck size. Bottom Line/The first thing to buy when upgrading your tools. Shop Now Porter-Cable 1/2" 20V Max Impact Wrench - $175 Countershaft sprockets can be hard to loosen with regular hand tools. That’s where something like this Porter-Cable 1/2-inch 20V impact wrench comes in really handy. With tons of power to loosen some of the most stubborn bolts, instead of getting out your breaker bar, all you have to do is pull a trigger and let the impact wrench do the work. While the drill/driver might be your first power tool, the impact wrench might be the one getting the most use. This Porter-Cable unit can spin up to 1,700 rpm, with an advertised 330 lb-ft of torque. The LED light makes it easier to reach bolts in dark or hard to see areas, and the wrench feels balanced in your hands even with the battery installed (the battery is included, too). Bottom Line/This will be your most-used power tool. Shop Now Milwaukee 3/8-Inch Cordless Ratchet - $187 Even if you have ratcheting hand tools, the simplicity of pressing a button and having the tool do all the ratcheting can’t be overstated. This 3/8-inch cordless ratchet from Milwaukee has a 3/4-inch head for really tight spaces and delivers up to 35 lb-ft of torque. The metal trigger is variable, giving the user greater control of how fast or slow to fasten or unfasten the bolt. The housing is steel for greater durability, and extra convenience comes from the “fuel” gauge battery level indicator to let you know how much juice you have left. Bottom Line/A super convenient tool when you have lots of bolts to fasten Shop Now Makita Cut-Off/Angle Grinder Kit - $445 The other items above might be more useful on a daily basis, but the angle grinder is quite possibly the most satisfying tool to use. If for nothing else than the massive sparks you can let fly for your next social media post. But if you actually do need to do something like clean up some welds, an angle grinder/cut off wheel, like this one from Makita, is a valuable tool. Two 18v lithium-ion batteries are included in this kit, hence the price. Makita’s exclusive Automatic Speed Change Technology automatically adjusts speed and torque during operation for optimal performance. There’s a rubber handle for comfort, and the soft-start brings the disc up to speed gradually for less kickback to the user and to help prolong the bevel gears. Bottom Line/Perfect for making sparks. Shop Now Dremel Lite Rotary Tool - $44 Maybe the unsung hero of the tool chest, rotary tools like the Dremel are useful when you need to make detailed cuts or grinds, or need to sand a small, specific area. With the Dremel tool specifically, it features the EZ twist nose cap to change accessories at the tip quickly and, well, easily, without tools. You can also adjust the speed from 8,000 rpm to 25,000 rpm to have just the right amount of spin for the job. The 4V lithium-ion battery is easily charged with the included USB charger. Bottom Line/For those hard to reach places Shop Now We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews and other articles. Learn more about how this works. The post Power Tools Buyer’s Guide appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2021 Yamaha Ténéré 700Editor Score: 88.0%Engine 18.5/20Suspension/Handling 14.0/15 Transmission/Clutch 8.5/10Brakes 7.5/10 Instruments/Controls4.0/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 8.0/10 Appearance/Quality 9.0/10Desirability 9.5/10Value 9.0/10Overall Score88/100 We can hardly believe it. The long…no, interminably long wait is over. The 2021 Yamaha Ténéré 700 is finally on American soil. No, your eyes aren’t deceiving you. The motorcycle that fans of middleweight adventure touring motorcycles have been waiting for since 2016 is here. In case you doubt the sincerity of our excitement, we’ve written about the Ténéré 700 no less than 8 times here on MO. Back in May 2019, Ryan penned a thorough piece on his experiences riding the European model. Because of that, we’re not going to reinvent the wheel here. So, for the deep dive into the specifications and what it is that makes up the Ténéré, go to that story. Instead, the focus here will be on riding impressions and information not available at the time of the previous first ride. 2020 Yamaha Tenere 700 Review – First Ride To illustrate how important this motorcycle is to Yamaha, the media department gathered select publications for our online press briefing, which was followed by a small, socially-distanced introductory ride a few days later. Clearly, Yamaha doesn’t want a global pandemic to delay getting the word out on its newest adventure tourer. If I had to pick a theme for the briefing, it would have to be an emphasis on off-road capability, with the T7 being referred to several times as the “The lightweight, go anywhere adventure motorcycle.” In order to achieve this stated goal, the Ténéré needs both street polish to get the rider to and from the remote roads/trails that constitute “go anywhere.” Once there, it needs to be capable of handling whatever the off-road environment throws at it. Another area that Yamaha focused on was reliability, and it is true. Ténérés have a deserved reputation for being solidly built and being capable of running over the long haul with minimal fuss. If there were a well-known weakness in the genes, it would be what we encountered in our 2016 Wire-Wheel Adventure Shootout, where Dirty Sean Alexander managed to poke, not one but two, holes in the oil pan of the Super Ténéré ES, proving that plastic bash plate-looking pieces don’t offer real protection when you need it. Naturally, the Ténéré 700 comes with proper aluminum bottom end protection. This along with the 21-inch front and 18-inch rear wheels mated to a proper dirt suspension with 8 inches of clearance front and rear illustrate that Yamaha plans on backing up its claims. On the Road Unless you’re fortunate enough to live on a ranch bordering on National Forest land, your adventure tours necessarily begin with a street ride. How extended it is depends on your location and goals for the trip. In our case, we only had an hour or so (both ways) of paved travel before what Yamaha termed a “proper dirt ride.” In that time, however, we got to sample around town riding, a smidge of freeway, and an extended jaunt on some circuitous mountain roads. With the engine – with the exception of the intake, exhaust, radiator, and final drive – being lifted directly from the popular MT-07 (a three-year concurrent Best Value Motorcycle of the Year winner), it should come as no surprise to learn that the T7’s mill is perfectly happy to troll around town or on rural highways. While the shorter final drive may make you shift a little sooner, the engine remains vibration-free until you reach above 7,000 rpm. Cruising along on the interstate at 80 mph? How does about 6,100 rpm sound? The slick transmission is happy with old-school clutchless upshifts, and the throttle response, except in the extreme low rpm where some abruptness and driveline lash are noticeable, is impeccable. Riders who rack up a lot of miles will like the 24,000-mile valve-adjustment interval. The same CP2 engine we know and love. Really. Mechanically, it’s the exact same engine. Just with an updated intake, exhaust, cooling system, and final drive. It also gets a nice aluminum skid plate. Wind protection is better than one might expect, given the windscreen’s size, but it struck the right compromise between cooling air-flow and tiring wind blast. Even at 80 mph, turbulence was essentially nil at the top of my 5-foot, 11-inch height. The only thing that would give me pause before crossing a western state is the lack of cruise control even as an option. (Heated grips are available from the accessory catalog, though.) Another area that appears spartan at first glance is the LCD instrumentation, but if you dig a little deeper, you’ll understand Yamaha’s choice. The vertical orientation and size are inspired by rally motorcycles and is designed to make it easy to capture the important information at a glance while standing on the pegs in rough terrain. The information delivered also reflects its off-road roots. For example, you get a count-down trip meter. Above the easy-to-read screen, Yamaha included a bar for mounting other devices, like a GPS or a roadbook. Nothing but the essentials for the Ténéré’s instrumentation, but it’s easy to read at a glance when standing. The bar across the top is for navigation or other accessories. Note the ABS on/off button on the bottom right of the housing. While the 34.4-inch seat height screams dirt bike, it also spells for a roomy riding position on the street. With a just-about-perfect rider triangle for racking up miles, I could easily see myself spending multiple days on the road in the saddle. Speaking of the saddle, while it is clearly designed with off-road utility in mind, I didn’t feel like it gave up too much in highway comfort. The seat’s narrowness allows for a multitude of butt positions if any one should get uncomfortable. As with any adventure tourer when its suspension is set for street comfort, the Ténéré has a fair amount of chassis pitch and rewards smooth riding when corners are encountered. Bend the specially-built chassis into a corner with an arching line, and you’ll be rewarded with surprisingly good cornering performance. The Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR tires get credit here alongside the suspension. While the Scorpions won’t be mistaken for dedicated sport-touring rubber, if you can get beyond the somewhat vague feedback from the front end on pavement, toe-scraping lean angles are achievable. This is pretty impressive when you consider that the 21-inch front and 18-inch rear wheels are clearly for the dirt portion of the riding equation. Steering is surprisingly easy, thanks to the wide handlebar. One look at the brakes will tell you that the T7 is not a sportbike, but they do the job required of them while allowing you to finesse the application of the front brake. About the Brakes The first time you use the brakes in anger on the Ténéré is likely to be a shock. There is a fair amount of initial travel of the front brake lever, and the braking power comes on gradually, although in a very linear fashion. Before you go and start crying “crap brakes,” consider the reasoning behind this decision. This is a feature, not a bug, that Yamaha calls “controllable first touch performance.” Simply put, the designers want riders to have maximum feel and control over on- and off-road brake application. However, what you gain in old-school, analog brake feel, you lose in electronic aids. While the Ténéré has ABS for the road, there are no off-road specific ABS modes. Instead, Yamaha offers an easy-to-access ABS off button. The rear brake had a smaller range of engagement than the front and was more prone to locking. On the street, the dual 282mm front discs and Brembo two-piston calipers delivered the power I needed when asked, and once I got used to them, I was able to make quick work of any winding section of road that we encountered. For those who are concerned that my comments mean that the brake system is underpowered on the street, the binders have more than enough power to haul the bike down from speed in a panic-stop situation. Getting Dirty Now that we’re about to focus solely on the dirt capabilities of the Ténéré 700, I feel it is necessary to acknowledge my strange affinity for the ground when riding in the dirt (here, here, and here). To sum it up, I’m a mid-level dirt rider at best, and you may be wondering why someone with my skill set is evaluating a bike that Yamaha wants to sell on its dirt capabilities. Well, Ryan, MO’s most skilled dirt rider, has already ridden and commented on the Ténéré last year. The other reason is that adventure riders cover a wide variety of skill sets. So, why not see what a rider of more average capabilities can do on the bike – particularly since it lacks the electronic aids that help less experienced off-road riders muster up the courage to take their adventure bikes beyond the confines of paved roadways. So, there I was, the least experienced dirt rider in a group of professionals – or at least riders of much more advanced capabilities than myself. I survived and only tasted the indignity of the ground twice, thankfully with no cameras around. What matters to less experienced off-roaders piloting a 452 lb. (claimed) adventure motorcycle is forgiveness. How many mistakes can be recovered from, how many obstacles can be surmounted, and how many fears faced? In the end, despite the soil samples and abject terror in a couple of instances, the Ténéré taught me a few things. First, it crashes really well. Where I’ve seen other adventure bikes’ plastic handguards frag on the slightest tip over, the T7’s took the abuse with aplomb – including one impact which involved catching the front wheel in a rut at about 15 mph and instantly tossing me and the bike on our sides. The result was slight scratching on both the right handguard and the muffler (and continued embarrassment for me). These plastic handguards are tougher than they look. My two crashes left only scratches. In those instances where I was actually riding the Ténéré instead of lying beside it, the engine impressed me with its flexibility. It was more than happy to chug along, lugging its way over terrain that had me at the limits of my ability. In fact, I spent most of the day in second gear – even from a stop – because of the engine’s low-speed tractability. Despite spending most of its time in the low rpm numbers, it didn’t mind revving out when the dirt turned to a graded fire road, and I gained my confidence. The throttle was easy to modulate, and the lurch that I noticed on the street at low rpm was a non-issue in the dirt. While the Ténéré has no traction control, I found rear wheel spin to be easy to control, thanks to the predictable throttle. If you’ve spent any time in the dirt, you know how important it is to be able to feather the clutch to keep the rpm up when working your way over rocks and the like. The T7 took all of this with a grace that boosted my confidence. You can be forgiven for thinking that the select switch is for ride modes, but the Ténéré has no such rider aids. Instead, it is for changing the items displayed on the LCD screen. The technological support I was most concerned about not having on the Ténéré was ABS on the front wheel. When thinking about the ride beforehand, I had visions of doing a sandy descent in front of the video and still photographers and locking the front wheel to familiar results. Instead, the front brake that required some getting used to on the street was a lifesaver in the dirt. I could feel what the front tire was doing and mete out the appropriate level of force that the situation warranted, be I approaching a corner that I needed to slow down on or negotiating a complicated (for me) downhill section. Although I wasn’t jumping the Ténéré, I did manage to use an extensive amount of the suspension travel just by riding within my capabilities. This shouldn’t come as a surprise since I occasionally rode over obstacles that a more talented rider would have been able to circumvent, but it was nice to know that the T7 had my back. The fully adjustable piggyback shock features a knob for easy preload adjustment. The fork is also adjustable for compression, rebound, and preload. The girth of many adventure tourers strikes fear in the hearts of many riders when it comes time to leave the tarmac behind. Although the Ténéré felt like more than 452 lb. when lying on my leg, it felt fairly light and controllable when I was in the appropriate riding position. In fact, it was the confidence inspired by its maneuverability that put my front wheel in the rut, causing my hardest crash of the day. I’d just told myself that I was really getting the hang of things when it happened. Famous last words. The four-eyed headlight comes straight from Yamaha’s rally bikes. The windshield offers a good balance of protection and cooling breeze. Back in One Piece After waiting so long for the Ténéré 700 to arrive in the states, you’ll need to wait a little bit longer to see how it performs compared to the rest of the middleweight adventure touring class. My opinion is that, in terms of outright off-road performance, it will weigh in a tad below the KTM 790 Adventure R, and that’s not a bad thing. With an increased focus on performance, there often comes a penalty to those who lack the skills to exploit it to its limits. Instead, I feel that there is something to be said for the ridability – for forgiveness if you will – offered by a bike that delivers a more balance package performance-wise. The other huge selling point for the Ténéré is its impressive $9,999 price tag. Yes, that means you miss out on some features like TFT screens and electronic rider aids, but the Ténéré delivers a combined on- and off-road package that provides a tremendous value for the money. The 2021 Yamaha Ténéré 700 is available TK at your local dealerships. The color options are Ceramic Ice, Intensity White, and Matte Black, and Yamaha has an extensive line of accessories, including suspension- and seat-lowering options, already available. If you’re in the market for a middleweight adventure touring bike, this is a very good time to be a motorcyclist. We can’t wait until we can do our shootout! 2021 Yamaha Ténéré 700 + Highs Streetable utility combined with dirt capability That CP2 engine! Less than $10,000 – Sighs Mediocre street braking power No electronics suite The 34-inch seat may be off-putting for some In Gear Helmet: Shoei Hornet X2 $716 Suit: Spidi 4Season H2Out Jacket $950 Boots: TCX Baja Gore-Tex $370 Gloves: Alpinestars SP X Air Carbon V2 $100 2021 Yamaha Ténéré 700 MSRP $9,999 Engine Type 689cc liquid-cooled Parallel Twin Bore and Stroke 80.0mm x 68.6mm Fuel System EFI Compression Ratio 11.5:1 Valve Train DOHC; 8 valves Transmission 6-speed; wet multiplate clutch Final Drive Chain Front Suspension 43mm inverted fork, fully-adjustable; 8.3-inches travel Rear Suspension Single shock, adjustable preload (w/remote adjuster) and rebound damping; 7.9-inches travel Front Brake Dual 282mm hydraulic disc; selectable ABS Rear Brake 245mm hydraulic disc; selectable ABS Front Tire 90/90R21 Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR Rear Tire 150/70R18 Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR Rake/Trail 27°/4.1 inches Wheelbase 62.8 inches Seat Height 34.4 inches Curb Weight 452 pounds (claimed) Fuel Capacity 4.2 gallons Available Colors Ceramic Ice; Intensity White; Matte Black The post 2021 Yamaha Ténéré 700 Review – First Ride appeared first on Motorcycle.com. 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Ryan Adams Photos by: Evans Brasfield (Street), Caliphotography (Track) Video by: Sean Matic As of 2015, the sport of boxing has a total of 17 different weight classes. For a while before that there were only eight, and during the sport’s early days there was only one – heavyweight. These two machines certainly aren’t heavyweights, and as I looked down the weight categories, cruiserweight sounded more apt for a future test of American iron, and light heavyweight is an oxymoron. After that, there’s super middleweight, a class slightly heavier than your regular middleweights. Perfect. 2020 KTM 890 Duke R – First Ride Review 2020 Triumph Street Triple 765 RS Review – First Ride Boxing parallels are somewhat common whenever you put two competitors against each other. So, forgive me for doing it again with the title of this test – but there’s a method to the madness. Just calling the KTM 890 Duke R and Triumph Street Triple RS naked bikes doesn’t do either justice. Their mid-displacement engines hold them back from true streetfighter status, too (at least based on my arbitrary rules that I’m making up as I type this sentence). But these two motorcycles certainly are special, and with motorcycling (or maybe it’s just moto-journo hacks like us) continually defining itself into smaller and smaller sub-categories, sometimes it helps to draw inspiration from outside the sport.  From the moment we first threw a leg over the KTM 890 Duke R, it was clear that it was going to be a contender for all kinds of awards and accolades. It’s a damn good motorcycle, highlighted by an engine that instantly put a grin on our faces. But there’s another motorcycle out there, similar in many ways to the KTM, also with a grin-inducing engine – the Triumph Street Triple RS. The Same Thing, All Over Again If you’re getting the feeling of deja vu, like we’ve already done this – we did. Sorta. The important distinction is that test was between the 790 Duke and Street Triple R. This one ups the stakes with the 890 Duke R and Street Triple RS. While both are visually very similar to their counterparts we tested a year ago, a series of choice upgrades help both up their performance levels considerably. We’ve been here before, but last time it was with the KTM 790 Duke and Triumph Street Triple R. With the KTM, the obvious difference is the bigger engine, but you also get upgraded WP suspension, updated electronics (still using an IMU), and Brembo brake components with larger discs. On the Triumph, you’re still using the 765cc Triple, but the RS gets more power out of the three cylinders. Other upgrades include a quickshifter in both directions, fully adjustable Öhlins STX40 shock, and Brembo M50 calipers. A Disruption In The Force: KTM 790 Duke Vs. Triumph Street Triple R On paper anyway, this matchup between the 890 Duke R and Street Triple RS couldn’t be more perfect. Since the Triumph makes more power with the RS than it does with the R, the KTM’s bigger displacement provides more parity (more on that in a moment), and the higher-spec suspension and electronics between both models also make for a fairer fight. Then, there’s the cost. At $11,699 for the 890 Duke R and $12,550 for the Street Triple RS, it’s entirely within reason to think a consumer would be cross-shopping these two models (and, in fact, we personally know people who were). Triumph’s Street Triple is back, this time in RS trim, while the KTM bulks up with the 890 Duke R. As is our standard procedure, we put both bikes on the dyno, weighed them with full fuel loads, and logged miles on the street and on track. Specifically, we joined our friends at Let’s Ride Trackdays for a day at Buttonwillow Raceway to let each bike flex its muscles. We leveled the playing field on both bikes by swapping the stock rubber with the excellent Pirelli Supercorsa TD. We really didn’t need to do this, as the Michelin Power Cup II and Pirelli Supercorsa SP that come standard on the KTM and Triumph, respectively, are quite good, but our 890 test unit’s rubber was looking fairly worn (and no replacements were available), while the Street Triple’s tires were brand new. No Ducati? More than a few of you said you wanted to see the Ducati Hypermotard thrown into this mix. We did, too. It’s hard to classify the Hyper, but putting its looks aside, the riding style jives perfectly with the KTM and Triumph – all three test your levels of self-control and ability to not act like a hooligan at every opportunity. We wanted to include the Hypermotard, but one wasn’t available in time. But at $13,395 for the base Hyper, it costs more than the KTM and Triumph and gets “basic” Marzocchi/Sachs suspension components. We were willing to overlook both those things, plus the fact that, with its claimed 114 crankshaft horsepower, its 937cc Testastretta L-Twin comes up a little short compared to the 890 and STRS because we know as well as anyone spec charts can never reveal a bike’s true character. However, the Hypermotard isn’t here for one simple reason: Ducati didn’t have one for us to test within our timeline. A Tale Of Two Engines Back to the task at hand, we start this test with a revelation of how equal, yet different, both bikes are. Strapped to the roller on the MotoGP Werks dyno, both the KTM and Triumph put down 116 hp to the wheel – 116.2 hp for the KTM, 116.6 hp for the Triumph. The KTM, however, reaches its power peak at 9,500 rpm while the Triumph gets to 116 hp at 12,100 rpm. At 9,500 rpm, when the KTM is at its peak, the Triumph is hovering around the 100 hp mark. Peak numbers are one thing, but it’s the entire curve that’s important. Both bikes make basically the same power, but look at the advantage the Duke carries throughout its rev range. To the Triumph’s credit, its graph has hardly a dip from start to finish – a sign of excellent fuel mapping you can feel from the saddle. This points to something more revealing about both bikes. Take a closer look at the dyno chart, and you’ll see the glaring difference between these two: the KTM makes significantly more power than the Triumph until redline. It isn’t until the 890 signs off that the Street Triple’s 765cc three-cylinder makes up the gap. It’s a similar story on the torque front, except the Duke wallops the Street Triple throughout the rev range en route to its 70.2 lb-ft. peak. Compared to the Triumph’s 56.3 lb-ft. peak this is a difference you can feel. Especially on the street. As Ryan “Ear Holes” Adams puts it: “On the street, you’re less likely to be revving the [Triumph] motor up into the meat of the powerband, but what you do get is a continuous delivery of power and torque that’s mild-mannered while still having the ability to quickly catapult you to ticket-inciting speeds should you stay on the gas.” More than just an over-bored KTM 790 engine, the 890 Parallel-Twin carries a higher redline than the 790 as well as independently controlled throttle bodies. Meanwhile, on the KTM, Ryan notes: “The torque of the latest KTM Parallel Twin is addicting and brutal. Hard on the gas while flipping through first, second, third, fourth, and fifth gear all have the potential to loft the front end. KTM could take some notes from Triumph though when it comes to fueling. Riding Evans’ remapped, Power Commander V-equipped 790 shows just how smooth the mill can be. So, it’s not a deal-breaker, but it’s definitely one of the bike’s few weak points.” I’ve never been one to call the 765cc Triple underpowered, but when you ride it back-to-back with the 890, the KTM clearly leaps off the line or out of corners with noticeably more ferocity than the Triumph. Even rolling down the freeway, when you need to overtake someone, the KTM is eager to do it. In comparison, the Triumph… proceeds. You have to continually keep the Triple revving to keep pace – an easy feat considering how nice a wailing three-cylinder is to the ears. It feels wrong to say anything negative about Triumph’s 765cc three-cylinder, as we’ve loved the thing dating back to its 675cc days. But its shortcomings are apparent when side-by-side with the KTM. On track, where you’re high in the revs anyway, the Triumph’s torque deficit isn’t much of a factor, but since both bikes make the same power and only weigh within eight pounds of each other – 408 lbs for the KTM, 416 lbs for the Triumph (ready-to-ride, with a full tank of gas) – both bikes feel neck and neck in regards to straight-line speed. The Duke’s torque gets better drive out of corners, but because the Triumph is revving higher, it sounds faster. The real adjustment when hopping off one and to the other is remembering the different shift points needed to keep each in their respective sweet spots. Ryan noted the Triumph’s fueling as “precise,” a description I agree with, with very little on-off throttle jerkiness or lag. The same can’t be said about the KTM, at least in Track mode, the most aggressive of the riding modes. On/off throttle transitions bring up some lurchiness in the power delivery, though it never really bothered anyone on the street or track. Again, it’s one of those things you really notice when hopping off one and going directly to the other. KTM 790 Duke Project: Building A 790 R If this worries you, there’s good news: an ECU tune should do wonders for cleaning up the abrupt throttle. How do we know? Because Evans brought along his 790 Duke, complete with Power Commander V recalibration, and it only took one session to see the difference in fueling – Evans’ bike was especially clean and linear on the bottom compared to the standard 890. Gearbox Which brings us to another topic – shifting. “As different as the two motors are,” says Ryan, “the transmissions are equally at opposite ends of the spectrum.” The Triumph’s quickshifter is silky smooth, up or down, clicking into any gear with a flick of the toe. Even the 1-2 shift is nice and clean. Our original KTM test mule, meanwhile, was seemingly impossible to shift without using the clutch, especially from first to second. No matter how hard we pressed up with our foot, sometimes it just didn’t want to shift via the quickshifter. I noted in my 890 First Ride how the transmission felt notchy. Aboard this test bike, it was flat-out bad. As if there were a terribly bent shift fork. KTM tells us the shifting issues we were having are rooted in the quickshifter calibration software, not anything mechanical. Here you see the quickshifter mechanism on the 790 Duke, which didn’t give us any problems. A call to KTM cleared up a few things. First, we were informed the hard shifting was due to a software calibration issue within the quickshifter on our pre-production test bike and not a mechanical problem with the transmission itself. Dealerships are supposed to update this software before handing the keys over to a customer. Second, we were given a different, software-updated, test bike to continue our test with and this unit, while drastically improved over our original tester, still couldn’t match the Triumph when it came to clean shifts. Just as with the engine, however, after riding Evans’ 790 Duke, equipped with the same quickshifter, changing gears is just fine, which leaves us feeling a little more comfortable KTM reps weren’t just blowing smoke at us. Still, as Ryan notes, “the Duke’s transmission is the Achilles heel of the bike.” Handling It probably doesn’t come as much of a surprise that getting around a corner or two, whether on the street or the track, is an area both motorcycles excel in. Both bikes feature fully-adjustable suspensions, which actually respond well to inputs. On the Triumph, we commend Showa’s 41mm Big Piston Fork for soaking up bumps nicely right out of the box, the only change we made was adding a little more preload at the track for better composure under braking. Initially, the Öhlins STX40 shock was delivered to us with its compression circuit one click away from being closed off. As you can guess, the resultant ride was stiff and bumpy. Backing out the adjuster five more clicks made a big difference in ride quality and chassis compliance. There’s more of the same on the KTM’s side. We hardly touched the WP 43mm Apex fork since we didn’t feel the need to, but we did anyway to see how effective the bike responds to changes. Thankfully, some bright minds at WP affixed wingnut-type adjusters to the top of the fork to make rebound or compression changes tool-less, since the handlebar sitting above it would block access if you were trying to use a flat head screwdriver. Luckily the Triumph’s bar sits just far enough below the slots to be reachable with a long screwdriver. On the shock side, WP’s Apex unit is also fully adjustable, and again only minor changes were made to get the bump absorption we preferred. Chassis-wise, however, the Street Triple and Duke take different approaches to attacking a curve. The Triumph’s 23.9º rake is slightly more aggressive than the KTM’s, and its shorter wheelbase helps it bend into corners quickly. On the Duke, its 24.3º rake is a hair less aggressive than the Triumph, and its long swingarm lends to its 58.3-inch wheelbase, three whole inches longer than the Street Triple (both have identical trail numbers – 3.9 in.). Theoretically, the KTM’s much longer wheelbase shouldn’t let it steer as quickly, but its wide bar lets you manhandle the Duke to your will, proving again that all the spec chart numbers don’t always give you an accurate portrayal of what the bike will actually be like to ride. Once the Triumph is on its side, its chassis has a slight edge absorbing mid-corner bumps. Ryan points out another bonus for the KTM: “Despite weighing only eight pounds less than the Street Triple, the 890 Duke R feels 50 pounds lighter when slicing through a section of corners. It really is a svelte package.” KTM nailed it when dialing in the 890’s center of mass, as it truly feels lighter than the scales tell us. Ryan continues, “The Street Triple RS never really struck me as being sluggish in the handling department, until I rode the 890 Duke R. It’s pretty remarkable how big of a difference there is.” Tossing a bike into a turn is one thing, but how it feels once you’re leaned over is another. Once you combine bumps in the road, speed, and lean angle, the Triumph claws back some ground. “Where the Triumph’s handling shines is in mid-corner stability,” Ryan says. “The KTM can, at times, feel nervous with its less-than-stellar fueling and razor-sharp handling…” Suspension changes we made throughout the day at the track minimized these issues, but the difference was still noticeable. Wider bars on the KTM give you the leverage to bend the bike to your will. Ergos If you’re noticing a trend so far, it’s about how differently each of these machines achieve their shared goal of hauling ass. Those differences extend to how you sit on them. Here’s Ryan again: “Keeping with the night and day theme we see going here, the Street Triple’s saddle is infinitely more comfortable – and lower – than the 890 Duke’s flat, hard seat. The Triumph’s narrower handlebar and higher footpegs make the entire rider triangle feel more compact, whereas the KTM has a much more open cockpit – something I actually preferred at the track.” While I mostly agree with my tattooed compadre, my preferences are a little more nuanced. The lower pegs and more spacious, albeit harder, seat of the Duke was my pick on the street. I liked being able to move around and stretch my legs on those freeway drones, and the slight forward cant had less of a sail effect on my chest. A plush seat cushions your butt while higher pegs bend your knees a little tighter than the KTM. The bars are closer to you, too. The Triumph’s seat is considerably more cushioned, but its pegs are also noticeably higher and bars are slightly closer to the rider. This combination locked me in place more than I’d prefer on the street and had me feeling a little sail-like on the freeway. On track, however, my preferences shifted. Suddenly I was moving around more than I wanted on the KTM, with nothing to lock into. My arms would be doing extra work keeping me from scooting too far back on corner exit while unleashing the Duke’s healthy power. This simultaneous action of twisting the throttle while also bracing my arms to keep myself in place drains energy and sometimes leads to unwanted twists of my wrist. The Triumph’s tighter confines helped keep me in place at full lean, during transitions, and especially on the gas, so my arms could stay relaxed while accelerating and my legs could keep me in place. In comparison, you can see on the KTM how much room is left on the seat behind the rider. Lower pegs are more comfortable, and the standard placement of the bars (they’re adjustable) place the rider in a slight cant to cut through the wind easier. Electronics Motorcycles are nothing these days without a proper electronics suite, and in this category there’s an important distinction to be made – the KTM has an IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) while the Triumph does not. This makes all the difference, as even though both bikes have traction control and ABS, the IMU enables the KTM’s traction control to be applied in a much smarter, subtle, and progressive way. In short, it’s barely noticeable. The KTM also comes with Cornering-ABS, too. The Duke’s TFT display is simple, clean, and easily navigated with the buttons on the left bar. A digital bar graph rev counter is easy to read at a glance. The Triumph’s traction control, with its lack of an IMU, is much more archaic, relying on wheel speed sensors exclusively to react to spin instead of predict it. What’s worse, the TC sensitivity is directly tied to the different riding modes and can’t be changed independently like on the Duke. The result is a system that can step in too early and for too long, with the power interruption feeling a lot like turbo lag. One moment you have a certain amount of power as TC intervenes, then when TC finally lets up – bam. You get all the rest. Subtle it most certainly is not. Here’s some good news: both bikes use a TFT display to show you information. Both are easily seen in direct sunlight, too. On the Duke, the menus are easy to manipulate and toggle through via buttons on the left bar. The Triumph has buttons and a mini joystick on the left bar, but it also has buttons on the right bar. I suppose if the Street Triple were your only bike, you’d get used to the switches and buttons quickly, but they’re less intuitive than on the KTM. What’s worse, the Triumph allows you to toggle between four different screen layouts – none of which have an easily readable tachometer. The Triumph’s TFT gauges are just as easy to see, but despite the fact this particular screen configuration has two tachometers (a numerical readout on top and twin bar graphs that originate in the center and move outward), neither of them are easy to read at a glance. Brakes When it comes to stopping power, both the Triumph and KTM scrub off speed just as well as anything out there. Ryan notes, “like the suspension, both bikes use topshelf componentry in the stopping department, too.” We’re talking Brembo MCS master cylinders and Brembo calipers. Brembo Stylema calipers and a MCS master cylinder are some of the best OEM components you can buy. When paired with the KTM’s 320mm discs, the stopping power on the Orange bike is simply insane. The difference, in case you couldn’t tell by now, is in the details. The KTM gets 320mm rotors compared to the 310mm discs on the Triumph. Higher-spec Stylema calipers on the Duke are just a nudge higher on the Brembo ladder than the M50s on the Street Triple. To be fair, both systems are excellent, with all the power and linearity you could ask for in a production bike. But it’s our job to split hairs here, and Ryan and I agree the Duke has the slightest edge. Coming equipped with C-ABS and the ability to turn off rear ABS seals the deal in the 890’s favor. Looks Neither Ryan nor I are exactly ones to talk when it comes to the looks department, especially now that social distancing has made it a little tricky to get a haircut, but we both agree the KTM looks striking. From its angular design, to its weird front headlight, to its orange frame and wheels, the 890 Duke R just looks the part of a mini streetfighter. We like that. It’s not that the Triumph is a bad-looking motorcycle, and considering how subjective this subject is, you might have the complete opposite opinion as Ryan and I do anyway (Evans does). However, to us, Triumph’s modern take on the bug-eye headlight thing made popular by the original Speed Triple all those years ago is starting to look a little…dated. Show us something new, Triumph. And The Winner Is… It might seem like we’re bashing the Triumph here, but this really isn’t the case. It’s simply a matter of highlighting the differences we may normally gloss over because these two really are so closely matched. The last time we had a Duke and Street Triple together, we noted how difficult it was to pick a winner between the two. Both are exceptional machines, going about their business in very different ways. Then, like now, picking a winner was hard. If the Street Triple is calling your name, you should answer it. You won’t be disappointed. The Street Triple’s three-cylinder wail is as intoxicating as ever, but the Duke’s brute power has its own unique charm. The Triumph has a small edge in the handling department, but the KTM isn’t far behind. Looks are obviously subjective, but both Ryan and I lean towards the Duke. As far as brakes go, they’re virtually even. For me, the KTM’s grunt is more usable than the Triumph’s top-end, its brakes are a tad better, and the cherry on top is how much more sophisticated the 890’s electronics are compared to the Street Triple. Oh, and it’s cheaper, too. For us, the allure of the 890 Duke R was too much to resist. Ryan agrees: “If I’m spending my money, the KTM is the bike I’m going home with. It’s slightly less expensive and addresses the ergonomic issues I had with the 790 Duke, all the while sporting a torque monster of a motor and more adjustable electronics. Knowing that our two major issues with the orange bike are (relatively) easily rectified just adds to the ease of the decision.” 2020 KTM 890 Duke R + Highs Torque monster Excellent electronics Killer brakes – Sighs Clunky transmission/quickshifter Stock fueling needs work Chassis isn’t as composed as the Triumph 2020 Triumph Street Triple RS + Highs One of the best quickshifters on the market That three-cylinder sound! Better chassis of the two – Sighs Archaic electronics Ergos can be a little tight for some Maybe the Street Triple styling is getting a little long in the tooth? Troy’s Street In Gear Helmet: Arai Corsair X Nakagami $980 Jacket: Alpinestars Core Jacket $501 Pants: Alpinestars Crank Riding Jeans $213 Gloves: Alpinestars SP-2 v2 Gloves $140 Boots: Alpinestars SP-1 Shoes Discontinued Ryan’s Street In Gear Helmet: AGV Sportmodular Helmet $850 Jacket: Dainese Super Speed Textile Jacket $370 Pants: Dainese New Drake Air Textile Pants $260 Gloves: Dainese 4 Stroke EVO Gloves $220 Boots: Dainese Axial D1 Air Boots $530 Troy’s Track In Gear Helmet: Arai Corsair X Nakasuga 2 Helmet $784 Suit: Mithos Full Custom, Kangaroo Leather, Tech-Air Compatible Starting at $2639 Airbag: Alpinestars Tech Air Race Vest $1150 Gloves: Racer High Racer Gloves $230 Boots: Alpinestars Supertech-R Boots $500 Ryan’s Track In Gear Helmet: Shoei X-14 Starting at $731 (Link is for solid white) Suit: Dainese Misano 2 D-Air Perforated Race Suit $2500 Gloves: Dainese Full Metal 6 Gloves $430 Boots: Dainese Axial D1 Air Boots $530 Specifications KTM 890 Duke R Triumph Street Triple RS MSRP $11,699 $12,550 Engine Type 890cc Liquid-cooled, Parallel-Twin 765cc, liquid-cooled, Triple Bore and Stroke 96.0mm x 62.1mm 77.99mm x 53.4mm Fuel System Programmed fuel-injection system (PGM-FI); DKK Dell’Orto 46mm throttle bodies Multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection with SAI. Electronic throttle control Compression Ratio 13.5:1 12.54:1 Valve Train DOHC, four-valves per cylinder DOHC, four valves per cylinder Horsepower 116.2 hp at 9500 rpm 116.6 hp at 12100 rpm Torque 70.2 lb-ft at 6900 rpm 56.3 lb-ft at 9300 rpm Electronics MTC (lean angle sensitive, 3-Mode disengageable + Track mode optional), 4 Ride Modes, Quickshifter Up/Down (optional), ABS (incl. Cornering-ABS and Supermoto) Ride Modes, Up/Down Quickshifter, ABS, Traction Control (Non-IMU) Transmission 6-speed, Wet, multi-plate, cable operated w/slipper clutch 6-speed, Wet, multi-plate, slip-assisted, with Triumph Shift Assist Final Drive X-Ring 520 chain X-ring chain Frame Chromium-Molybdenum-Steel frame using the engine as stressed element, powder coated. Aluminum subframe Front – Aluminum beam twin spar. Rear – 2-piece high pressure die cast Front Suspension WP APEX 43 (compression, rebound adjustable) 5.5-inch travel Showa 41 mm upside down big piston forks (BPF), Adjustable compression damping, rebound damping and preload adjustment. Rear Suspension WP APEX Monoshock (Compression (high and low speed), rebound, hydraulic preload adjustable), 5.9 inches of travel Öhlins STX40 fully-adjustable piggyback reservoir RSU Front Brake 2 × Brembo Stylema four piston, radially mounted caliper, brake disc Ø 320 mm Twin 310 mm floating discs, Brembo M50 4-piston radial monobloc calipers Rear Brake Brembo single piston floating caliper, brake disc Ø 240 mm “Single 220 mm disc, Brembo single-piston caliper, switchable ABS “ Front Tire Michelin Powercup II 120/70 ZR17 Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP 120/70 ZR17 Rear Tire Michelin Powercup II 180/55 ZR17 Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP 180/55 ZR17 Rake/Trail 24.3º / 3.9 in. (99.06mm) 23.9º / 3.9 in. (99.06mm) Wheelbase 58.3 ± 0.6 inches 55.3 in. Seat Height 32.8 32.5 in. Curb Weight 408 lbs. 416 lbs. Fuel Capacity 3.7 gal. 4.6 gal. The post The Clash of Two Super Middleweights: KTM 890 Duke R vs. Triumph Street Triple RS appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Has everybody but me already seen this guy’s work? I bumped into his latest, simply named the Adventure, when I was slurking around the web looking at Ducati ADV bikes. Not sure how this works, since the brand new Scrambler 1100 Sport PRO we just tested tipped our scales 457 pounds worth, with 4 gallons of gas. Walt claims his Adventure, also packing an 1100 Ducati motor, weighs 350 pounds. With 6.5 gallons of fuel. Light is right. We’ve got Kevlar bodywork enveloping two linked aluminum fuel tanks, one of them in the subframe of the braced, first-gen Hypermotard frame. An upgraded Marzocchi fork and Ohlins shock give 8.5 inches of travel, but the beauty of your Siegl machines is that they’re customizable, so you can go full moto suspension if you desire – but the seat’s also made with long-distance comfort in mind. And Walt’s site says there’s already 14,000 miles of trails downloaded in the bike’s GPS, which “can be easily disengaged from its holder and used as a tablet.” I came for the Adventure but stayed for a bunch of the other bikes this guy has been turning out from his actual old-world barn workshop in New Hampshire since 2007. I take it back, it’s a converted textile mill. The Leggero was the first; it also uses a 900 Ducati motor (Bruce Meyers Performance rebuilt and blueprinted, with Keihin FCR carburetors if desired), in a chrome-moly frame built in-house. With the Leggeros, I’m using classic sport design elements that are clearly recognizable as such. That includes almost all aspects of the build, from exhaust to frame design. And with today’s brakes, modern suspension components and fuel injection systems, I’m able to build a truly contemporary motorcycle. I’m getting the best out of the really great characteristics that Ducati has engineered into their bikes, while making everything lighter and stronger. With the two-valve engine I need less components, so the design is much cleaner. — Walt Siegl What? You like Italian but prefer three cylinders? Built of course to order, the Bol d’Or packs a new, 798 cc MV Agusta triple inside all-new lightweight composite bodywork. It’s not easy to improve upon the looks of a standard MV F3; you’ll have to make the call. Further lightening measures include an aluminum subframe, a lightweight exhaust system and WSM rearsets machined from 7075-T651 grade aluminum. A ram air system was created to get the best out of the highly tuned 3-cylinder engine. The diameter of the air intakes was increased and they were tucked into the front of the fairing. To get the most out of these modifications and to gain better torque and horsepower, the ECU is flashed with a fully tunable performance program. What? You just want a track bike? And so you shall have one. The WSM Superbike gets another Bruce Meyers Performance engine, this one a 1098. This particular bike is swaddled in all the finest accouterments, including Ohlins FGR World Superbike forks and WSM-spec Ohlins TTX shock, Brembo Monobloc calipers and 330mm rotors, WSM pre-preg carbon fiber with c-f airbox, a WSM aircraft spec chrome-moly structural carbon fiber subframe/tail, OZ wheels… the Ducati ECU with WSM Race Spec program and wiring harness provides traction control and quickshifter, controllable via full-interface dashboard. ——————————————— I, I think I’m starting to hate Walt Siegl and his Hollywood looks and New Hampshire textile mill with the red Alfa parked out front. Here’s his “About” info: At 19, Walt left art school in his native Austria to join a road racing team. He later worked in France as a shunter in a train yard and as a toolmaker and welder in Germany, Austria and Italy. A job with an Austrian steel company took him to Moscow, where he eventually joined the Austrian Foreign Service. In 1985 he transferred to New York City for a position promoting contemporary Austrian art and culture for the Austrian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Walt spent his free time building motorcycles for himself and friends out of a basement across the river in Long Island City. In 2007 he moved his workshop and his family to an old mill town in southern New Hampshire to build motorcycles full time. There’s tons more information and fantastic photography of all the bikes, and Walt, and the mill at Walt Siegl Motorcycles. Oh, and the Adventure isn’t his latest. There’s an electric bike now too, the “Pact.” The post Walt Siegl Motorcycles appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Let us sing a song of praise to our motorcycle helmets! Their primary purpose is to sacrifice themselves to protect our noggins. When you bang your head, their outer shell crushes to spread out and lessen the force of the impact before the soft EPS liner compresses to mitigate G-forces before they reach your delicate brain. But that’s not all helmets do. They protect you from abrasion in a slide, keeping your face pretty, and they absorb all manner of small impacts from juicy or stinging bugs to pebbles that your riding buddy’s sticky rear tire kicks up to face level. On the inside, their padding helps keep you comfortable by wicking away sweat while doing its best to limit noise and protect your hearing. All of this means that you need to care for the lid that cares for you. The exterior should be cleaned and polished regularly. Special care should be taken on the delicate surfaces, particularly the visor. The interior has its own set of needs. The intimate contact it has with your face and scalp means that the liner absorbs your oils and sweat, leading to the dreaded helmet funk. However, with a little love, you can keep your helmet looking and smelling great for years, extending the useful life of the most important – and often most expensive – pieces of protective gear many motorcyclists own. The key ingredient for removing hardened bug impacts and other goo is a wet soapy cloth and patience. Soak and soften. Wipe clean. Repeat until the bugs are gone. Exterior Cleaning When it comes to your helmet’s exterior, there are two levels of cleaning. The first is a quick post-ride cleaning/wipe down. The second, we’ll call a deep cleaning that you do a couple of times a season. For a quick cleanup, it’s hard to beat S100 Detail & Wax plus a microfiber cloth. To keep your helmet clean and not allow the dead bugs to harden and possibly etch themselves into your helmet’s finish, we recommend a quick post-ride cleaning. Often, just wetting a paper towel or microfiber cloth and laying it over the goo for a minute or two will be enough to soften up the debris. Then use a cloth/towel or two to gently scrub the surface until it shines. Stubborn crust can be removed by using a motorcycle-specific cleaner, like our current favorite S100 Detail & Wax. Do not use harsh chemicals. Window cleaner and dish soap are too strong for use on your helmet. Window cleaner, in particular, can dry out and accelerate the aging of your helmet’s surface. If you ask the people who maintain helmets for a living, the Arai and Shoei support at racing series, they’ll tell you that they just use water and elbow grease. A deep cleaning of your helmet starts out in a similar fashion with placing warm, wet microfiber cloths over the helmet’s exterior to soften the dirt. Start by removing your visor. We’ll wash it separately. If your helmet is extremely dirty, like a mud-covered off-road helmet, don’t be afraid to hold it under running water to flush away the biggest chunks of dirt. (Just be sure to remove any electronics, such as helmet communicators first.) Wiping built-up dirt off a helmet – even with a wet cloth – could scratch the finish. Don’t worry if you get the interior wet, it will dry out, and you can assist it with a fan (never a hair dryer). Use a soft-bristled toothbrush or Q-Tips to clean hard-to-reach places on the helmet. Using microfiber cloths soaked in water and a mild soapy solution (baby shampoo works great), wipe away the dirt. Rinse the cloth frequently. Cruft caught in vents or visor seals can be removed with a soft-bristled toothbrush or Q-Tip. Once the helmet’s surface is clean, dry it off with a clean microfiber cloth. If you want to make sure the helmet is easier to clean in the future, you can give it a coat of carnauba wax or do it in a spray-on manner with S100 Detail & Wax. The Delicate Visor The visor gets special treatment because some manufacturers use special coatings on the interior to prevent fogging, and cleaning this with harsh chemicals could render it useless. With warm weather and mild soap on your fingers wet the visor and then clean it with the lightest touch possible. Rinse it with warm water, and dry it with a clean microfiber cloth. Make sure that you have lots of soap and water to clean your visor. It cuts through the bug guts and acts as a lubricant between your fingers and the visor. If your faceshield uses a Pinlock Visor, you’ll want to wash it the same way, but you’ll need to be even more careful with the easy-to-scratch surface of the Pinlock. Do not dry it with a cloth, though. You can blow the excess water off with a hair dryer set to cool and then let it air dry before remounting it on your face shield. Interior Rejuvenation The easiest way to clean your helmet interior is to remove the liner and padding (if possible) and place it in a mesh garment bag. Then place it in your washing machine on the most delicate setting and wash with Woolite. Take it out of the machine immediately and let it air dry. If you want to speed it up, use a fan to blow air across it. Never use a hair dryer because it could damage the glues holding the liner and padding together. You can wash your helmet’s liner in mild soap in your washing machine on its most delicate cycle. The mesh garment bag helps to protect the parts. Do not put the liner in the dryer or expose it to other sources of heat. If you can’t remove the helmet liner, you can still clean the interior, but it will take significantly longer to dry. You’ll need clean cloths and a bowl of mild soapy warm water. Remove any liner components that you can. Also, remove any electronics, like a communication system. Then with the soapy cloth, begin to scrub the interior of the helmet one section at a time. Don’t be afraid to saturate the liner as you scrub it. After each section is cleaned, scrub it out with clean cloths saturated with clean warm water. You want to get all of the soap out of the liner and the padding. Don’t be afraid to really saturate the liner with clean wet rags as the final step. Using lots of warm, mildly soapy water, scrub the interior liner of your helmet. Then rinse until soap suds no longer bubble up from the liner when it is compressed. To dry the helmet interior, press the liner and padding with clean dry cloths until no more water comes out. Then place the helmet in a place with good air circulation to dry. Helmet manufacturers recommend that you not leave them in the sun to accelerate the process. Instead, put the helmet in front of a fan to increase the airflow over it. Finally, a word of warning about helmet interiors. Only use cleaners that are specifically manufactured for helmets, but be careful, some cleaners are for the exterior only. So, make sure you’ve got the right type of cleaner. We are quite fond of Motorex Helmet Cleaner. Also, don’t be tempted to deodorize by wiping the interior with dryer sheets. It may smell good, but these fabric softeners contain chemicals that may irritate the skin in the concentrated form they are in on the sheets. The fan will help speed up the drying of your helmet’s interior without damaging it, like a hair dryer could. If you take care of the interior and exterior of your helmet, you can keep it looking new for many years. We certainly don’t want to ride around in a ratty-looking helmet, and we’re pretty sure that nobody wants to stick their head in one that smells like old socks. Go ahead and clean your helmet today. We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews and other articles. Learn more about how this works. The post How To Clean A Motorcycle Helmet appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand TourEditor Score: 91.25%Engine 18.5/20Suspension/Handling 14.0/15 Transmission/Clutch 9.5/10Brakes 9.25/10 Instruments/Controls4.5/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 9.0/10 Appearance/Quality 9.5/10Desirability 9.0/10Value 8.0/10Overall Score91.25/100 I’ve ridden touring bikes all across the American continent. From a transcontinental dash on a touring cruiser to multi-day jaunts on Gold Wings to a gravel road to the Arctic Ocean in Prudhoe Bay, AK, I’ve done my time and racked up the miles, but none of the touring motorcycles I’ve ridden appeal to me as much as the sport adventure touring class of motorcycles. They appeal to me and the type of riding that I like to do. With that said, the 2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour is a great example of the species. 2018 Ducati Multistrada 1260 First Ride Review What you get with the Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour is all of the features of the S model (most notably the semi-active Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evo, which allows easy adjustment of suspension baseline parameters) and adds a list of trim and comfort features. First, the Grand Tour gets an exclusive colorway of Sandstone Grey with a 1260 graphic on the fairing combined with a red frame and red highlights on the cast aluminum five-spoke wheels. The GT’s touring chops are augmented by standard hard bags and a centerstand. The rider and passenger seats feature Grand Tour logos. Premium electronic features include heated grips, tire pressure monitoring system, and keyless starting and fuel tank access. Dual LED spotlights increase conspicuity and nighttime visibility.  Other than all of the above listed items, the Grand Tour is all Multistrada 1260 S, and that’s a good thing. The Testastretta 1262cc DVT (Desmodromic Variable Timing) is an engine seemingly without weak points. First, the DVT massages the bottom end torque for more grunt down low, claiming 85% of the engine’s torque is available at 3,500 rpm – a fact that was confirmed by our trip to the MotoGP Werks dyno. With a peak of 89 lb-ft of torque hitting at 7,800 rpm, the 73 lb-ft we recorded makes for 83%. At higher rpm, the valve timing changes to benefit the increased volume of combustibles that need to be moved into and out of the twin cylinders. The 1260 engine hits its 143.5 hp peak at 9,800 rpm. That’s plenty to motivate a claimed 525-lb package. Look at how flat and broad that torque curve is. While you can’t always run the engine out to its rev limit, you can have tons of fun in the mid-range. The engine niceties don’t stop with the power output. The Grand Tour has a valve adjustment interval of 18,000 miles, which is a reasonable distance for a touring bike. The fueling is spot on with nary a hiccup during our test – and I tried to find some abruptness. Additionally, the Ducati Quick Shifter (DQS) handled every situation I tossed at it. From trolling around at low speeds to ripping off high-rpm shifts, I almost never used the clutch after getting the bike rolling. As with all premium modern motorcycles, the Multistrada comes with a suite of electronic aids to help the rider keep the shiny side up. The IMU allows for fine-tuning of the Ducati Wheelie Control and Traction Control through eight levels plus off. Similarly, the Bosch IMU powers the Multistrada’s Cornering ABS and its Electronic Combined Braking System, which links the front and rear brakes in Urban and Touring ride modes and cedes most of its control to the rider in Sport mode. Designed to limit the rear wheel lift effect introduced by the high center-of-gravity and the long stroke of the suspension, the Electronic Combined Braking System can also be varied over a range of adjustments. The 17-inch cast wheels point to the Grand Tour’s street focus, but the Pirelli Scorpion Trail IIs will get you down a dirt road or two without drama. Braking is handled by a pair of 330mm discs squeezed by Brembo M50 calipers. I’ve loved these calipers for so long that I feel guilty for wishing they were Stylemas even though I know they aren’t necessary. Such are the fickle desires of a motojournalist. The master cylinder is a Brembo radial unit with an adjustable lever. Combined, they deliver formidable braking power that is more than capable of stopping the 1260 S with the immediacy that is desired from a sporty adventure tourer. Riding the Grand Tour highlights how well Ducati balanced the needs of long-distance touring riders and sport touring riders. The rider triangle is just about perfect for an all-day horizon chase. Yet, although the seat does tend to lock you into one position, you can lean into a more attack-focused attitude when the road starts to squirm on the map. The handlebar width plays a major role in the bike’s flickability and its willingness to charge into a series of corners with an ease that belies its 525-lb. claimed weight. The Multi feels much shorter than its 62.4-inch wheelbase would imply. In my street-focused ride time with the Grand Tour, the Pirelli Scorpion Trail II tires performed a great impression of sport touring tires, but since my travels typically don’t take me onto any fire roads, I’d swap them for some more dedicated sport touring rubber when these tires were done. With 330mm discs and M50 calipers, the Multistrada stops like it means it. The suspension, with its relation to the riding mode and therefore its ability to be adjusted on the fly, can play a vital role on traversing different kinds of pavement. I spent the bulk of my time in Sport and Touring modes since Urban mode limits the peak horsepower (and who wants that?). Basically, if I wasn’t attacking a winding road, I stuck to Touring. The throttle inputs are softened slightly, and the suspension is more supple for soaking up the broken pavement that you find in many urban centers these days. Interestingly, I also stuck with Touring on bumpy canyon roads. Yes, the softer settings allowed for more chassis pitch during braking and acceleration, but the softer settings do such a great job of soaking up the bumps, making for more pleasant work of those bumpy sections. When it’s over, a couple of clicks of my left thumb and a closing of the throttle has me back in Sport mode. All the information you need right in front of you. When the road straightens out and the rider wants to focus on racking up miles, the touring amenities come into play. As with all Multistradas, there is cruise control. The weather protection provided by the windshield is a good compromise between cooling and still air, but in its lowest position, turbulent air flows straight across the base of my helmet, raising the noise level. On cool days, the heated grips will be appreciated, and if you’re the forgetful type who frequently puts on their gloves before putting the key in the ignition, the wireless key fob is a godsend. You’ll still need to take the key out every time you want to open the saddlebags, though. Rider comfort, though very good overall, takes two big hits with the Grand Tour. First, the seat tends to lock the rider into one position. While the position is quite comfortable, being able to move around on the seat would allow for more leg stretching. If you’re the type of rider who likes to ride with the balls of your feet on the pegs, you might have some issues here. On the right side, as is common on far too many Ducatis, the rider’s heel hits the muffler’s heat shield. On the left, the tang for the centerstand hits the other heel. I commend Ducati for fitting the Grand Tour with a centerstand – and one that doesn’t touch down easily in a corner – having it crowd the rider’s foot is a bit of a bummer. Riders who place the arches of their feet on the pegs will not be bothered by these issues, but their toe sliders might protest a bit. You don’t have to go in a straight line to chase horizons. Our time, though short, with the 2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour reminded us of how much fun the biggest Multistrada is for travel and plotting the shortest distance through a series of corners. The additional features that the Grand Tour package gives over the 1260 S is worth the premium, given how it augments the Multistrada’s touring capabilities. The 2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour is available now for an MSRP of $23,295. 2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour + Highs Killer engine Great brakes Functional and aesthetic interior updates – Sighs Heels of both feet hindered Seat locks you into one position No multi-day rides possible while we had it In Gear Helmet: AGV Sportmodular Helmet $850 Jacket: Dainese Super Speed Textile Jacket $370 Pants: Dainese New Drake Air Textile Pants $260 Gloves: Dainese 4 Stroke EVO Gloves $220 Boots: Dainese Axial D1 Air Boots $530 2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour Specifications Engine Type Ducati Testastretta DVT with Desmodromic Variable Timing, L-Twin cylinder, 4 valves per cylinder, Dual Spark, liquid-cooled Displacement 1,262 cc Bore x Stroke 106 x 71.5 mm Compression Ratio 13.1:1 Transmission 6 gears Fuel System Bosch electronic fuel injection system, elliptical throttle bodies with Ride-by-Wire, equivalent diameter 56 mm Final Drive Chain Clutch Light action, wet, multiplate clutch with hydraulic control. Self-servo action on drive, slipper action on over-run Ignition / Engine Management Bosch EMS with RBW Frame Tubular steel Trellis frame Front Suspension Sachs 48 mm fully adjustable usd forks. Electronic compression and rebound damping adjustment with Ducati Skyhook Suspension Evo (DSS) Rear Suspension Fully adjustable Sachs unit. Electronic compression and rebound damping adjustment. Electronic spring pre-load adjustment with Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evo. Aluminum single-sided swingarm Front Brake 2 x 330 mm semi-floating discs, radially mounted Brembo monobloc Evo M50 4-piston callipers, 2-pad, radial pump with cornering ABS as standard equipment Rear Brake 265 mm disc, 2-piston floating calliper, with cornering ABS as standard equipment Front Wheel 5-spoke Y-shape cast light alloy 3.50″ x 17″ Rear Wheel 5-spoke Y-shaped cast light alloy 6.00″ x 17″ Front Tire Pirelli Scorpion Trail II 120/70 R17 Rear Tire Pirelli Scorpion Trail II 190/55 R17 Silencer Stainless steel muffler with catalytic converter and 2 lambda probes, aluminum tail pipes Rake / Trail 25° / 4.37 in. Wheelbase 62.4 in. Seat Height 32.5 – 33.3 in. Fuel Capacity 5.3 gallons Dry Weight 525 pounds (claimed) The post 2020 Ducati Multistrada 1260 S Grand Tour Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Many, many moons ago, I club raced for five years, and one of my favorite stories from that era involves a high-speed crash in Turn 7 of the big track at Willow Springs. Every Saturday, at the end of the day, expert riders had the chance to sign up for practice starts. Novice racers had these required as part of their school day. So, on the first of the practice starts, during the warmup lap, where we’re trying to get heat in the tires, a novice racer commits the cardinal sin of abruptly chopping his throttle on the back straight where everyone is WFO heading for the ultra-fast Turn 8. He went from motoring away from me on his much larger displacement bike to essentially dropping a high-compression anchor. The result was that I barely had time to cut my throttle before I plowed into him. The impact of the collision pitched his Buell to the pavement with enough force to push the clip-on through the side of the tank, and the bike immediately burst into flames as it slid down the track. I vividly remember sliding through the ball of fire before my world went all ground-sky-ground-sky. When I came to a stop on my hands and knees, I took mental inventory, stood, flipped up my visor and looked down to survey the damage to my leathers only to discover that my arms and legs were on fire! I rolled on the ground and with a little help from the other rider, got the flames extinguished. So, now you know why former EiC Kevin Duke used to occasionally refer to me as Fireball. No, the iXS Flame base layer isn’t slimming, but it will protect you from heat and flame while delivering the comfort that you want when riding. With that experience in my track riding past, you can imagine how I knew I had to get a set of the iXS Flame base layer the moment I saw the press release. While, if you are in the same situation as I was in full leathers, they are hardy enough to protect you as mine did, but if you’re riding in textile gear, the heat and flame retardant nature of the Flame base layer may come in handy in a slide, where friction could melt textile; through contact with a hot exhaust where it, again, melts the textile; or in the highly unlikely event of catching fire, like I did. Constructed of a mixture of viscose, aramid, mondacrylic, and other fibers, the iXS Flame base layer feels like a well-worn set of cotton pajamas – only form-fitting. The design places the seams where they won’t irritate the rider’s skin as they sweat. The nature of the fabric makes it ideal for keeping you warm on cold days and cool on hot ones, and I’ve experienced both on the same day at the KTM 1290 Super Duke R intro where we had a cool, misty morning street ride followed by an afternoon on the track. The fabric’s ability to wick away moisture really does assist in keeping you cool. In the few months I’ve been riding with the iXS Flame base layer, I’ve found only one small niggle. Because the fabric is so soft, it tends to get pushed up my arms and legs when I’m putting a jacket or pants over it. The solution is to hold the sleeve end in my hand when donning a jacket and putting my socks on over the legs for the pants. If you’re shopping for a good base layer, consider adding the iXS Flame shirt and pants to your riding kit. The iXS Flame shirt is available in sizes M-2XL for $89 directly from iXS. Unfortunately, the pants appear to be no longer available on the iXS website. We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews and other articles. Learn more about how this works. The post MO Tested: IXS Flame Heat-Retardant Base Layer Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

As a novice motorcyclist, you’re already well aware that a motorcycle is inherently unstable, and if you don’t intervene on its behalf, it could end up lying on its side. So, what do you do when you find yourself riding on a windy day? With a headwind, you just suck it up and deal with it if you don’t have a windshield. You probably won’t notice a tailwind, but it will extend your stopping distance. You’ll need to learn how to dance with the wind when it blows from the side. The type of motorcycle you’re riding can have some effect on how you experience the wind. Bikes with handlebar-mounted fairings can interact with the wind when it is blowing from certain directions. In this case, slow down until the wind shifts. Sportbikes, with their solid sides, can also be affected by crosswinds. How you feel on a naked bike is largely a factor of the riding position and the direction of the breeze. Headwinds on a naked bike suck. There’s no way around it other than laying down on the tank, flat track-style. Bikes with handlebar-mounted windshields can be adversely affected by wind – particularly with aftermarket windshields. The biggest issues for motorcyclists occur when the wind is blowing from the side. To a novice rider, It feels like it will push you off the road. And it will if you don’t take some action. Fortunately, in most cases, all you need to do is lean the bike into the wind slightly by countersteering. (Don’t know what countersteering is? Read this first.) In a light breeze, the effort is barely perceptible and somewhat automatic. You might not even notice that you are leaning into the wind. However, the key to proficient motorcycling is knowing exactly what you’re doing and why. As the wind speed picks up, your steering input with the windward hand will need to increase. In extremely high winds, you’ll be riding down the highway visibly leaning into the wind, and once you get the hang of it, you can have some fun. How To Countersteer A Motorcycle On days when the wind speed isn’t constant, you must maintain vigilance in order to stay in your lane, modifying your bike’s lean with the wind’s intensity. With a little practice, this will become second nature. However, don’t get overconfident. You still need to watch your surroundings and anticipate how they will affect the wind flow. For example, riding over a bridge on a highway doesn’t look like much, but it is enough to significantly reduce the wind’s force for a moment. If you’re ready, this is no big deal. You just lessen your steering input for a moment. Similarly, on interstates where the road cuts through the hills instead of going over them, the wind intensity can drop to near zero, or it can shift briefly to the opposite direction as you pass through the eddy created by the notch in the hill. Again, this is no big deal – if you’re ready for it. If you’re not, it can be terrifying. Be particularly careful when riding in the mountains on windy days. The shape of the terrain can cause the wind to change directions dramatically with no warning. Hills and large buildings aren’t the only things that can cause the wind to change directions or become turbulent. Passing a large truck can affect the wind in multiple ways. First, as you approach, the truck cuts the wind for you, and you’ll feel yourself being pulled faster into the low-pressure zone behind the truck. If you’re passing on the downwind side, the wind will drop to zero as you are beside the truck, but the thing that seems to catch riders out is that the wind’s force is multiplied as you reach the front of the truck and pass brought the wave of air that it is pushing. On a blustery day in which the direction of the wind is frequently changing, things can get pretty hectic as you react to every shift. In this situation, it might be prudent to slow down. Still, you’re just employing the same technique of leaning the bike into the wind. Motorcycling is about getting out in the elements, and wind is just part of the experience – as long as you know what you’re doing. Photo by Brian J Nelson Riding in windy conditions, like many aspects of motorcycling, is much easier once you understand what you need to do and when you need to do it. Take a day and ride a few hundred miles in the wind, and you’ll have mastered the technique. The post New Rider: Riding A Motorcycle In The Wind appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Triumph announced, and then quickly sold out of a limited edition James Bond-branded version of the Scrambler 1200 XE. Only 250 models are to be produced, and all 30 units allotted to the U.S. have already been nabbed up. For those still curious, the Scrambler 1200 Bond Edition was priced at $18,500, a premium of $3,100 over the regular Scrambler 1200 XE. The 2020 Triumph Scrambler 1200 Bond Edition was created as a promotional tie-in for the 25th James Bond movie, No Time To Die. Thanks to the novel coronavirus, the film’s premiere was pushed from April 10 to Nov. 25, but Triumph decided not to wait and proceeded to release the limited edition model. The Bond series has always had strong automotive tie-ins, most notably with Aston Martin, but it’s somewhat surprising it took until now for there to be a Bond-branded motorcycle. The Bond Edition comes with 007-branded panels, leather seat with embroidered logo and the film series’ iconic gun barrel sequence set as the TFT display’s startup screen. The overall paint scheme is inspired by a Scrambler model ridden by actor Daniel Craig’s Bond in No Time To Die. This includes black anodized high-mounted front fender, matching rear mudguard, black forks, black powder coated swingarm and sprocket cover, plus a grab rail, sump guard and infills all anodized in, you guessed it, black. Other highlights include black-shrouded fog lights, an Arrow exhaust with carbon fiber end caps, a machined front brake reservoir, stainless steel headlight grill and black rear wheel adjusters. Each unit have a numbered plaque on the billet handlebar riser clamp and come with a rucksack and a letter hand-signed by Triumph Chief Executive Officer Nick Bloor. The Triumph Tiger 900 also makes an appearance in No Time To Die, so perhaps there will be another future tie-in model on the way. The post 2020 Triumph Scrambler 1200 Bond Edition Announced appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

As you no doubt know, Motorcycle.com also produces videos to go along with nearly every motorcycle review we publish. So, when the opportunity came along to get our hands on a 360 camera for the first time, we couldn’t say no. Chances are you’ve already seen some footage with the camera in prior reviews, too. Normally, our video guy Sean Matic doesn’t involve himself with the written word, instead focusing his attention on moving pictures of the questionable MO team. But considering how he’s the one with the most “seat time” with the Insta360 OneX camera, we couldn’t think of anyone better to tell you how it works. Here are his impressions. -TS Why 360-degree action cameras? One reason is for virtual reality or VR video. You know, that immersive video experience with special nerd goggles where technology fools you into feeling like you’re actually in a scene – like walking a tight rope 500 feet above the Grand Canyon – while standing in Best Buy. Cool stuff for sure, but not something we do here on the MO Tubes. So why 360 then? It’s a question I asked myself when I first heard 360 cameras were available and creating buzz at the consumer level. Truthfully, the VR world is not one I explored very much as the resident MOron with a camera. However, now that Insta360 sent us a OneX to test, I’m a convert. Get the Flash Player to see this player. What’s Inside More than just a tool for making VR videos, a huge benefit of 360 cameras is the control you have in the post production editing workflow over what the audience views on the conventional 2-dimensional 16×9 screen. Essentially, the audience views whatever you want them to see in a 360-degree area around the camera. The beauty of this for action sports – where things come at you fast and unplanned – is that you can decide after the fact what you want to highlight and share with your audience. Considering the OneX camera uses two lenses, each with a 200-degree field of view, and a Sony CMOS sensor, it’s a fairly streamlined and lightweight device, measuring 115mm x 48mm x 28mm and weighing just 115 grams with a battery installed. It’s not as compact as a GoPro or Sony action camera but, rather, shaped more like a small cell phone. It also doesn’t appear to be as robust should it get accidentally ejected off a mount and take a high speed tumble, though optional cases are available, including a rugged case for action sports and a water-tight case ideal for diving. Never Miss A Moment If you mount a traditional action camera on the front of your race bike and grab the holeshot, only to have some overzealous competitor ram it up your inside and bump you into the dirt, all you will see is an empty track in front of you as you miss the first turn and enter the dirt. Mount that same camera on the back of your BMW GS on your Alaskan adventure to catch your buddies eating your roost behind you, and you might miss capturing the 10-foot tall grizzly bear in the middle of the trail, stopped dead in your tracks. With a 360 camera you can capture all the action with one camera. In the holeshot scenario, you can capture your competitors all around you as you fire down the start straight. When that kamikaze pilot makes his move, you can track his crappy life choice from start to finish and the viewer will get a feel for how much action was going on all around you. Our Alaskan adventure friend could have mounted a 360 camera on the nose of his bike and gotten a perspective of his own face and his mates behind him, then after his eyes got as big as saucers swing the POV around to reveal the grizzly bear in his path. Sure, you could put four action cameras on your bike to cover 360 degrees, but then you’d have to contend with the action coming in and out of the frame of each camera. It’s hard to depict the flexibility of a 360-camera in a two-dimensional photo, but if this were a traditional action camera pointed forward, we would have missed this cool shot. With the 360 camera you can move the POV to follow the action, keeping it centered in frame or let it move in or out of frame if you choose to do a reveal. Then there’s the ease of starting and stopping one camera and handling only one SD card. Additionally, 360 cameras are much more forgiving when it comes to getting the angle just right compared to a conventional action camera because you can always shift the viewer’s perspective a bit if you have the camera tilted too low, too high, or not level with the horizon. Best of all, for us motorcyclists, is the Insta360’s internal stabilization, called Flowstate Stabilization, centered around a six-axis gyroscope not too dissimilar to the Inertial Measurement Units seen on many of today’s sportbikes. Since you’re reading this, you probably know how shaky videos from a motorcycle can be. I can write about how well Flowstate Stabilization works, but it’s a lot easier to just watch the video above and see for yourself. It’s really good, right? Press the big button to start/stop recording, and press the small button to change the mode. Quite simple, really. Using It My first proper test with the Insta360 OneX was mounting it on a special lightweight camera vest, the Glide Gear Medusa Body Harness, giving a POV as if you were looking over my shoulder. The resulting video was great once I watched a few tutorial videos on the Insta360 and realized I needed to download the Insta360 Studio desktop software (Windows and Mac compatible) in order to import media off the micro SD card and convert it to a format my editing software of choice (Final Cut Pro X) could recognize and handle. A word to the wise: for moto video applications it makes life a million times easier to check off lock direction in the Insta360 Studio software before you export, otherwise you will be constantly having to create key frames to keep the POV orientation constant (towards the front of the bike for instance) every time the bike changes orientation. Insta360 Studio also has Flowstate Stabilizationwhich combined with the stitching software almost seamlessly stitches the 360 view together gives impressively smooth video. Recording 5.7k 360 video at 30 frames per second is pretty straight forward. You press the Power/Mode button once to start up the camera and a second time to switch from interval mode to video mode. Check for the camera icon in the fairly basic and small LCD and hit the big round record Start/Stop button. A green light will flash to let you know you’re recording. You can also use the Insta360 OneX app for iPhone or Android to record, preview images, review video and photos, adjust settings, format SD cards, and just about anything else you would need to adjust in camera. You can also record in 4k 50fps and 3k 100fps. If you want a little more control than what the two buttons and a small LCD screen provide, you can also operate the camera via an app. An odd and annoying thing I noticed was the OneX would stop recording if I pressed the Power button on my iPhone to shut off the phone’s screen (assuming the phone was within WiFi distance from the camera). For what I do, filming the other kids having fun riding, all it means is letting the camera get about 30 feet away from my phone so it can lose wireless connection before safely powering down my phone. If I’m using the camera on myself, I just tuck my phone in my pocket and let the screen timeout on its own. Camera control functionality could be a bit more user friendly. More than a few times I found myself having to use the phone app to get the OneX out of Bullet Time mode and back to Video mode. I had accidentally put the OneX into Bullet Time mode by getting something in my button pressing sequence wrong and I could not for the life of me figure out how to get it out of Bullet mode and into video mode. Bullet Time is a feature that lets you spin the OneX above your head on the end of a pole and create a rotating POV around a subject. This kind of thing was previously only possible with multi-camera stop-frame animation. Spending an extra 10 minutes to get your camera to start recording is not a desirable feature in action cameras on a busy shoot or at the start of a race, but with more time operating the camera without the app. should clear that up. Your standard micro-USB cable is all you need for charging. You can pan left or right, tilt up or down, rotate horizon left or right, etc (“set orientation key frames” in videographer lingo) in the Studio software, but I found if you’re going to be editing the 360 video with other, non 360 video content, it’s easier to create your 360 orientation key frames in your editing software in case you want to make changes later. There’s really no point in editing key frames first in Insta360 Studio and then again in your video editing software. However, if you are just making a quick video of only the 360 video itself without music and effects, it might be faster to set your key frames in the Studio app, export and upload to your host website, bypassing the extra steps I take. Downsides There are a few disadvantages to the 360 camera compared to a standard action camera like a GoPro. First is run time/battery life. You only get about an hour of run time from the OneX. Second is shortened record time due to the massive file sizes. These two factors alone make the 360 more of a complement to a traditional action camera rather than a replacement, in my opinion. Unlike the GoPro Hero 8, which records GPS data internally, if you do decide to use the Insta360 as a primary, or sole, camera, motorcyclists might be sad to know GPS recording is only available with an optional external remote control. Occasionally the camera would freeze in the middle of recording and the only solution was opening the cover on the side to remove the battery. Unfortunately, doing so also erases whatever you were recording at the time. Be prepared: 360 files are massive because it records in 5.7k. Don’t confuse 5.7k with 5.7k of on screen resolution – the 5.7k refers to the total resolution of all 360 degrees of video from the two built-in lenses stitched together, you don’t actually see 5.7k lines of resolution when viewing a 16×9 image. Nonetheless, image quality is pretty good, probably about the level of a GoPro Hero 5 set to 2.7k, not at the crisp quality of a GoPro Hero 8. What you gain in coverage of action is well worth the slight step down in image quality, in my opinion. If you do choose to snap a photo with it (or take a screenshot), OneX pics are in 18MP resolution. Photos will likely become useful for real estate agents as its like your own 360 Google Street View. Another disadvantage to keep in mind is file stability doesn’t seem to be the same level of robustness as a standard GoPro, either. More than once I had the camera freeze on me and whatever I was recording was corrupted and unable to be read or imported by the Studio software. Once, I had recorded a fellow racer do a complete 270-degree spin out about 10 feet in front of me exiting turn 3 at Laguna Seca during an AHRMA race. It was a super close call, and I only avoided running into his spinning Daytona 675 by the skin of my teeth. After the race was red flagged, restarted, red flagged again, and finally cancelled, I reviewed the footage on the app in the pits and it was incredible. I was able to pause the video, slow scrub past the incident, and use the touch screen to orient the POV to follow the spinning Daytona and tumbling racer as I passed by. I was excited to get the epic footage in my editing software! I was also glad to learn racer Clint Austin and his Daytona were A-OK and lined up ready to race the next day! As fate would have it, although the OneX indeed caught the action, the camera got disconnected from my laptop while transferring and the file was corrupted and rendered unreadable by the Studio software. My heart sank, as the footage was really something spectacular. I might have lost the cool crash footage from Laguna Seca, but at least I got this amazing shot of Eric Bostrom doing a wheelie past me on his dirt track course. Game Changer While the Insta360 OneX might not last as long on a charge, record as long as a traditional action camera, or have as many frame rate and resolution options, it more than makes up for what you’re giving up in operating times and image quality with its incredible ability to catch just about any and all action that takes place anywhere around it. In a word, or 10, 360 cameras are as game changing to action sports video as compact action cameras were when they came on the scene. And they cost about the same, too; $399.95 for the Insta360 OneX plus tax, and shipping is included if you’re in the lower 48. If you’re planning on using it for more than moto videos, it can do even more. Go to the Insta360 website to learn what else it is capable of. Shop for the Insta360 OneX Camera here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews and other articles. Learn more about how this works. The post MO Tested: Insta360 OneX Camera Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 Kawasaki Z900Editor Score: 90.5%Engine 19.0/20Suspension/Handling 14.0/15 Transmission/Clutch 9.0/10Brakes 8.5/10 Instruments/Controls4.5/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 8.5/10 Appearance/Quality 8.5/10Desirability 9.0/10Value 9.5/10Overall Score90.5/100 We may have done a grave disservice to the Z900. When it was brand new in 2017, we bestowed upon the newly right-sized Kawasaki (bigger than the Z800 but smaller than the Z1000), our coveted Best Standard of the Year award – and that is one dog-eat-dog category. Three years ago we (I) wrote: What’s going on here is a classic Kawasaki tried-and-true inline-Four, sleeved from the Z1000’s 1043cc down to 948cc (via 77mm bores becoming 73.4mm ones) and inhaling through 36mm throttle bodies instead of 38mm ones. A lovely new steel frame is supposed to lop something like 25 pounds off the less-Sugomi-styled package – down to 463 lbs. But the biggest cut came to the bottom line: A Z1000 with ABS is an $11,999 motorcycle. The Z900 ABS is $8,799 ($8,399 no ABS), and it’s hard to put your finger on any area where Kawasaki economized. If the smaller-motored bike is any slower than the bigger Z, you’d be hard pressed to tell anywhere up to 6000 rpm or so; the Z900 feels to have more low-rev torque than the 1000. Could be just the reduced weight at work… but this bike has tons of power right off idle and a nice light clutch that makes it easy to deploy. We’ll have to get to the dyno to get the full scoop, but a lack of power feels like it’s going to be the least of the Z900’s problems (if it has any). Furthermore, as Roderick observed, this is one of the smoothest-running Z naked bikes Kawasaki’s ever produced, with barely a tingle coming through the bar at 5500 rpm and 80 mph. All that still applies. But when the Z900RS appeared the next year, followed by the Z900RS Cafe the year after, we all had our nostalgia pinball flippers so badly tilted that it seems we forgot all about the sweet original Z they were both based upon. And that was just wrong, because now that we’ve gotten over our infatuations with those glamor queens, it’s the Sugomi Z we’ve come back home to, tails between our legs. I have, anyway. For 2020, she’s had a bit of a makeover, a subtle nose job/ tummy tuck that’s taken a little of the edge off the angry, crouching-predator demeanor. And while they were at it, Kawasaki gave the bike bright new LED lights and a 4.3-inch TFT with a Bluetooth chip in it (though I haven’t found the USB port yet – oh, it’s an accessory, $95.95). If you like to ride sporty, they also strengthened the pretty trellis frame around the swingarm pivot area, stiffened up the suspension, spooned on Dunlop’s new Roadsport 2 tires – and, please forgive us baby. Take us back? This is a great do-everything standard performance motorcycle for $8,999. There’s no more power than before, but that’s okay because the 115 our Z makes, at the rear tire, is plenty. Fuelling via our four 36mm throttle bodies is impeccable in either Road or Sport modes (I never tried Rain), and the RS and RS Cafe powerbands, compared to this one, really are a tad lethargic, like Kawasaki added weight to their flywheels. More period correct, I suppose? The Z just wants to rev. It’s happy to roll along smoothly at 2500 rpm all day in sixth, there’s plenty of punch in the midrange – but the 948 cc engine loves to zing past 10k whenever the road opens up, too. Riding in the curves, like we always wind up doing, 115 feels like an almost ideal amount of power as we grab greedy handsfull of power off the corners, mostly trusting KTRC (Kawasaki Traction Control) to have our back. Trustwise, the new bike gets the same Dunlop Roadsport 2 tires we liked so much on the new Suzuki Katana; they too give the new Z a sportier feel than it had before; more agile, quicker to turn and lighter on its feet. The other part is down to Kawasaki making a couple of significant suspension tweaks: The rear spring rate has gone from 99 to 103 Newton meters (76 ft-lbs). In the 41mm fork, rebound damping (left leg adjustable) has been increased from 8 clicks out from fully in to 6 clicks, and spring preload has increased from 3 turns from counterclockwise to 8.25 turns from counterclockwise (also left leg only). All those changes have resulted in a motorcycle that feels decidedly more solid and sharper-edged than before, without really doing away with any of the previous bike’s everyday usability and comfort. There’s more spring support at both ends; the stiffer rear spring keeps the front end more planted all the time – but there’s still really good damping in both directions that deals politely but firmly with big bumps and small. Also, I remember a Z1000 having serious cornering clearance issues one day around Chuckwalla raceway; this Z900 feels like it will have way less of a problem if you take it to the track. The main detriment to comfort with this one is a seat that’s a bit on the thin side; there’s an “Ergo-Fit” seat in the accessories section that adds about an inch more thickness, especially nice for taller peoples. My legs are only 30 inchers, but I can flat-foot this one on both sides, so an extra inch of seat foam wouldn’t be a problem. In any case, when you’re connecting apexes on your favorite road, I don’t recall the previous Z900 being any kind of a slouch, but this new one feels like it might be able to hang with many, way more expensive bikes. With its fat payload of midrange power, really quick handling, new-found grip, serious suspension and sit-up ergonomics, there’s little to hold it back – including its lubricious six-speed gearbox and light-action slip/assist clutch – which you don’t need at all past third gear. Just the tiniest roll-off of the throttle snicks the next gear in. I don’t know that I ever felt the old bike flexing, but whatever they strengthened in the “swingarm pivot area” really does have the new Z feeling rock solid, but like a really light rock: 467.5 lbs is the claimed curb weight, which jibes very closely with the 2017 bike we weighed ourselves. Kawasaki really does have you all figured out, why fight it, 40-year old, 5’11”, semi-married male? During the other 29% and 21% of the time you’ll be surface street and highway commuting (say, is that half the time?), this is a great motorcycle – large enough to see and be seen in traffic, skinny and nimble enough to make quick work of four-wheeled entanglements – and plenty comfortable enough for an hour or two at a stretch. The only person who’s not going to be happy is the passenger, perched up there on the sharp tail of the Sugomi, but research tells us they’ll only be there 14% of the time – a classic design element that may be more feature than bug. Again, even though the engine bolts to that trellis solidly in five places – this is one of the smoothest-running fours we can remember riding, and it’s not just this bike, because we commented likewise on the original 2017 model. With traffic still coronavirused at home, you can crank it up to 6000 rpm and 88 mph, and sail serenely along, at just about the right angle to offset windblast. It’s nice Kawasaki doesn’t make you go green if you don’t wanna, but the blue one will cost you an extra $300. I miss the green stripes on the other wheels. Brakes? Yes: 300mm petal-style discs up front squeezed by vintage yet highly effective Nissin four-piston calipers, and another 250mm disc at the rear. The front has more than enough power to mush your eyeballs onto your faceshield before ABS kicks in; out back it’s a little too easy to get the rear into its ABS threshold, but better that than locking it up midcorner, no? What you don’t get at this bargain price is the latest electronic aids: We’ve got ABS, but not lean-sensitive ABS, because we’ve got no IMU. And while KTRC traction control seems to work fine, it’s not the latest technology. Who cares? It’ll all be outdated next year anyway. If you’re Ready to Race, you’ll need the new KTM 890 Duke or something equally dramatic. What’s kind of nice about Kawasakis like this one is how low-stress and in fact understressed they feel. It’s ready to race but just as happy to tool around. Riding back and forth past Brasscannons’ Canon on a warm day, accelerating briskly and repeatedly up and down through the gears trying to clutch up baby wheelies in second, the temp gauge never exceeded 175, the engine and trans never skipped a beat or missed a shift – and heat management is a complete non-issue. The old inline-F four feels like it could idle smoothly under you til Armageddon if you gave it an IV drip of gasoline, and it’s willing to throw all 115 horses into harness with about 1.5 seconds notice whenever you say the word. (Speaking of wheelies, there’s a nice hump near my house just after a tight right, and I pulled one of the hornest monos of my life with a handful of gas and a dip of the clutch in third gear. It’s just a fun bike to ride and encourages delinquency even in old people.) Does Kawasaki know how to precisely mass-produce internal combustion engines? The 2017 Z900 we dynoed here produced 115.6 hp at 9800 rpm and 68.1 lb-ft of torque at 8000 rpm. At the same time, the new TFT screen is swell and easily legible all the time. Being able to link up the Bluetooth to see who’s calling and texting is nice. Not that I did… Okay I take it back. It got to 186° when we left it idling stationary for a while. There are adjustable levers for both brake and clutch on the handlebars, and a genuine helmet lock right there on the left frame downtube – highly convenient. The new LED light seems really bright when I pull into my garage, and the new LED taillight is cool too. Are you getting the impression I like this one? I do. Looks are completely subjective. I was a harsh critic of the droopy bosomed Z1000, but this one I like way better. The steel trellis weaving in and out of the really nicely finished and tight-fitting bodywork looks sublime and tight, and makes that classic Kawi four-banger the center of attention. If there are flaws or ugly tank seams, they’re at least hidden behind cleverly placed modesty panels… leave the exhaust system alone, please. Parked next to a new Duke 890 and Triumph Street Triple at MotoGP Werks on dyno day, for me the Z stole the show with superior fit and finish. Even Chris Redpath was impressed, especially after riding it on the dyno. Those other two might be a tick quicker around a road course; I don’t think I care. This Z, without a single “R” in its name, will be right up both their Euro tailpipes on the road (it’s not even invited to the track day). For $8,999, the Z is a helluva deal. 2020 Kawasaki Z900 + Highs Suddenly even sportier than before Have you done something to your hair? 115 happy smooooth-running horsepower for $8,999 – Sighs Standard seat’s a bit thin; passengers won’t be for long Bluetooth, but I gotta pay extra for a USB port? Kawasaki gets no respect from coastal elites In Gear Helmet: Arai Corsair X Hayden Laguna Seca $980 Jacket: Vanson AR3 $563 Gloves: Dainese Quanto 4-Stroke Evo $220 Jeans: Reax 215 jeans $169 Boots: Dainese Torque D1 Out $400 2020 Kawasaki Z900 ABS Specifications MSRP $8,999 – 9,299 Engine Type 948 cc liquid-cooled inline-Four cylinder, DOHC, four valves per cylinder Bore and Stroke 73.4 x 56.0mm Compression Ratio 11.8:1 Rear Wheel Horsepower tk hp @ 12,900 rpm Torque tk lb-ft @ 10,900 rpm Transmission 6-speed; slip/assist clutch Final Drive Chain Front Suspension 41mm inverted fork with spring preload and rebound damping adjustability; 4.7 in. travel Rear Suspension Horizontal back-link shock, stepless rebound damping, adjustable spring preload/5.5 in Front Brake Dual 300mm discs; four-piston calipers, ABS Rear Brake 250mm disc; one-piston caliper, ABS Front Tire 120/70-ZR17 Rear Tire 180/55-ZR17 Rake/Trail 24.5 deg/4.1 in Wheelbase 57.3 in. Seat Height 31.5 in. Curb Weight (Claimed) 467.5 lbs (our ’17 model was 469 lbs) Fuel Capacity 4.5 gal. Fuel mileage (observed) 38 mpg Colors Metallic Graphite Gray/Metallic Spark Black, Candy Plasma Blue/Metallic Matte Fusion Silver! Warranty 12 months, transferable, unlimited-mileage limited warranty; extended coverage available with a Kawasaki Protection Plan. We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post 2020 Kawasaki Z900 ABS First Ride Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 Kawasaki KLX300REditor Score: 85.75%Engine 17.0/20Suspension/Handling 13.0/15 Transmission/Clutch 9.0/10Brakes 9.0/10 Instruments/Controls3.0/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 8.75/10 Appearance/Quality 8.0/10Desirability 8.0/10Value 10.0/10Overall Score85.75/100 Remember back in the good ol’ days of 2019 when we were gathering en masse, kissin’ hands and shakin’ babies? I do. Well, way back in September of last year MO had the opportunity to test three new Kawasaki motorcycles: the street-legal KLX230, and the off-road only KLX230R and KLX300R. Shortly after, as is usually the case, my reviews went live on Motorcycle.com to tell you all about the KLX230 and KLX230R. Why wasn’t the KLX300R included? Because I was only able to spend a third of one day riding it and honestly, I believed it deserved a more thorough test because it really is a compelling motorcycle for what I think could be a large audience, and at the low price of $5,499, it becomes even moreso. 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R First Look It’s been a while since Kawasaki had a 300cc trail bike. So long in fact, that some newer riders may not be aware of its long run and popularity in the 1990s through the early 2000s. As interest in trail bikes began to wane and the popularity of sportbikes increased, Kawasaki all but abandoned its off-road lineup, leaving only smaller displacement models like the KLX110 and 140 in production. 2020 Kawasaki KLX230R Review – First Braap 2020 Kawasaki KLX230 Review – First Ride Now that trail bikes, dual-sports, and all sorts of off-road motorcycles are some of the only categories on two wheels seeing an uptick in sales, it makes sense that Kawi would jump back into the game and the 300 is back to lead the KLX-R model range. Nice Package If you remember the KLX300R from the early aughts, you likely note the similarities of the engine, frame, and overall specs. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. The KLX300R has had a long reputation of being a solid platform and now, it’s kind of in a category of one when considering the market. For those outgrowing bikes like the Honda CRF230, Yamaha TT-R230, or Kawasaki’s own KLX230R, the KLX300R makes total sense for a trail bike that offers better performance and more power without being the least bit intimidating. For street riders interested in riding off-road, again, a fantastic option that will be easy for dirt noobs to hop on and feel comfortable from the first push of that fantastic electric start button. Even experienced riders will come away with an appreciation of what the KLX300R is capable of. The KLX300R’s six-speed transmission allows you to keep the revs low during long blasts through wide open areas. Also of note, the touch of engine protection from the welded-on guards on the bottom of the frame. Back to that magic button. The 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R boasts electric start and fuel injection – both things that make living with, riding, and maintaining the new 300 nearly effortless. The 292cc DOHC Single delivers predictable and progressive power across its mid-range and is able to tractor up obstacles fairly easily – within reason. The 34mm throttle body responsible for the bike’s fuel injection is very well metered and incredibly smooth at the throttle. Thumb the starter button and the bike fires up immediately without hesitation and instantly falls into a quiet steady idle. Is that a toolbox, or are you just happy to see me? That big ol’ black piece of plastic hanging off the left side of the subframe is a massive charcoal canister to help the bike pass California’s strict emissions. Thanks to that, and the fitted spark arrestor among other things, the bike is green sticker legal in CA and can be ridden in many areas across the country. Check your local listings. Ergonomically, the bike feels pretty well-suited for 5-foot 8-inch me. The handlebar is four-position adjustable to help dial in the rider triangle for all sorts of rider preferences and sizes. The footpeg to seat ratio feels spot on and transitioning from sitting to standing feels totally natural. The front fairings shrouding the 2.1-gallon fuel tank and radiators aren’t too wide either, allowing the rider to scoot up easily on the bike when trying to get weight onto the front wheel. It’s only the rather tall tank that will inhibit forward movement. The grippy flat seat also allows for plenty of movement aft as well. The 36.4-inch seat height sounds more intimidating than it actually is, as the shock settles a fair amount once mounted. My 30-inch inseam had no issue getting both boots on level ground. The mostly spartan “dash” area includes the power button (with power indicator light), a low fuel light, and an FI warning indicator. The six-speed transmission feels nice and precise and clutch pull at the lever is light and unlikely to cause fatigue for most riders. The one issue I found here wasn’t with the transmission or clutch itself, but rather with the distance between the shift lever and the rather small dated-looking footpegs (probably leftovers from the ’90s). The distance between the two constantly caused accidental upshifts or downshifts which, naturally, came at the most inopportune times. Not only was the distance an issue, but the entire lever is far enough away from the engine that even if you’re not pressing the end of the lever with your toe, you’re likely to hit the lever further back with the inside of your boot. With size 10 motocross boots, I feel I’m probably in the average range for most riders so this is likely to be an issue for a lot of people. A new gearshift lever would be the second aftermarket purchase I would make, after addressing the lack of OE-equipped handguards. As long as you’re not planning to hit the moto track, the KLX300R can handle little jumps all day long. Newer riders, intermediate riders, and folks that are content with cruising will be happy with the KLX300R’s KYB 43mm USD fork (adjustable for compression) and gas-charged piggyback linkage-type shock (adjustable for preload, rebound, and compression), both delivering 11.2 inches of travel. Experienced riders who typically find themselves on slower technical trails will also likely be content with the stock suspenders, though will probably tweak the shock’s settings. Bottoming resistance is also commendable, so long as you’re not hucking it at the motocross track. It’s only once the pace really picks up that the stock suspension starts to feel overwhelmed, otherwise, it delivers a comfy, cushy ride. The petaled discs look sporty and get the job done. The relatively short 56.5-inch wheelbase makes the bike easy to maneuver around on tight trails and the 21/18-inch wheel combo keeps the KLX300R compliant over obstacle-strewn terrain. The Dunlop MX52s also provide great traction, although I’ve noticed they don’t tend to last long in rocky desert environments. At a measured 288 pounds full of liquids, the new 300 isn’t too heavy, but if you’ve been riding lighter bikes (maybe a one with a couple less strokes) and you tip over on this one, you’ll be reminded it isn’t the lightest either. The two-piston caliper paired with a single 270mm disc up front does a great job of getting things slowed down while the rear single-piston caliper gives good modulation at the lever and is plenty powerful to stop its 240mm rotor. The front brake lever also offers some adjustment. The 2.1-gallon tank sits pretty high in the frame and limits how far forward one can scoot up to get weight over the front tire. The bike’s plastics look entirely modern and shroud the other not-so-modern bits. I dig the choice to use the green/black/gold throwback graphics which are also found on the latest KX models. They give the bike a little extra character. All in all, the 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R is a great bike. It never feels overly fast or intimidating, but it can handle technical trails, two-trackers, and single track all day. If all-out performance isn’t what you’re looking for, or if you’re new to riding off-road and/or want a bike that won’t break the bank, the resurgence of Kawi’s KLX300R is an indomitable choice. I mean, come on, for $5,499 everyone should have one in their garage. 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R + Highs CA Green Sticker and USFS legal for year-round riding Fuel injection, electric start and disc brakes all around A great bike all around for a lot of riders – Sighs There are more than a few carryovers from the last time this bike was around Shift lever crowds the left footpeg Unsightly charcoal canister (CA models only) In Gear Helmet: 6D ATR-1 $650 Jersey: Alpinestars Techstar Factory $60 Pants: Alpinestars Techstar Factory $180 Gloves: Alpinestars Techstar $44.95 Goggles: 100% Accuri $45 Armor: Alpinestars Bionic Pro $239.95 Knee Braces: Asterisk Ultra Cell $759.05 Boots: Sidi Crossfire 3 $545 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R Specifications MSRP $5,499 Engine Type 4-Stroke, Liquid-Cooled, DOHC, 4-Valve Single Displacement 292 cc Bore & Stroke 78.0 x 61.2 mm Compression Ratio 11.0:1 Fuel System DFI with 34mm throttle body Ignition Digital DC-CDI Transmission 6-Speed Rake/Trail 26.5°/4.3 inches Front Tire 80/100-21 Rear Tire 100/100-18 Front Suspension 43mm inverted cartridge fork with compression damping adjustment, 11.2 inches of travel Rear Suspension Uni-Trak with adjustable preload, compression and rebound damping adjustment, 11.2 inches of travel Wheelbase 56.5 inches Front Brake 270mm Petal Disc Rear Brake 240mm Petal Disc Fuel Capacity 2.1 gallons Ground Clearance 12.0 / 11.8 (CA Model) inches Seat Height 36.4 inches Curb Weight 288 pounds (CA Model), measured Warranty 6 months Kawasaki Protection Plus 12, 24 or 36 months Colors Lime Green The post 2020 Kawasaki KLX300R Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. 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In a perfect world, you’d probably park your motorcycle in your bedroom, where it’ll be nice and cozy, and well out of harm’s way. But, as we know, the world is not perfect, and many of us are left parking our beloved motorcycles outside, exposed to the elements and even the prying eyes of those with bad intentions. Enter the motorcycle cover. While not as effective in protecting your bike from Mother Nature or vandals as keeping it parked inside, if you have to leave your bike outside, a cover is the next best line of defense. This is your guide to some of the different types. There’s a surprising amount of variety when it comes to motorcycle covers, and while this guide is not intended to cover every single one of them, it should at least open your eyes to what’s available, and maybe even point you in the right direction as to which is right for you. Half Covers Say you commute on your bike, and instead of leaving it exposed to the elements while parked, you’d like to have a clean seat and controls when it’s time to ride again. Half covers are perfect for this. Small, light, and easier to transport, half covers are exactly that – covers that extend from the front to back and only drop down slightly below the seat. See the Oxford Umbratex Cover above, for example. It’s pretty clear the wheels and lower portions of the bike are still exposed, but all the upper bits are protected from the elements. Some covers line the bottom portion with elastic to fit over the bike, while others include elastic and either Velcro or straps to keep the cover secure. Lastly, because motorcycles come in so many different shapes and sizes, half covers, including the Umbratex here, also are available in differing sizes to suit. Shop for the Oxford Umbratex Cover here Scooter Cover Scooters make ideal commuting machines in many areas, but they are also often neglected and left outside – how many old scooters have you seen with faded paint, and decayed, dried-out seats? It doesn’t have to be this way if you invest the $40 in a scooter cover like the Nelson Rigg SC-800 Scooter Cover. The SC-800, like most covers, is made from water-resistant polyester that will also go a long way towards protecting your scooter from the sun’s harmful rays. An elastic bottom will fit snug over your scoot, and grommets at the bottom front and center make it easy to install locks, too. Shop for the Nelson Rigg SC-800 Scooter Cover here Cheap Full Cover If you own a full-size motorcycle, not a scooter, and want cheap full-coverage protection, there are options like the Nelson Rigg Deluxe All Season Cover. For less than $50 you get a lightweight, water-resistant, polyester cover that will fight off the elements. Even though it’s inexpensive, this cover and many like it have heat-resistant panels to protect itself from hot exhaust pipes, and soft liners to not scratch the paint and/or windscreen. Ultimately, you do get what you pay for, and these lightweight covers aren’t well suited for extreme weather conditions and/or heavy usage. So, buyer beware. Shop for the Nelson Rigg Deluxe All Season Cover here Stretch Cover When you want to move up the price scale a little, there are stretch covers like this Oxford Protex Stretch Motorcycle Cover that ranges in price from $100-$140, depending on size. The tight-fitting cover is like a well-fitted suit for your motorcycle and reduces the chances of random dust and debris sneaking in underneath the cover due to, say, an overzealous gardener with a leaf blower. On the outside of this Oxford cover, you’ll find ventilation, reflective panels, and three layers of material. Inside, the soft lining protects the bike’s finish from scratches and water-resistant seams keep the rain away. Shop for the Oxford Protex Stretch Motorcycle Cover here Sportbike Cover Sticking with the well-fitted suit analogy, we all know different motorcycle types have vastly different shapes and lines. If you know you’re only going to have one specific motorcycle to cover – in this case, a sportbike – then covers like the Nelson Rigg Defender Extreme Sport Bike Cover make sense. Its UltraMax polyester is 100% waterproof with electronically taped seams. It also provides maximum UV protection. The elastic lining at the bottom makes for a tight-fitting cover, while vents reduce the chance for condensation. You’ll also find heat-resistant panels to shield against exhaust heat, soft liners to protect windscreens, and grommets at the bottom to fit a cable lock. This specific example comes with a lifetime warranty, too. Not bad for $90. Shop for the Nelson Rigg Defender Extreme Sport Bike Cover here Adventure Cover Like sportbikes, adventure bikes have a unique shape, too. They’re tall, long, and wide (if they’re wearing panniers). Clearly Nelson Rigg can’t let sportbikes have all the covers. So, out comes the DEX-ADV Defender Extreme Adventure Cover. Built to suit the shape of adventure bikes, the DEX-ADV cover literally has all the same features as the sportbike cover we just listed, just with a different shape. Shop for the Nelson Rigg DEX-ADV Defender Extreme Adventure Cover here Full-Size Cover Finally, we come to full-size covers. One look at the photo above and you can likely guess what motorcycle is under the cover. These covers are big, heavy-duty, and able to withstand whatever you have to throw at them – pouring rain, searing heat, gusty winds, whatever. Of course, inside you’ll find soft liners to protect the finish, heat-resistant panels to withstand exhaust heat, and ventilation panels to help water and moisture escape. In the case of this Dowco Guardian Weatherall Plus EZ Zip Motorcycle Cover, the rear zipper makes installation a little easier and gives you access to the saddlebags without the need to remove the whole cover. Shop for the Dowco Guardian Weatherall Plus EZ Zip Motorcycle Cover here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews. Learn more about how this works. The post Motorcycle Cover Buyer’s Guide appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Dear MOby, I spent a couple of hours Sunday morning riding around the Ft. Lauderdale airport. The place is deserted, and the airport roads have lots of curves and elevation changes compared to the rest of South Florida. With no traffic and no cops, it’s a great time to be a motorcyclist. As I rode, I noticed that I consistently lean over further on right-hand turns. Leaning to the right feels completely different to me than left-hand turns. I’ve even noticed my right side chicken-strips are thinner. I am right-handed. One possible explanation is that aside from occasional road trips, I’ve been riding in South Florida for 30 years. The only sweeping turns around here are entrance and exit ramps, which are almost always right-hand turns. Maybe it’s about practice? My questions are: Is this right / left turn bias true for most riders? Does it have anything to do with being right-handed? Aside from riding on roads with curves more often (difficult to do here), is there anything I can do to “balance” my turning skills? Thanks, Meaty Sunshine State Dear Mr. Midrange, I think you answered your own question when you said you mostly only ever turn right, freeway ramps being your only real opportunity to lean in to the subject matter. This is doubly sad, because you’re probably missing out on the great joy of turning left, which is what most riders seem to prefer. Lateral dominance or lateralism, is a thing scientists have studied at great length. You can get a synopsis at Wikipedia, one sentence of which states, “it is not uncommon that people preferring to use the right hand (88.2% of us) prefer to use the left leg, e.g. when using a shovel, kicking a ball, or operating control pedals.” A couple of days ago, we were off on some new KTM Adventures on fire roads, and I completely noticed, again, that I liked it both ways. But turning left with the rear kicked out a bit to the right, always felt more natural, in control, and therefore more fun for right-handed me. In a left (especially at the exit), you’re weighting the outside footpeg (the right one), with the left leg ready to put down –to lead – if needed. Off-road legend and former Cycle World shop steward Jimmy Lewis agrees: “Left is generally easier and from our teaching (Jimmy Lewis Off-Road Riding School) we see that having the right foot (counterweight) on the peg near the brake pedal is the reason. Makes the rider feel safer or more in control. If they begin to fall to the right, riders put the right foot out and lose the slowing control of the brake. When turning left, you can generally do whatever you want with the left foot and not be missing the brake.” Kick the can is one of JL’s drills that shows how to effectively use the rear brake to control the bike. Right-handed surfers and skateboarders ride with their left foot forward. Right-handed boxers lead with their left. I can’t remember if I always stepped off first with my left foot before I was in the army, but I always do now. Is that true of all right-handed people? Robert Buchsbaum says we naturally protect the side we favor, and have a built-in fear of placing that side in harm’s way, which is exactly why most right handed riders are more comfortable turning left and more left handed riders are more comfortable turning right. Wait, is part B true? In all civilized countries, where we drive on the right side of the road, going around a left-hand curve always offers greater sight lines because of the bigger radius of the outside of the bend – and being given more time to see the objective always gives greater confidence, whatever the sport. Going around right-hand bends in the mountains, you’re riding a tighter radius, and you’re always more worried about obstacles because they’ll appear more suddenly, and also because rocks and dirt are more likely to be in the lane closer to the crumbling mountainside. When riding swiftly on curvy roads, turning left is less stressful. On the race track, former Willow Springs champ, Sport Rider action hero and chief instructor at Kevin Schwantz’s Motorcycle School for years, Lance Holst, has a theory: Hanging off to the right, in a right turn, has your right wrist at a more awkward angle that makes it more difficult to operate the throttle and brake. Turning left, with your right hand on top and your arm comfortably resting atop the gas tank, makes fine control inputs easier. Note how Golden Boy Troy is so relaxed here, lounging with throttle hand on the tank, he could easily fall asleep. You can also use the rear brake in left-handers – usually impossible at full lean right. Speaking of Willow Springs champs, Curtis Adams was it nine times – and that is a track with but three lefts and predominantly really fast rights. Does Curtis prefer rights? “It never really mattered to me. I guess I’m lucky in the fact that I’m comfortable crashing going left or right!!” Curtis Adams turning right, at Daytona in Hmmm, now that he brings it up, I crashed hard twice at the turn 2 exit at Willow, and once in turn 8 (luckily on an SRX-6, so not all that fast)… all rights. So, I think I’m going to say I prefer turning left. (Disclaimer: There may be more crashes I have blanked from memory.) Then again, I crashed a ZX-6R in the rain, in a left at Circuit Catalunya (T7), but only because I felt more confident there than in the other corners. The same was true a few years later when I crashed an R1 in T2 at the same track, another left, because I also came over suddenly all over-confident: The Yamaha factory test rider was ahead of me, and Rich Oliver was behind me; surely this is a safe speed for all three of us, on the same bike and tires? Ahhhh, no. (Those were the pre-TC days, and my internal software was less finely calibrated than the other two riders’.) Bob Gregor, veteran LA-based bike mechanic and fellow Ruskin High alum, says “left has always been much easier for me,” and we’re going to have to let Bob have the final word, which is: “After many years of looking at all the crashed bikes that come into shops from a spill, two-thirds of the time it’s on the right side.” Turning left is better for most of us, most of the time. Nine lefts and four rights should straighten you out, like those patches we used to wear to cure “lazy eye.” How to get better at lefts? Florida Trackdays looks like it runs at Homestead Raceway, 63.5 miles south of Ft. Lauderdale. They also do Palm Beach Raceway, 65 miles north, and Jennings GP track, 11 miles northwest. Or, there’s always flat track. There must be a good reason why those guys only go left. Good luck! Direct your motorcycle-related questions to AskMoAnything@motorcycle.com. If you can’t tell the difference between Fake News and real, you’ll be amazed at our depth of knowledge on all matters moto and otherwise. The post Ask MO Anything: Why Do I Like to Turn My Motorcycle Right Better Than Left? appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

The setting is a small Midwestern college, the type that pretty much constitutes its own dot on the map, with brick-paved streets downtown, hardwood shade in the park, and colonial architecture peppered about campus. At its periphery: the house where you are presently sleeping, nestled between manicured quads and second-growth forests, a pastoral acropolis and the amber cornfields beyond. This house is, in contrast, a structure most easily defined as a festering sore bandaged with aluminum siding. Its insulation, for instance, is shredded newspaper. Winter heat circulates via a fan suspended from coat hangers affixed to a stained drop-ceiling above a gas stove with broken igniters. The walls are so rampantly mouse-infested, you’ve resorted to putting an overturned pot with peanut butter on it in the center of the flooded kitchen sink each night – a system devised because it’s easier to run the floating rodents down the disposal than to empty a hundred traps every morning before class. Seriously. On the porch is your blue 1975 Honda CB400F. Beside it sit a half-upholstered couch and a keg floating in ambient-temperature, mouse-free water. The yard appears to have been hit with a polyethylene cluster bomb of red and semi-transparent beer cups. The time is 7:43 am and you cannot ignore the fanatical banging at your front door any longer. You shuffle down the stairs wearing your blue goldfish boxer shorts, nothing more. On the other side of the door is your landlord, and she is loud. She reminds you that city fire code prohibits upholstered, “indoor” furniture from being stored overnight on porches. You are also informed that it is against the law to park a motorcycle on the porch. Any kind of outdoor party is in violation of your lease agreement. And she has a good mind to go through the house and see how many sleeping people, in excess of the five listed on the lease, are residing there illegally. None of this bothers you, and it’s not because your name is one of those absent from the lease. What bothers you is that this angry fat woman’s weasely little husband is picking up beer cups and setting them on your 1975 CB400F, albeit with its dented tank and Heli-Coiled cam chain tensioner, cracked side cover, missing side stand and rust spot on cylinder #2 of its gracefully curved 4-1 exhaust. He’s picking up both the red and semi-transparent varieties, making concentric stacks and arraying these stacks buffet-style across your bike’s blue tank and aftermarket (but still very nice) seat cover. You remove the cups and place them on the cement. Your landlord questions if you are, in fact, listed on the lease. Her husband puts another cup on your seat. It is all you can do to keep from beating the achromatic little twerp senseless on the spot. I am certain that, because by virtue of the fact that you are reading Motorcycle.com right now, we probably share an opinion about motorcycles and beer cups. And maybe, by chance, you read a feature that appeared in Cycle World a few years ago, one in which I examined the reasons why road racers and track day riders let off the throttle and get on the brakes earlier than they need to; in it I provided statistical evidence to support the notion that the average rider’s most pressing concerns while screaming down a straightaway toward a hairpin are monetary, and hinted, oh-so-subtly, that some of these survey respondents might be less than fully composed, or even wimps, by holding myself up as a prime offender, the most egregious exemplar of such cheapskate behavior. Well, if you happened to miss that article, then good. I got it almost completely wrong. It isn’t about the money; money was just an easy way for me to phrase the survey question. It’s about the way we personify our bikes. To stack beer cups on a bike is to disrespect it, not like a locker room mom joke, but like a midfield loogie to the forehead. And out of a sense of loyalty, we will not have our bikes disrespected. Furthermore, we will not betray them through inattention or negligence: i.e., by crashing them ourselves. Another anecdote in support of this illogical animation theory: You’re back in school, again, three years later, and one afternoon your rich roommate rolls home on a new BMW R1200C – $17,000 in 1999, or there about, with all the aftermarket extras – and your initial impression is that the bike is ridiculous and that your roommate is the biggest tool bag in the world. A few minutes later, he lets you ride it. Yeah… Okay. Maybe he’s not so dumb… The deal that transpires is that as long as you download a manual and perform the service according to schedule, you can ride it whenever you want. You subsequently put thousands of miles on that bike, and it doesn’t take long for the calculations to begin. At its projected rate of depreciation, you’ll be able to afford a similar bike in about a decade. Exactly ten years later you buy one off Ebay.com without a test ride and hate it. You’re older, the James Bond thing has worn off, and what you’re stuck with is a geriatric highway tractor. The rake makes 4-way stops in town a total pain, but trying to get a BMW dealer to reset an ABS2 fault and supply you with the code – a two-minute job for which you are willing to pay an hour’s dealer-rate labor – is all but impossible without hemorrhaging an additional $300+ for fluids you can drain, change and/or bleed yourself, and these details alone are enough to plant a real seed of animosity for this lethargic Geritol bike and the hoighty-toighty Teutonic outfit that assembled it. Four years elapse before you finally embark on a real cross-county trip, sans ABS. You load it up and start out with high hopes in 96° F heat, and soon your head is cooking so bad you are stopping at gas stations to pack your helmet liner with ice. In Indiana, you and your bike narrowly escape death when a semi smashes into the truck in front of you at a poorly marked construction site. You take US96 through southern, lunar-landscape Kansas, nearly lose consciousness from sunburn and boredom, and squat in the bike’s late-afternoon shadow while a highway patrolman runs your license because you mistakenly slalomed road cones in an attempt to break the monotony. Later that same day, you try to race a storm the extra 39 miles between Sheridan Lake (pop. 66, no hotel) and Eads, Colorado, (pop. 609, one hotel) and lose badly, being blown five feet at times by sideways sheets of rain on a rutted highway in the dark. It is while gurgling along at better than 95mph in an attempt to evade phantom tornados amassing in the blackness that you first speak to this machine, and when you finally cross a muddy semi parking area with puddles so deep they submerge your exhaust, to the applause and upheld Busch Lights of the truck drivers assembled under the hotel awning, you mentally thank it. Because just about everyone who has ever raced has, at some point, whispered “Come on… come on…” Who were they talking to? A machine? One last experiment: Imagine hitting an apple with a sledgehammer. No problem, right? A couple of guys named “Gallagher” have actually made a pretty good living at it. Alright, now chloroform a hummingbird and try to do the same thing. Not so easy, huh? Would it be such a stretch to extend this analogy to a Hyosung CDI box and a Desmodromic valve assembly? Sure, the CDI box is complex, but there is just something about the human psyche that craves precision mechanics. In an age where engine, brake and suspension performance is becoming more algorithm-reliant every day, timing belt covers are getting lost, bevel gears are having windows installed and dry clutches are getting a little better look at the scenery for good reason. Bimotas are more than just the motorcycling equivalent of a Prada handbag; they’re objectively neat. Motorcycles are unique because they are covered with neat stuff that you can see, like blown-up hummingbirds with transparent wings and metabolic clockwork scaled such that one can appreciate them without tweezers and a microscope. Stuff that we can all maintain and polish and admire without getting bogged down in too much of an ontological quagmire about who made it. Because guys and gals just like us did. They’re complex and beautiful, yet we can still turn a wrench on them when we feel the need, and maybe that is something fairly rare. Forget lazy man’s Zen, what we’ve got here is mortal man’s stab at omnipotence… Once again, none of this has anything to do with money. It’s about time and pride; if you’ve designed it or fixed it or in some way maintained it, you’re a part of it. So when I talk about not wanting to crash my crappy old Honda CBR400RR at the track, it’s about more than repair costs and a perpetually disgruntled wife. It’s about gear-driven overhead cams and round headlights and graphics in hues that can be found nowhere else on Earth, save in faded catalogs of early 1990s ski clothes. It’s about loyalty to the 400cc Honda offspring of a bike I rode to class every day in college. It’s about the ongoing tension between an assembly of physical stuff that is easily replicated and a clutter of intangible things that most certainly are not. “Monetary considerations / repair costs” is just an easy way to say it. I knew that when I wrote the Cycle World survey, and respondents knew that when they filled it out – an inside joke employed as a rhetorical crutch by a lazy man with limited verbal skills and a modicum of character space in which to operate. Just two words, a backslash, then two more words – not much of an explanation, but we’re all riders here. You probably know these stories better than I do. The post Then Again, Maybe It’s Not All About the Money appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

When you think of a 1000cc Honda V-Twin sportbike from the start of the millennium, what comes to mind? Naturally, it’s the VTR1000F, right? Wait, what’s that? You’re thinking of the RC51? Well, Micky Garneau wasn’t. Granted he was looking for a street bike, but the time, effort, and money he’s put into his VTR1000F Firestorm, otherwise known as the Superhawk in the US, rivals that of many racebike builds we’ve seen. Here’s Part 1 of Micky’s bike build. The OCMD Chronicles It’s referred to as OCMD, an abbreviation of Obsessive-Compulsive Modding Disorder. You won’t find it in any Compendium of the American Psychiatric Association, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist. So, “what is OCMD?”, you ask. Well, to make a long story short, it’s an affliction that compels its victim to embark on a virtually endless process of “modding” to a specific object, in this case, a motorcycle. I bought my VTR used (with 15,000 km) in February of 2001, without a test ride (such was my faith in the unanimity of the various reviews I had read). Being in the throes of winter in Canada, I was counting the days until I could throw a leg over it. When Old Man Winter finally decided to aestivate, the moment of truth had arrived; I had never ridden a V-twin before and was not sure what to expect, to be honest. Off I went and my initial reaction was one of disappointment, for nowhere to be found was the rabid surge of acceleration I had expected from a literbike. It was compact and agile, but it seemed… slow. And so began my quest to make one medium metallic blue Honda VTR1000F the bike I hoped it to be. Pre-OCMD… Needless to say, it’s evolved quite a bit in 19 years and over 260,000 km (160,000 miles). Engine Following my initial mild disappointment at power quantity and delivery, I set about bringing it more in-line with my expectations. The list of mods has been plentiful and the road has been long, and at times bumpy. Of course, lessons were learned along the way, leading me down the path to my current set-up: – 99 mm (1mm O/S) JE forged pistons (claimed 11.5:1 compression ratio) with moly skirt coating – custom Carrillo conrods – balanced crankshaft – lightened flywheel (-2.6 lb) – ported cases (to improve internal airflow and reduce parasitic losses); in an attempt to further reduce parasitic drag, the two crankcase breathers have been routed together to a single Krankvent valve, which helps to create a slight partial vacuum in the sump, reducing drag while also improving ring sealing – ported and decked (0.015″) heads; by my calculations, compression is up to just shy of 12:1, a significant jump from the stock 9.4:1 – Yoshimura Stage 1 intake cam (+5 degrees duration, +0.8mm lift) and OEM exhaust cam; lobe centers are indexed at 104 deg. intake and 107.5 exhaust, producing 36 degrees of overlap (stock is 35) – DLC-coated valve buckets – ceramic water pump bearing (for reduced friction) I am unable to provide an accurate power figure as the bike has not been dynoed in its present tune. The last dyno run, which dates back a few years, was done with an engine whose calibration was significantly inferior in a few key areas. For the record, the last readings were 123 hp and 77 lb-ft of torque. The current engine tune is noticeably more potent and I can conservatively (but confidently) estimate it’s pushing over 125 hp and 80 lb-ft of twisting force. To give that power slightly more vigor yet, the stock (tall) gearing (16/41) was lowered slightly (to 15/40, a drop of about 4%), adding a bit more zip without raising cruising rpm to excessive levels. “V-twin inside” indeed! The heavily revised mill spools up with surprising quickness and smoothness, serving up copious amounts of instantaneous torque regardless of engine speed; chronic downshifters need not apply! Intake Freed of the obligation to meet stringent EPA sound requirements, to say nothing of production cost-cutting measures, I was able to greatly improve airflow into the twin jugs via extensive airbox modification. Capping off mods to the lower portion of the box, a heat reflection film was applied to the underside (as well as the carburetor fuel bowl exteriors), helping to diminish the intake charge density-reduction effect from the heat radiated by the engine. The OEM airbox bottom on the left, the modded version on the right. As you can clearly tell, the airbox was emptied of all internal plumbing (ie. crankcase venting tubes and chamber), increasing its effective volume. It was also expanded where possible (via the removal of the venting tube mounts and a re-shaping/expansion of the cavity in the upper right corner). Finally, a 10 mm spacer was added to lift the lid, the end result of the combined efforts being an approximate 1.5 L effective gain. On the topside, the intake snorkel was dispensed with and the filter element was moved from the inside (ie. a blade filter) of the box directly into the lid, dramatically increasing air entry area. This (and the aforementioned spacer) also helped to dramatically open up space in the critical area above the velocity stack bell mouths, as well as creating a direct path into the stacks. Why is this important? In one of my many Google research sessions, I stumbled across some information that laid out the case for the critical importance of free space in the area immediately above the velocity stack bell mouth. More specifically, a testimonial from a gentleman who did work on Porsche racing engines indicated a gain of over 3% in engine power from freeing up the area 5 cm above and 2 cm beside the bell-mouth openings. The directness of the intake air path is also critical and some may recall that Aprilia engineers paid particular attention to this very element when redesigning the RSV4 airbox for the 2015 model-year. The stack are billet pieces, to which I adapted a set of custom Boyesen X-Wing replicas fabricated from sections of brass plate, these essentially converting the Keihin 48 mm CV carbs into two-barrel units. The product of a chronic OCMD episode, it turns out these units work extremely well, the engine being noticeably stronger than before at partial-throttle settings. Who doesn’t like a successful experiment? Further downwind, the carb throats were matched to the rubber boot and intake port, ensuring a smooth airflow free of any unwanted turbulence. Breathe, baby, breathe! The carbs received some attention too, including needles by HRC (Honda Racing Corp). The slides use the stock two-hole arrangement (numerous other configurations have been tried). Slide springs are by Dynojet, these being shorter and lighter than stock. Fuel screws are custom made longer units that can be easily adjusted by hand. Finally, both the main jet and pilot circuits are fitted with Flo-Commander units, these evening out and controlling airflow into their respective air jets. More importantly, they allow quick and virtually infinite fine-tuning of the jetting, a handy feature to quickly adjust for the temperature variations one encounters in Montreal, Quebec. They were shipped to Factory Pro to have a set of their High Dispersal needle jets pressed in. These are said to greatly improve fuel atomization and a close inspection of the engine running with the airbox lid off reveals the claims to be true. The last pieces of the puzzle are an HRC 1/6-turn throttle tube for quick response and a Vista-Cruise throttle-lock for short-term relief on long rides. The front cylinder velocity stack is from Moriwaki (rear left in picture) and the rear cylinder gets a longer unit from HPower (rear right in picture). These were selected for their positive contributions to mid-range power. Exhaust The first exhaust modification consisted of replacing the stock cans with a set of Micros slip-ons. These were eventually replaced when the urge to put a 2-1 system to the test got the best of me (I still dream of getting my hands on a lovely and lightweight Yamamoto titanium 2-1 full system but have all but given up on the possibility of it ever coming to fruition). A fellow superhawkforum member (who resides in Europe) alerted me to a pristine Akrapovic full system for sale on the German eBay site. A successful bid was submitted and, after some harrowing days which included a personal intervention from said forum member’s law enforcement officer sibling, the Akra finally showed up. It was equipped with low-mount link pipes but I have since bought high-mount links and the requisite carbon supports. However, these remain in storage as I like to keep the passenger pegs handy to take my daughter for the occasional ride. I ended up getting the system coated with a black heat retention coating, augmented with heat wrapping. This helps to not only isolate the sump from the heat emanating from the front downpipe, but it also keeps heat in the pipes to help improve gas flow and scavenging. A renowned engine builder tasked with doing development work on the then-new VTR for Moriwaki noted a 4 hp gain (on dyno) from proper heat wrapping of the entire exhaust system. Transmission The stock VTR has decent, but not stellar shifting. As the First Law of OCMD clearly states “when there is room for improvement it must be acted upon.” This had to change. So, the transmission was treated to a complete Factory Pro shift kit, consisting of shift star and detent arm. Hyperplate aluminum clutch plates (hard anodized and cryogenically treated) took the place of the OEM steels (for weight savings) and Barnett springs help keep things from slipping. The stock shift lever was replaced with a billet unit from Daugherty Motorsports (DMr). The original pivot bushing was replaced with a needle bearing for both tighter and more fluid action. A Woodcraft folding lever tip was added for added protection in case of a fall-over. The shift linkage heim joints were replaced with high-end versions which are significantly tighter than the stock units. Also, a shifter shaft support (fit with a needle bearing) was recently added to remove any remaining play in the system. Cooling system The VTR is borderline thermally-challenged in stock form, a side-effect of Honda’s decision to equip it with side-mounted radiators. While this design helps contribute to the bike’s trademark slim profile, it comes with a significant downside in that it counts on a pressure differential created outside the lateral air scoops to pull air through the rads for cooling. This pressure differential is speed-dependent, so the VTR struggles to stay cool at anything below highway speeds. Its ability to cool is also put to the test when outside temperatures start to climb. This is true with a stock 9.4:1 compression ratio, and so one need not be a specialist in thermodynamics to know that upping the internal squeeze ratio to roughly 12:1 could play to its Achilles Heel. So, in order to provide additional cooling capacity, the stock two-row oil cooler was dispensed in favor of a larger four-row unit from a Honda EX400 quad. The replacement was not a straight bolt-on, however as one of the inlets was angled at 45-degrees and so had to be rotated at a local radiator shop. Upping the engine’s compression ratio creates heat, so many avenues that could potentially help evacuate it more efficiently were explored. One that was acted upon was the insertion of a finned inline cooler (designed for a Polaris RZR 900 UTV) mid-way into the lower rad hose. The quest for cooling efficiency also led to the replacement of the stock coolant fan with a high capacity SPAL 5.2″ pusher fan. As an added bonus, fan replacement and removal of the stock shroud netted a weight loss of almost one pound. Not comfortable with seeing the analog temperature gauge creep up on occasion (desperately waiting for the fan to kick on automatically), I installed a manual fan switch, allowing me to proactively turn it on. Finally, the stock rubber hoses were replaced with blue Samco (silicone) hoses, this mostly for aesthetic and durability considerations. Electronics With its carbureted engine and absence of any hint of rider aids, the VTR is definitely more analog than digital. There is still room for OCMD play in moving electrons around and an HRC ignition control module (with no rev-limiter… don’t ask!) controls the spark. The stock coil packs and high-tension leads were eventually replaced with OEM stick coils from a CBR600RR. These were eventually led out to pasture as well, replaced with Takai Racing Weapon-X coils, again CBR600RR models. The OEM “chin fairing” was dispensed with partly for aesthetic reasons, but mostly to provide the engines cases and sump better access to cooling air (as an added bonus, it shed 0.7 lbs of weight too). This, however, left the oil filter exposed (and vulnerable), so a carbon fiber oil filter protector originally designed for a CB1000R was fitted to address the issue. At some point, I’ll get around to having a set of custom, braided oil cooler lines made up. The stock (and problematic) shunt-style rectifier-regulator was first replaced with a more reliable “mosfet” type before finally giving way to a series-type unit (Shindengen SH847AA) from a late-model Suzuki V-Strom. Why the change? My research indicated the series version was more accurate and reliable, but even more importantly, its design allows the stator to only provide the current necessary. This reduces the load on the stator, reducing its temperature and helping to improve its durability. It also reduces load on the engine, freeing up power to drive the motorcycle forward instead of creating energy that will only be shed as heat by the regulator. Less heat, less drag, what’s not to like? To keep a close eye on the charging system, an LED voltage monitor has been installed in the instrument cluster, helping to easily monitor any changes in the system’s status and operation. LED lighting also found its way into the headlight (Cyclops 3800 Lumens H4 replacement LED kit), the front turn signals (by Proton), and taillight (with integrated turn flashers). Better visibility, unlimited lifespan, and reduced energy draw, it’s all good. Lastly, the cherry on the sundae was the addition of a HealTech QuickShifter, the unit’s ignition-cutting design making it adaptable to carbureted engines. Quickly adjustable via a smartphone app, it gives flawless performance when called upon. There’s a lot more to Micky’s Superhawk build. A lot more. Stay tuned for Part 2 of this story next week. We’re suckers for nice photos and descriptive words and reasonably decent pics of your favorite motorcycle, or maybe just your most memorable one for all the wrong reasons? Send yours to contact@motorcycle.com, title it “Readers’ Rides,” and see yourself in this spot one of these weeks. The post Reader’s Rides: 1999 Honda VTR1000F Firestorm – Part 1 appeared first on Motorcycle.com. 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Yes! I mean No! The correct answer is maybe. It all depends on if you care about money at all, the love of which is the root of all evil. If you’re not worried about your income stream or getting the absolute best deal on a new bike, now is as good a time to buy as any and better than most since it’s springtime, and all the pretty new horses are out! The conventional wisdom this spring seems to be that with the global pandemic going on, manufacturers and dealers are hurting for business and will bow and scrape for your low-ball offer. Maybe they will. It all depends. You’ve got your ideas about what the future will look like and so does your dealer. Just like investing in the stock market (investing in anything, really), it’s all about walking that fine line between fear and greed. If you believe the government is doing the right thing by “opening up the economy,” that the pandemic will soon be in remission and all will soon be right with the world again (or if you believe the whole thing was way overblown to begin with), then you probably want to beat the rush, get in there now and get a new bike before they’re all sold out – especially if you can find a dealer who believes the opposite, that the downturn will continue and wants to move inventory now. A positive outlook for the future would include the idea that, once the crisis has passed, many people will have learned how cool it is to work from home, that they’ll barely need a car or to put gas in the one they already have, that they’ll fly off less to distant holidays – and all that increased cash flow and freedom should totally stimulate sales of all kinds of feel-good items including new motorcycles. No more globe-trotting for us for a while… sad. A’course if you had a new bike you could ride to Todos Santos and sleep under a palapa. For their part, bike manufacturers and dealers are doing their best to make the transaction as painless and socially-distant as possible. Many OEMs, including Kawasaki, Indian and Yamaha to name just three, have rolled out programs like Indian’s Click.Deliver.Ride. deal, which lets you haggle, purchase, and accessorize completely online, then have your new bike dropped at your doorstep. Meanwhile, the U.S. Treasury is printing greenbacks at record pace in an attempt to forestall economic collapse. Interest rates were already at historic lows following rate cuts last year to keep the economy juiced; now they’re even lower (yours truly just refinanced his mortgage down to 2.75%!). Other conventional wisdom used to hold that paying cash for things like motorcycles was always the best way to go: Now that borrowing money is almost free, it definitely pays to have a look at manufacturers’ financing offers (or possibly your bank or better yet, credit union). The fiscally astute use OPM (other peoples’ money) whenever it pencils out. Every manufacturer seems to be offering deals right now; then again, when aren’t they? Now more than usual. Since I’m bumping around on Indian’s website, I see they’re offering “no payments till November” on what looks like all their models. That’s quite the test ride. You’ll need a down payment, or a trade, but after that you’re looking at just 1.99% over five years. Indian makes it nicely transparent right on their site: “Example: $13,499 financed at 1.99% APR over 60 months = 60 monthly payments of $212.89; financed amount of $12,149 with $1,350 down payment, total cost of borrowing of $624.50 and a total obligation of $12,773.60.” Paying $624 to borrow $13.5K for five years is, historically, ridiculously cheap. Park the theoretical $12K you didn’t spend in an index fund for five years, and if you get an 8% annual return (it was easily doable there for a while), you’ll have $17,632 according to the gub’mints calculator. You just made $5000 by using Indian financing. For lots of younger riders, the problem with dealer financing is going to be the requirement to have comprehensive insurance, but if you can swing that, it seems like nearly all the manufacturers are offering deals so sweet, even expensive insurance might be worth it. Oh yeah, you’re probably going to need top-notch credit to get the 1.99% rate. But it never hurts to apply, and it lets the dealer know you’re serious. Also, they’ve been selling cars with 0% financing for years. I wouldn’t be surprised to see that extend to motorcycles if it already hasn’t. I didn’t check every manufacturer’s site. Ryan Burns, who sees the glass as refillable at the Fogarty Replica’s Pebble Beach coming-out party, might be able to swing the payments, but probably not the insurance. Think of 1.9% financing as practically an open bar. Triumph makes nice motorcycles too. Here’s its online deal: For the month of May, Triumph is offering customers their choice of outstanding incentive options on the purchase of new Triumph motorcycles – up to $1,200 in Triumph Cash available on select models OR special financing available as low as 1.99% APR. Other options include super low monthly payments with Triumph Triple Financing (including ability to combine with Triumph Cash incentive on MY19 & prior Street Twin and Street Triple models) OR special NO money down / NO interest / NO payments until October 1. Finally, as an additional offer for adventure-minded enthusiasts, every new model- year 2019 and prior Tiger 1200/Explorer purchase receives a FREE pannier set. It’s the perfect way to kick off your own summer of adventure on a brand new Triumph motorcycle! Offers valid through May 31. But the best reason to finance instead of buying with YOM (your own money) is that if the best-case scenario V-shaped recovery the government is currently predicting turns out to be less rosy, and you do wind up losing your income stream, you can always, ahh, just give the bike back. Your credit will be dinged for a while, but the bank will get over it. They really do depend on all of us to do our duty and buy more stuff. And in this corner… Our Facebook friend James Torongo, who actually sounds like he knows what he’s typing about (possibly because he’s a retired VP of Finance who spent 45 years in commercial manufacturing credit and cash management and a four-time ‘Economic Forecaster of the Year’ award winner), speaks of demand shock – a significantly lower and sustained lack of demand. No matter what the supply-side economists currently in power believe, a lack of demand is big trouble. James writes: “When 70% of GNP is made up of consumer spending, you have the makings of an economic depression whenever demand tanks. Think of the debt-heavy companies now in trouble; many will fail and their workers will be unemployed with ever-shrinking employment opportunities, thus a self-feeding drop in demand. Supply side neo-liberal policies have brought us here over the last 40 years.” “The chance that prices will drop seems much more likely than any kind of upward movement,” James continues. “The bike business was having trouble before COVID 19, and with the economic numbers looking very bad, and the chance of a V-shaped recovery doubtful to all but the economically uneducated among us, I would wait to buy. I expect used prices to drop and continue dropping for many months, and new prices to be steeply discounted. Back in 2009 I bought a brand new CBR1000RR for $7500 out the door. We have more debt now, in all forms, than in 2008, by a very significant amount, and this downturn might be a lot worse and last a lot longer.” Just like nobody knows for certain how the pandemic will play out, nobody knows either how long it will suppress the economy – and a lot of smart people are of the opinion it could drag on far longer than the US’ official projections. Lawrence Alan Kudlow is Director of the United States National Economic Council and President Trump’s chief economic adviser. Kudlow held a similar position in the Bush II administration in December, 2007, when he said, “The recession debate is over. It’s not gonna happen. Time to move on. At a bare minimum, we are looking at Goldilocks 2.0. (And that’s a minimum). The Bush boom is alive and well. It’s finishing up its sixth splendid year with many more years to come.” (Bloomberg) As you may recall, that’s not precisely how it played out. This time, the economy’s already taken a bigger hit than at any time since the Great Depression. When the stock market tanked in 1929, it kept tanking, in fits and starts, until 1932, and the country – the world in fact – didn’t recover until WW2. (Happy V-E Day, by the way!) By Encik Tekateki – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, This morning, we read in Politico: “The U.S. economy is sitting in its deepest hole since the Great Depression, with more than 33 million Americans losing their jobs in just seven weeks and an unemployment rate now at 14.7 percent — and likely to rise to around 20 percent — under the weight of the coronavirus pandemic…. And it’s likely to take years, perhaps even much of the next decade, to dig out.” In the final analysis… Pick which side you’re on, the pollyannas or the doom-and-gloomers, but it really doesn’t much matter either way. The fact is it seems like you can get a great deal right now on a new motorcycle, depending on what model you’re after and what mood your dealer is in, though it’s equally true that by waiting a bit longer you might get an even better deal. But that’s kind of betting against the home team, and it could mean another summer without the bike of your dreams. While you’re dithering… You can’t put a price on love, can you? If the world economy is going to collapse or the pandemic is going to take you home to Jesus, at least you’ll get a summer of great riding in. And if you swing one of those no-payments ’til November deals, how can you lose? If it all goes to hell, the joke will be on the bank. “But this long run is a misleading guide to current affairs. In the long run we are all dead. Economists set themselves too easy, too useless a task, if in tempestuous seasons they can only tell us, that when the storm is long past, the ocean is flat again.” —John Maynard Keynes I’m still a big fan of buying used vehicles, but that’s always been mostly out of necessity in my income bracket, and has become ingrained. As a guy who’s been fortunate enough to ride all the new stuff for the last bunch of years, though, I have to say these last few have been truly golden, and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy new today – especially at 1.9% – if I didn’t always get to borrow new motorcycles. Electronics have transformed the game: lean-sensitive ABS, traction control, cruise control – it’s all magic, and very likely will save your bacon at some point, as well as enhance every ride. You Need to Go Places In closing, our friend Steve Natt offers this piece of unassailable wisdom: “You still need to go places. Until there is a vaccine or treatment for this fucking virus, public transportation and Uber are no good: This marks the first time in the history of mankind that riding a motorcycle is actually safer than the alternatives. You might as well go with the new motorcycle.” The post Is Now the Time to Buy a New Motorcycle? appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

Dear MOby, With my state softening the restrictions of the Coronavirus lockdown, I decided to get my bike ready for a weekend spin. But all I got when I turned on my bike and pressed the starter was a click-click. Yeah, I know I should have a smart charger, but I’m cheap. Is it safe to jumpstart my motorcycle from my car? Powerless in Piedmont, Sparky Dear Sparky, You’re right that you should have a battery charger. They really aren’t that expensive when you consider how much longer you can make your battery last when using one regularly. You’ve got a spare $20, don’t you? Here’s our handy Battery Charger Buyer’s Guide. It should have what you need for future motorcycle storage. If you use a smart battery charger, your motorcycle’s battery will last longer, and you’ll never hear the dreaded click-click, like our friend Sparky. For years, we were told that you should never jump a motorcycle battery from a car battery because they are bigger and pack a high amperage wallop that could damage the delicate moto-battery. Well, in recent years, I began to feel that this was…what’s the technical term…hooey. The advent and popularity of the compact lithium battery boosters made me suspect as much. After all, we’d have heard by now if these high-amperage batteries were blowing up motorcycles during jumpstarts. Still, I decided to poke around and ask some industry friends about this. Take an extra 30 seconds to connect your battery to a charger after you ride. The life you save could be your battery’s. Yuasa, which is the biggest motorcycle battery manufacturer we know of, says on its website: “Motorcycle batteries can be jump started from another motorcycle, car battery, or portable battery jump starter.” Well, that’s good for the heavy, old lead-acid batteries. What about those racy lithium batteries? According to Jason Levitt, Owner of Full Spectrum Power, in my Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths VS Realities article: Can you safely jump start a lithium battery? That depends on whether the battery has a BMS [Battery Monitoring System]. Don’t hook it up to a running vehicle. Instead, hook it to another battery. Race teams do this by using a booster battery system to start the bike, which allows them to use an extremely small battery on the bike for when the engine is running. When jump-starting a lithium battery, be sure to connect the booster battery in parallel [as described below]. Connecting them in series will make it 24 volts, and the BMS will trigger its protection. Also, in cold weather, you should follow the same startup process before you hit the button on the jump starter. Connect the booster battery for a few minutes to wake up the lithium battery on the motorcycle. Every motorcycle garage should have a set of jumper cables, just in case. So, the biggest problem with jumpstarting a motorcycle from a car battery will likely be having the right sized jumper cables. As bikes get packaged ever more tightly, there’s less room to fit those big honkin’ automotive battery clips into the confined space. You may want to invest in a set of motorcycle jumper cables. For maximum safety, you want to follow the directions for hooking up jumper cables below while making sure not to touch the connectors to each other and creating a spark. One of the byproducts of charging a lead-acid battery is explosive hydrogen gas. Now, with firm resolve, press ahead! If you’re unsure of where to connect the negative lead on the dead bike, look for a place on the engine where other cables are bolted down, like this starter motor. The proper steps for jumpstarting a motorcycle are: Make sure the ignitions of both vehicles are off. Connect the red lead to the good battery’s positive terminal. Connect the other red lead to the dead battery’s positive terminal. Connect the black lead to the good battery’s negative terminal. Connect the other black lead to a grounded, unpainted metal piece on the dead motorcycle’s engine or frame. There is no need to start the engine of the vehicle with the good battery. Start the motorcycle with the dead battery and let it run, while you carefully disconnect the cable connectors in the reverse order. Now, take your motorcycle for an hour-long ride. And you really should buy a battery charger. Battery Charger Buyer’s Guide We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews and other articles. Learn more about how this works. Direct your motorcycle-related questions to AskMoAnything@motorcycle.com, though some say we’re better at non-motorcycle-related ones… The post Ask MO Anything: Jumpstarting A Motorcycle From A Car appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

The thing I love most about the change of seasons is getting reacquainted with different pieces of riding gear. Case-in-point, the recent late spring weather made me pull out my vented gear, and I’ve discovered, again, how much I like the Alpinestars SP X Air Carbon V2 Gloves. How much is that? Well, I wear them with riding gear that doesn’t begin with the letter A, which the PR representatives of the other gear manufacturers will say is not an appropriate thing for a moto-journalist to do. Let’s take a look at what goes into a glove that I have gotten quite fond of, shall we? This shorty warm weather vented glove features a chassis constructed out of a combination of perforated leather and stretchable mesh, which accounts for both the comfortable fit and the cooling breeze it flows – enough, in fact, to get quite cool during the springtime temperature drop after dark. The precurved fingers have accordion panels for padding and ease of movement, while the externally seamed protective leather layers are perforated. Although the bulk of the inner fingers is constructed of leather, mesh fabric makes a cooling appearance in the crotches where the fingers meet the hand. As with all Alpinestars performance gloves, the pinky finger gets a leather support to keep it from being bent away from the rest of the fingers in a crash. Another nice addition is the touchscreen-compatible index fingertip on both gloves. The finger protection is formidable. Note how the pinky is attached to the ring finger. The main body of the glove consists of formidable carbon knuckle protection – with inner padding – on the back of the hand. A gusset on the back of the carbon armor allows it to lift as the glove grips the handlebar. In addition to providing a more comfortable fit, this gusset offers a place for perforations, allowing hot air to exhaust from the interior. The palms have a leather base layer with an additional layer covering from the heel of the hand around the outside and all the way up to where it meets with the pinky. In the center of that leather section, a hard palm slider prevents the leather from hooking up and initiating a tumble in a slide. At the top of the palm, a rubberized synthetic section provides grip to the grips. The same material wraps around the inner thumb where it wraps around the grip. (See what I did there?) Interestingly, the thumb’s fingernail area is only protected by the mesh fabric, where the big knuckle on your thumb gets leather and a sizable pad. The palms offer both improved grip on the bars and impact/slide protection. The protection varies on the wrist closure depending on the likelihood of a slide on that point. For example, the outer and back portions of the closure get perforated leather and breathable mesh – backed by padding. The underside, where the hook-and-loop fastener closes, has a base layer of a thick neoprene-like padded material. Overall, I like the choice of wrist material because its compactness allows the short gauntlet to easily fit under a variety of jackets, while leaving room for some cooling air to sneak in. As I enter my second summer with these gloves, my complaints are few. First, the name: SP X Air Carbon V2 Glove. That reads like a parts manifest, not a product name. Second, the mesh fabric on the top of both thumbs is getting fuzzy as the fabric is repeatedly assaulted by the hook-and-loop when the gloves are stuffed into my helmet. And then there is the hook-and-loop closure that has begun to curl up at its tip. This doesn’t threaten to keep it from holding the glove in place, but it has caught on the fabric liner of a couple of jackets. Annoying wear on the thumb back from the hook-and-loop closure. Given that Alpinestars is a premium gear manufacturer, you’d probably expect to pay a pretty penny for full-featured gloves like the SP X Air Carbon V2. Well, they check in at just a nickel below $100, which seems like a bargain, to me. The SP X Air Carbon V2 Glove is available in four colors: black, black/white (my choice), black/white/fluo red, and black/white/bright red. If you’re looking for a cool sporting glove for hot weather, the SP X Air Carbon V2 Glove deserves more than a second glance. The end of the hook-and-loop closure is starting to curl. Shop for the Alpinestars SP X Air Carbon V2 Glove here We are committed to finding, researching, and recommending the best products. We earn commissions from purchases you make using the retail links in our product reviews and other articles. Learn more about how this works. The post MO Tested: Alpinestars SP X Air Carbon V2 Glove Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

2020 Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport PROEditor Score: 84.0%Engine 16.0/20Suspension/Handling 13.5/15 Transmission/Clutch 9.0/10Brakes 9.0/10 Instruments/Controls4.0/5 Ergonomics/Comfort 8.5/10 Appearance/Quality 8.5/10Desirability 8.5/10Value 7.0/10Overall Score84/100 One man’s Scrambler is another man’s cafe racer. What? I don’t really know. Scrambler maybe means something different in Italy, where that nomenclature encompasses entry-level Ducs with off-roady aspirations as well as cafe raceresque ones. What they all have in common is a two-valve per cylinder version of Ducati’s classic air-cooled V-twin, ranging in size from 399 cc all the way up to the 1079 cc of this lovely new 1100 Sport PRO Ducati loaned us for a few days. I’m down. I’ve been a big fan of air-cooled Ducatis since before there were liquid-cooled Ducatis. This latest L-twin is now Euro 5-compliant and completely ride-by-wire, with impeccable fueling and a few ride modes – Active, Journey and City – all of them perfectly acceptable and their differences barely perceptible (City lowers engine output a bit). The six-speed gearbox is a thing of beauty so slick it doesn’t need a quickshifter, and there’s a nice, light hydraulic-activated slipper clutch to boot. With the powertrain dialled, then, the 1100 Sport PRO is kind of a rolling fiesta of Ducati style. 18- and 17-inch cast wheels with Pirelli MT60 tires do give a hint of Scramblerness. In fact, the 1100 Sport PRO here and slightly different 1100 PRO were both the subject of a big confab at the famed Art Center College of Design in Pasadena back in February, where students were invited to design the Ducati Scrambler of the future, with the most original proposal taking one of them to the Ducati Design Centre for a training internship – an event attended by world soccer icon and passionate motorcyclist, Alessandro Del Piero. It looks like a pretty intense crowd up there at the Art Center. Your basic 1100 PRO is distinguished by its: black steel trellis frame, rear aluminum subframe and aluminum side covers. A new right-side dual tailpipe and low-slung plate holder provide distinctive rear-end styling advertised to give the bike “a coiled, compact” look. “Another hallmark,” says Ducati, “is the round headlight; inspired by the protective adhesive tape used back in the 1970s, a black metal “X” has been incorporated inside the headlight. This is a detail that makes the bike instantly identifiable, even with the lights off.” DRLs around the perimeter show off the full LED lighting and turn signals everywhere else. In addition to that, our 1100 Sport PRO also gets a matte black color scheme, Öhlins suspension, and a low aluminum handlebar mounting café racer mirrors at either end. Swinging a leg over, Sir-Alan style, and blasting off down the lane is easy enough, since the stylish brown vinyl seat is claimed to be a mere 31.9 inches off the deck but feels lower. The handlebar feels lower too; it’s what Harley-Davidson would call flat, dragster-style. With the midmount footpegs, you’re crouched there waiting for the ref to blow the whistle to start wrestling somebody. For 5’8” me, that slight forward crouch isn’t at all bad and the faster you dial up the airflow, the more not-bad it gets. Not bad. Not bad at all. The seat’s pretty swell and seems like it would make passengers just as happy. The Öhlins suspension does nice work soaking up small chop, but bigger hits can still deliver sharp blows through the cantilevered rear shock. Both ends are said to give 5.9 inches of wheel travel. On smooth pavement, it all works very well right up until you ask yourself why they’d put Pirelli MT60 tires on this particular Scrambler, which with its low handlebar feels much more cafe racer? (The other Scrambler 1100 Pro has a higher handlebar.) Do I appear to be more scrambling or cafe racing? Come to think of it, we were on our way to a cafe. The MT60s will be nice enough to have on dirt roads, but on pavement they’re a tad vague-feeling, don’t encourage you to rush up and lick the edge of the performance envelope – and the powerful Brembo calipers and big discs up front have more power than the front tire can handle; luckily there’s good lean-sensitive ABS, because when you’re upright it’s not hard to lock the front wheel and feel ABS kick in. Kick off, actually. Off-road, you can’t turn the ABS off, so probably not a good idea to head down any steep hills. Really, this particular Scrambler reminds me of nothing so much as the Monster 1200S we rode last year, the biggest difference being that the Monster made 132 horsepower to the Scrambler’s 74, and way more torque too. Otherwise, size, ergonomics and even suspension travel are nearly the same between the two bikes. At 457 pounds gassed up, the Scrambler is about 16 lbs lighter than the Monster, probably mostly due to it not having a liquid cooling system – though it does have a pretty prominent oil radiator. Surprisingly, prices aren’t even that far apart, the Monster being only a couple G’s more than the $15,495 Scrambler. We’ve strayed away from our humble entry-level beginnings with this one. 74 horses aren’t that many, and it’s pretty much all over after 6500 revs. But the 64 foot-pounds of torque at just 5100 rpm is pretty meaty. (Dynographic stylings by D. Chung) (caption) 74 horses aren’t that many, but the 64 foot-pounds of torque at just 5100 rpm gives really nice meaty midrange. At the end of the day, this motorcycle’s kind of a mixed kettle of calamari. It’s a Scrambler whose only scramblery item is its tires, which are exactly the thing that hobble it as a cafe racer/ sportbike. But if we’re actually talking about just scrambling mostly around the urban maze and down the occasional dirt road on the way to Coachella, if performance is less important than the coolness of the overall package, then no one can deny this is a cool Ducati in the same idiom as the BMW R9T and Triumph’s classic collection; high fashion layered atop yesteryear’s mechanicals. You could make a sweet video of yourself adjusting your own desmo valves. Supposedly it’s not that hard on the two-valvers. The lack of cooling apparatus on the left side of the bike, though, and the full frontal cooling fins, almost makes up for the lack of horsepower: With only 74 of them, this 1079 cc twin can’t keep up with a 790 Duke on the straights. Or in the corners. It feels like kind of a Sportster Italiano. Harley’s been throwing different footpegs and handlebars on its Sportster for years to see what sticks; this Ducati 1100 Sport PRO lines up closest with the current Roadster version of the Sportster (which lists for $4000 less). Hmmm, have they ever made a Scrambler Sportster? If you really want to scramble, Triumph’s 1200 XE costs about the same money but has 9.8 inches of suspension at both ends and more power; the 1200 XC has a bit less travel but brings the seat back down. The aluminum sides come off the steel gas tank. You could do something artistic. As soon as I saw this Ducati, though, I instantly thought about a favorite bike of mine, the Indian FTR1200. I guess it’s the tires and the exhaust system. That bike’s also got knobby-looking (Dunlop) tires (19-/18-inch), a cantilevered rear shock, identical 5.9-in suspension travel front and rear – but it’s also got a 1203 cc V-twin that made 113 horses on our dyno, a much lower price tag for the base model, and ahem, cruise control. The FTR makes this Ducati look positively stone age. There’s a lot of information in not a lot of space. An optional Bluetooth module will let you enable Ducati Multimedia in the oval window. But then, the FTR’s also got a plastic gas tank and it’s not Italian, which may be more important considerations for attracting Art Center College of Design buyers. And if part of the brief is to simplify, then yes, air-cooling and two-valve heads are better than four. I always loved the midrange intensity of the two-valvers, but now that it’s 2020, even this 1079 cc unit is beginning to wheeze a bit at altitude. Hurling one more spitball from the cheap seats, $15k just seems like a lot for a bike not terribly removed from the Monster Ducati began hawking in what, 1993? Heated grips are optional, but there is a USB under the seat so your Insta feed need never be interrupted. We like this Ducati, we don’t love it. 2020 Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport PRO + Highs As undefinable as you are Air-cooled modern retro style Sweet, cush ride over all but big bumps in the road – Sighs Not sure why it has the low handlebar? Alternatively, not sure why it has the ADV tires? Maybe a little too retro, for $15.5k In Gear Helmet: Arai Regent X Bend Blue$690 Jacket: Vanson AR3 $563 Pants: Trilobite Parado Elastic Men’s Jeans $219 Gloves: Dainese Quanto 4-Stroke Evo $220 Boots: Sidi Arcadia Tex $179 2020 Ducati 1100 Sport PRO Specifications MSRP $15,495 Engine Type 1079 cc air-cooled 90-degree V-twin, SOHC, 2 valves/cylinder, desmodromic actuation Bore and Stroke 98mm x 71mm Compression Ratio 11:1 Rear Wheel Horsepower 74.3 hp @ 6800 rpm Torque 63.7 lb-ft @ 5100 rpm Transmission 6-speed Final Drive Chain Front Suspension 48mm Öhlins inverted fork with spring preload, rebound and compression damping adjustability; 5.9-in. travel Rear Suspension Öhlins monoshock, spring preload, rebound damping adjustability; 5.9-in travel Front Brake Dual 320mm discs, Brembo Monobloc M4.32 4-piston calipers, Bosch Cornering ABS Rear Brake 245 mm disc, 1-piston floating caliper, Bosch Cornering ABS Front Tire Pirelli MT60RS 120/80-ZR18 Rear Tire Pirelli MT60RS 180/55-ZR17 Rake/Trail 24.5 deg/4.4 in (111mm) Wheelbase 59.6 in (1514mm) Seat Height 31.9 in (810mm) Wet weight (MO scales) 457 lbs Fuel Capacity 3.96 US gal Observed fuel economy 41 mpg Colors Black Warranty 24 months, transferable, unlimited-mileage The post 2020 Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport PRO Review appeared first on Motorcycle.com. 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It’s been said dozens of times, many different ways. The definition of adventure is unique to the person defining it. Like fingerprints, no two answers will be identical. Case in point: the KTM Adventure 790 R, BMW F 850 GS Adventure, and Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro. These bikes make up three-quarters of the burgeoning middleweight adventure category. These motorcycles comprise a niche within a popular category, yet within a few miles of riding each bike, it’s remarkable just how differently each brand approaches the task. The core philosophy of each marque shines through in these machines and plainly portrays how its part of the world, and the people riding there, define adventure. Get the Flash Player to see this player. This aspect alone actually makes the comparison more enjoyable. You don’t have to split hairs. There won’t be a winner and a loser, simply different bikes for different riders. There are pretty well-defined lines for each motorcycle and the customers they were built for. Even the Tenere 700, which is absent from this test because… Yamaha, is geared toward a fourth type of customer who may have different requirements than the other three. When we asked each manufacturer for its “Adventure” or “R” model, I didn’t anticipate that that request would so clearly highlight the defining characteristics of what adventure meant to each bike’s respective makers. BMW F 850 GS Adventure BMW has long had a stranglehold on the large displacement adventure bike category with bikes like the venerable R 80/100/1100/1200/1250 GS’s. Heck, some would argue BMW started the whole thing. And although the big Boxers generate more sales for the company, BMW (and KTM, for that matter) has been a player in the middleweight adventure game since the 1990s. BMW’s first Single cylinder 650 “Funduro” made it stateside in 1997, the same year KTM introduced its 640 Adventure model. Fun fact: The first BMW F650 was designed by BMW and Aprilia jointly. Aprilia manufactured the bike in Italy with an Austrian Rotax 652cc Single engine. Remember when we could all just get along? 2019 BMW F 850 GS And F 750 GS Review – First Ride BMW’s middleweight adventure bike line was originally made up of the Single 650s mentioned above before the 700 and 800, now 750 and 850, Twins eventually graced dealership floors. This latest iteration of F 850 GS is powered by an 853cc parallel Twin engine that, according to our official MO dyno, cranks out 80.5 hp at 9,660 rpm and 50.6 lb-ft of torque at 7,430 rpm. The motor makes smooth power all the way up to the rev limiter. Smooth, that’s a good descriptor for the F 850 GS Adventure. Despite the 21/17-inch wheel combo, the BMW handles nicely on road. Also of note, “off-road tires” are a no cost option for the F 850 GSA. For $1,100 more, the Adventure model gets increased fuel capacity from 4.0 to 6.1 gallons, an extra inch of travel in the front fork, a two-way adjustable windscreen that, in conjunction with the absolutely bulbous front end, provides the most wind protection out of our trio, three seat options (rally, double, or low), engine crash bars, and a rear luggage mount. As for ride modes, cruise control, ESA, and other acronyms and niceties, those are still all upgraded through the same Essential ($550), Select ($1,550), and Premium ($2,250) packages available to the standard F 850 GS. In order, to get the F 850 GS Adventure close to the same level with all of the features found on the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro, one would have to opt for the Premium package which, in addition to things like ride modes Pro, cruise control, quickshifter, TPMS, and heated grips, BMW gives the option of low suspension or its Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment) – which applies only to the shock, the 43mm fork remains non-adjustable. So, to really compare apples to apples, the F 850 GSA would be ringing up for $17,540 to bring it on par with the Tiger 900 Rally Pro in terms of features. Although the Tiger 900 uses the same technology, BMW first introduced a TFT screen mated to the outer glass which provides a very vivid display in any condition. Alas, I think we had the (mis?)fortune to test one of the few nearly base models that BMW decided to import into the US. I’ve been told at many a BMW press introduction that BMW NA generally doesn’t plan to bring many base model GS’s stateside because their customers usually want features included in one of the three packages offered. Hey, we all have to make money somehow. Not a lot of off-road protection going on on the underside of the F 850 GS Adventure. But what’s it like to ride back to back with the other two middleweights in this comparo? Let’s bring it back to the word smooth. On the freeway, at 80-plus, the F 850 GS Adventure rides like a ’60s Cadillac, complete with that boat-like floaty feel as the plush suspension eats up road imperfections before they ever make their way through the cush seat to your backside. With a 5’8” rider, the BMW’s rider triangle is nearly perfect while pounding out the miles, if only for the footpegs to seem slightly high after jumping off of the KTM or Triumph. The monstrous front end – which is almost entirely made up of plastic without much fuel tank or anything else essential behind it – coupled with the adjustable windscreen, does a fantastic job of punching a train-sized hole in space giving the rider the most wind/weather protection of the three bikes tested. Guest tester and former MOron, Tommy “Guns” Roderick concurred, “The BMW is comfy with the best wind protection of the three. Part of this stems from the bike’s ultra-wide styling. Sharing a family resemblance with its larger sibling the R1200GS Adventure is one thing, but the girth of this middleweight motorcycle is enough to make a GoldWing blush.” And then we took it off-road… It’ll fly, especially with Eric Bostrom on it back. It’s the landing you need to worry about. I’ll let Tom reveal the 552 lb elephant in the room: “The GS is the heaviest of the group by a lot, and you can feel every pound of extra weight when the riding gets dirty. Even when adjusting for the extra gallon of fuel it carries, the BMW is 85 pounds heavier than the KTM. On the bright side, it carries its weight well, or as well as it can considering its too-soft suspension, so that helps.” Tom’s spot on. The BMW’s weak point is its suspension. Like I mentioned previously, we tested a mostly stock 850 GSA which has a 43mm non-adjustable fork and a standard shock adjustable for preload via a remote handwheel and rebound. Although the Adventure model gains an additional inch of travel from the fork, it blows through the stroke so quickly it hardly matters. Unfortunately, this wasn’t only a problem when our ace-in-the-hole guest tester, AMA Supersport and dirt track champ, Eric Bostrom was ripping the 850 off-road. The Beemer suffered the same issues when trying to unwind a tight set of curves on the asphalt too. After one of Eric Bostrom’s final jumps on BMW he joked, “they probably felt the shockwave in Ridgecrest”. When Eric pulled in from his final photo pass on the BMW after flogging the Triumph and KTM for the camera, the first thing out of his mouth was, “This thing is actually hazardous to your health.” To be fair, Eric later admitted he may have been a bit harsh on the F 850, but he’s not totally out of line. If you plan to do serious off-roading on your middleweight adventure bike, the BMW F 850 GS Adventure simply isn’t the bike to do it with. If your plan is to pound out the miles on pavement and graded fire roads, and you’re okay keeping the pace slow and steady once the going gets tricky, the 850 GSA will fit the bill just fine. Plus, you’ll be able to go some 270 miles between fill ups. “Besides Eric Bostrom riding the hell outta this thing in the dirt, I fail to see how this motorcycle really qualifies as an adventure bike. Sure, it has a 6.1-gallon fuel tank for making it further down the road compared to the other two in this shootout, but its suspension is too soft for any type of riding outside of smooth freeway cruising. Rubbing salt in the wound is the non-adjustable attribute of the fork.” –Thomas J. Roderick KTM 790 Adventure R KTM changed the middleweight adventure game in early 2019 with the release of the 790 Adventure R, and the entire adventure segment felt the shockwave. The Austrian brand is, of course, not new to getting it done in the dirt. KTM has been bringing home the gold since 1956 in off-road competition. The orange marque now has more than 260 world championships to its name including 18 consecutive Dakar rally wins and four of the last five AMA Supercross titles (2018 went to Husqvarna so…). That alone should give some substance to the company’s “Ready to Race” slogan, and that DNA is interwoven in KTM’s production line up as well. 2019 KTM 790 Adventure R First Ride Review Ya know, being Ready to Race isn’t everything in the adventure touring world. Despite Wes Van Nieuwenhuise finishing fourth in the 2020 Sonora Rally on a 790 Adventure R, it also needs to be able to tour, right? Well, I guess that depends how you define adventure. This KTM is basically the anti-BMW. Where the F 850 GSA is pleasant and cush and capable of crushing long days in the saddle, the 790 ADV R begs you to explore off-piste every chance you get, from fire roads to single track, the rougher the going gets, the better the KTM performs. The KTM and Triumph produced almost identical numbers on the dyno with the BMW not too far behind. The vastly different weight between the three bikes is what made the most difference out on the road. For $1,000 over the standard 790 Adventure, the R model lands you WP’s fully-adjustable 48mm XPLOR fork and PDS shock, both of which offer 9.4 inches of travel (1.5 inches over the standard model), a smaller windscreen and higher fender, Michelin Karoo 3 tires, and the all important Rally riding mode. The R model without the quickshifter+ (a $300 option) that we had fitted on our test bike rings up as the cheapest of the bunch at $13,699. Michelin Karoo 3s as standard hint at the KTM’s intentions. As if KTM’s off-road pedigree wasn’t enough to give the 790 R a leg up on the competition between the three, the Michelin Karoo 3s definitely lend an advantage off-road. As was the plan for this sort of preliminary three outta four comparison, we wanted the Adventure/R/Rally Pro models sent to us just as a customer would purchase them off of the showroom floor. It is worth noting that while BMW offers the zero-cost option of off-road tires (something similar to the Karoo 3) being fitted from the manufacturer, we received the F 850 GSA with its street-bias Michelin Anakee 3s. The Triumph Tiger comes off the showroom floor shod with Bridgestone Battlax Adventure A41, also clearly a street-biased tire. Once we have the Yamaha Tenere 700 in our clutches, the plan will be to fit the same tires across all four models to get a better idea of their dirt performance on equal footing. KTM’s choice of a 21/18-inch wheel combo also adds to its off-road prowess. That being said, the tires weren’t what made the biggest difference off-road. The WP XPLOR suspension, which was previously found on KTM’s EXC-F models, has excellent bottoming resistance and, in its stock compression and rebound settings, is a great middle of the road set up for canyon carving and riding off-road, whether we’re talking miles of sand or rocky trails. The KTM had all of us smitten. Tom gushed about the motor while Eric and I lauded the excellent suspension and chassis. In my opinion, the KTM 790 Adventure R’s real advantage is just how well the sum of its parts work together. The compact LC8c 799cc parallel Twin engine, svelte chromoly trellis frame, WP XPLOR suspension, and low-slung fuel tank make the 790 Adventure R feel even lighter than the 467 lbs we saw on the official MO scales. With its weight kept so low, the 790 R feels nearly effortless when tiptoeing around technical sections of trail, and manages to keep its composure as the speeds ramp up while bombing down the odd fire road. The KTM’s skid plate and low slung tank provide substantial coverage for the underside of the engine and exhaust. Here’s what T-Rod had to say, “KTM has transformed itself into a street bike powerhouse, but at its core, the company remains a dirtbike manufacturer. So, it’s no surprise that, when it comes to producing a middleweight adventure bike with a true off-road riding pedigree, the 790 Adventure R gets it done better in the dirt by a large margin over the other two adventurers here. It’s combination of light weight, well-balanced adjustable suspension, and one of the best parallel-twin engines I’ve ever had the pleasure riding make the KTM formidable off the road or on.” It’s a funny thing to think that the 790 Adventure R’s display looks the most dated of the three. Ha! There are a fair amount of electronics available on all three of these bikes, but, in my opinion, the 790 Adventure R gets the nod for having the most functional due its Rally mode set up. When in Rally mode, the 790 Adventure R allows you to choose between three throttle maps, depending on how responsive you’d like the throttle. The rider is also able to flip between nine levels of traction control on the fly with the left switchgear. On the Tiger, the traction control setting is tied to each ride mode and cannot be adjusted further. The BMW keeps traction control separate from the ride modes as well and is either off or on. The KTM and the BMW allow traction control adjustment on the fly. ABS is set independently from the ride modes. The 790’s Road mode is the ABS setting the motorcycle reverts to every time it’s switched on via the key or kill switch and includes cornering ABS. Offroad ABS allows the rear wheel to lock up and disables cornering ABS. With a long push and hold of the button, Off is off. All of the bikes are capable of disabling ABS entirely while stopped. “The faster I rode the KTM in the dirt, the more it asked to be pushed harder” –Eric Bostrom Keeping with the anti-850 theme here, the KTM feels more competent the faster you go. Where the BMW starts to make one nervous as the pace ramps up or the trail narrows, the KTM keeps asking for more with a chassis that has the capability to perform. Of course, the dirtbike style ergos, long flat(ish) seat, and small non-adjustable windscreen don’t do the 790 Adventure R any favors when it comes to long hauls on the freeway. Cruise control is available as an option on both the KTM and the BMW, but the Tiger 900 comes with it standard. The KTM Powerparts catalog says $85 for the new control module that includes the cruise control switch, you’ll then need a dealer to plug in the bike to activate it. “Where the KTM will suffer some deficiencies is during long-haul street rides where the slimmer seat and lack of wind protection will cause more discomfort than the other two bikes. But if my main purpose in life is riding as little pavement as possible because the real adventure begins where the pavement ends, then the KTM is the obvious choice.” –T. Roderick During our Zoom chat, Tom also put it thusly, “If my goal is to ride 200 miles of pavement for 50 miles of dirt, the KTM’s not the choice, but for 50 miles on the street and 200 miles off-road, the KTM’s better set up for it.” Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro “This adventure bike is juuuust right,” Goldilocks, 1837. For those looking for an option between the KTM and BMW, look no further than Triumph’s newest adventure model, the Tiger 900 Rally Pro. The Rally Pro sits atop Triumph’s five Tiger 900 trims as the most adventurous of the bunch. With significant updates to the chassis and engine, the new Tiger 900 is by far the most potent Tiger yet, and in this company, it’s hard to beat as the best all around. 2020 Triumph Tiger 900 GT Pro & Rally Pro Review – First Ride The Tiger 900 Rally Pro differs from the other Tiger trims with its 21/17-inch (tubeless) wheel combo, 45mm Showa fork and shock providing 9.5 inch and 9 inches of travel, respectively, Off-road Pro riding mode, fog lights, and engine protection. The Rally Pro is also fitted with all sorts of touring niceties that are also found on the GT Pro model. The Tiger’s new 888cc Triple is a ripper. Plenty of torque low in the rev-range makes it a lot of fun off-road. The Tiger 900’s new Triple engine is now lighter and more compact which, combined with the new T-plane crank, gives the motor a more lively and exciting power output. The 888cc Triple actually pumps out nearly identical performance figures as the KTM with 84 hp peaking at 8,900 rpm and 57 lb-ft of torque at 6,300. The Tiger 900 has the smoothest dyno chart of the three with its broad torque curve reaching 50 lb-ft before 3,000 rpm. The Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro is loaded with features that make it one of, if not the best, all-around options on the market. At $16,700, the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro is the most expensive model (as tested) here, but it also offers touring accoutrement in spades over the others. Heated grips, heated seats (happy passenger, happy life), cruise control, an adjustable windscreen, a brilliant 7-inch TFT display that’s easily navigated with a joystick on the left switchgear, Bluetooth connectivity for communication devices, phones, and GoPros, and a USB outlet under the seat. Given Eric’s roots in flat track racing, the lack of knobby tires didn’t deter him too much from sliding the Tiger through a few corners. The Tiger 900’s quickshifter (up and down) was much smoother than the KTM’s, even between first and second gear, and our BMW wasn’t fitted with one. I thoroughly enjoy blasting down fire roads at speed using the quickshifter. Bang a couple downshifts and pitch the bike into the corner as the slipper clutch tries to match the rear wheel speed to the engine, and a big smile comes over your face every time you get things right. Of course, when things don’t pan out exactly how you hoped, the Tiger 900’s stability feels almost like a safety net. It’s only when the going gets technical or really fast that you’re reminded of the bike’s 503-pound wet weight. Brembo Stylema calipers and steel-braided line provide excellent stopping for the Tiger 900 without being too touchy in the dirt. Triumph gave the Tiger 900 top-of-the-line stopping components to get you slowed down confidently off-road and on. Brembo Stylema calipers, steel-braided brake lines, and a J.Juan master cylinder provide excellent stopping power and feel. Both the Triumph and the KTM come with cornering ABS while it’s optional for the BMW. Due to our KTM’s front brake feeling inconsistent, like there was air in the lines, we didn’t get a great back to back test during our shoot. That being said, I’ve ridden each of these motorcycles separately, and while stopping power is better than adequate on all three, the Tiger 900’s binders are on an entirely different level. The 7-inch TFT dash gives a ton of information in a visually pleasing display. While all three models, when equipped, provide Bluetooth phone connectivity, the Tiger goes further by letting riders interact with connected GoPros via the left hand joystick and display. Back to that big ol’ TFT screen. BMW was the first company we saw using a TFT dash mated to the exterior glass which provides a vivid display no matter the lighting conditions. The Triumph’s display is visually stunning and can be tweaked between four different styles. The screen is easily navigated and, in my opinion, is the most intuitive of all three machines tested. All three bikes have auto-contrasting features built into their TFT displays to adjust with ambient lighting. On the street, the Triumph is pretty handily the best touring machine in terms of rider comfort and features. The slight letdown comes from the Rally Pro’s wide and just a tad too far forward handlebar. While standing off-road, the handlebar position is great, but while seated, the stretch to the bars had even our tallest tester, T-Rod, canted forward, “The Triumph’s seating position does leave a bit to be desired. The handlebars seem positioned a little further away than necessary forcing the rider to lean forward rather than sitting upright.” The handlebar position can actually be adjusted further forward, if one sees fit. After inspecting the Tiger 900 Rally Pro’s skidplate in my driveway and noticing the amount of flex it gave, it was clear the only thing it will be protecting the bike from would be small rocks kicked up by the front wheel. Off-road, the Tiger 900 Rally Pro handles itself quite well. Again, it was only once the speeds ramped up that the big cat started to show any weaknesses. The fork, while offering ample travel and good feedback, seems overly harsh in the initial stroke. After you get through the slow initial damping, the action speeds up. We didn’t have much time to play with the settings, but with the ability to adjust preload, rebound and compression, I’m pretty confident you could get the damping a little more dialed in fairly easily. The shock suffers the same qualms, albeit not as noticeable. Eric had this to say, “When you get into a little bit more technical riding or some large g-outs, you’re going to run out of suspension on the thing. It ends up feeling a little soft for doing aggressive dirt riding.” The Tiger has six ride modes: Rain, Road, Sport, Off-road, Off-road Pro, and Rider (customizable). What’s slightly annoying about the ride mode set up is that you can only select between the first three mentioned while moving. Even though Off-road mode doesn’t entirely disable ABS, you still have to be stopped to switch into Rider, Off-road, and Off-road Pro. The latter of which makes more sense because it disables TC and ABS entirely. Given that annoyance, one nice feature is the large warning/reminder that is shown when you start the bike saying that it will revert back to Road mode. It also gives the option of a single click to bring the bike back into the mode it was in when the bike was shut off. The new lightweight engine in the Tiger 900 doesn’t have a lot of reciprocating mass, so be ready to feather the clutch off-road. While riding the Tiger off-road, I managed to stall the bike more than either of the other two machines. Shaving all of that weight off of the engine internals makes for a great free-spinning engine feel on road, but without much flywheel weight, you’ll need to be ready to feather the clutch sliding in and out of corners. Tell us how you feel, Tom: “As outfitted the Triumph’s tires are street biased for sure. Mount some more dirt-aggressive rubber and the Triumph will hold its own against the KTM. The Tiger carries 36 more pounds compared to the KTM’s 467 wet weight figure, but it’s my opinion that if you’re looking for the most all-around capable motorcycle of this group the Triumph does the best job of offering the same level of street and dirt abilities.” The Tiger is also heaps of fun through canyon roads. “The Tiger is a really nice intermediate package. The Triumph was really impressive. It was dirt-able while being really nice on the street. I think it’s a great bike for adventurous street rides, some mixed terrain, and you can go down fire roads on that thing all day.” –Eboz Surprise Or not. I don’t think the outcome of this comparison was really a surprise to anyone involved. It’s pretty clear what these three motorcycles offer adventure riders. As said before, each machine is unique to a certain kind of motorcyclist. Each manufacturer represented here has a history of building fantastic machines that motorcyclists around the world enjoy riding. BMW’s touring capabilities are world renowned and legendary. Triumph’s aggressive push these past few years to provide excellent motorcycles with absolutely top notch fit and finish with the latest and greatest technology and components has been a trend we’re happy to see continued with the Tiger 900. KTM’s no-apologies take on providing the ultimate dirt-worthy middleweight adventure bike that’s as Ready to Race as nearly anything else in its lineup redefined the capabilities of modern adventure bikes. Make Life a Ride | Ready to Race | For The Ride And then there’s Yamaha. Stringing the world along for years with the Tenere 700. Fortunately, I did have the chance to ride the Tenere 700 at the global introduction in Spain a year ago. I can say it is yet another option that ticks entirely different boxes for adventure seekers. I can’t wait to get the Yamaha and this band back together, on equal footing and head out on a real adventure, post COVID restrictions, of course. Keep your eyes set on the horizon. We’ll be back with the next adventure soon enough. Middleweight Adventure Shootout ScoreCard BMW F850GS Adventure KTM 790 Adventure R Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro Price 89.6% 100% 82.0% Weight 84.6% 100% 92.8% lb/hp 81.2% 100% 93.3% lb/lb-ft 75.2% 100% 93.2% Total Objective Scores 84.1% 100% 89.4% Engine 87.9% 93.8% 91.7% Transmission/Clutch 86.7% 81.7% 90.0% Handling 75.0% 90.8% 85.0% Brakes 76.7% 79.2% 84.2% Suspension 50.0% 90.8% 78.3% Technologies 78.3% 85.0% 95.0% Instruments 88.3% 86.7% 95.0% Ergonomics/Comfort 84.2% 82.5% 82.5% Quality, Fit & Finish 90.0% 89.2% 90.0% Cool Factor 76.7% 88.3% 88.3% Grin Factor 70.0% 93.3% 90.0% Ryan’s Subjective Scores 79.2% 89.2% 89.8% Tom’s Subjective Scores 79.6% 85.0% 88.5% Eric’s Subjective Scores 79.2% 89.6% 87.1% Overall Score 80.3% 90.3% 88.7% Specifications BMW F850GS Adventure KTM 790 Adventure R Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro MSRP $14,445 ($15,290 with Rally color option) $13,699 $16,700 Engine Type Fuel-injected, liquid cooled, four-stroke Parallel-Twin engine, four valves per cylinder, double overhead camshafts, dry sump lubrication Fuel-injected, liquid-cooled, four-stroke Parallel-Twin, four valves per cylinder, double overhead camshafts, forced oil lubrication with two oil pumps Fuel-injected, liquid-cooled, 12-valve, DOHC, inline 3-cylinder Bore x Stroke 84 mm x 77 mm 88.0 mm x 65.7 mm 78.0 mm x 61.9 mm Capacity 853cc 799cc 888cc Horsepower 80.5 hp at 9660 rpm (measured) 84 hp at 8320 rpm (measured) 84 hp at 8940 rpm (measured) Torque 50.6 lb-ft. at 7430 rpm (measured) 57.3 lb-ft. at 6720 rpm (measured) 57 lb-ft. at 6300 rpm (measured) Compression Ratio 12.7 : 1 12.7:1 11.3:1 Transmission Constant-mesh 6-speed gearbox with straight cut gears 6-speed 6 speed Final Drive Chain Chain O-ring chain Frame Tubular steel space frame , load bearing engine Chromium-Molybdenum-Steel frame using the engine as stressed element, powder coated Tubular steel frame, bolt-on subframe, double-sided, cast aluminum alloy swingarm Front Suspension 43mm upside-down telescopic fork, 9.1 inches of travel WP XPLOR 48mm fork, fully adjustable, 9.4 in. travel Showa 45 mm upside down forks, manual preload, rebound damping and compression damping adjustment, 9.45 inches travel Rear Suspension Cast aluminum 2-sided swing arm, WAD strut (travel related damping), spring pre-load hydraulically adjustable (continuously variable) at handwheel, rebound damping adjustable, 8.5 inches of travel WP XPLOR PDS shock, fully adjustable, 9.4 in. travel Showa rear suspension unit, manual preload and rebound damping adjustment, 9.06 inches wheel travel Front Brake Dual floating disc brakes, two-piston floating calipers, diameter 305 mm, ABS Dual 320 mm discs, radial-mount 4-piston J Juan calipers, ABS Twin 12.6-inch floating discs, Brembo Stylema 4-piston monobloc calipers. Radial front master cylinder, Optimized Cornering ABS Rear Brake Single disc brake, diameter 265 mm, single-piston floating caliper, ABS Single 260 mm disc, two-piston J Juan caliper, ABS Single 10-inch disc. Brembo single-piston sliding caliper. Optimized cornering ABS Wheelbase 62.7 inches 59.4 inches (60.2 inches) 61.1 inches Rake/Trail 28°/4.9 inches 25.9°/4.2 inches 24.4/5.7 inches Front Tire 90/90-21 54V 90/90-21 Michelin Karoo 3 100/90-19 90/90-21 Rear Tire 150/70-17 69V 150/70-18 Michelin Karoo 3 150/70R17 150/70R17 Seat Height 34.4 inches (Standard Seat) 34.6 inches 33.5-34.3 inches Wet Weight 552 lbs (measured) 467 pounds (measured) 503 pounds (measured) Fuel Capacity 6.1 gallons (Approx. 0.9 gal reserve) 5.3 gallons 5.3 gallons The post The Middleweight Adventure Triad appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source

We’ve all experienced the exciting period of a new motorcycle relationship where all we want to do is ride together. Unfortunately, Tom Dean has found his new Italian love affair during a pandemic lockdown. Still, it sounds as if the two of them are making the best of the time. An almost Peter Egan Zen-like quality comes over me as I take the key out of my Aprilia Shiver 750 one last time. It’s about 45 degrees here this evening in the hinterlands of Cincinnati, Ohio, and Shiver is an apt name for this new-to-me bike. I lock it up in the garage not knowing when I shall next take my wild pride of Italy out again for another ride. My esteemed Governor, Mike DeWine, has declared a lockdown in Ohio to last for at least two weeks. I shall miss my Shivering rides in the early Ohio spring. Dean’s new love, all polished up and ready to ride. So, what makes this bike so good? Well, hello, it’s Italian! And it’s red. And it’s got a trellis frame. The Holy Triumvirate of motorcycling no? That it’s a sporting V-Twin with a bold exhaust note is the icing on the cake. Did I mention the bike is red? I came to own the bike through somewhat unconventional means. Having sold my previous ride, a Moto Guzzi Griso 1100, in early spring I was fast on the lookout for another bike. My mind was open to different bikes, but I have a predilection for Italian machinery. Firing up the computer and hitting Facebook Marketplace, I felt I’d hit the motherlode in terms of available bikes. The problem was the whole lode was usually located 500 miles away. All the bikes I liked were either in Illinois, Kentucky, or Pennsylvania. What’s a rider to do when you’ve got a wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket and spring is coming fast? After about my 5000th search on Facebook Marketplace for a bike close by, I decided to turn to an old standby: Craigslist. I can hear the clamor now, “Oh yeah, Craigslist the fine purveyor of many a high dollar scammer the world wide over.” Maybe. But wade past the scammers, and many times, a fine bike can be had. Such was the case with my new Shiver. Dean with his previous Italian motorcycle, a Moto Guzzi Griso 1100. Looking in a town about 40 miles away, I found a Craigslist ad for a super clean 2012 Aprilia 750 with low miles. Making a quick email connection with the owner of the Shiver, I found out his name was Chris, and he, too, was a dedicated Italiophile. Chris was looking to sell a couple of bikes in order to buy a new Panigale V2. So far so good. I made an appointment to meet Chris and take a look at the bike. The following Saturday came, and I took a short ride up to Chris’s place to inspect the bike. As soon as I pulled in to Chris’s driveway and saw the Shiver, I knew I was a goner. Visions of money flying out of my pocket began to immediately dance through my head. The Shiver absolutely gleamed! It was basically a new bike and every piece of it shined. The bike had a mere 2700 miles on it and looked like it just came from the showroom. I did a short test ride on the bike, and everything worked perfectly. I was really surprised by the exhaust note, which had a strong V Twin basso profundo sound for still being a stock system. Hmm, Chris how much did you want for the bike again? Little quibbling ensued, and both of us settled on a satisfactory price. Chris made the transaction easy for me, as he knew of a local bank to notarize the title, and he even agreed to follow me back to my house and deliver the bike for me. Folks like Chris are truly salt of the earth motorcycling people. So far my Shiver ownership has been a happy one. I’ve washed it a couple of times and oiled the chain. It needs only very little, and I’m really a lucky owner. As the Corona thing passes I look forward to fielding questions on “hey what’s that thing” once the local bike nights roll around. The Coronavirus will eventually flatten out, and I count the days till I can take that first long warm ride. Keep the home fires burning everybody. Summer is on the way! The post Readers’ Rides: 2012 Aprilia Shiver 750, The Next Italian Love Affair appeared first on Motorcycle.com. Source